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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Some possibilities include: vacuum hose leak, cracked or torn PCV valve rubber grommet, or maybe a small crack in the exhaust manifold.
  • hboydhboyd Member Posts: 98
    No... chances are close to NONE that you need a new ATX! Don't let the stealerships fool you. Go to a reputable, independant local ATX repair shop. Get a referral from a friend or AAA-approved garage. I got a shop to read the PCM/TCM DTCs for me using a pro OBD II scanner (Snap-on Redbox). Mazda dealer will do it too for 2x $$. GET the DTC number!! Critical for diagnosis. Then you or your mechanic can troubleshoot the solenoids effectively. It's a cinch with a multi-tester from RadioShack.

    BTW, there is only ONE Shift 'E' solenoid on our ATXs! But you will have ONE of three Shift 'E' DTCs: P0771, P0772 or P0773. Without going into great detail, P0771 and P0772 lead to control valve assembly problems -- a moderate repair operation. P0773 is an "easy" one -- bad electrical on the Shift 'E' solenoid. More than likely its a dead solenoid (that's what happened in my case). Easy to pull and replace during a routine ATX service where the pan is dropped. OEM part is about $75 discounted (f/Montgomery Mazda in Charlotte, NC -- simply awesome parts service and advice via website arm). Recommend doing a complete ATX service at same time.

    Check ATX fluid level and condition first! If fluid is dirty, it may have contributed to problem. Above all, many Mazda dealerships don't do ATX repairs anymore. They simply change out the ATX. Get the code and we'll go from there. The approx. repair costs are about $150 for OEM parts/fluid and about 2 hours of mechanical labor (say $85/hour = $170). I did my repair myself... but had loads of time and an extra vehicle to use while the car was on stands in the garage all week.
  • hboydhboyd Member Posts: 98
    More than likely, it's the dreaded "stuck open" EGR code and issue plaging our Proteges. Get the DTC code read ASAP. Here is a Mazda M-tip that may be applicable:

    ROUGH IDLE - DTC P0300, EGR VALVE STICKING OPEN
    Applicable Models
    2001 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
    2002 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
    2003 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
    Symptoms
    020 ENGINE HARD START
    030 ROUGH IDLE
    050 ENG. STALLS DRVING-WILL RESTART
    620 DOES NOT TURN OFF/WARNING LIGHT
    MTOL - 4166 Dealer Repair Information
    Symptoms and Conditions
    Some customers may experience an intermittent or constant rough idle
    with MIL illumination and DTC P0300 and/or P0401 being stored in memory.

    This condition may be the result of rust accumulation on the EGR valve shaft causing the valve stick open. A shield has been added to the valve's body to prevent reoccurrence of this condition.

    Repair Procedure
    When you encounter a vehicle with this concern inspect the EGR valve for this condition and if necessary replace the valve with the improved part.

    EGR VALVE Part No. FSY1-20-300-9U
    Gasket Part No. JE27-20-305A

    -- FYI: the EGR valve can also be cleaned thoroughly with carbon cleaner and reinstalled. If vehicle is under warranty, get dealership to perform this check and necessary replacement. Could also be dirty/sticking IAC solenoid assembly. I had both cleaned on my 2001 2.0 ES and solved a rough idling/near stall condition. Give me more details.
  • hboydhboyd Member Posts: 98
    P0402 = EGR Flow excessive detected

    Chances are more than anything that it may be a bad seal between the EGR assembly and intake manifold. Probably a bad metal gasket or mechanic failed to adequately tighten unit/re-install gasket. This is critical to get a proper seal. These are the first things to check as per workshop manual. Was the EGR spring valve fully inspected for proper mechanical operation and lubed? Was EGR solenoid electrical resistance checked? Don't replace any parts until deemed failed or impractical to repair!
  • civiletticiviletti Member Posts: 86
    It could be the serpentine belt or one of the components driven by it. Rig up a stethoscope [rubber tube, perhaps] and see if you can localize the sound. Be careful, though!
  • gemeni71gemeni71 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2003 lx, the light was working fine and now it's gone. Taking it in to see? Any solution to yours.
  • hboydhboyd Member Posts: 98
    For anybody with a rough/rolling idle issue, inspect and clean your IAC (Idle Air Control) valve solenoid assembly. You only have to remove two, tamper-resistant T-25 screws on top of the IAC valve solenoid. The bypass valve plunger gets a lot of carbon build-up and sticks to the body. I carefully cleaned mine with some Deep Creep and did a SeaFoam intake treatment. Smoothed out the idle very well. May not solve all idle issues, but worked on my 2.0L w/68K. [I also changed plugs to OEM NGK V-Power and inspected/cleaned EGR.] I wouldn't waste my money on expensive, unnecessary, often over-pushed Mazda dealer services if you're off warranty.
  • porstechporstech Member Posts: 1
    sounds like your lower control arm bushings are broken or you have a broken motor mount
  • ja25caja25ca Member Posts: 1
    I'm pretty sure this is the problem the check engine light is on and this is the code. How hard is it to replace the EGR valve on a 97 mazda protege. I'd like to know if there are any tricks or special tools to get the existing off and put the new one on correctly. Should I get the gasket as well? It looks like two bolts and it should slip right off, but on the mount between the plug for the electrical and the housing that fits into the engine there appear to be 4 screws. Do these need to come off to get the EGR out?

    I'm a non-mechanic, but am handy. About how long should it take me worst case.

    Thanks,
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    This is pretty easy to do. I replaced mine on my '95 Protege as the new part was only around $75. The old one was clogged up with carbon deposits. I used some swivel attachments for my ratchet and sockets to get the nuts off. I don't remember buying a seperate gasket, but it has been several years. The replacement part for my '95 1.5L was Borg Warner EGR1122.

    I suppose you could carefully clean the old one out and put it back in if the replacement part is really expensive.

    You are also supposed to clean out any ports when doing an EGR job. This is actually hard to do given the location of the EGR valve behind the intake manifold. I did the best I could with a small rag, an old toothbrush, and some solvent.

    You can also get some auto shops to clean out the EGR valve and the port with a chemical cleaner. Ideally, this should be done every 30K-50K miles before the carbon buildup is heavy and tough to remove.

    194K miles and still running great!
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    I had a similiar problem with my Protege..."O/D Off" light
    followed by the transmission shifting abruptly into 2nd gear. This would happen every 5 minutes or so, especially with a cold engine, strangely enough. When warm, it would do it every 15 min. or so. I let this go on for 2 weeks before taking it into a transmission shop. The manager said he would do a scan, and within 15 min. told me I needed a new tranny. I took it somewhere else for a 2nd opinion, and this time requested a printout with the scan ( it was free either way, so.) Anyways, turned out to be a Throttle-Position Sensor, which caused about $ 200.00 including labour to fix. No problems since.
    By the way, I've got a 2000 Protege with 480,000km. Runs like new!
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 16,414
    The bolt that holds down my the heat shield on my wife's '00 Protege ES has completely rotted around the head and causes the heat shield to rattle at idle and low speeds. Is it worth replacing this or should I just leave it be? Is there a quick fix for it? The car has 71,000 miles and my wife drives it back and forth to the train station every day plus for some errands around town.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD

  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I've got a 2000 Protege with 480,000km. Runs like new!
    Wow! Is this the original tranny? If so, I would contact Mazda and let them know you've got one heck of a specimen, they may feature you in a news bulletin and give you something in appreciation. And let the rest of us know how you got nearly half a million kilometres out of your car; we're all ears!
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    I assume you mean the heat shield for the exhaust manifold? This shield is necessary because it protects the small electric motors on the radiator fans from getting too hot and failing.

    How do I know this? Because I removed the heat shield after replacing a cracked exhaust manifold and shortly thereafter the secondary radiator fan started to fail. So I replaced the secondary fan with a new one and then put the heat shield back on.

    Live and Learn!
  • sreidsreid Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 protege with a major water leak. A substantial amount of water is pooling on the passenger side floor. I have been experimenting with a hoze and my guess is that the water is coming in around the air intake under the windshield. The majority of the water seems to be dripping onto the floor from the fan box under the dash. Has anybody had similar problems?? Any advice??
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Have you had any work done on your windshield? What does the area around the perimeter of the windshield look like? Does the surface have any bubbles appearing in the metal? If so, rust might have set in and the water may be leaking through a hole there. It's difficult to see directly because it is likely covered by the windshield gasket (i.e. the thing holding the windshield in place); what the bubbles show is that there may be a "hidden" problem.
  • sreidsreid Member Posts: 2
    I already had a guy at apple auto glass have a look at the windshield, he said there's no problem with it. There is far too much water getting in for it to be the windshild anyway.
    I took the plastic grille beneath the window off and put the hoze in the gutter there, water was still coming in.
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    Yes everything is original (engine, tranny, exhaust, etc.),with the exception of the timing belt ( changed at 250K for precautionary), and the rad, which I changed at 400K, probably due to a lot of city driving,stop& go traffic. I do 80K - 100K per year, and about half is on the highway.
    No secret- just do my own regular maintenance: oil/filter once a month, tranny oil every 4 months, or 30K, spark plugs, air filter, and front pads twice a year, and coolant every year.
    Actually, my previous vehicle, '93 B2200 ( the last REAL Mazda pickup) I sold at 685,000 km. Dealer offered $500, but I sold it privately for $ 1500. On that vehicle I changed the clutch once, at 450K, and the timing belt once, at 505K ( engine was the "non-destructive" type, i.e.,won't harm anything if belt breaks while engine on).
    Does anyone know if the Protege's engine is also the "non-destructive" type?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Yes, it's the non-interference type.
  • xtine0303xtine0303 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a second hand 1996 mazda protege (manual transmission) last november from a private seller. Since then the car was driving smoothly and i already did 2 oil changes.
    Then last week, i noticed that the car began to "stutter" whenever i accelerate from 1st gear to 2nd gear to 3rd gear. I tried reading some articles/posts regarding such problem and most of them indicates that there is a problem with the fuel system (like filter/injector clogged, regulator problem, oxygen sensor problem or the worst case is fuel pump is already worn out).

    At the moment, I'm assuming its just a clogging filter/injector. If so, there are two possible solutions:
    a. use a fuel system cleaner (like Techron or STP)
    b. have the fuel system flushed and replace fuel filter

    My questions are:
    1. is it effective to use a fuel system cleaner like Techron/STP? will it not damage the car's engine or fuel system?
    2. which cleaner brand is the most effective?
    3. if i decide to have it flushed instead, can you recommend car shops (around the san bernardino, CA county) who can provide a good/honest service without overpricing?

    thanks in advance!
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    1. is it effective to use a fuel system cleaner like Techron/STP? will it not damage the car's engine or fuel system?

    In Autotalk, a local tv show here in Canada devoted to automobile care, this very question came up and the answer offered by the three auto experts was: it will not do any harm but neither will it do much good (apart from giving you a sense of relief that you have done something); the reason: these "bottled" cleaners have a very low level of detergent. The experts noted that many gasolines come with a detergent already that does the job to a certain degree; but if you need to get it done right you need to bring it into the shop to get it done professionally.

    p.s. the cleaning service I hear recommended more often is for the throttle body (also called a motorvac). This gets gummed up over the years and requires a solvent to clean a flap that may not be opening and closing properly.
  • falken205falken205 Member Posts: 1
    where is the EGR located exactly? i know it's near the throttle body.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    On my '95 it is located right behind and underneath the intake manifold (which it connects into) near the center. It has an electrical clip on top that is very visible. The top of the EGR valve is round, metal, and disk looking. The Haynes repair manual has a good diagram.
  • protocrapprotocrap Member Posts: 1
    Do you have any more info on this? My 2000 protege has started downshifting on the freeway and the o/d light blinks. My mechanic has read a bunch of tech bulletins and is guessing it is the speed sensor sending false date to the atx about how fast the care is going, thus the downshifts. It's going to cost me just shy of $400 to see if his guess is right.
  • harbihoharbiho Member Posts: 8
    Hi......first post here.

    A few months ago, I bought my 99 LX (1.6L) from the original owner who mentioned that when the weather gets hot, the car won't start after being driven for more than 15 minutes.

    Since it has been a relatively cool winter, I din't experience it until the other day...... 80+ degrees outside and I took it on an 80 mile trip. When I got to my destination, I shut off the ignition for about 30 minutes or so. When it was time to leave, it would crank over but not fire up. I had to pump on the gas a few times before it finally did.

    On the way home, I hit traffic. After about 20 minutes of stop and go, I noticed the temp gauge go up to about 3/4 and my engine started stumbling. I finally pulled in to a parking lot where I attempted to fire it up to no avail. So I let it cool down for another 20 minutes or so and it finally did. I then just sprinted it home and while moving, the temp gauge never went past the normal <1/2.

    I suspect that I have a faulty Coolant Temperature sensor; but I am stumped as to why the temperature would creep up like that. Maybe it thinks it is running hotter than it really is....thus leaing out the mixture = heating up the engine.

    The fans seem to be working though.

    Can someone help me on this?
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    You don't mention if you've ever changed the coolant, or if the thermostat is okay. Assuming that's the case, does it overheat on the highway? If not, then your rad and coolant and thermostat should not be a problem.
    If it's only during stop and go traffic, I'd say it's your fans. You can check the driver-side fan by lifting the hood, turn on the A/C, and that fan will go on automatically. The other fan is secondary, and will go on at certain temperatures. If neither go on you could check the fuses in the engine compartment. And finally, you could check each fan by removing them and test them (with wires attached to the battery- maybe someone else could explain better). You should be able to find used ones 10 times cheaper than new ones.Very easy to install.
    You say you're not sure if it's a sensor- does the coolant seem hot, and does it over-fill into the reservoir? If so, then the car is overheating.
    My best guess is that your rad is reaching the end of the line, and one of your fans is starting to burn out.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Surprisingly, a new secondary radiatior fan from a Mazda dealer was only $60 including home delivery. It is easy to replace too, if this is part of your problem.
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    Could be same problem I had.
    I've got a 2000 Protege 1.6 ltr. On the highway driving at 100 km/hr, it would suddenly shift into 3rd gear, and the "O/D Off" light would start flashing. Pressing the O/D button would not change anything. I would have to bring the vehicle to almost a full stop in order to stop "O/D Off" light from blinking. Then within 15 minutes it would repeat itself.
    I spoke with a few mechanics that informed me that the PCM is simply going into "Safe Mode" when it does that, similiar to a home computer.
    I then went to get a scan- some transmission shops are offering a free reading, but the first one I went to tried to rip me off, by telling me there was something wrong with 2nd and 3rd gears, and that I would need to spend about $ 2,000.00 in repairs. I got suspicious when he said he'd do it cheaper if I paid cash.
    I then got a second opinion and it turned out to be the Throttle Position Sensor. It cost me $100 for the sensor and $ 60 for labour. Although after watching the mechanic, I could have easily have done the job myself, I was just happy to save thousands.
    I've had no problems since.
    If possible, when you get the scan done, try to get a print out.
  • harbihoharbiho Member Posts: 8
    Thanks!

    I checked the paperwork and the coolant was changed but over a year ago.

    The temperature seems to be just fine when I drive it on the freeway. It just started to creep up on stop and go.

    Checked the fans and they seem to be working. Both with the AC on and when the engine reaches temp.

    I plan to have the radiator checked soon. Maybe have it pressure checked or something. We'll see.

    I do wonder why the no-start condition though. I don't see the coolant reservoir overfill at all. :cry:
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    Okay, when you're driving on the highway, the fans would make no difference whether they work or not, because you're getting enough cool wind from the speed.
    But if your rad wasn't any good, even on the highway it would over-heat, because the engine is working hard. So the rad is still not totally gone yet.
    The part about the coolant overfilling: Next time the gauge goes higher than 3/4, try pulling over and shutting the car off. When you lift the hood, if it is overheating, you'd see the coolant transfering into the reservoir.
    Also, if the fans are turning, are they going fast enough?
    Or are they just barely turning?
    And, is the problem worse with the A/C on? When you notice the car starting to overheat, turning off the A/C should help.
    I'm not sure about the no-start. I believe the over-heating is contributing to the problem.
  • kayleen007kayleen007 Member Posts: 2
    I just worked on a '98 Mazda Protege. Replaced the brake pads for a friend of mine. I live about an hour away and everything sounded and felt fine when she left. She called later and said that now her brakes are making a grinding noise (the metal on metal sound you would hear if your brake pads are about completely gone). This noise was not evident when she left. I'm going to check it out tomorrow and thought I'd get some opinions before I head out there. Anyone know what might cause it to do that? I know the brake pads are fine...and if anyone told me about that kind of noise brake pads are my first thought. But..since it's not that. Also, I can't be entirely sure it's coming from the brakes since I haven't heard it. Anyway...throw out any and all ideas you guys have. Thanks!!
  • kayleen007kayleen007 Member Posts: 2
    Updated to above. I drove her car this morning, and the grinding noise is constant. It does sound like it's coming from the brake area. When you first start driving you don't hear it, even when braking, if you're going slow. Once you pick up speed, you hear this grinding/scraping noise continually and it gets louder when you brake. I haven't had a chance to look yet as we're both at work. My first thought might be the caliper piston is frozen. Anyway....please any suggestions???
  • bluetoothlessbluetoothless Member Posts: 15
    Found a 2000 Protege LX with 58K miles that appears to be in great shape. I performed a CARFAX search on it and found four entries regarding electrical system needing service. First was at 7K,then 11K, 18K, and 30K. The third, but first private owner was not aware of this history, but admitted to having similar problems to your description. Had it repaired at one dealer, but it re-appeared a week later. They had a relative that managed at a Toyota dealership and a tech drove the car to and from work for a week After a period the symptom presented itself and according to the onboard diagnostics it was the cam sensor. They replaced it for a cost of $174 and the problem has not re appeared. The relative was very confident that the problem was truly resolved. I am considering buying this for my 17 y/o daughter for $5-5.5K and consumer reports ranks it above average for reliability. Any comments?
  • harbihoharbiho Member Posts: 8
    Actually, when it reached up to 3/4, I didn't see any overflow to the reservoir.

    However, when I turned on the ignition (not starting the engine), I noticed that the fans did not turn on. Aren't the fans supposed to go on when I turn on the ignition?

    If so, are the coolant fan switches wired for 2 speeds? Maybe it turns on for the lower temp setting (thus slower fan setting), but does not switch to the high fan speed setting when it should.

    I'll do a complete cooling system revamp......change the fan switch and the engine/fuel injection's coolant temperature sensor, and flush the radiator this week.

    Let's see if that fixes it.
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    I was on another site that had almost the identical problem, except that it was a 1995 model, and the expert first suggested to scan for fault codes; maybe it is the coolant sensor; and also "check rubber air intake boots for cracks".
  • davemacdavemac Member Posts: 1
    My first thought was one of the dust shields was accidentally bent and rubbing rotor. I'm not sure why you don't hear it always. It should be easy to determine if a caliper is hung up as one rotor will be much hotter - and when removing old pads one wheels brakes should have been more worn down then other. Good luck.
  • hboydhboyd Member Posts: 98
    Get the stored DTCs read by a good ATX shop with high-quality equipment (Snap-on) FIRST. Probably the common P0715 code -- Turbine Speed Sensor (TSS) Malfunction. Relax... the part is officially a "Pulse Generator" according to Mazda and senses ATX gear speeds magnetically. Erratic signals may cause unusual shifting behavior. Part costs about $41 discounted online and if you have someone install it for ya (it's a no brainer), 15 minutes labor tops. Always check the DTCs and troubleshoot related connections/wiring.
  • pete79pete79 Member Posts: 4
    Hi!

    I have a mazda protege 1993 SE. I have a similar problem... When I start the car (in cold temp), it runs perfectly. When it almost reaches its optimal temp, and I drive in city (lights/traffic), and shift 1/2/3 or just step on the gas while stopped, the engine stumbles too. This can last for 10 minutes and disapears. But if I do highway (from cold engine to full temp) I feel nothing. Again, the difference in my case is that I can always start the car when its fully heated. The problem seems to be gone in summer (I'm from Quebec), but the stumbling came back when I drove through a big puddle of water even with a hot engine. Can the car be sensitive to humidity? I found out it might be the coolant sensor, just like you guys mention, but in my case, the temp gage doesn't show abnormal temps. Engine light doesn't go on either.
    Any advice??
    Thanks!
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    If it seems sensitive to humidity, or when it's raining out, I would check the ignition wires and/or coil first.
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    I forgot to mention that when I had that problem with the ATX ("O/D off" blinking light and tranny slipping into 3rd gear on the highway ) that the air hose was cracked, so air was leaking through. I have since repaired it and changed the TPS, of course, and everything is running fine, but I'm wondering if the cracked air hose wasn't adding to the problem, or if it maybe was the original cause?
  • mshutemshute Member Posts: 1
    Hello all, recently brought my 99 ES 1.8L to the dealer to check out the A/C since my compressor would not kick in. I was told it was the PCM not sending a ground to the compressor. I'm obviously not going to replace the PCM for $1200 for this but I'm hoping someone can tell me they were diagnosed with this same problem and found an alternate solution. Thanks for any help..
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    You can always try a used PCM.
    Where I live, the auto-wreckers sell PCM's for
    Protege for about $100. They come with a 30 - 90 day
    guarantee. I have replaced used electronics and they
    have worked now for years.
    I'm not familiar with the part, and don't know if you
    can change it yourself or not.
    Just call up every wrecker you can until you find one.
  • creon448creon448 Member Posts: 3
    After having my motor mounts replaced, my transmission failed and needed to be serviced. Since receiving my car from the mechanic, I have noticed that the exhaust note has become very raspy. Moreover, after coming to a complete stop, my car will hesitate breifly when I press the gas. I read on the net that when the transmission is removed for service, that the transmission mounts should be replaced. Is it at all possible that the problems I'm experiencing are related to the transmission mounts?
  • creon448creon448 Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone know the technical explanation of the o/d button?
  • adisaradisar Member Posts: 4
    I have a 99 Protege, with 59K on it.
    Recently, it has started blinking the O/D light once in a while, which goes away if i turn off the engine and turn back on. Shifts are somewhat rough. I can also hear some sort of a noise when shifting in lower gears. Hasnt given any problems on the highway yet - works absolutely fine when running at speeds.
    Having read all messages rgding auto-trannies on proteges, can someone give me a couple of options to diagnose issues for the autotransmission?
    Thanks
  • creon448creon448 Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone know how to safely clean the EGR valve on a 98 Protege?
    I was thinking about adding "SeaFoam", but I would prefer only to apply it to the gas tank and engine oil.
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    Here's a few questions:
    1)Is the check engine light on at all?
    2)Have you scanned the engine for a code?
    3)When the "O/D Off" light is blinking, can you
    get into overdrive, or does it stay in 3rd or 2nd gear?
    4)Is the air hose in good shape- no cracks, or air leaking out?

    Okay, just to give you more info, go to this site:
    protege5.ugly.net/
    Then go into page 15, that's DTC TABLE[FS]...01-02B-15
    If you look across the headings, DTC NO.,Condition,MIL,
    then "O/D off indicator light", follow that down to
    P0122 TP circuit low input, and P0123 TP circuit high
    input, you notice that those both show Flashing, right?
    I was informed by a mechanic that the computer does this
    blinking thing just as a safety mode, possibly to prevent
    bigger damage, and it makes the driver stop the car.
    Your car may possibly be in the early stages.

    By the way, I can't take any credit for that other site I
    mentioned, since someone else mentioned it here first.
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    I forgot a couple of details when you go into that site:

    Look for ENGINE, then ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC [ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEM (FS)], click on 01-02B,

    then go to page 15, DTC TABLE, etc.
  • adisaradisar Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for that sambo4. I did get the OBD test done, and it returned a P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio.
    Can anyone tell me what it means? The mechanic said it will be an electrical problem with a solenoid.
    What are my options in this case? I have an extended warranty on this car.
  • adisaradisar Member Posts: 4
    To reply to your questions:
    1) No check engine light on
    2) P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio code returned
    3) I will have to check if it goes into 2nd or 3rd if OD light is blinking. Till now it has always happened on local roads, so I have immediately pulled over.
    4) The air hose DOES seem to have some cracks in it, and air IS leaking out.
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