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protege5.ugly.net/
then look under: TRANSMISSION/ TRANSAXLE 05
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC, click on 05-02.
Look under DTC PO734, and it tells you to go to
page 30. When you go to page 30, there are 11 possible
causes for that condition, including ATX fluid low,
solenoids may be stuck, etc.
I guess you'll have to go thru the diagnostic procedure.
I don't want to confuse things any further, but the air hose being cracked suggests TP or Speed sensor.
I noticed when I got my scans done, some shops are
better than others. Some places won't pick up all codes.
my protege is having technical difficulties to put it lightly. the car would turn off while driving, I had to jump it 2 times to get it home. I bought a new battery for it, changed the spark plugs, oil...it ran for 3 days and then it wouldn't turn on and the battery was dead.
I was told to check the alternator which I did...3 hours later it had been removed and checked at pep boys, after 2 tests it had passed. today I bought another new battery, new battery cable wires, fuses hoping this might be the solution...if anyone lives in the Philadelphia, Pa area..I make a mean [non-permissible content removed] london broil an baked potatoe and chicken parmesean! *hint hint hint*
Used duct tape to temporarily fix the air-hose. Seems to make quite a difference. Idling smoothly, feel lesser vibrations....need to change the hose soon though. Still need to get the transmission checked.
Thanks for the tip...
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Rough & low with check engine light on I had my egr cleaned out & smoothed out the idle but its still low only at about 500rpm b4 i was at least at 750 or so any suggestions. Thanks in advance.
Also, if you take off the air intake snorkel, it is a good idea to clean off the throttle plate with an old toothbrush, rag, and solvent as it gets covered with black carbon over time.
The second fan doesnt come on, making A/C not so cold. I live in florida, so on a really hot day, the engine overheats with the A/C on.
Technician said pressure sensor is bad and not easily available. Can someone point to aftermarket pressure sensor and/or another solutions
thanks!!!
I removed the fan and tested it, and it does work.
Just connect one wire to each of the battery terminals,
and then the end of those wires into the fan connection.
I didn't know which was plus or minus on the fan, but it's only two choices.
My fuses are okay too.
My next step is to test the wiring harness that goes into the fan.
btw is it pressure switch or temperature switch or both?
i see two sensors near the bubble window on the A/C line,
on left front fender. dont know which one of these to jumper.
can this be replaced at home or does the freon have to come out first?
thanks
"condenser fan relay is stuck"
"short to GND between condenser fan relay and
PCM terminal 45"
"circuit between condenser fan relay and fan motor short to battery supply line"
I have a slightly different problem on my 96 LX. The engine temp goes all the way up to 'H' when the ac is working. I have to shut it down then the temp comes down a bit, but hovers around 3/4 way to the H mark. Coolant is at the right mark. Also, can we check the gas level at home. The AC though seems to be cooling alright. Problem is worst in city traffic. Do u guys think there is a prob with the radiator? There is no leak in it.
Please advise what can be done :sick:
Thanks in advance!
when car is around 50 mph its not a problem bcoz the air hitting the condensor from outside will be enuf to cool it, mostly...
thanks for the trouble-shooting tips...i'll try them out...
http://www.autoshop101.com/trainmodules/relays/101.html
I'm still working on my car.
I don't think the pressure switch is involved, because that switch monitors head pressure and shuts down the compressor if it exceeds a preset limit.
You can also try unplugging the clip from the thermoswitch
located on the thermostat housing. If the fan goes on, then you found your problem. If not, then I still think it's your relay, or a connection problem.
You could switch the condensor fan relay with a similiar relay, (maybe the horn relay ? ) just to test it.
Also, check for corroded relay under the fuse box and support wiring/harness.
I'm not too familiar with '92s, so you may have to
ground the thermoswitch connector, either to chassis or
negative battery terminal.
good luck
I have a 1997 Mazda Protege LX 1.5L
When I first bought the car the seat belt warning light and tone would operate properly when you turned the ignition. Now a few months later the light no longer comes on along with the tone, I saw the connection from the seat belt fastener to the floor of the car under the drivers seat and that is properly inserted, does anyone know what else I could try to look at? I also checked the fuses, they're ok. Another problem is my low fuel light to my knowledge has never worked correctly, is there anyway to check if it's just a bulb out or if the problem is more significant? Thanks!
Kris
mine did similar thing for a month, also started stalling...can get very dangerous bcoz steering locks up on turns...i got the coolant sensor changed, problem gone.
kris
http://members.aol.com/solomiata/MX5Engine.html
The control unit is in the dash and controls the fan and AC position switches and/or cables. Part # BL8F-190D.
This was on a 2002 LX.
http://www.auto-more.com/detail-347331.html
You may need to pressure test the radiator to see if it is leaking. If not, the replacement radiator cap could be bad. If not, you could have a cracked or warped head. I would think that whoever replaced the head gasket would have checked this before doing the work.
I am having the same problem with my Mazda Protoge...were you able to fix the problem? I have not had my idle adjusted because I don't know where it is. If you know how I can do this please let me know.
Thnx
please help me out here.
In my experience it was the strut-mounts that were the
noisest. But I've had to change the stabilizer links as well. The protege's suspension seems to be built more
for handling rather than soft/luxury ride, so you're
always going to have a hard bumpy ride with some noise.
Can you tell if the noise is front or back?
thnx
a bump.
When you changed the struts, I hope they checked the strut-mounts, because they can rust out.
As far as the heating is concerned......it still runs hot after running it for a while during 100+deg weather...like right now. When I turn on the heater, the temperature goes down to normal levels. I notice this while going uphill or when sitting in traffic for a while....all during 100+degree weather.
Radiator maybe? Clogged cat? Anyone?
My first question is when i'm driving and sometimes want/need to quickly accelerate, my car almost feels to get stuck and extremely (let my emphasize "extremely"!) slowly, increases speed and believe it or not, i'll have the gas petal to the floor!! I even tried to release and press the gas again but same thing. It gets really fustrating! My car used to pick up & go very quickly and I have been maintaning it (@ dealership) all this time too... I have had the major tune-up @ 30 & 60k, etc, had fuel injection flushed, and when I have explained the problem prior, they did not find anything wrong.
Second question is sometimes when I am driving on regular roads (yes, smooth roads too), I hear a knocking sound coming from under the car. This doesn't happen when braking or when on the freeway. Any idea what it could be?
Please help! Thank you in advance!!
1. Even though plugs looked good, bought new KGB plugs and gave them proper gap.
2. The spark plug wires each run down a three or four inch plastic sleeve. Sometimes the wire can ride up in the sleeve and not make contact with the plug. I adjusted all of these to make sure that when the sleeve snapped into place that the wire was firmly on the plug.
3. Changed the distributor cap.
4. Scraped and cleaned the rotor lightly.
5. Checked rubber intake hose from air cleaner to intake manifold for cracks and leaks. There were none. Found four bolts missing on air cleaner cover and replaced them.
6. Added a five ounce bottle of Lucas injector cleaner.
7. Spark plug wires looked new so they were not replaced.
The car now is totally smooth and without a miss at idle and no bucking at all even when pulling at 1,000 rpm in second or higher gear. It is a delight to drive and like a different car. Sometimes at idle it is so smooth that you don't know the engine is running. Good luck!
RichieRich
Hopefully you meant NGK plugs.
Any feedback as to failure would be appreciated. I will log what was found. Thanks all. Now back to my Bike, Yamaha Silverado 1600cc. Another fun toy!
No-start was a result of a bad cam sensor.
Heating was because of a bad thermostat.