Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

irishalchemist · April 2003

is that sometimes the guys behind the counter don't know sh*t for shinola. I went to the AutoZone store near my place and the guy told me he could only read codes if the CEL was lit (wrong: with OBD-II, the CEL can be off and the code still stored), and then he said he could not read cars newer than 95. But, maybe if I go today the guy behind the counter will be more knowledgable.

In any case, I rather make two or trhee trips to AutoZone than pay $100 bucks to learn that my car was misfiring (which was obvious) and to clear the codes...

G.

protege_fan · April 2003

The website I posted earlier will let you input a trouble code and give you what it means.

http://www.obdii.com/codes.asp

IE.
Vehicle Manufacturer: Mazda
DTC: P0421
Reading: Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

Not sure how helpful that really is, but it's something.

doublesix · April 2003

I guess that I can forget about it from now on. I really appreciate all the people here who contributed their thoughts and help.

ram22 · April 2003

I tried the suggestions from Maltb.
It still feels the same even after using the handbrake. It is slightly tough to move from P to R and vice-versa. This happens only half the time.
Is this a problem or do other cars also feel the same ?
Can the dealer help/solve it since I still have the bump to bump Warranty ?

maltb · April 2003

Can the dealer help/solve it since I still have the bump to bump Warranty ?

Of course!

If there is a problem with the car, by all means have the dealer look at it. Try to get a service adviser or service manager to take a drive with you and see the issue in action. Otherwise, you might get your car back one day later with "Cannot Duplicate Problem" written on the repair order.

louie67 · April 2003

I have a 1996 Protege, 73k miles. I suddenly have been seeing an intermittent air bag indicator light, appearing ,for example, after ignition, and then extinguishing after a few seconds. Sometimes, it appears for a few seconds (or minutes) during normal cruise speeds. It would seem like a loose electrical connection, or similiar, but I don't know. Any ideas ?
Thank you

ram22 · April 2003

I tried the suggestions from Maltb.
It still feels the same even after using the handbrake. It is slightly tough to move from P to R and vice-versa. This happens only half the time.
Is this a problem or do other cars also feel the same ?
Can the dealer help/solve it since I still have the bump to bump Warranty ?

boggse · April 2003

It may be a bad connection in the instrument cluster. Same thing happened this week to my Jeep Cherokee. Cost me $140 in labor to fix, then they dropped the gauge cluster and broke it, so I ended up getting a new one anyway. I didn't have to pay for the new one, just the $140 in labor.

irishalchemist · April 2003

Hi All,

As a number of you have mentioned, the CEL turned itself off after ~20 or 30 start cycles. I still think there is a DTC stored inside the ECU, but at least I don't have to see the stupid light reminding me to fix something I already fixed.

While trying to get the codes read, I came across this, which may be of use in future CEL episodes (at nearly 60K miles, they will be more likely...). It's a nice/simple/cheap OBD-II to RS-232 interface:

http://www.scantool.net

You can buy it assembled, or buy parts and build it (what I'm going to do as my weekend project). Hope this is helpful,

G.

irishalchemist · April 2003

Hi All,

Quick question. My dealer want's an obcene ammount of money for a distributor cap and rotor for my 96 protege. I checked with Trussville Mazda in AL, usually very cheap source of Mazda parts, and they don't have them in stock and don't know when they may get them.

What aftermarket brand would you use instead of the Mazda OEM part? Would you even use a non-Mazda distributor cap/rotor? I saw a Beck-Arnely one that looks pretty sturdy for aprox. $25 (cap) and $15 (rotor button). Borg-Warner's were more expensive (comparable to the dealer's...).

G.

tomciviletti · April 2003

I haven't had problems with any of the distributor brand parts I have used. Either brand you mentioned [or bosch or napa] should be fine.

p100 · April 2003

You can buy a good quality brand name distributor cap from any auto parts store. Chances are that Mazda buys their parts from one these major manufacturers. I had a similar problem with my 95 Nissan pickup. The dealer wanted over $ 30 for a distributor cap alone. I got a good quality cap for about $ 11 from a local auto parts store , and never had a problem with it. I would go with a brand name: Bosch, Wells, etc.

p100 · April 2003

I used to own a 1992 Mazda Protege LX with a 1.8 litre DOHC engine. I experienced the problem with the spark plug wires suddenly when the car had about 52K miles. No prior problems, just sudden stumbling on light acceleration one day. I was warned by the dealer that these cars need spark plug wire replacement every 60K miles or so due to extreme heat generated in the spark plug wells between the cams. No engine light came on during this incident. Replaced the plug wires and spark plugs, distrigutor cap and rotor, and the car ran perfect.

protege_fan · April 2003

According to my manual (2001 LX 2.0), it says to replace the spark plugs at 48 000 km (30 000 miles). That's normal wear and should be expected.

mdaffron · April 2003

I too used to own a 1992 LX, and now I own a 2000 ES and a 2002 P5. My '92 also experienced the wire problem -- at 34,000 miles. I replaced the wires on the 2000 at 30,000 miles.

The wires go through the top of the head and down into the block. After a while they start to break down (from heat and moisture) and start to short from the wires to the metal tunnels surrounding them inside the cylinder head. And just like the guy said, there's no warning. I'd just driven to my girlfriend's house to pick her up, and it started when I got back out to the car and restarted it. I sputtered to the dealer thinking I was in big trouble, but he installed a set of wires right there in the drive-up bay and I was on my way for about 60 bucks.

I recommend replacing the wires along with the plugs every 30,000 miles. Don't have my manual right in front of me right now, but I thought the manual recommended this interval too.

Meade

irishalchemist · April 2003

my Protege was averaging 28 mpg (city driving), and this last tank gave me 31 mpg. That would represent a 10% improvement on gas consumption just from the wires.

Also, thanks for the info on ignition parts. I think I'll go with Beck-Arnley, as a friend of mine can get them cheap from a part store here in town.

G.

compensate · April 2003

I haven't posted here in about 1 1/2 years so I thought I'd give an update now. The Protege used to be my car, bought it new in 1999, but now my wife drives it most of the time. I now drive a 2001 Hyundai Elantra GT and love it - not knocking the Protege though!

Our 1999 Protege ES 5-speed (last year for 1.8 liter DOHC engine) is doing very well at 78,000 miles! Outside of regular maintenance, the only issue we have had (besides a freaky broken water pump fin at 5,000 miles-replaced under warranty) was having to replace the alternator at 68,000 miles. Even better is the fact that we did not have to replace the ORIGINAL front brake pads until 72,000 miles! And the original rear brake pads are still in fairly decent condition.

My only depressing thought, after reading some of the previous posts about timing belt replacement, is that we had the timing belt replaced at 75,000 miles, as the Mazada dealer told us he had seen several Proteges come into his shop with broken timing belts (and destroyed engines, of course) at only 65,000 miles. Now I feel he was simply trying to make a service sale and it has me very mad! The timing belt replacement cost around $400, which was money we did not really have.

So, for anyone living in the Nashville, TN area, I would avoid the service department at the Mazda dealership in Franklin, TN, as I feel they cannot be trusted.

We plan to keep this Protege (I had a previous 1992 model that was flawless) for quite some time!

protege_fan · April 2003

The Proteges have non-interference engines, meaning if the belt breaks, the engine won't go with it. Sounds like they were screwing with you.

mdaffron · April 2003

Long time no talk to. Remember me?

Very interesting post. My 2000 ES has 53,500 miles on it, and it too is still on its original brakes! You just made my day; maybe there IS hope that the brakes will pass state inspection next month after all. I've been meaning to pull off a wheel and check them, but frankly I've been scared to look!

I usually try to arrange having my timing belt replaced at the same time I do a major service where I plan to replace all of the belts. It's the labor that makes it so darned expensive. I remember one year, while in college, I told my dad I wanted a timing belt (for my Hyundai, by the way) for Christmas. He didn't understand and actually went out and BOUGHT the belt and wrapped it! Upon opening I said to myself, "gee, thanks a lot for the $45 belt" and then went off to find the 250 extra bucks I needed to pay for the labor. Thanks Dad ... ;-)

I also owned a 1992 LX (two of them, actually) and it was running like the proverbial top at 83,000 miles when I (stupidly) got rid of it. I'm hoping my 2000 does at least as well as yours. BTW, how much did the alternator replacement set you back?

Cheers,

Meade

chikoo · April 2003

>>>Sounds like they were screwing with you.<<<

sound like??.....THEY DID SCREW HIM.....

boggse · April 2003

"I would avoid the service department at the Mazda dealership in Franklin, TN"

Funny - That is where Mazda American Finance is located, or least where I send my payments.

mdaffron · April 2003

We have something in common. Your comment just made me check ... yes, my wife's payment goes to Mazda American Credit at that address too. (I'm the bill payer in the family.)

Nice -- my Protege's financed at a local bank. I make drive-thru payments (or sometimes while grocery shopping since they're teamed up with the city's most popular supermarket chain) and save a stamp, and my payment never gets delayed by snail mail! Heck, I even got a free interest checking account and free checks when I got the loan!

(I could opt for direct withdrawal from my account, making the whole payment thing totally transparent, but I don't like people's electronic hands in my electronic pockets. Besides, I enjoy the "countdown to zero" feeling I get each time I tear off one of those payment coupons. Only 26 to go ...)

Meade

tomciviletti · April 2003

I haven't done it on a pro, but timing belt replacement is not beyond the average DIYSer. Just make sure yu get the cams lined up properly with the crank.

sansar · April 2003

I have a '93 Mazda protege DX (MT) with 145K. I've owned it since new and it still runs like a jem. Recently I began to experience a noise coming from the front left wheel as the steering is turned from left to right and around 10 - 30 mph. I took it to the dealer who suggested replacing the wheel bearings ($200). After a few days I still noticed the noise. Returned to the dealer who now now said it may be the axle. I replaced the axle assembly on the left to include a new CV joint ($300).

Well now I have $500 invested and still the noise. I returned to the dealer today who says I'll have to leave the car as "it will take time to isolate the noise". Has anyone experienced this problem? Any suggestions?

chikoo · April 2003

ALL 1999 and 2000 Protege Owners, take note:
DTC'S P1633, P1631, P0173 UNSTABLE IDLE/STALLING
Applicable Models
Model
Starting S/N
Ending S/N
1999 PROTEGE
00000000
ZZZZZZZZ
2000 PROTEGE
00000000
ZZZZZZZZ

0003500 Dealer Repair Information
Customer may experience one or more of the following:

* Charge light on

* DTC P0173 (caused by excessive noise in O2 sensor circuit)

* DTC P1631

* DTC P1633

* Unstable Idle (Surging) under electical loads (cooling fans, rear

defroster, headlamps,ect.)

* Stalling coming to a stop or at a stop, due to the unstable idle.

Condition may be caused by excessive voltage spikes and/or noise

produced within the alternators that had an incorrectly soldered

condencer and were installed in vehicles produced in March,

April and May of 1999.

If you incounter a vehicle with this concern replace the alternator

and verify repair.

Copyright © Mazda North American Operations

tomciviletti · April 2003

Are you sure you are not hearing the steering?

If the pump is weak or low on fluid, or the belt is slipping, yu can get noise at full lock, although this does not sound like bad bearings or a bad CV joint.

ram22 · April 2003

Hi,

I have a 01 Pro LX 2 litre auto trans with 21,600 miles.
I recently noticed that after I start the car and just drive about half a mile, the indicator for engine temperature goes up to the 9 O clock position immediately. Is this normal ?
I think this used to be near the bottom (6 or 7 O clock) most of the time.

Please let me know.

dinu01 · April 2003

Yep. Mine has always stayed at 9. The engine warms up really quickly. If it goes above 9, then worry. Until then, enjoy the drive.

Dinu

ram22 · April 2003

Hi,

I have a 01 Pro LX 2 litre auto trans with 21,600 miles.
I recently noticed that after I start the car and just drive about half a mile, the indicator for engine temperature goes up to the 9 O clock position immediately. Is this normal ?
I think this used to be near the bottom (6 or 7 O clock) most of the time.

Please let me know.

chikoo · April 2003

6 or 7 means ur engine is running cold.
9 means engine temp is normal.

compensate · April 2003

mdaffron,

Yes, I remember you. Life has been a whirlwind of job changes and family events and I've had little time to visit Edmunds. The current job is so demanding I am about to lose my mind!

About the alternator, I had it replaced by a non-Mazda garage. The alternator cost about $210, with about $75 labor.

I also wish I had never traded my 1992 Protege! It was problem-free for the approximately 60,000 miles I owned it. Bought it for $1500 under invoice, too. The seat fabric was the best non-leather fabric I have ever seen - durable as heck! Oh well, we live and we learn.

Good luck to you!

And, protege_fan, I am pretty certain that my 1.8 liter DOHC is an interference type engine. Maybe the newer 2.0 liter version is a non-interference type (like the old 1998-2000 Ford Escort 2.0 liter engine). I could be wrong. . .

chikoo · April 2003

is attributed to the fact that Mazda makes non-interference engines for the Protege.

So No. You do not have an interference engine.

newcar31 · April 2003

"And, protege_fan, I am pretty certain that my 1.8 liter DOHC is an interference type engine. Maybe the newer 2.0 liter version is a non-interference type (like the old 1998-2000 Ford Escort 2.0 liter engine)."

The 1.8L and 2.0L in 99-03 Proteges are essentially the same engine with different stroke lenghts, both are non-interference. The Escort 2.0L engine is not the same engine as the Protege 2.0L.

glideslopes · April 2003

I own a 00 ES 5-Speed with 32,000 miles. Lately I've noticed a drop in MPG of around 2mpg. Also, when I back up with the wheels turned either direction and depress the clutch the car will stop as if the brake is slightly on. It does not seem to occur in forward motion. The emergency brake is not involved. If I straighten the wheels out during the event, the car will roll with no resistance.

Also, while accelerating I occasionally feel like something is holding the car back? Like someone is pushing against the front as I accelerate?

Does anyone have any thoughts? I was wondering about the differential? I have had the car in the shop twice over the past 3 years for them to check out a "clunk" sound I get on the 1-2, and 2-3 after the car is warm. Both times I have been told it is a normal sound. I have service tickets from both appointments. The car is under warranty until 7-20-03.

Mark.

mdaffron · April 2003

Ditto. My '92 was running like the proverbial "top" when I traded it in at 83,000 miles. I had the "Elegant Beige Metallic" paint job. I passed one on I-95 going home yesterday; it looked pretty darned good. I could only imagine how many miles were on THAT 11-year-old zoom-zoomer!!!

Meade

mdaffron · April 2003

Had your brakes checked?

(My 2000 ES 5-speed is at 54,000 miles and doing just fine!)

Meade

altair4 · April 2003

According to the Gates Rubber website, the only engine in the Protege that is an interference engine is the 2001 2.0 DOHC. It's the only one marked with an "*". Here's the link:

http://www.gates.com/downloads/download2_common.cfm?file=GatesTBR- - .pdf&folder=brochure&CFID=214427&CFTOKEN=22025634

newcar31 · April 2003

Gates is wrong.

irishalchemist · April 2003

may be the brakes. My 96 Protege had a problem with the caliper pins not sliding and the problem was agravated when I turned (poping sounds when breaking while turning at low speeds). If your calipers are not sliding properly, they may be binding, thus the resistance when you accelerate plus the lower milage.

However, I also noted the same feeling of resistance when accelerating and lower mpg's due to spark plug wires. How many miles do you have on your current set of plug wires?

G.

chikoo · April 2003

if u put it in N, does it roll easily?
that might help u rule out the brakes angle.
or is the brake fluid tube getting pinched when u turn full? that may cause it to push the calipers?

mazdafun · April 2003

If they don't get enough lubrication or get too much corrosion or brake dust deposits, then they'll bind up, like they have on my '89 323. I have to spare a weekend to disassemble, clean and lubricate both front brake caliper assemblies on my poor neglected baby.

compensate · April 2003

Thanks for the Gates link. I has seen that link a couple of years ago with older data and I could swear that most Mazda engines were listed as interference type.

Well, that is good news. I don't guess we'll worry about replacing the next timing belt until the new one breaks (which may not occur for quite some time).

Bummer on my Elantra GT, though! Interfence engine and 60,000 mile service! Arrgh!

altair4 · April 2003

Yeah, it's a handy reference. I thought that our 92 Protege 1.8 DOHC was an interference engine the entire 10 years that I owned it! Go figure!

We have a VW Passat now, and I just read on another site of a guy whose timing belt prematurely failed. Lucky for him, his warranty covered the $3,500 to $4,000 cost.

newcar31 · April 2003

I can't believe Gates has the Mazda DOHC 2.0L listed as an interference engine. It is not an interference engine. It was like that last year and I would expect them to have fixed their catalog by now. Oh well.

alternator · April 2003

I e-mailed that correction to Gates about a year ago, and they admitted their error, but still no correction!

glideslopes · April 2003

I never thought about the front calipers binding. I'll have it checked.

Mark.

ram22 · May 2003

I have a 2001 Protege LX 2 litre auto trans with 22,000 miles and seems quite good; a pleasure to drive around.

If I release the brakes very slowly while starting to move OR if I apply the brakes very softly while bringing the car to a gradual halt, the brakes make a slight clunk sound or groaning sound. This always happens on an inclined plane.
I have also unconsciously mastered this and I can make it groan or not if I choose to.

I am worried about this sound. What is causing it and how can I solve it ?
Will the Mazda dealer solve this free of cost since it is still under the bump to bump warranty ?
Kindly advise.

Thanks,
-Ramprasad S.

chikoo · May 2003

very normal.
nothing to worry about.

ram22 · May 2003

Thank you chikoo.
Thanks for the info about engine heat also.

Normal ? I am surprised; but also glad.

I have driven other cars like Corolla, Camry, Civic - each for about a month while we rented them or friends' cars. They don't make this noise.

chikoo · May 2003

brake pads bieng used. Asbestos free or something.

Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles