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I'd get or borrow a set of "Rhino" ramps (structural foam plastic ramps...black, silver or yellow are the colors I've seen). These have a slighter slope, which won't hit your Pro's front bumper (like a lot of metal ones do).
It's in the manual.
Meade
2000 ES
I have noticed some noise coming from my shift lever (5 spd) recently. When cold, no noise, but as soon as I drive it for a couple of blocks, the shift lever starts making this 'rubbery' squealing noise every time I shift out of 1st and into 2nd gear. It sounds like some of the bushings on the control rods are rubbing against something. At first I thought it was just on the shift turret, but I can hear it from outside (it comes from under the car).
I was looking at the shop manual, and there are numerous bushings between the stick and the control arm, so my guess is that one of these is on its way out. Anyone has experienced something similar? TIA,
G.
Is recharging a big issue w/ these cars? It seems there's alot of mention of recharging the AC. I've never seen AC recharging being an issue w/ other cars, if it needs recharging, you have a leak and that's where the big bucks will come in.
Tinting the the windows should help a great deal in keeping cool. At 34K miles, is it still under warranty? If so, I would still get a dealer to check it out.
Enough just goes through the seals after that period of time. It depends a lot on what extremes of temperature the system sees though.
Thanks!
Please post your question on the Care and Maintenance board and/or the main board.
This is a problems board therefore if you have no problem with the P5, please use the appropriate discussion.
See you on these boards!
Dinu
There are only two wires. The two coil packs are directly above the other two cylinders so no wire is needed. It's a 10 minute job to replace the spark plug wires. Go for it...
A while ago I posted about a slight hesitation issue I had. It was something that bugged me, but not really affected driveability (more in my head than anything else - One of those 'I know there is something slightly off...').
Well, found it. When I replaced the fuel filter (couple of months ago) I had to take the air duct from the air flow sensor to the throttle body (the whole darned car seems to be built around the freaking filter). I thought I had tied down everything well, but the clamp securing the pipe to the air filter box was loose. After I secured the clamp things are fine again!
G.
So I took it to a local tire/break shop and they quoted me $180 for a rebuilt 1/2 shaft. Only when they test drove it, the mechanic felt that it wasn't bad enough yet to warrant a replacement (Boot fine and thumping only very noticable when making a slow, sharp left turn). So I wait until it gets worse and then I will take it in.
So here is a question, what happens to a tranasmission/front axle if a CV joint fails during driving? Does it just spin freely with no power to the affected wheel or can it damage the transmission? Thanks.
Anyway, the noise will get progressively louder and more insistent. I believe you will will control of the vehicle should the joint catastropically fail, since there will be no power to one side of the vehicle. IMHO, I don't think I would wait real long on that replacement!
PS: I had at least 2 axles on each side replaced on our 92 Pro. The replacements never seem to last as long as the orginal.
And strangely I could not find any information in the user's manual regarding when I should have the automatic transmission fluid replaced. When do you usually get the fluid changed?
Many thanks.
Is the shifting erratic at any time?
Do you get all gears properly w/out hesitation?
Is your tranny ever slipping? Like if you had the clutch pressed while accelerating on a 5spd?
Dinu
Automatic transmission system seems to be fine without any hesitation/slipping problem. I was just wondering whether I should have the automatic transmission fluid replaced for a car with 43K miles. I could not find such information in the maintenance table in the user's manual book. Maybe I should contact Mazda USA and find out.
You seem to say there are no problems shifting and while it could be the tranny, don;t overlook the struts.
I would really recommend you set up an appt w/your dealer on Monday. The car is out of warranty so hopefully it's NOT the tranny.
I would also look in the transmission problems board (maintenance and repair board from the main town hall page) and maybe post it here too.
And also check the MPV problems board for another post from today or yesterday about a noise that could be similar to yours. Maybe you can share thoughts with that owner...
Also, wait until Monday or Tuesday to get more replies - it's usually dead on weekends here.
Dinu
Tuesday nights - 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET.
I did it in a few hours this afternoon. Bought the part at O'Reilly for $85. My first time doing this. Part was by Borg Warner and identical to original. I used ramps, but it could be done without. The big pain with doing this was the VERY LIMITED amount of space to work with under the intake mainfold. It took several socket extensions and a swivel to get to the bolts. Thankfully only 2.
Do engineers who design cars today actually work on them? My simple advice: put parts that are subject to wear in locations that are easily accessible or make the engine bays bigger like older American cars.
The old EGR valve passages and the piston rod were coated with a thick layer of carbon deposits. So either a cleaning or a new one was definitely called for.
After replacement, I took my car for a very spirited test drive, and so far, the pinging is gone.
1. Incorrect grade of fuel. The Protege calls for only 87 octane and that is what I use. I buy gas from different stations in the area.
2. Problem with engine control system. Other than the pinging, the car seems to run fine. So my guess is that the car's computer is ok.
3. Fuel injection system faulty. Again, the acceleration of the car seems fine at various speeds.
4. Damaged spark plug wires or plugs. I replaced both recently.
5. EGR vlave not functioning.
6. Vacuum leak. I checked all the vacuum hoses and listened for leaks. Found none.
Considering that the EGR valve's purpose is to recirculate exhaust gases and thereby lower combustion temperatures, any problem with the valve could lead to higher combustion chamber temps and therefore pre-ignition or pinging.
My source of information is the Haynes "Mazda 323 & Protege' 1990 thru 1997 Automotive Repair Manual, copyright 1997." I recommend this book or the Mazda Protege Service Manual.
Run great.
But... it SQUEAKS/CREAKS like an old boat when it goes over bumps the first couple of times in cold climate. This started happening after 45,000 miles. Never before.
Question:
What is causing this? Shocks or springs?
First I thought that it would likely be due to the worn-out struts, but when I brought the car to a garage, I was told that the noise comes from the two sway bar end links. They would charge me $113.70 for replacing the sway bars, but I decided to delay my decision. I am still not sure what exactly this means: The noise comes from some loose ends or worn-out bushing? Or could some greasing make the noise gone?
I think those are covered under my extended warranty. I will have to get my car to a dealer ASAP.
Over the last few days I have been struggling with the replacement of the right front half shaft and associated suspension/steering parts. Got all the parts at O'Reillys and was almost near the end when I hit a stopper. The '95, and I am sure later versions, has a right front half shaft in two parts with a bracket and bearing in the middle. I could not separate the two shafts, completely frozen. It looked like an easy job for a specialized puller or spreader, but I sure couldn't find one at the auto parts stores. So considering that I was doing this on the ground with jack stands and couldn't disconnect the bracket due to lack of space, I conceded defeat. But I did replace the tie rod ends on both sides as the grease boots were cracked open. I also noticed that the ball joints on both sides also had cracked open grease boots. This was likely the cause of a popping type sound I was having as I came to a stop while driving.
So I call a nearby shop and set up an appointment. They look at the car and tell me that the boots are fine and they couldn't hear any clicking noise. I disregard their ignorance( I have been listening to the clicking every morning on left turns for the last 100K miles)and tell them to replace the half shaft. They check the play on the ball joints and say they are still ok. I tell them to look closer at the cracked boots and then replace them (A sure sign of bad customer service is when they argue with you over what you want done). So they finally do the work. The bill, $466. 2 hours labor at $86 per hour and aftermarket parts marked up 50% over what I paid a day earlier at O'Reillys, but at least it's done.
Tomorrow I have the alignment checked (thankfully for free) and then the old Protege will be ready for the next half of its life.
A friend of mine has a 97 Protege, 1.5L, 5 spd., with 67K miles. She told me the other day that her CEL came on. I had the codes pulled with my scanner, and got only one: P0505. Since I did not have the table with me at the time, I asked her if she had tightened the gas cap. She said that she never makes it 'click', so I said '...that's it...'. However, when I looked P0505 up on the web later that day, I found "Idle System Control Malfunction". I called her, and asked her if the car had ever stalled or idled erratically after the CEL had come on. She said that the car has not done anything different - No problems she can tell. Can a loose gas cap trigger a somewhat unrelated OBDII code?
TIA,
G.
If I accelerate hard enough at low RPMs, especially in reverse, I can hear the strut bar being hit by the engine. Well, an air hose shook off near the top of the engine (highest point, towards the driver side and facing the rear). Apparently, this hose leads to a pressure sensor that helps the ECM decide how to run the engine, because idle got low and unsteady. Power still seemed OK.
I thought the MAS unit I'd had put in as part of a recall was failing like the original faulty part, but plugging this hose back on fixed everything (hey, saved myself the diagnostic fee!). I put a nylon cable tie on it to help keep it on (either the metal clamp wasn't installed or it got shaken off), so I don't do this to myself again.
And yes, I did raise the strut tower brace with a set of washers (thanks to a suggestion I got here on one of the Edmunds Protege boards). I don't dare raise it any more as I'm afraid I'd run out of thread on the studs at each strut tower.
Can anybody give me some details on it? Recal#, date issued and so on, please?
I think it might be time to go and get some money back from the beforementioned mechanic.
btw. yesterday my cat converter had the check enine light come (which makes sence with the faulty coil...)
You can also go to Mazdausa.com, log into the owner's section and enter your VIN to see if it's included in any recalls.
July: Car jerks while downshifting, check engine light comes on. Result: faulty throttle sensor, $350U.S. for part and labour.
October: Check engine light comes on, check all the usual suspects (gas cap, fuses, etc.) light still stays on. Dealer checks codes, finds air metre and oxygen sensor not functioning propery. Dealer replaces air metre for free under TSB. I pick up the car, check engine light still on. I'm told the oxygen sensor has failed and needs to be replaced ($200-$400 CDN) Oddly enough, the car runs fine, although gas consumption is not as good.
October: Steel rims have surface rust, need to be treated and painted again.
Its been a great car so far, I hope it doesn't keep this up.