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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • I looked at the description on the TSB (400299), and the summary says 'Popping noise from front calipers on light-braking', or something to that effect, so you are probably correct and I need re-designed caliper sleeves. I wonder, would Beck-Arnley after-market sleeves have this modification? The caliper hardware kit with the sleeve and boots is $23 bucks in NAPA (compared to $55 from Mazda...).

    Thanks again,

    G.
  • beachnutbeachnut Posts: 291
    Well, my mechanic looked at it and said it needs a new regulator (?) and that you can only get this part from Mazda. The motor seems to be OK, but he said the newer design is only sold as a motor/regulator combo (can't get one w/o the other) and it's $260 - plus labor makes the repair $365! Ack! I'm thinking about trying to get the part from a junkyard, but I've never tried this type of repair before ... has anyone else done this on their own?
  • gibbergibber Posts: 41
    I have a 1999 ES, and the passenger's side wheel brake squeaks and screeches upon application. When turning left it sounds like there is a high pitched scraping-often without applying brakes. Replaced the pads, turned the rotors without effect. No problem with the driver's side at all. What are the possible causes?
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    >>>When turning left it sounds like there is a high pitched scraping-often without applying brakes<<<

    culprit:
    power steering??
    wheel bearing??
  • milymily Posts: 2
    Hello, I have a 99 Protege LX with 1.6 liter, I can hear the engine knocking when I go uphill, the dealer change the mass sensor and still is knocking, 93 gas improved somewhat, Do anybody has same problem or help? Thanks
  • gibbergibber Posts: 41
    The pitch changes when applying brakes so I think it is related-although could a wheel bearing do this?
  • I have the same problem with my 2000 SE 1.6L. The knocking / pinging started around 30,000 miles and only shows up with I use 87 octane fuel. The dealer looked at it but didn't come up with an explanation. In the meantime, I use 89 octance fuel and it seems to go away. Knocking and pinging under heavy load seems to be a problem with the 1.6L engine, however, no one really knows if its creating a long term problem.
  • Hi,

    I have a '00 Pro ES with ~68K miles.
    I've recently noticed that my Pro will shake/vibrate like it's not getting any gas. The engine light will start flashing and then remain on. If I drive it for a while, the vibrating stops and I can drive it fine, but the engine light stays on. I took it to a service station where they convinced me to have a "Induction Service"--deposit/fuel injector cleaning done on it. They also fished the computer code out and found that it was misfiring, but they couldn't reproduce the failure. They also wanted me to replace the spark plugs and wires which I did not have done since the plugs were just replaced. The work that they did did not fix the problem.
    The next thing I plan to do is replace the wires myself, but if that doesn't fix it, does anyone have any ideas what else I can do to try to fix it? I remember this same thing happening when I used to have a 323 and I think the wires were bad. Anyway, if new wires does fix it, how can I get the engine light to shut off?

    Another thing I'm noticing is that sometimes the brakes make a groaning/creaking noise (like an old floorboard) when coming to a stop. I just had the brakes replaced at Midas (discount brake shop) and they said the rotors would need replaced in a year. Could it be the rotors need replaced now? Or maybe it's brake dust? Any ideas on that problem would be appreciated as well.

    thanks,
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    did you have the Coil Recall performed on your car? Sounds like it could be that.

    "Induction Service" that's what you get for stopping at a gas station instead of a trusted mechanic/dealer.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    u need to have the ingnition coil replaced---check recalls for 00 Pro ES. Mine behaved very much the same. Changed coils and Voila.....everythign is fine.
  • Hi,

    I have a '00 Pro ES with ~68K miles.
    I've recently noticed that my Pro will shake/vibrate like it's not getting any gas. The engine light will start flashing and then remain on. If I drive it for a while, the vibrating stops and I can drive it fine, but the engine light stays on. I took it to a service station where they convinced me to have a "Induction Service"--deposit/fuel injector cleaning done on it. They also fished the computer code out and found that it was misfiring, but they couldn't reproduce the failure. They also wanted me to replace the spark plugs and wires which I did not have done since the plugs were just replaced. The work that they did did not fix the problem.
    The next thing I plan to do is replace the wires myself, but if that doesn't fix it, does anyone have any ideas what else I can do to try to fix it? I remember this same thing happening when I used to have a 323 and I think the wires were bad. Anyway, if new wires does fix it, how can I get the engine light to shut off?

    Another thing I'm noticing is that sometimes the brakes make a groaning/creaking noise (like an old floorboard) when coming to a stop. I just had the brakes replaced at Midas (discount brake shop) and they said the rotors would need replaced in a year. Could it be the rotors need replaced now? Or maybe it's brake dust? Any ideas on that problem would be appreciated as well.

    thanks,
  • I am an idiot.
    I remember getting the recall note in the mail, but I never did anything about it.
    At least I didn't spend all the money they were trying to get out of me.

    Any ideas about the braking?
  • My 94 Mazda(77K) seems to have developed a low squeel/scratching noise from the front right tyre. The brakes and rotors are new. My mechanic says that the interior seal in the axle has gone bad and thats causing the noise. The noise is audible and the squeal is longer at low speeds.

    Is the mechanic correct.?
  • nsbio1nsbio1 Posts: 48
    I have a 96 LX, and the engine pings nicely unless you pour premium into the thing. A friend of mine has a 98DX. Does the same thing (the car, not the friend :) ). It looks like that proteges up from the 2nd generation are prone to pinging. I believe many people do not complain about it because they do not pay attention to the sounds their cars make. Seems to be a common problem (both w/ proteges and people :) ).
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    ... instead of just pouring premium into it?

    Lessee here:

    First Protege: '92 LX. Totaled at 28,000 miles. Never pinged.
    Second Protege: Another '92 LX. Traded at 83,000 miles. Never pinged.
    Third Protege: 2000 ES. Currently at 45,500 miles. Never pinged.
    Wife's Protege: 2002 Protege5. Currently at 11,000 miles. No pinging.

    I've heard of pinging problems with the '99 and '00 1.6-liter engine (DX and LX). By my history with 1.8s above, it appears the 1.8s haven't suffered this problem. Still, however, pinging is caused by pre-detonation and it IS fixable. Have you had your timing checked? Engine checked for carbon build-up? When's the last time your engine was tuned? In what condition are your spark plugs? Another big thing to check on your Protege is your plug wires. If you've never replaced them, go ahead and do so. Protege plug wires seem to go no farther than about 40,000 miles before they start to develop shorting problems (due to the way the head is designed). For about $60 you'll be amazed how much better your car performs.

    Good luck!

    Meade

    P.S. The owner's manual for my '92 RECOMMENDED premium fuel. I'm assuming you're smart and you checked your manual a long time ago. If the manual for your car does recommend premium and you've been using regular, then shame on you! ;-)
  • dsm6dsm6 Posts: 813
    When cold, my tranny grinds in second and third. It goes away when warm. I recall someone else complaining of this, and being told it isn't gears grinding, but is instead bushings - possibly worn. Well, mine really is gears grinding.

    I took it in to have it checked. The service rep said that the fluid in the tranny must have been of the wrong type - wrong color and viscosity. He thought that simply changing the fluid would solve the problem. Nope. I took it back to service rep. who is trying to get a hold of Mazda for a solution. Mazda hasn't responded after about a week, so he is going to go ahead and order new sychros for 2nd and 3rd.

    I'm wondering why the tranny would have the wrong fluid in it. Oh well. Hopefully nothing more than the sychros have been messed up. Credit goes to the service rep. for acting without waiting for Mazda to finally respond. I hope that doesn't cause trouble for him, but I'm sick of grinding my gears away. On really cold mornings, I have to skip shift 1st to 3rd, which requires revving the cold little 4 banger up a bit. C'est la vie.
  • wenzwwenzw Posts: 1
    I was told the mass air flow sensor on my 97Pro
    is out of oder, I wonder if it's easy to be changed.

    TIA.
  • TIA,

    Try to find a service department that isn't on the ball and tell them you have a '99 Protege with a recalled MAFS. I'm sure they'll buy it (yeah right!!!)
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    I have a '95 LX 1.5 that pings on ocassion during strong acceleration. I have done every typical maintenance one might do for this problem (excluding higher octane-I'm cheap), but have not solved it yet. Am I worried? No. I bought the car new and it now has 152,000 miles. It dosen't burn a drop of oil and the power is still good for this modest engine.

    Two things I am still going to try are setting the plug gaps to the widest factory spec and in conjunction clearing any stored failure codes in the computer by disconnecting the negative battery terminal then depressing the brake pedal for five or more seconds.

    If anyone has actually solved this problem on their Protege, I would like to hear from you.
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    I think it's "normal" for this to happen. Some people have experienced pinging/quick knock when accelerating in cold weather (myself included last yr on my 2001), that goes away in less than 5 mins once the car is warmed up.

    Try looking for "pinging" or "knock" in the search menu, or read up on this thread. Personally, I haven't had it this yr yet and we've had cold weather and snow to date, so I just take it easy - not reving above 2500RPMs and accelerating quickly until the car warms up. Once that's done, it's business as usual - plenty of zoom.

    Dinu
  • neesieneesie Posts: 13
    I have had nothing but problems with my &#145;99 Mazda Protégé. I will admitted so far they have not been major (acceleration noise which is still present) but my car is only three years old and of course now off warranty. The new problem is the door locks. Four month ago the locks with the remote switch refuse to work. Even when unlocking the doors the old fashion way &#147;key in the lock&#148; there is a loud motor noise. At that time it was covered under the warranty. After four month, again they have gone bad and are now off warranty. It has only been four months, is that the life expectancy of Mazda Protégé locks. Does any one know if there is a known problem the Protégé door lock?
  • I'm not sure about the power door locks being a common problem for Proteges (I've had two and neither one has had that problem crop up). If you have a repair done under warranty the repair itself is covered for 12 months or 12K miles even if your car has now gone out of it's standard 3 year 50K mile warranty. Take it back to your dealer, they're responsible to fix it.
  • My es has been trouble free. Sometimes the audio deck on-off switch takes a vacation, but that's about it.
  • My 00 ES had the door lock problem described earlier...when I would lock or unlock the doors, I would hear a chainsaw noise. Eventually one of the locks would not work...took it in for fixing and it was a door lock actuator. It took the dealer about an hour to fix and everything is honky-dory now!

    --Chris
  • beachnutbeachnut Posts: 291
    Has anyone ever done this? I found a replacement thru junkyarddog.com for $60. I did this once way back in the day on a '77 Lemans and I needed a wheel-puller tool, which I don't have anymore of course. Will I need this tool? What about the cruise control?
  • kenxkenx Posts: 8
    I just got my new LX yesterday. Got a killer deal because it's an '02. When I test drove it, it had a mild vibration I could feel through the steering wheel and shifter, but it didn't seem serious enough to make me not buy the car. It had only 15 miles on it at the time.

    Well, after a day of highway driving and stop & go driving in and out of Boston, I've decided to have the car looked at. The vibration is just unpleasant enough that my right hand is numb and achy from my 2-hour commute. It is really unpleasant at higher rpms.

    The problem must be related to the engine/transmission mounts. I've arranged to have the dealership look at it in a couple hours, but the service manager has already started down the "tires/alignment" route which I know will lead nowhere.

    I've read only a couple other posts here that mention this problem, but I was not at all pleased to hear one service tech say the vibration may be "normal". If that turns out to be the case I won't be driving this otherwise wonderful car for long.

    I'll let you know how things go at the shop today.
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    I has a missalignment too when I picked up my car, and many had this issue too, so who knows, maybe the tech is right.

    Dinu
  • dsm6dsm6 Posts: 813
    Can you describe why you feel it's drivetrain related and not suspension/wheel related?

    I can tell you that I feel quite a bit of vibration through my shifter (manual), but very little through the wheel once the car is warmed up.
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