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Comments
(1) P0171 - Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1;
(2) P0455 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak/no flow).
I'm not so sure what exactly these two codes mean, but I noticed that a few weeks ago there was a discussion regarding code P0171 (failing MAS). In message # 1881 mazdafun specifically mentioned a recall on some 1.6L models affected (99-00 DX and LX models). Does this recall also apply to 99 ES 1.8L model? Would these problems (mainly about emissions) still be covered under warranty?
Can I still temporarily drive the car while trying to contact a dealership to take a look of the problems?
IMO, the car is driveable - but try to get to your dealer within a few days.
Dinu
It's the other way around. Please read the article.
Toyota had been resisting repayment, prompting angry owners to demand arbitration, hire lawyers and vent on the Internet.
Lawyers in Georgia and Florida have been gathering steam to seek class-action status for a planned lawsuit against Toyota.
Marketing experts say Toyota's decision is an example of how persuasive the Internet can be.
Lets see how Mazda handles the rust and staining problem on 2003 Mazda6s, will they acknowledge the problem and compensate the owners, or take a page from Ford's book and argue the "quality is job one" PR nonsense?
But I have to say that I find it disturbing that Mazda 6 built in NA have this rusting issue at all when ones built in Japan don't. I'd be very hesitant to buy and NA-built 6 (sedan, hatch or wagon) until I'm sure they've solved the root cause.
THOUSANDS? Care to list?
BTW, those 3.5 million cars which are affected by just one problem of that caliber is easily worth of thousands much smaller Ford problems.
Last weak it was -25 degree celcius and the car would not start. The battery wasn't providing the necessary power to the starter to start the engine even if the car is new. We had to boost it.
I have a 2002 Elantra, which is supposed to be the worst car on earth according to what I read on the Mazda 3 vs Elantra discussion, and it started without hesitation. If only mazda had put a stronger battery this problem would have never happen.
Why don't they use stronger batteries in car delivered in Canada ? Our winter is a lot worst than in the northern states of the US. The price difference between an average battery and a good battery is so small, I just don't understand their decision.
well guess what happened today?? yep. no start. cranks as slow or slower than it did before. i know, your thinking charging system right? they say they checked that. so.......i call the mazda dealer today (again, me and service mgr are on first name basis now) and i say "well, i was right. you were wrong. car wont start. mazda roadside assistance is towing it in today".
then, the *!#%@ service manager has the balls to shake me down about cold weather starting procedure. "did you crank the engine until it fired?" my reply, "i could crank the engine for about 35 seconds and then my battery would be dead". "well, if you stop cranking too early, you will flood the engine. its in the owners manual". [non-permissible content removed], you think this is the first car i have had to start in a mn winter?? "im telling you this new battery you just installed, doesnt crank any harder/faster than the one you replaced".
service manager also gave me some song and dance about how the engine is tight. so it will crank harder. soooooo...with that reasoning then most new car owners aren't able to start their cars in the winter. pffffffttt!!
i am very p.o'd about this (as i watch my neighbors in blazers, grand prixs, navigators start their cars and drive away). i am calling mazda usa.
The replacement battery they gave you may have been sitting around uncharged for a while. Retailers of car batteries should charge them every now and then, but I bet most don't
Like all rechargeables, they drain (even w/o a load) in a matter of weeks to months. Once a lead-acid battery is dead, it stays dead. It won't hold a charge for long and it won't have nearly the CCA it's supposed to have.
The occasional bad one gets in too. If it's a "service-free" type, there may be a crack in the casing, allowing the water in the cell to evaporate, causing premature death of the cell. There are many ways for car batteries to fail.
So, if you've ever drained your battery (by leaving a light on etc.), then you should really replace it.
Even the best of car batteries don't last beyond 5 years. I'd say most go between 3 and 4 years of use before needing replacement, especially up north. I replace mine every 4, and I garage my car, so it has at least one "warm" start during winter days.
If you bought it recently, if the car sits on the lot for too long, maybe (just speculation) the car will have a hard time to start???
Dinu
seems the battery is fine. put car in the garage tointe and girlfriends van is on the driveway. we will see but if you ask me this is rediculous. i have roadside assitance, though it took them 6 hours to show up today.
Unfortunately, it was the first time I listened to a sales rep and it was a mistake. I should have pushed harder for the block heater during the negotiation.
Now we got one installed for $160 cnd and the car always starts even at -35. It was the last time I follow the advice of a sales rep, I learned the hard way waiting for the tow truck for 7 hours.
Anyone have similar ones?
1) Faulty CD-player (skipped over tiny road bumps);
2) Morning/cold-start engine "rumbling/buzzing" (sounds like a diesel) at low RPMs during start-up and low-speed driving; [dealer replaced engine delay valve and catalytic convertor and reprogrammed PCM]; problem has returned! (Any ideas or new fixes?);
3) Rear, center seatbelt retracted sluggishly;
4) driver-door weather-stripping loose at top;
5) 3 strut cartridges are leaking a little oil above spring seat; dealer states it is normal;
6) windshield wipers flutter/lift at speeds above 75MPH; (Any ideas/fixes?)
7) Engine whines between about 65-75 MPH cruising; (Any ideas/fixes?);
My warranty runs out in a couple weeks. Still a VERY GREAT car... all faulty parts were replaced by my dealer... but some issues they couldn't quite reproduce/pinpoint.
Thanks, Martin
#2- Yes, check for a TSB - mention engine pinging on a cold start (reprogram ECU)to your dealer
#3-#6 - no clue
#7 - Ask dealer to check for weatherstripping around the windshiled - at that speed a whine/whistle-type noise sometimes appeared on 01 PROs - quick dealer fix - however this is NOT coming from the engine as far as I know. Maybe you have a different issue???
Dinu
1. Brakes- no odor, smoke or excessive heat around the wheel area.
2. Belts- serpentine belt appeared to be fine.
3. Coolant- adequate coolant and no engine light, though the radiator was plenty hot.
4. Oil- fine.
5. No obvious indication of what is causing the smell in the engine compartment, though the smell appeared to be strongest in that area.
Any ideas in what else I should check? Weather was very cold and then warmed up and rained, then temp. dropped slightly below freezing and started snowing again. My suspicion was that something became wet, then froze and caused the problem. Like the rear brakes or a belt.
Ideas?
Never would have thought of the plastic bag possiblity.
Thanks.
Component Description:
5. ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:EXHAUST SYSTEM
NHTSA Number:
354263
Bulletin Number:
0102902
Bulletin Date:
NOV 2002
Vehicle: 2003 Mazda Protege
Summary:
SULFUR SMELL FROM EXHAUST SYSTEM. *TT
Thanks
Dinu
Make:
MAZDA
Model:
PROTEGE
Year:
2001
Service Bulletin Number:
00700
NHTSA Item Number:
614124
Summary Description:
SOME CUSTOMERS MAY STATE THAT THEIR CIGARETTE LIGHTER DOES NOT WORK OR STAY IN POSITION. *TT
I knew where it was, but didn't bother to copy it down. Yes, lazy me
Dinu
Greg
Thanks,
Martin
P0455 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak/no flow).
I was told today that my 1999 ES most likely has a bad intake gasket. Do I have to get it replaced soon? They asked for $311 plus diagnosis for $90. Is this a fair quote?
Took my Protege to the dealer for an oil change and also asked him to check a vibration sound I was getting when the car goes on rough roads or potholes(the sound also comes while accelerating at 2,500 rpm)
Dealer said :
1.
The radiator is leaking coolant and must be replaced ($500)
He said that if I don't do this, the motor may sieze. Is this true ?
2.
The vibration sound in the front is because of the front sway links and they need to be replaced.
Luckily my car is under warranty for the next few weeks and that will cover everything.
I plan to get it done next week.
Any idea what is the "front sway links" ?
Thanks.