Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

chikoo · February 2003

looks like the MAF to me too....
i avg around 22-24 with 80% city driving.

rotarykid · February 2003

It depends on exactly what it is you have done to your intake. If you still have the original air flow sensor, and it is failing, then they should replace it without issue.

rotarykid · February 2003

I dont see an advantage to doing it yourself if you are not sure what you are getting into. You will have to pay for the new part regardless, and the dealer shouldnt charge you more than an hour for the labor. ($65-$85) If you break something, or put it back together wrong trying to replace the actuator you will be the one having to pay for it. If the dealer should break something, or make a mistake, they will pay for it. If I could tell all car owners one thing, it would be "pay me now or pay me later!"

maltb · February 2003

If I could tell all car owners one thing...

Not all but maybe quite a few.

ram22 · February 2003

I have a 2001 Maxda Protege LX 2.0 auto trans with 21,000 miles on it.
It has recently developed a problem where the steering wheel vibrates/shakes when I go above 65 mph on the freeway. This vibration was not present earlier and the car was very smooth.
I feel that this problem started after my car got stuck in some thick snow in front of my apt once or twice and we pushed it out a bit and handled it roughly. I don't know anything about cars. What could be the reason for this ? I have not yet asked the dealer. Kindly shoot an email to rampaps@yahoo.com also.
Thank you very much !

protege_fan · February 2003

It sounds like there's snow stuck inside your wheels causing an imbalance. Get the snow (probably ice by now) and the vibrating should stop.

ram22 · February 2003

Thanks.
How do I check and remove the snow/ice from inside the wheels ?
Do you mean to say the inner surface of the wheels under the car ?
Will a carwash help to get rid of the snow/ice ?

Kindly let me know.

protege_fan · February 2003

If it's above 0 C (32 F) then I'd say a car wash would probably work.

If you have steel rims, I guess you could take off the hub caps and knock the snow out.

Hope that helps!

dinu01 · February 2003

Mike is right: You must have snow INSIDE the steel wheels.

Dinu

rotarykid · February 2003

unless you are a tech or get your vehicle serviced at the dealer regularly, then it still applies...........

maltb · February 2003

not all home mechanics are incompetent. I am not a tech, but I assure you that I am more competent than the "certified" techs that do my vehicle maint. The only advantage of a dealer tech, IMO, is access to TSBs, WDS units and factory manuals. I am not putting down any competent technician out there, but having been to several Mazda tech training courses gives me a pretty good idea about the average technician.

chikoo · March 2003

my only use of "the avg tech" is to do what I want to get done for 3 reasons:
1. he has all the necessary tools at his disposal
2. and the factory manuals, tsbs, etc.
3. and I usually do not like to get my hands dirty ie no grunt work( I only like to use my brains)

in all almost all the case, i end up going to the service center and clearly indicating what I want to get done. I don't go there and say "dude, see if there is anything wrong with the car. if there is fix it". No sir.
I go and say "Dude, this is what is wrong with my car. So fix it".

needless to say, i benefit from the much needed "inside" help from Malt.

mazdafun · March 2003

Stuff like oil, oil filter and air filter changes.

Usually, they have the least experienced techs do these jobs, as they're fairly easy. After having a couple of drain plugs cross-threaded and the wrong amounts of oil put in (and having lost 2 of 4 screws on my air filter cover), I decided I'd had enough of these types of mistakes and started doing them myself.

Usually, more experienced personnel work on the more challenging jobs. They still make mistakes though, so document, document, document. For instance, as preventive maintenance, I had all the wheel bearings replaced on my '89 323 somewhere past the 100k mile point. The tech forgot to put the grease seals back on, resulting in leaking grease and grease all over my wheels. Careless. What really ticked me off was the dealership service department didn't apologize and charged me for fixing their mistake. I avoided them for something like 2 years after that. They've changed service managers since then and have been better, so I take my car in for stuff I won't do (like coolant changes, belt replacements (timing, and the acc. belts in my Pro...much harder to get at than in my 323).

newcar31 · March 2003

Me too. I do all of the regular maintenance myself. Some people think since they bring their car into the dealership that they will have some Mazda master tech doing their oil change. Lol. It's the same people that used to work at Jiffy Lube, etc. I know because I used to work with those people.

mazdafun · March 2003

I know condo assocations and apartment owners won't allow any kind of automotive servicing on their premises, not even washing (some of them).

Some homeowner associations won't let you do car work outside your garage either. Some folks just have nothing else to do. It's not like I'm putting my car up on cinder blocks.

rotarykid · March 2003

but my experience with mazdas gives my customers more of an advantage. TSB's, and factory tools are only part of what a good dealer tech can offer. Anyone can pull TSB's off the net, and aftermarket scanners are enough to fix any 2002 or older vehicle, but these items can be costly in the wrong hands. Working on mazda's exclusively for 15 years has given me the knowledge and training to know your car better than you and allows me to find things wrong with your car that you didnt even know were a problem before they become a big one. I dont care if chikoo is a rocket scientist, he wont be coming into my store and telling me what is wrong with his miata when it has 3 different evap codes in its memory. I'm sure you guys/gals can change spark plugs and remove the blower motors to clean out debris, but experience is what fixes REAL problems.
thanks for reading this "DUDES".

maltb · March 2003

is that you make too many assumptions. I have never and do not take any of my cars to somebody to be fixed unless: a) it's free (warranty) or b) I don't have or don't have access to (rare these days) the equipment. Yep, I've paid for a couple alignments and I don't know anyone with a boring block.

Some people were raised with amazingly practical parents. In return, the ones I know were recently rewarded with a free valve job for their parenting efforts.

I never stated that your experience wasn't valuable. I'm sure you can find a problem faster than I can. However, that doesn't mean I can't find a problem. I take real issue with people that feel that if you are ourside their profession you are suddenly not capable.

mazdafun · March 2003

But there are many who do and like doing it (although many wouldn't own their own diagnostic tools...but many own engine lifts and some even have vehicle lifts...overkill for me). I've a few friends who completely disassemble and rebuild cars (even recent ones, and I mean down to the single components). Not my kind of hobby, but it is theirs.

rotarykid · March 2003

You say you have been to several tech training courses, however you are not a tech. This doesnt make much sense to me, but you seem to have a grip on automotive technology. This is why I discounted your group (techs) when I made my original statement. If you insist that you are not a tech, (yet you have been to several tech training courses), then your access to these courses gives you way more than knowledge than the above average home mechanic and I will make an exception in your case.

newcar31 · March 2003

I was talking about regular maintenance. Oil changes, transmission fluid changes, spark plugs, air filter, radiator fluid changes, etc. The Mazda dealer cannot do these things better than I can. I have more confidence in myself doing these things than whoever they would have doing them at the dealer. I worked with a kid at Jiffy Lube that went to a local Mazda dealer to work. Why would I pay the dealer to have the kid that I taught how to change oil, etc. to work on my car? That's insane. If my check engine light goes on, you can figure it out. That's all I was trying to say.

chikoo · March 2003

my statement was for the average tech. if u consider yourself to be an average tech, then yes, you might as well expect me to come to ur shop and tell u what to do.

But presuming from your attitude, i certainly believe that ur more than just an average tech. and will certainly be a pleasure to meet in person and work on a "tech" project sometimes together.

No offence intended, if one was percieved.

chicagopro · March 2003

I feel another song coming on...

--Dale

chikoo · March 2003

mazdafun · March 2003

Same as going to the physician.

Also note timing and sequence and any other circumstances (such as the environment: cold, hot, humid etc.).

And you can mention what YOU think might be the cause.

Having access to the service manual, with its diagnostic charts is a big help.

chikoo · March 2003

can't just simply walk in to the doctors office and tell him to find out what is wrong.
U need to provide intelligent data to him so that he makes the right calls.

rotarykid · March 2003

Do you sense an attitude?

I started this conversation when someone suggested they remove their door panel and replace the door lock actuator themselves. Good idea but I've seen too many of these home projects go awry. I know that anyone who can use their noggin for other things besides a hat rack can logically determine what component is at fault and attempt to replace it. In todays cars however, with multiplexing and CAN wiring harnesses, the fault could be with a number of components. Also just by mistakingly removing or not removing the proper item one can cost his/herself extra $$. I will be the first to admit that I am not perfect, and I make mistakes(rarely

) and the learning process I go through benifits every car I work on after that. Thats why I get paid the money I do and my customers are always,for the most part, satisfied.
I am was definitely not referring to oil changes and the like. Anybody who takes the time to do these things themselves is definitely going to do a more careful job than the lube tech who guessed wrong as to the size of the drain plug and now you have to use visegrips to remove it!

maltb · March 2003

the purchase of a factory repair manual for whatever you are working. They are typically written so that an untrained monkey can make a proper diagnosis and complete the repair with the necessary precautions.

chikoo · March 2003

but now I realize that in the US the word "attitude" by default means a bad attitude....what I meant was your general attitude towards tech work in a good sense.

tomciviletti · March 2003

I try to do whatever I can at home. I'm not the perfect mech, but I have had bigger problems because of botched sevice, dealer and not, than I have had from my own mistakes. There was the time I picked up a '73 civic after business hours and drove home 10 miles with NO BRAKES AT ALL! There was the time I was stranded east of Pendleton OR [read: nowhere] when the dealer done wheel bearing lube job lead to destruction of bearing and spindle on a '79 colt.

chikoo · March 2003

came to my home, after I had picked up my car and driven home, with a gallon of oil in his hands......they forgot to put in oil after draining it......thanks goodness I drove only 1.5 miles.

mazdafun · March 2003

Instead of ignoring it or refusing to acknowledge it.

chikoo · March 2003

for not only acknowledging but for the fact that they were able to catch mistakes made by rookies and own it up.

mazdafun · March 2003

It definitely earns my respect (and business).

fries1 · March 2003

I have a 2002 Protege5 with 5000kms (3000miles)and luv it. It starts great even at -39C no block heater pugged in, it gets great mileage and its comfortable. But a couple of things worry me, the big bug is that in cold weather -18c or colder, 2nd and 3rd gear grind when upshifting or downshifting,it is fine as things warm up after 20 mins or driving and my Mazda dealer has looked at it and said its not serious, I'm not so sure.Can anyone else tell me if they think this could be serious? On another note I would like a bit more midrange hp and torque, would a tweak on the ecu help or what is my best and cheapest way to get a few more horses?
Thanks in advance for any assistance
Brian

protege_fan · March 2003

It's a known issue w/ the gearshifting when cold, although I can't recall if it's on a TSB or not.

People have reported that they've had luck by changing to a 75W90 synthetic manual tranny fluid.

looseburg · March 2003

Have a 2002 Protege that I'm loving. I recently had the oil changed for the first time. Shortly thereafter I've noticed a strong smell of oil burning. Can not find any evidence of oil overflow that could be the cause. Any ideas?

dinu01 · March 2003

When I get the oil changed, SOMETIMES there's a smell of oil, but NOT burnt oil - most likely a minor spill on the engine that is causing fumes as the engine heats up. It will go away.

Dinu

newcar31 · March 2003

Sometimes when you remove the oil filter, some oil drips out onto the exhaust. The oil filter is above the exhaust. Another thing that could have happened is the person who changed your oil spilled a little bit on the exhaust manifold when filling the engine with oil. Both of these situations will cause a burnt oil smell. It should go away soon. If it doesn't, check the oil and bring it in.

reitrof · March 2003

I have a P5 and first tried Mobil1's synth 75w90 and it did not do much. I recently changed to Redline MT 90 75w90 and noticed a big improvement. You might want to try that. It made a big difference in 2nd gear grinding.

chikoo · March 2003

I think I might change it myself if it is on the surface.
reason is sometimes the car revs so smooth that u think u r using butter for lubrication

and sometimes i can feel it is not smooth and I know very well that if I take it to the dealer, he is never going to notice the difference I am FEELING on day to day basis.

So how much does the MAF cost?
where is it located?

all help appreciated on this one.

chikoo · March 2003

MT000003607 - ALTERNATOR IMPROVEMENT

Charge lamp illuminates and/or MIL. A noise prevention condenser was added to the D terminal circuit of the generator to prevent malfunctions of the voltage regulator due to excessive noise that is emitted in the B terminal circuit during charging. Beginning VIN: JM1BJ2*****421942 New ALT P/D January 12, 2001 ( Part number did not change) Rebuit Alt P/D February, 2001 4 digit Lot No. (located next to amp rating on stick on tag) Example 1112: First digit: Year 1=2001 Second digit: Month 1=Jan (1:Jan, 2:Feb,...X:Nov, Y:Nov, Z:Dec) Third N Forth: Day 12 = 12th

rotarykid · March 2003

that bulletin applies to certain proteges that were turning on either the battery light or MIL due to a problem in the alternator. Very rare at my dealer. It went back as far as some 99's according to the bulletin.

chikoo · March 2003

what would u think is wrong with my ES if I told u that sometimes it revs smooth like butter, but some days u can "feel" it is not as smooth as u would like it to be.

It is almost like a 50:50 chance of happening everyday.

Nothing else i.e climate, time of day seems to be affecting it. I know taking it to a dealer would only bring me stares because they would find the car "normal" by all means since it is my "feel" ...the car does not hesitate nor does it ping & neither does it backfire nor does the CEL come on.

chikoo · March 2003

I had the Ignition coils and spark plug+wires replaced(under warranty) last year due to failure.

chikoo · March 2003

kaiserhead · March 2003

I've seen after market peformance mass airflow sensors advertised of tv, not sure if they're made for the Protege.

The dealer (Gunther in Ft. Lauderdale) replaced my mass airflow sensor for my 1.6L this week. The car is running a lot better now, the idle is smoother and the power band is more consistent.

chikoo · March 2003

"feels" rough at times...unwilling to rev as freely as other times.
no CEL, no herky jerky, no pinging....just simply rough on the edge when u push the gas pedal...

fries1 · March 2003

thanks everyone for your info, Ive switched to PenzOil on the gearbox and helps a bit with the cold grinding, but not very much. I was wondering where reitrof in Manitoba got the Redline brand name at? As I can't seem to find it in Saskatchewan so far. I have a friend into Winnipeg weekly if I have to get him to pick it up its not a big deal.

doublesix · March 2003

I have a 99 Protege ES. Recently it seems that there is a lot of water getting into the driver side of the floor, both front and back. The floor mats are just totally soaked. Of course there is a lot of snow and rain going on, but I still feel confused about how the water could get into the left side of the car floor.

I did notice that there is a pipe underneath the driver's seat. What is it, and what is its function? Would the water come from that pipe? Or from somewhere else?

Thank you very much for your thoughts in advance.

protege_fan · March 2003

I'm in Calgary and know of a few places to get Redline...mostly Autoparts stores. I don't think Cantire has Redline though.

Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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