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Yes, very possible. I had a similar event happen to my previous Toyota Corolla which caused by flashers to become neurotic (they flashed doubletime). I brought it in for service and the dealer adjusted the electrical wiring; it was not a costly job.
You may want to check http://protege5.ugly.net
It includes the entire factory workshop manual for the 2002 Protege manual which may shed some light on your problem.
p.s. the cool thing about online manuals in PDF is that you can "blow up" the images to get a more detailed view.
said the EGR valve was probably bad. The NO's were very
high (90 points above the allowed limits) The problem is
that I don't have a clue where the EGR valve is located.
The shop said it's under the intake manifold. Anyone out
there in Protege land know?
See http://protege5.ugly.net
The part is pricey but once you've replaced it you'll see the difference in your emissions tests. You might also want to consider a fuel induction service to really clean out the system.
I have a 1999 Mazda Protege that had the OD Off light problem and it was an indication that my transmission had a leak. I had the transmission rebuilt and it is working fine. It seemed to have the problem only after the car sat overnight. Maybe take it to a transmission place and have them do a diagnostic, though it did not show a problem. I got the car in right away when it started having a problem.
Thanks for the help!!
have them change the tension setting on the timing belt tensioner. i just had the same problem on my 03 protege, and had to have the shop fix it. if they are not adjusting the tension on the belt properly, you'll get that nasty squeal!
I'd bring it into the shop to get it checked; you don't want to damage the guage within the fuel tank as I've heard that could be an expensive repair.
I got a 2001 Protege LX 2.0. Recently I hear some cranking noise from front left bottom when I do the U-turn (left U-turn). I went to mechanic and he said there is a problem with left axle. But after I changed the left front axle ($180 cost), there noise is still there. Does anyone got any idea about this problem? Thanks~~
I'm not an expert in this area, but this is what comes to mind:
You could have a crimped filler tube; that's the tube going from the filler neck down to the tank, or conceivably (and you'd have to call a shop that knows about Mazda's and the fuel system arrangement in your car - I'd suggest looking in the yellow pages for an independant shop) I believe there's a gas tank vent solenoid and vent line as part of the evap system which reclaims gas fumes and returns them to the tank. Either the vent line is kinked, or the vent solenoid isn't doing it's thing.
Google it.
Good luck.
My wife has a 2002 Protege 4 speed automatic.
About 5 weeks ago, she noticed that the engine was running a little rough and the "Check Engine" light would come on. When it came on, it flashed for about 5 seconds and then stopped. We took it in for the 60,000 check and they did everything they were supposed to.
Well, we noticed within a few days, the car ran worse than before the 60,000 mile check up. It ran rough at stop lights, the check engine light came on a bit more, and a new twist - when driving on the freeway, the car seemed to hesitate a bit or, when it would lurch to a degree.
We took it in 2 weeks ago, appararently, during the tune up, the mechanic forgot to put some conductive agent on the coil which was causing a misfire, hence the check engine light. Well I got the car back and we are still having the problem of hesitation on the freeway, almost near stall outs at stop lights (Though that was a one time thing and generally runs smoothly at stop lights) and the "Check Engine" light is making new visits. Flashing at first, then turning off after about 5 seconds. But, definetly, more often.
Our trip to the dealership yesterday didn't yield any results. They had the car for about 7 hours. According to the computer, the engine is misfiring still, but they cannot locate the reason why. They did check the EGR valve and it is working fine. (Though this was a problem of the "Check Engine" light about 8 months ago.) We got one phone call wanting to know if we had changed gas stations lately. End Result: Drive the car for a week and bring it back next Saturday and see if anything new is on the computer.
Well, this morning on the way to work, the car started a few new things. One, between 30 and 40, the car surges. You can see the tachometer moving up along with the surges. Two, when downshifting, starting at 40 mph, the car surges there as well and you can see the RPM surge about 500 rpm for a second.
Does pretty much the same thing at just below 20 MPH.
Anyone have any additional thoughts as to what this could be?
Thanks.
Dave
My OD light started flashing over two months ago. I took it to Goodyear for a check. They suggested transmission flushing but before they did it somehow the radiator was damaged which cost me $500 for a new one.
They had said that the transmission fluid was low and very dark. But with the radiator repair, I told them not to flush the transmission but put in more transmission fluid. Anyway, when I pick up the car, the flashing light was off and stayed off for several weeks. Now it is back on. I took it to a different service repair person who said that one of the solenoid was sticking and I should have it flushed which I did. He also said that if that did not work I may have to take it to a transmission specialist like AAMCO. But the light still flashes occasionally. I have 114050 miles on the car, what should I do?
J
Hmm, not a good sign. Is this the first time you've had the tranny fluid changed?
Are there any other symptoms like suspicious sounds or vibrations? Does the car appear to change gears properly or is there slipping?
I'd check a reputable tranny shop recommended by AAA and see if they can provide a diagnosis.
Bizarre. What I have heard is that for a very old car that has never had a transmission flush, you may run into a problem; the flush in effect causes a bigger problem than it solves because it "stirs" up the gunk that has accumulated in the tranny. But if you have maintained your transmission, you should not be running into that type of problem.
I would try calling a few transmission shops to see what they say. A transmission flush is inexpensive.
p.s Although Ford is the parent company it does not make all the components for its partners, Mazda, Volvo, Jaguar, etc. The four cylinder engine in a Protege is not a Ford product as far as I know. The 6 cylinder is another story but that is used in the 626 and Mazda6 and not the Protege or the Mazda3.
Apparently there are two (2) different catalytic converters, depending on whether your MAZDA has a 1.5 L engine or a 1.8 L engine. I cannot find this info anywhere on the engine, in the engine compartment or anywhere else on the vehicle. Sometimes the VIN identifies these things, but I do not know how to interpret the number...
The VIN on my vehicle starts with JM and ends in 7 digits. If anyone can tell me how to get this info I would appreciate it.
Thank you.
Doug
thanks
and fuel to the injectors or at least i think fuel is getting to the injectors. I puled the
fuel pressure regulator off and fuel is in the line leading to the injectors. I put the
timing at TDC on the compression stroke and the rotor was at #1. I'm stumped.
Any suggestions or tips.
type engine you have. Hope this helps.
I'll probably upset the protege fans, but I get the impression you need transportation rather than a car hobby. my advice is to unload the protege and find something else. you're looking at spending a grand or more on a 13 year old car that's sat for a couple years - sitting is bad. personally I wouldn't touch a car that old with an automatic.
imo the cheapest transportation deal right now is a used Taurus. stay away from pre-96 because of tranny problems though.
an alternative, if you're able to do some work, is to find another BG protege ('90-94) with a manual tranny and solid mechanicals. use your existing car as a parts car. swapping wheels/tires, even interiors, is much easier for a diy'r than a transmission swap.
My Mazda dealer charged me over a $100 for the trans flush and service at 30K. My mechanic must have been thinking about manual trans. He is also from the 'old school' so I tend to discount some of his advice. However I looked in the manual and there is NO mention of a transmission service being required. The flush or don't flush is controversial I know.