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I've read some past posts on Mileage....Took the Bonny with 115k on it out east this summer 2000 miles with 5 adults and a trunk full of luggage...averaged 32 MPG the whole trip...couldn't believe it!
Shake/Vibration in Steering Wheel at Hwy. Speeds (Diagnose/Balance Tires/Wheels)
#00-03-10-007
Shake/Vibration in Steering Wheel, Floor, Seat at Highway Speeds on Smooth Roads (Diagnose/Balance Tires/Wheels)
1995-99 Buick Riviera
1997-01 Buick Park Avenue, Park Avenue Ultra
2000-01 Buick LeSabre
1998-01 Cadillac Seville (SLS, STS)
2000-01 Cadillac DeVille
1995-01 Oldsmobile Aurora
2000-01 Pontiac Bonneville
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years as well as provide additional reference information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 83-30-04 (Section 3 -- Steering/Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on shaking/vibration in the steering wheel, floor or seat at highway speeds, between 96-115 km/h (60-72 mph) on smooth roads. This condition may phase in and out.
Correction
Tools and equipment for this correction are as follows:
J 8001, or equivalent, Dial Indicator Set with Magnetic Base J 7872 and Roller Tip J 23672.
Off-vehicle plane dynamic tire/wheel balancer (refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 73-35-05 dated October, 1997 for information on balancing aluminum wheels), or the GPS 9700 Hunter
balancer/road force measurement machine (refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-03-10-006 dated December, 2000 for information related to tire radial force variation). Refer to the Additional
Information section later in this bulletin.
Tire changer
Torque wrench or J 39544 (Torque Limiting Sockets)
Vehicle lift capable of supporting the front suspension to simulate normal road posture, while driving vehicle on the hoist.
Important
This procedure must be followed step-by-step and completed in its entirety. Absolutely no shortcuts are to be made.
1.Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking in the General Information sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.
2.Visually inspect the tires and the wheels. Inspect for evidence of the following conditions and correct as necessary:
Missing balance weights
Bent rim flange
Irregular tire wear
Incomplete bead seating
Tire irregularities
Mud/ice built-up in wheel
Stones in the tire tread
3.Set tire pressure to 205 kPa (30 psi) cold.
4.Inspect the engine and the frame mounts for proper position and installation (especially the driver side or rear powertrain "oval shaped" mount). For C and G cars, refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 73-71-04A dated May, 1998.
5.Make the necessary repairs using the applicable Labor Time Guide times.
6.Lower the vehicle.
7.Road test the vehicle at the complaint speed for a sufficient distance on a known smooth road surface to duplicate the condition. This should be done after a tire break-in of at least 16 km (10 miles)
at 72 km/h (45 mph) or greater, to eliminate any possible tire flat-spotting. Record the results on the Tracking Sheet found at the end of this bulletin.
Important
Confirm that the condition is not a brake pulsation.
8.If a road test indicates the shake still exists, go to Step 9.
9.Raise the vehicle.
10.Look for and remove all stones, water, snow, dirt or other elements from the tire treads and from inside the wheel rim, now and after each road test (for balance accuracy and safety).
11.Label the tire/wheel assembly positions (LF, RF, LR, RR). Mark each tire/wheel assembly and one stud in order to return the assembly to the original position.
12.Remove the tire/wheel assemblies from the vehicle.
13.Mount each tire/wheel assembly on the off-vehicle balancer.
14.Follow these steps for the off-vehicle tire/wheel assembly radial runout measurement (refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-03-10-006 dated December, 2000 for information related to tire radial
force variation):
A.Slowly rotate the tire/wheel assembly one complete revolution and ZERO the dial indicator on the low spot.
If reading is inaccurate/inconsistent, wrap tape around center of tire tread. Measure radial runout of taped surface.
B.Measure the tire/wheel assembly radial runout at the center of the tire tread (refer to Figure 1). It may be necessary to wrap the tire center tread circumference with tape to allow a smooth dial
indicator reading. The off-vehicle radial runout of the tire/wheel assembly should not exceed 0.76 mm (0.030 in). Record the results of each measurement on the Tracking Sheet found at the
end of this bulletin.
15.If the off-vehicle tire/wheel assembly radial runout DOES NOT exceed 0.76 mm (0.030 in), go to Step 19 in order to inspect and balance the tire/wheel assembly to within 1/4 ounce. If the runout
DOES exceed 0.76 mm (0.030 in), remove all balance weights and go to Step 16 in order to "match mount" the tire on the wheel.
Important
If the reading is inaccurate/inconsistent, wrap masking or duct tape around the entire tire on the center tread (especially on tires that use an all-season or aggressive tread pattern).
16.If any tire/wheel assembly radial runout exceed 0.76 mm (0.030 in), "match mount" the tire on the wheel (rotate the tire 180 degrees on the wheel) and re-measure until the runout is within 0.76 mm
(0.030 in). Record the results on the Tracking Sheet found at the end of this bulletin.
17.Perform the off-vehicle radial and lateral runout measurement. If you are unable to bring the tire/wheel assembly within specification, follow these steps:
A.Dismount the tire from the wheel.
B.Measure both radial and lateral runout of the wheel at both the inboard and the outboard bead surfaces (refer to Figures 2 and 3). If any measurement exceeds 0.51 mm (0.020 in), replace
the wheel. Record the results on the Tracking Sheet found at the end of this bulletin.
Important
Always measure the radial and lateral runout of a new wheel.
18.If the wheel is within 0.51 mm (0.020 in), replace the tire with a tire obtained from your normal local tire source. Measure radial runout of the new tire/wheel assembly off-vehicle and maintain within
the 0.76 mm (0.030 in) runout specification. Record the results on the Tracking Sheet found at the end of this bulletin.
Important
When mounting the tires on the wheels, lube both tire and wheel, inflate to 275 kPa (40 psi) to ensure proper seating, then adjust to 205 kPa (30 psi) . Use of proper lubricant is essential. GM
G
the 0.76 mm (0.030 in) runout specification. Record the results on the Tracking Sheet found at the end of this bulletin.
Important
When mounting the tires on the wheels, lube both tire and wheel, inflate to 275 kPa (40 psi) to ensure proper seating, then adjust to 205 kPa (30 psi) . Use of proper lubricant is essential. GM
Goodwrench rubber lubricant, P/N 12345884 (GM of Canada P/N 5728223), or the equivalent, is suggested. After tire servicing, the wet lubricant may allow the tire to move on the rim during hard
acceleration or braking and such vehicle operation should be avoided for approximately 3 hours. Mark the tire at the valve stem for position to notice any movement (and resultant loss of balance)
during initial vehicle operation.
19.Balance the tire/wheel assembly to within 1/4 ounce on either rim flange.
Important
Use a known good, recently calibrated off-vehicle two plane dynamic balancer. Use the finest balance mode available in order to perform a "perfect" balance of the assembly. The center pilot hole is
the primary locator. Back cone mounting is recommended. If any assembly calls for more than 1/4 ounce on either rim flange, remove all balance weights and re-balance.
A quick balancer calibration method is to check the "repeatability" of the balancer by releasing the tire/wheel assembly from the balancer after the first balance readings, rotating it at least 90 degrees
and reclamping it to the balancer. Obtain readings at the new position and compare to the first readings. The two sets should be within 1/4 ounce.
Use polyester epoxy coated MC Series balance weights (long term retention) on aluminum wheels. Install with a plastic-tipped hammer so that the coating is not damaged.
20.Install the tire/wheel assemblies in the original position as marked in Step 11.
Important
When reinstalling the tire/wheel assemblies on a vehicle at any point in this procedure, the following tightening procedure must be followed:
A.Hand tighten all the wheel nuts.
B.With a torque wrench or impact wrench with a wheel nut torque limiter socket, tighten the nuts to approximately 1/2 specification, 70 N·m (50 lb ft), following the normal "star pattern"
procedure in the Tires and Wheels sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.
C.Again, using the same "star pattern" and a torque wrench or wheel nut torque limiter (J 39544), tighten the nuts to full specification 140 N·m (100 lb ft).
21.Road test the vehicle at the complaint speed for a sufficient distance on a known smooth road surface to duplicate the condition. Record the results on the Tracking Sheet found at the end of this
bulletin.
Important
Steering wheel shake generally indicates a front tire/wheel assembly problem.
22.If a road test indicates the shake still exists, determine which front tire/wheel position appears to be the major contributor and attempt to improve by "indexing" the tire/wheel assembly to the hub on
the vehicle one stud at a time until the shake is eliminated or minimized (there are five possible wheel stud "index" positions).
Important
BEFORE PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING STEPS, DISABLE THE TRACTION CONTROL BY REMOVING THE FUSE AT THE FUSE BLOCK.
A.To "index," raise the suspect vehicle front wheel assembly off the ground. Support the lower control arm so that the tire is in a normal operating position and the front drive axle is at a
normal operating angle.
B.For accuracy and safety, inspect for and remove all stones, water, snow, dirt or other elements from the tire treads and from inside the wheel rim.
C.FIRMLY SECURE (BLOCK/CHOCK) THE REAR WHEELS.
D.FIRMLY SECURE (BLOCK/CHOCK) THE FRONT TIRE/WHEEL ASSEMBLY THAT IS NOT BEING "INDEXED."
Caution
Do not run the vehicle higher than 55 mph (89 km/h). Stay clear of the universal joints and the balance weight area in order to avoid personal injury. Do not run the
vehicle on the hoist for extended periods of time, as this may cause the engine or the transmission to overheat.
E.From the driver's seat, operate the vehicle at 1/2 speed on the speedometer (i.e. 54 km/h (34 mph) on the speedometer indicates tire speed of 109 km/h (68 mph).
F.Monitor the steering wheel, floor and seat for vibration.
G.If the vehicle shakes, stop the vehicle, remove the raised front tire/wheel assembly and index the wheel one stud at a time. Refer to Step 20 for the tightening procedure when reinstalling the
tire/wheel assembly on the vehicle. Operate the vehicle as noted above and again monitor the steering wheel, floor and seat for vibration. Continue until the best wheel-to-stud combination is
determined.
H.If suspect, measure the wheel stud runout of the wheel hub bearing assembly. Measure as close to the mounting flange as possible. Refer to Figure 4. If runout exceeds 0.310 mm
(0.012 in), replace the hub assembly.
Important
Prior to the road test, enable the traction control by installing the fuse at the fuse block.
23.Road test the vehicle at the complaint speed for a sufficient distance on a known smooth road surface to duplicate the condition. Record the results on the Tracking Sheet found at the end of this
bulletin. If the condition is still unacceptable, perform a high speed on-vehicle wheel balance. Leave the original balance weights (from Step 19) installed, add any additional required weight, splitting
it equally between inboard and outboard rim flanges. Ensure that brake drag is eliminated.
Important
When performing on-vehicle wheel balance at the speed range in which the shake/vibration occurs, front wheel speed can be determined as in Step 22 and rear wheel speed can be determined with a
scan tool.
24.Road test the vehicle at the complaint speed for a sufficient distance on a known smooth road surface to duplicate the condition. Record the results on the Tracking Sheet found at the end of this
bulletin. If the condition still exists, contact the Technical Assistance Center (TAC) for further discussion.
Important
Be prepared to review each and every step of this procedure. Every step must be completed before contacting TAC.
The Tracking Sheet will be required for further assistance. Be prepared to fax the Tracking Sheet to a TAC Engineer for review.
Additional Information
The
completed "step-by-step" to reduce rotating component runout and imbalance to a minimum. The majority of the vehicles will be corrected by addressing runout and balance issues with the original tire/wheel
assemblies.
Short-cutting will not repair the condition. This is not, and there is not, an easy fix.
Keep your District Service Manager informed.
Positive communication to the customer during this procedure is necessary for customer satisfaction.
There is a new piece of equipment now available in the GM Dealer Equipment Program by Hunter Engineering that will reduce time and errors when measuring force variation, runout and static/dynamic
balance. It is a vibration control system called the GSP 9700 with Road Force Measurement. For detailed information on models and accessories, contact your Hunter representative or call 1-800-448-6848.
In the event the postings get deleted due to the long length, feel free to email me for the tsb in full. You will find my email address under my profile.
If you don't want to email me the TSB number is 00-03-10-007
*@#$ car. If you read post 216, the car has not ran well enough to get to bankruptcy court yet.
I'll keep ya'll informed. Trouble is, if they don't get it right (and if not my attorneys will likely get all of my money paid back for the car - all of it - as it's already paid for) - don't know what kind of car to get next (that I can also afford.)
It is a 98 SE, btw it too has had alternator problems. As well, although not to often, in mid flight it will quit on me...I shift to neutral and start it again and off we go. Why does it do this and what is the cure?
What's good for GM is sh-t for the country?
I talked to our local dealer's service manager today who I have known for awhile and who's judgement I trust. I asked him if I was being unreasonable in assuming the dealer in Maine could have put my Bonneville back in running order and he said absolutely not. We also looked up the service bulletin about replacing and rerouting the shift cable. Imagine our surprise when we read that the service bulletin only referred to cars with a column shift, not the console mounted shift that I have. I then called the dealer in Maine and suggested that he might want to actually read the service bulletin. I told him that I expected him to get back to me with an answer on why they would have ordered a shift cable for column shift. Depending on the dealer's answer, I believe that I'll be contacting Pontiac to give them some feedback about one of their dealers.
The local dealer here in Illinois also said that although it is not being advertised, effective the first of this year, all GM dealers can perform warranty work on all GM cars. I had called a local Chevrolet dealer in Maine and he told me to call Pontiac. So, if any of you find yourself in a fix, you don't have to go to a Pontiac dealer for repairs although if the dealer you go to doesn't sell a comparable platform, you run the risk of someone working on a vehicle they're not familiar with.
Hope that helps.
Campo57
After taking a turn, regular corners and speeds , like in a subdivision etc . . . I get a popping sound and feel from below the floowboards just at the end of strightening out. It gives me the impression that it is something "clicking" or "popping" back into place after being raised out of normal driving position by the lean caused while cornering.
Anyone have any ideas . . . .
So - I the next step is: I will go to litigation. Somebody somewhere suggested this problem has been remedied in the 2002 models. IF so - I may litigate (via my attorney) for a 2002 model equipped as nicely as my current 2000, which I still love - save for this vibration issue. What I DON'T love is the way Pontiac dealership/service personnel have treated me all along. They have avoided, deceived, cajoled, and outright lied to me about this difficult issue and what can be done to fix it.
So that's where I stand with my green metallic Bonnie right now. More later.
The dealer I just went to last week made it clear that they were NOT interested in telling me anything. The rep at the Service desk told me "everything you need to know is on the repair receipt." End of story. So they basically blew me off - they were aware that this car is up for a Lemon Lawsuit. The Service rep told me GM authorized them for only 2 hours of time - that because it was part of the Lemon Lawsuit, that was all they'd do for me. I got the "bum's rush."
I'm really ticked-off at the way I've been treated. Finally really sick of doing anything more about this than go to court. I have an attorney. I have a great case, he says. GM has to pay for him, too.
It's a shame. But this is apparently how customers get treated by GM sometimes. It stinks. I've heard other, similar horror stories.
As you know, my car has been into the shop at least 9 times in 6 months for this very annoying vibration issue. And I still have the vibration. This could go on forever. I'm tired of it all, now.....one Pontiac-GMAC dealer says one thing; another says something else; one refuses to do this or that; Firestone dealers disagree on this (2 of them I've been to!) and then another tire outfit I went to, well - they say another thing; so then it's more back-and-forth, more *wasted time* for me - and so on and so on. I don't want to [and will not] pay for anything else with regard to this issue. I've had it. I now know, by virtue of all these experiences, that I cannot "make" Pontiac "do" or "re-imburse" me for ANYTHING. I'll I can do is sue under the Lemon Law and hope for the best. Sheesh.
On another note: do you know if this vibration problem is "fixed" on 2002 models of Bonnevilles??
I checked GM's online service manual and there are no TSB's for vibration listed at all. I did notice that they have a new rim design, this may be the fix that it needed in the beginning, but that is only speculation.
Good luck in court, keep us posted on the progress.
I also, on ocasion, heard a noise like the window was hitting something when it was completely up - i really didn't give it much thought- just figured maybe the window wasn't lining up properly-cause it didn't do it everytime- WRONG!- called my dealer from the Garden State Parkway on the way home- explained everything to him- brought the car in late that afternoon- needed a new window regulator- somehow, something got bent -and jammed the window from going up-anyway- same thing- they had to overnight the part and i got the car back late the next afternoon- no charge- still under full warranty thank God!
just passing on info to anyone else- if you start hearing a cracking or clicking sound when your windows reach the top- be warned- its not normal- have your dealer fix it right away- especially with colder weather coming etc- its no fun when the windows are jammed!
Regards to all!!!
Chuck
Cheers, Dan
Good to hear from you. Is you old PC working well these days or did you give up and buy a new one?
Ken
thanks for the welcome back!
Ken: i got a new PC awhile ago- nice system- Hewlett-Packard.
In reading the posts i see where you had that rear stabilizer bar from Saner installed- big difference?
If so i may have to think about having it also installed on my SE.
Just an update- car now has around 23,500 on her and no problems except those originally listed- brakes and driver side front window.
Still a great running vehicle!!!
Congrats to all those new members who purchased Bonnevilles- best of luck and happy motoring!!!!!
Regards,
Chuck
Chuck - I do notice an improvement in the cornering manners of my SE since installation of the stabilizer bar in back. There have been comments in the press regarding the less than precise handling of the SE model in handling emergency maneuvers. Well I would say this fixes that issue very nicely. I'm not really an aggressive driver since I do try to maximize fuel efficiency but when taking some of the sharp bends in my road and on curving highway on and off ramps I definitely see the difference.
Go for it - you'll not regret it at all.
Anyone else driving an SE might want to consider the same upgrade. Perhaps the 2002 model has this standard now? It should be.
Best wishes to all
Ken
TIA
Ken
Someone posted here a link to a site where information like the sway bars diameters in a car could be found, but I didn't bookmark it.
I picked the SLE over the SE exactly because I thought that it handled better, more obedient to steering wheel commands...
Have I already said that the car is a joy to drive?
;^)
Anyway, I have a 1995 Bonnie SE with 54K miles on it. It is new to me, had it about 2 weeks now. It is in perfect condition, just like a new car, well, except for one little thing.
I occasionally get the four chimes that mean ‘check the gauges stupid’. When I look at the dash I see the ‘check gauges’ light lit, but all the gauges look good. I have to look quickly, because this condition only last for a few seconds, then the check gauges light goes away and all is well. This sometimes will not happen for several hundred miles, and sometimes during a 14 mile round trip into town it will happen five times. Naturally, this is annoying, mostly because anytime the check gauges light comes on the cruise control kicks out. But twice the car has actually shut down, it restarted at the first turn of the key.
So I went and got a code reader and checked the codes. After every repetition of this fault the reader displays P1629. I have two different code list and they call this code two different things, but both are related to the theft deterrent system.
As near as I can tell the car thinks I am stealing it, but only a second or two at a time….lol
Anyone have, or know were I can find, a troubleshooting flow chart for this code? Better yet, has anyone seen this problem before and can point me in a direction to start looking? Is the GM manual good for this type of work?
Thanks,
Darrell
Campo57
Anyone know of an issue with reading the keys?
Darrell
It could be the actual ignition reader and not the key if it's doing it with both keys. Might want to get that checked out.
Campo57
It's good to hear from you even though the circumstances weren't great. It's a good thing it wasn't the rear passenger window like mine or it might have taken a couple of days to get the part.
Anyway, that advice is good to all, check all of your window operations up and down!
Peace
KZM
(Kevin)
Rule #2 Bow before your supply of Zaino and offer praise
Rule # 3 apply your zaino (or heavan forbid, something else)
Rule # 4 admire your shiny Bonne
OK - now we can start filling this up with real stuff . . . .
Mark
To check the fluid level, place the car on a level surface and allow it to cool for at least three hours. Remove the check bolt and the lube should reach the threads at the bottom of the filler opening.
The price included a one year warranty. make sure that the battery has at least 900 CA and 650 CCA
Any suggestions? Checked the fuse and it is good
Reply personally if you can to jcastrorod@yahoo.com
cwn.