Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I'm having my mechanic look at it tomorrow AM. I'm wondering if it could be a problem with the key itself, or if some security sensor in the ignition went haywire. Hopefully a computer diagnostic will uncover the problem.
Any input? I'll try to post the mechanic's results when I get them, and hopefully the solution to the problem.
had no obvious problems--- been changing oil every
3k miles and just changed it 2weeks ago and at the
same time fluids were checked etc.My problem is
a couple of days ago it started running real rough
killed then wouldn't start --- after changing plugs and getting it started ran for about 20 mins. then stopped ; tryed to restart and wouldn't start --- found out today that I have a cracked intake manifold -- no warning warning lights had come on ; did not appear to overheat prior to it stopping.... has anyone else had
similar problems with the intake manifolds on the 3800 v6 with this low milage?
All and all it has proved to be a reliable, fun and powerful car. A bit pricey, perhaps, but the fat insurance check for a wreck helped w/ the down payment.
If you are just lurking, give it a test drive. Its a sweet ride.
Hopefully, this may save someone some work or prevent them from being stranded if the nipple breaks off.
Step 1 - Replaced solenoids in tranny
Step 2 - Trouble shoot (so called) electrical problem
Step 3 - Replaced Computer
Step 4 - Replaced Alternator (This time I was smart and bought an alternator with life-time warranty.)
Step 5 - Replaced Tranny (this is where we are now.)
Step 6 - Ordered new tranny
Step 7 - Go visit bankrupt court if the tranny will make it there.
Does anyone have a clue as to what is going on with the tranny?
1. When driving slowly (<10mph) over broken/uneven pavement, the front suspension is very noisy/clunky sounding when hitting the bumps. Is there a simple fix or is it a major deal? The struts have been replaced recently if it means anything.
2. Last summer, I encountered a situation on the highway. When cruising along, I came to a hill, doing around 70, and I stepped on the gas to gain speed. The engine started to "miss", I put my foot to the floor and the car was losing speed, with RPM's jumping between 1000 and 2000rpm. I could maintain speed by not forcing the trans. to downshift. After exiting the highway and coming to a stop the car just died. Fortunately it started again after 10 seconds. This never happened again but it worries me. I had some kind of electronic control thing located near the battery replaced later, but for a different problem-the car would just shut off calmly after 10 minutes of driving, which was confusing this device into thinking the car was overheating.
3. My car has the common problem of the trans. dropping out of OD around 45mph-what's the fix for this?
4. Illuminated entry stopped working last week-I pull the handle and no lights go on. How
can this be fixed?
5. On hot days while coming to a stop from a high speed the brakes clatter and the pedal vibrates in the 30-60mph range. Does this mean warped rotors or something else?
Thanks in advance for any help. I'm not a mechanic so please excuse the descriptions if they aren't technically accurate.
-JG
As for the timing CHAIN, my '96 3800 has 60K on it now and will get a new chain and sprockets at 100K. It'll probably hang in a lot longer without a failure, but they stretch over time causing retarded valve timing, reducing power and fuel economy.
In the site for Caravans, there is a nasty debate going on over which is the better van, Grand Caravan or Honda Odyssey. One of the points was that according to a magazine article, using regular 87 octane in the Honda, which normally requires premium, adds a full second to the 1-60 time.
In a nutshell, I am running about three times the factory boost, my induction is completely opened up (cold air induction, Stage 2 MAF, S-ported supercharger, ported lower intake, ported and polished heads with oversized exhaust valves), and my exhaust is completely free-flowing as well (headers, 3.0"/2.5" mandrel-bent custom setup).
After my last round of mods, I began having two problems, which I believe may be related, and I am in need of some expert advice.
The first problem is that I literally have no ignition timing advance at WOT. With 93 octane, I will typically see about 7 degrees of advance, with 5 degrees of Knock Retard. This equates to only 2 degrees of total advance, which is robbing me of around 50 to 80 horsepower if my math is good. By the way, my air/fuel ratio is pretty close according to the front oxygen sensor. I start to go a little lean near the end of second gear, and I plan to resolve that issue with a Fuel Management Unit.
The second problem is that near the end of second gear, and all throughout third gear - only under WOT, the PCM is shutting my boost off (instantly switches from 13psi to 5psi) and cutting my injector pulsewidths (from 20 milliseconds to around 14). When this happens, I can continue accelerating at a slower rate, or I can let off the gas, and floor it again, and it's OK for a few more seconds. It will run right up to the speed limiter at 126 mph at half throttle. At full throttle, I have this 'bog' problem.
I have read that the Boost Bypass Valve redirects boost under four conditions - Park, Reverse, idle, and extreme engine load. Do you know the PCM's definition of 'extreme engine load'?
My best guess right now is that I have increased my combustion chamber pressure too much for the octane I am running. I found some 108 octane unleaded (VP Racing Fuel - red), and plan to see if that resolves my issues.
If the higher octane solves the problems, I guess I'll have to reduce my boost, add an intercooler, or consider water or alcohol injection.
Are there any other major factors I should be considering as I work through my issues?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Scott
p.s. - and just how can I get rid of that speed limiter????
Sorry to hear you're still having problems. The symptoms you're describing now sound like an intermittent signal problem with the vehicle speed sensor in the transaxle. It'll kill the speedo and shut off the cruise control, and because the pcm doesn't know the vehicle's speed it'll default the transaxle to 2nd gear (the engine rev). Check for a stored code 24. Also, if code 24 is stored it doesn't necessarily mean the sensor's pooched. Could be an intermittent open circuit in a wiring harness, connector, etc. If I were diagnosing it I'd start by hooking up a scan tool and monitor the vss input to the ecm, looking for a signal dropout when the symptoms occur.
intense01:
haven't forgotten you, I'm working on it. I've e-mailled one of my GM engineering buddies. Waiting for his reply.
I love the bonnevilles and am currently test driving a 96 sse with 47000 miles on it. The pontiac dealer had replaced the serpentine belt when the previous owner traded it in, the salesperson swears he has been driving it and it is great. .
I now drive a 93 jeep grand cherokee, have no car payments and would like to update to a comfortable car of which I am sure is the Bonne, I love them, hence my name: bonnelover!!! I am set on getting one of these so to my questions:
Question 1: . I did notice black spots on my clean driveway that came from the right exhaust (not the left) after I had put it in park and reved the engine to see if it had a rev limiter on it. There also was a bit of hardly noticeable fog type air that came out only on the right side. Is this carbon deposits or something to do with the egr valve that I read about in an other message that I should be expecting repairs on?
Question 2: I don't have a large hill around here to drive up, how can I check for these problems that were noted in earlier postings when going up hills with these cars, I could have this car for a year and then not encounter a hill till I drive way up north skiing or something. The dealer gives a 3000 mile warranty. Thank's in advance and not to be partial but ALCON I hope you are out there and can clue me in cause I need answers quick before someone snatches up this car.
Question 3 : Dealer wants 12,940.00. Is this a good price? I checked edmunds used price guide and for a private party got 11,284 for a "clean" vehicle. " Average" vehicle comes out to $10,859 which sounds great to me. Dealer is not budging much on the $12,940. And because I LOVE these cars it shows when I am talking price with the salesperson!
The shudder on grades usually starts in the 60-80K mile range, and is usually your engine's way of telling you it'd like new DELCO plug wires. :-) Don't use aftermarket wires, they won't last.
As for the price, you're asking the wrong guy since I'm Canadian. Dollar exchanges and car prices here make the Canadian numbers way higher. If you really like the car though, consider that the dealer has put money into reconditioning it and is offering a 3,000 mile warranty. Most private sellers do their reconditioning on their way through the local car wash. Try a search through www.autotrader.com and see what comparable cars are going for on lots in your area. That'll help you make a more informed decision. Good luck with it.
Obviously I have to replace the line a.s.a.p.
But the thing is, that in December 2000 i went to our local Duane-Salerno GM dealership and have been offered to perform a recall on my car. Some time later after I pick up the car I found that of two cooler lines only one had been replaced, and the other was left untouched. I'm not sure though if this was right. The recall description says: "dealers will replace the transmission oil cooler lineS". Does it mean both or one?
Another thing - could it destroy the transmission? I still saw some fluid in there, but the sound when I shifted to gear "1" was bad even though not too loud. I called GM customer service, but they pointed back to dealer and could not provide the information on what exactly should be performed within recall...
the following is extracts from NHTSA recall description:
************************************
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 96V015000
Component: POWER TRAIN:TRANSMISSION:AUTOMATIC:COOLING UNIT AND LINES
Manufacturer: GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Potential Number of Units Affected: 585182
Year: 1992
Make: PONTIAC
Model: BONNEVILLE
Manufactured From: To:
Year of Recall: '96
Type of Report: Vehicle
Summary:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES MANUFACTURED FROM AUGUST 1991 THROUGH JULY 1995. THE TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER LINE CAN SEPARATE WHEN THE VEHICLE IS OPERATED IN LOW TEMPERATURES IN COMBINATION WITH HIGH TRANSMISSION LOADS.
VEHICLE FIRES CAN OCCUR DUE TO THE SPILLAGE OF TRANSMISSION FLUID.
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER LINES.
Re the steering wheel shimmy at lower speeds, that's usually caused by a bent rim or a tire belt shifted. Try rotating the tires front/rear one at a time and see if the symptoms go away or change to a "waddle" in the rear of the car.
When we first got the car, I was ready to take it back to the dealer because when you would press one of the memory switches for the seats, the CD would change and I thought there was a ghost inhabiting the electrical system. Only after several months of procrastination on taking it back and experimenting did I realize that everything is keyed off of the driver ID.
Many prayers later, I make it to 5 miles south of my exit, and the car starts shaking/shuddering and then 15 seconds later just dies as I'm doing 73 on the interstate. Coasted to a stop. The lights and radio and all power stuff works, but the engine won't start. After about 45 minutes sitting on the side of the road *praying* for a highway patrol officer to mosey on by (and me without a cell phone for once) the car finally starts with a shudder and shake. This lasted about 5 seconds, then it ran smoother and I nursed it home the last 10 miles. I have no idea how.
Now it absolutely will not start. It tries to turn over, it just can't fire, and therefore just isn't successful. All of the power stuff still works. I don't think that I cracked the engine block and mixed the coolant in the oil because the dipstick isn't milky colored. However, there is coolant in all of the vacuum lines.
Any ideas or suggestions? I'm already entertaining the idea of a new car, and I've already kicked myself for continuing to drive after the warning lights came on.
Thanks!
I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in .
Looking forward to meeting everyone!
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs