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Comments
Meade
With the AT, which uses a torque converter, once you're in the O/D gear, there's also a point beyond which the torque converter is locked (not allowed to slip, like it usually does), which improves fuel economy further. This is engaged above a certain speed (around 45mph, I think) and below a threshold torque (to prevent damage to drivetrain components). You can feel the change, if you pay attention. It's like a very soft shift into what feels like a fifth gear, even though the transmission has only four. If you turn the O/D off, then you prevent the transmission from also engaging the torque converter lockup.
Good luck --
Meade
If any of you have leads on this part (and the bolts), I'm all ears.
1. Header Pipe
2. Catalytic converter
3. Muffler pipe
4. Muffler
The car idles great. It has no power, and at 4000 rpm, the power fluctuates and rocks the car forward and reverse. When cold, hitting the gas will bring up RPM to about 2k and then it quickly drops to a stall.
There are no trouble codes in the computer which makes this even more difficult to figure out. My mechanic said that he hooked my car up to a machine that bypassed my fuel delivery system to make sure it wasn't the fuel, fuel pump or filter, and it still exhibited the same problem. He checked the intake, plugs, exhaust, cylinder compression. Everything was fine. Anyone have any suggestions?
I forgot to ask if he checked for vacuum leaks. I am going to check this tonight with a can of starter fluid and a fire extinguisher...
A few things come to mind. Could it be the fuel injection/distributor timing position? If it was worked on in the past and not set back correctly, it might give you the symptoms you mentioned.
Also, when was the timing belt last changed? Did your mechanic verify the tensioner and idler?
Being a poor college student, I can't run out to the mechanic and spend a ton of money on getting fixes. The check engine light will turn on, and just as I'm about to say, "All right, it's been on long enough, time for a mechanic" it will turn off. So that's not my main concern.
The first of the two problems, I'm 90% positive, has to do with and exhaust leak. The car recently become ten-times louder when I'm driving it, unless I'm not giving it gas, in which case it's as quiet as it normally is. Is this normal of exhaust leaks or is it a different problem?
The second is that, whenever I come to a stop, the RPMs nearly bottom out and stall. I got the car used, and it's done it for a while. I plan on changing out the fuel pump/filters to see if that helps at all, but I was wondering if anyone else could recommend what the problem might be. It also idles very low once the engine has warmed up to normal temps. Any advice would be greatly greatly appreciated.
Oil change every 4k - 5k with synthetic. It was happening slightly when cold for about a month before it got really noticable. It got really bad the morning that my battery died when I tried to start my car after getting gas. When I replaced my battery, the car never drove the same again. I thought at first that I got some bad gas. The problem however never went away after many tanks of gas.
I'll get my hands on a timing gun and check it out. In fact, I'll give my mechanic a call and ask him. Thanks.
Osha
Some other things that can cause low or irregular idle: failing mass airflow sensor, clogged exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve, clogged PCV (crankcase ventilation) valve. Also check the plugs, plug wires, ignition coils, distributor. Check for any loose hoses as well. A vacuum hose off the top of my throttle body came lose and caused my '99LX to idle roughly. I put a cable tie around it to fasten it more securely to its attachment point.
Anyway, before I bought it I had researched the known TSBs for this model year and sure enough this car did indeed have a few of these issues. The door key locks were missing the flaps, which doesn't bother me, but the driver door lock has to be pushed and pulled manually to work. The remote and interior switch will lock and unlock the other 3 doors and you can see it trying on the drivers door, but unsuccessfully. Any ideas as to where to locate the TSB printout for this issue?
I think she'll freakout when she sees this car, because I had been shopping higher mileage Prisms, older Corolas and Altimas before stumbling across this original owned LX (with all the maintenance records) . And the tilting/sliding moonroof is a feature I wouldn't necessarily look for, but this LX had it, so I'm not complaining. I just hope it doesn't leak later in its life.
Anyway, I'm a diehard Honda fan giving the Protege it's due.
I have a 2002 Protege ES with just over 31,400 miles on it. A few days ago I noticed a high pitched squeak, but it is not constant. Here is what I have observed.
1) The squeak won't appear until after about 15-20 minutes of driving.
2) The squeak is periodic and increases how frequently it occurs with speed.
3) The squeak goes away anytime I apply brakes.
4) The squeak seems to be worse after going over bumps.
Can anyone help me diagnose what this problem is, or is it best to just take it to someone to look at it? Thanks for any and all help!
Good luck and let us know what happens.
(by the way, at my 30000 checkup they did say it looked like the pads were worn and asked me if i wanted to replace them)
Taking off the driver's door panel is fairly easy. There are sites that show how this is done (for replacing the stock speakers in the front doors). I posted a text-only message on the Protege Accessories and Modifications board a long while back (msg #272) on how to remove the front door panels (based on my '99 ProLX). It took me about 45 minutes the first time. I could probably do it in about 15 minutes now that I know what I'm doing.
Once this is removed, you can probably see whether or not the mechanical linkage from the power lock mechanism is OK or broken. If it's OK, I'd suspect the power mechanism needs to be replaced. If not, try to fix it (something probably came loose) and see if it works.
Alcan is right. Otherwise, if you wait long enough you will also have to have your brake rotors machined (machine=grind smooth) or replaced. At this stage, possibly your rotors are getting etched / scratched each time you apply the brakes.
In the TV autoshow Autotalk the host, Kirk Robinson, mentioned that for many cars the decision to either machine (grind) current rotors versus buying new rotors is now easier since the cost for either is so similar; in most cases, he recommends new rotors.
Also, are you the sole driver of this car? You may want to consider your driving/braking style to see if you can extend the life of your brakes.
Alia
That or you've got the car out of gear!
Meade
Thanks
C'mon -- don't you have an OWNER'S MANUAL??? (It's that little book in the glovebox.)
Meade
Your car may be 11 years old, but it's got the steering wheel, seats and keys, right? Tire jack and lug nut wrench too? OK then. Where's the manual? Isn't it in the glovebox where it's supposed to be?
If you really can't find the manual, go to your Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, Pep Boys or whatever and buy the Haynes manual (Chiltons makes them too; Haynes are better) for your car. It'll have all that stuff in it too, as well as a lot of info on how to fix your car. At 11 years old, that Haynes manual is probably a very good investment.
Meade
Horn relay: same block, next to #18 30A fan fuse
Box cover should be labelled.
Meade
How can I remove them or is taking the vehicle to the detailing guys the only resort?
So did you have the coil pack recall done? That did apply to '99s and '00s with the 1.8L.
Meade
Paul