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Comments
Meade
thank you mazdafun
can you tell me how to clean the throttle body ?
Meade
Remove the air intake ducting, hve someone hold the throttle wide open, spray in a liberal amount of air intake cleaner (NOT carb cleaner), scrub the bejeepers out of the bore and throttle plate including the backside of the plate with an old toothbrush, use clean wipers to clean up the residue. Done.
I have a 1999 protege with 75K miles. My wife drove the car all day no problems. We get in the car this morning back out of the garage, put it in drive and step on the gas and nothing. The car will not move. If you rev the car to around 2500 RPM it will just roll back into the garage. Also the overdrive light is blinking. Any ideas what could be wrong??
Thanks
Bob
Any ideas???
I had a 1990 Protege that I loved...it lasted for 11 years. When it finally went to auto heaven, I bought a 2000 ES and have had multiple problems: radiator needed to be replaced after 2 years, fortunately covered by warranty; after 3 years and about 56,000 miles, found out the front struts were leaking--not covered by warranty; 1 week after I made my last payment and the warranty expired, the transmission died (at about 65000 miles) and of course I had to pay out of pocket for that repair. I've been most dissatisfied with this car overall, quite a difference from my first one.
Here's my big question: for the past 2.5 years, I've had a grinding/scraping noise that comes from the right front wheel and occurs as I'm coming to a stop and I have my foot on the brake. It's been seen by multiple Mazda and non-Mazda mechanics who can't seem to find the cause. I've had wheel bearings replaced, brakes replaced, rotors redone, etc etc and all to no avail. It has cost me several thousand dollars in car repairs and car rentals (not to mention the hours of time bringing the car to be serviced and picking up/returning rentals...and time is what I can least afford to be wasting now) and the noise keeps coming back, sometimes after several weeks or months, sometimes within hours of driving away from the auto service site. People keep telling me its safe to drive, but if no one knows what's causing the noise, how can anyone be so certain it's safe?! Can you tell I've just about had it with this car? I'm about ready to trade it in for another make of car. You all are my last resort. Any thoughts/ideas/advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Sorry to hear of your travails!
Did you buy the car new?
When you say brakes replaced, what specifically did that include? Do you mean brake pads or more than that? Were the rotors turned or replaced?
I had a similar noise on my '89 323, and it was due to rust on one rotor gathering due to a brake caliper freezing (enough that it limited travel of the caliper, which also reduced braking capability) due to rust around the brake's piston. Amazing what can freeze together when you don't drive a car often enough (I had a rear brake drum also freeze...I managed to break it free by driving back and forth until the caked dust inside the drum broke apart).
Also, can a passenger confirm the noise comes from the front-right? I've had noises that seemed to come from one corner that actually came from another due to the way noise moves around in the car.
When you say brakes replaced, what specifically did that include? Do you mean brake pads or more than that? Were the rotors turned or replaced?
Assuming the brake system is entirely checked out, also investigate your CV joints.
I had a similar noise on my '89 323, and it was due to rust on one rotor gathering due to a brake caliper freezing (enough that it limited travel of the caliper, which also reduced braking capability) due to rust around the brake's piston. Amazing what can freeze together when you don't drive a car often enough (I had a rear brake drum also freeze...I managed to break it free by driving back and forth until the caked dust inside the drum broke apart).
Also, can a passenger confirm the noise comes from the front-right? I've had noises that seemed to come from one corner that actually came from another due to the way noise moves around in the car.
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Yes to all of the above: the car was bought new. I've had the brakes pads and the entire brake system replaced. The rotors have been turned, then replaced.
The CV joints have been checked. And yes the noise comes from the right front, confirmed by mechanics and nonmechanics alike (this has been a 2 1/2 year journey!).
There has been some conjecture that the noise might be caused by dirt within the brakes that needs to be cleaned occasionally, but even when that is done the noise returns.
Anyone have any ideas as to what broke? (Besides me becoming broke since I now have a tow charge and repair bill coming my way.)
Why do you have a repair bill coming? Unlike Ford, your Protege has a 4 year/50,000-mile bumper-to-bumper warranty. According to what you said, your car is only three years old and still has 5,000 miles left on its warranty anyway.
But never mind the warranty. This doesn't sound like anything more than a no-brainer that you can do yourself:
My guess is your battery cables are loose or corroded. Remove them, clean off the battery terminals and the connectors, and you should be good to go. Yes, it just may be that simple. Nothing else would explain why your lights aren't working even though your battery is fully charged -- and the intermittent odometer display sure makes it look like an intermittent battery connection.
Meade
The 2002's have a 3 year 50 K warranty...
... depending on when you bought it. If you bought your 2002 prior to May, then yes, you're right. If you bought it in June or after, it's a four-year warranty.
In any case, I still think your problem is a minor one, however. Do keep us informed.
Meade
I think Mazda pads are semi-metallic. At least the new ones I ordered looked semi-metallic to me.
If anyone buys the cap and rotor from AutoZone, be aware that they have the wrong parts listed in their computer for the '95-'98 models. I found the correct match at O'Reilly Auto parts using Borg Warner components. Advanced Auto Parts had the best price for the Bosch spark plug wires, but since they wern't in stock I got them from Rock Auto much sooner for just a few dollars more.
Spending $60 every 30,000 miles on a new set of plug wires is good insurance -- and it'll make your engine run more smoothly and last longer.
Replace those plug wires!
Meade
P.S. If you're looking for a good match, try the parts department at your Mazda dealer. When I last replaced mine (about a year ago), they were about $45 for a questionable set from NAPA -- which I wound up having to return because the connectors were the wrong kind (even though they were the correct part number for my car) -- or $60 for an OEM set from Mazda. I opted to spend $15 over 30K miles for the real deal. And the ones from Mazda carry a 12-month, 12,000-mile warranty.
As far as price, Advanced Auto had the Bosch #09421 wire set for $22 + $5 shipping if not in warehouse and Rock Auto was $31.90 including shipping.
I have a 2001 Protege and the audio system is broken. Now I have a Cd player deck and need a car audio installation kit for protege?
Do you know where I can find one?
Thanks,
B.Insel
We have two 2000 Proteges, mine is a 2000 1.6L 5-speed that is flawless (probably because it doesn't see winter and does an average of 7000 kms a year.) I'm hoping to run this car for another ten years.
The other is a 2000 1.8L automatic that is used year-round for average use. Lately, we have had some problems with this car related to steering and starting. The steering gives off a very loud creaking sound when you turn the wheels. Our mechanic couldn't find the source without tearing the steering apart, but suspects that is is from a bushing. Anyone have this problem as well? Also, the engine takes a good five seconds to start after it has been sitting for a while. I suspect a weak battery (its the original) but I just wanted to throw it out there for anyone else.
Meade
Solution: Take the car to your dealership or a good mechanic. NOW.
It's not just an "e-brake" light. It's a brake system warning light.
Meade
thanks
RFisher
http://protege5.ugly.net/
... And I'll bet you find what you need here:
http://protege5.ugly.net/07-40.PDF
Meade
Now, two weeks later the brakes are squealing (which means we will need new brakes-UG!!) and there is a scraping sound coming from the engine with acceleration between 0 and 80 km/h. Anything over that (highway driving) it's fine. I also revved the engine in park, and reproduced the scraping sound. It's coming from the front under the hood. I lifted the hood and couldn't find anything obvious that was loose. It's gotten a lot worse in the last three days.
Any idea what it could be? We really are BROKE from buying this car, and can't afford serious repairs if we can help it. Can anyone point me in a direction to look? I'm more familiar with older cars (80's) and their repair. I don't know as much about newer cars.
Anything ANYONE could suggest would be great!
Is that 78K km (50K miles) or 78K miles?
Is it a manual or automatic?
Did you mention this problem to the mechanic who assured you that it was in perfect condition?
It's automatic, and it didn't have this sound at the time it was looked at by the mechanic. I don't know the mechanic that did it. The car was at a non-Mazda delearship, so we took it to a Mazda dealership nearby for a check up before buying it. Should I take it back to them? There's no warrenty for such check-ups though...so I don't think they will be able to do anything.
I would ask your dealership: "When I brought my car in two weeks ago you checked it and said there's no problem. How do you explain the scraping sound?" Normally, dealers are reasonable especially if they see you as a potential customer. Let them know that you were hoping to use their services in the future.
p.s. Congratulations on the car, you should get years of great rides out of it!
Meade
I own a 2000 Mazda Protege SE, and me being a poor university student I can't quite afford a trip to the mechanic with every little problem (especially with these insane insurance and gas prices). Recently my centre break light burned out, and I want to replace it (I've done bulb replacement, and other mods before) simply because I don't want to pay $15 to a mechanic for a 30 second job. However the solution to removing the bulb from its housing simply eludes me. If anyone can help me, it'll be greatly appreciated.
Also, whenever the door panels switch works, it does not operate all four doors. Works pretty randomly. Sometimes opens/closes 2 doors some all 4.
I checked and changed the battery on the remote. Did not help. The dealer is asking $100.00 to diagnose the problem.
Does anybody have any experience with this?
can someone please help me!
can someone please help me!
can someone please help me!
can someone please help me!