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Comments
G.
What is wrong here?
PCV dirty (clean or replace)
Throttle body dirty (clean)
MAS failing (replace)
Plug wires failing (replace)
Spark plugs worn (replace)
And probably a few others I can't think of now. The MAS on my 1.6L ('99) was failing and caused low, unsteady idle (as if it was going to stall) whenever I came to a stop or a crawl, even with the engine warmed-up. It also cause my fuel economy to drop from a typical 28-29mpg to 22-24mpg. Mine was covered under an extended warranty Mazda gave to owners of some 1.6L Proteges. You could bring it in to Mazda and ask them to diagnose the problem. I think it costs $36 or something like that.
My Protege experienced similar symptoms to yours early in the MAS failure. It happened sporadically, mostly when the engine was "cold" but then it happened all the time and got me really worried about stalling (to the point where I'd feather the throttle to keep the engine running at stops).
You can check the PCV and throttle body yourself by opening them up and seeing if they're really filthy (wipe them out). You can inspect your plugs yourself too for excessive wear (you'll need a very long 16mm spark plug tool, and maybe an extension...I had to use a 3in extension bar with my socket to extract my Protege's plugs). For the wires, you'll need to check their resistance (I don't know the tolerance range). If you have a multimeter, you can check the MAS too, though I can't inform you on what the normal readings should be (all it said on my report was it was "reading low").
Any number of items:
PCV dirty (clean or replace)
Throttle body dirty (clean)
MAS failing (replace)
Plug wires failing (replace)
Spark plugs worn (replace)
Right on the money, Chow-Chi!
I had similar symptoms at the beginning of winter, and they vanished after doing 3 of those things - I bought NGK spark plugs and wires from the dealership (around $50 total - yeah I could have bought OEM ones for less) and had the PCV replaced at the next oil change - they used a no-name brand. The trembling vanished, and mileage came back up to more familiar levels.
I have raised it back and looks better now.
You are begging for trouble messing with that screw and not following the proper procedure.
the TAS is the one which one should not be touched at all. There is nothing to my knowledge about the AAS.
It's warmer now, so time to roll the window down, enjoy ... and start listening to all those noises coming from the engine bay that went unheard all winter!
I am starting to notice a 'metallic' noise coming from the engine under certain conditions. It is whistle-like, and although it's very high-pitched, changes pitch. It's not loud, just like metallic 'chirping' - Hard to describe. Anyway, it seems to happen more with the engine cold, and it is noticeable when stepping on the gas under load. I think it may be as simple as a leaf or twig in the air intake, but haven't checked. Car is a 96 DX. Any ideas?
G.
I can hear all sort of engine noises in winter when the windows are all up & there is no AC fan running and the only source of sound is the thin firewalll which lets in all engine noises.
In spring, with the windows down, I can hear nothing except the wind whistling by and other cars on the road.
Ok. I get it. you must be driving close to a wall, where the sound of the engine bay gets reflected and you can hear it from your open windows.
Regarding your sound, could it be the belt stretching itself when cold? or maybe some pulley bearings need to be lubed?
Exactly! When I get on a 'walled' access ramp or drive by parked cars is when I notice the noise...
I like your suggestion of pulley bearing needing lube - I think that that will also explain why the car makes other variety of noises when accelerating which are somewhat affected by the AC being on or off. I'll check them this weekend.
Would you use lithium grease on these or are they sealed bearing?
G.
I'm not worrying about it because it's been doing it for tens of thousands of miles and I now have 55,500 miles on my '00 ES. And I have the warranty extended to 100K miles.
BTW, mine is a five-speed and I hear it most when taking off in first -- during the first touch of the accelerator pedal -- the loudest. Is this the same for you guys?
Meade
Funny thing is that the noise from the air intake in my wife's 626 is more like a vaccum cleaner: A continuous 'sucking' noise...
G.
Any hints welcomed...
As I had never done this before, I consulted a Haynes manual and the instructions were pretty clear. I ordered 4 Monroe Sensi-trac srtuts from Autopartsgiant.com for about $53 apiece. Autozone has spring compressors that they loan out for free with a deposit. I don't own any air tools or impact wrenches and used just standard ratchets, sockets, box wrenches, a torque wrench, and a steel beater bar for leaverage on the ratchet. I also used two jack stands and the jack-up tools that came with the Mazda.
I did this project over two days interspersed with other household chores, but it could be done in 4-8 hours using primitive tools like mine.
Don't try to loosen the suspension support-to-piston rod nut on a workbench, it won't work. Break the high torque on this nut while it is secured in the car with a turn or two, then it can easily be removed after you have compressed the springs on the workbench. As the front springs are not that tall, you will have to compress them down almost as far as you can before safely removing the piston rod nut. The rear springs are taller, and you won't have to compress them as far to loosen the spring pressure on the top.
I didn't replace the rubber bushings or suspension supports as they were in o.k. condition. I just cleaned them up and put them on the new struts. I believe the only place you can get these rubber parts is from Mazda.
You will need to be careful when lowering the front struts to not damaging the front CV joints . Also, use some care when disconnecting the rear brake line from the rear strut as it is metal line from the strut to the brake housing.
One problem I did encounter was the anti-sway bar connected to the rear struts. The nuts on the control links were completely frozen and rust spray did not help. So I used a hacksaw to cut the two control links and took off the rear stabilizer bar. I'm sure someone in this forum could explain how to remove these nuts. Anyway, if I can find two new or used control links for a decent price, then I will put the rear stab. bar back on the car.
Overall, this was not too difficult a project, just time consuming. If you have average mechanical skills, a few tools, and a work bench, then you can do this project. Just be careful when compressing the springs and setting the compressed springs down (compressed springs that come undone are very dangerous). And be sure to put the parts back on in the same order or location as you took them off.
Finally, you will need a 4 wheel alignment after replacing the struts. Happy Motoring.
My 1.5L Protege, nearing its 60K miles, has developed valve noise (tapping...). I thought that I'd wait until the timing belt change comes up, and have it done then. However, I remember the timing belt in my 626 was pristine when I had it changed. So my plan was to try to do a valve adjustment myself and at the same time check the condition of the timing belt.
Now, I will have help from a mechanic friend of mine, and he has access to special tools, so I'm not worried about the valve adjustment. The real problem is getting the shims that will be needed to correctly adjust the valves. Any clues as to who may supply these? Trussville Mazda, maybe?
Thanks,
G.
The control link connects to the stabilizer bar with a joint similar to a tie-rod end. I was able to break and turn one nut but then it just spun inside the tie-rod end and thus wouldn't come off the end of the bolt. There wasn't any flat edge on the inside of the tie-rod to grab with a wrench without destroying the rubber boot. So I just cut the control link.
Ideas?
G.
Thanks in advance.
Frank
It is possible that getting red hot could weaken the metal, but it usually doesn't take that much. as irishalchemist notes, it's differential expantion that breaks threads loose.
Is it really a bad idea in doing so?
New brake pads every so often, or a new transmission less frequently?
I'd opt for the pads once in a while in favor of the wear placed on the tranny by lurching it into third all the time.
Meade
But I would use the brakes for everyday stops.
Ancedotally, I have maintained this driving style on a Mazda Protege and it has gone 167,000 miles without any transmission problems. None.
I've done the same on a Ford F-250 (currently showing 140k) and I had to have the pan gasket replaced (it's a '89 and it frequently sits a long time). The mechanic told me the inside of the transmission was very clean and required no other service than the pan gasket.
Used the same technique on an 1983 Plymouth Horizon and it went 150,000 miles (before the body just got too bad for state inspection), with no transmission issues.
While your experience may be different, the manual clearly states that engine braking is acceptable. My experience has been good and I'll continue to do so. YMMV.
And even doing that, I've now got 58,000 miles on the original brakes on my 2000 ES.
Meade
We have a 2002 Protege ES which we bought new - has 14K miles on it now.
For the past couple of months it has been "bucking" when you attempt to start driving from a complete stop. This only happens in 1st gear. I've been driving standards all my life and haven't had this happen since my first time learning at 16! To get it going when this happens, you almost have to floor it.
Also, when you initially start the car after it's been sitting for a little bit (hour or more), it is VERY loud, seems to rev for a while. It's also much louder in general than when I got it.
Of course it's still under warranty so I brought it to the dealer I got it from, and they have told me there is "absolutely nothing wrong with the car". Has anyone else had this happen? I'm very close to losing money and trading it in for something better.
Thanks.
Kerry
Meade
FYI, My 2000 ES has 57,000 miles on it and I've already talked to my dealer -- they're not as likely to do anything about it since the car's no longer under the factory warranty. You might have a case. But just to let you know, the '92 Protege I bought new back then did it for all 83,000 miles I owned the car -- just an "idiosyncracy" I got used to. The slipping would occur only on wet mornings and only when I first started out, then everything would be fine. My 2000 has been doing it also since day one. So I don't think the clutch is being hurt by this little quirk. And after a while you learn how to treat the clutch to minimize the effect when you first take off. My mechanically inclined friend who also just happens to be a mechanic at my Mazda dealership (nice, huh?) still says it's not much more than a quirk and not to worry about it --
Meade
Thanks a lot.
Also, what type on coolant should go in a coolant change, being an all aluminum block?
As for the fans, they should both run. One is for the A/C, one for cooling the engine. If the engine is overheating (the temperature needle past the middle of the range - it usually sits just below half in mine), then the fan should definitely be on. The A/C fan will go on and off, depending on the temperature inside the cabin (I may be wrong about this, the fan may stay on and the compressor disengage...). In any case, if cold air is coming out of the vents and the engine is on the hot side, both fans should be one.
It is relatively easy to check if the fans are kaput or the relays that turn them on are kaput. Simply unplug the fan from the harness and connect a battery to it (note the polarity when you do this, and ask for help if you are not comfortable doing it...). If the fan works fine, it should turn. If they do, and you still don't see them both coming on, your relays may be bad (many other things may be bad, but that is the first thing after the fan...).
One more thing: Check the blades on the fan (do not even put the key in the ignition to do this if you'd like to have all your 10 fingers afterwards!). I had a cracked blade in the fan of my old GLC and would not cool worth crap.
Hope this helps,
G.
The problem: Engine jolts/jerks when A/C compressor is engaged.
The cause: Leaky intake manifold gasket
Solution: Replaced Gasket.
It took 4 years for Mazda to figure out this!!!!!
Jerry Standefer, u listening? Get your car checked.
chikoo "Mazda Protegé" Jun 12, 2003 10:52am
-old head