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You can identify your vehicle at mazdausa.com. Join as an owner, enter your VIN, and the site will identify your vehicle.
Well, after my post of December 2, things got worse. When slowing down, the car would surge between 36 & 39 MPH as well as around 15 to 20 MPH. , I made the dealership give me a free loaner car.(the service guy wanted me to pay $30.00 a day for the loaner.) Enough of this sitting around wasting my Saturday as if I have nothing else to do! I brought the car in on December 11th, got it back on December 15th. What was it? It turned out to be the EGR valve after all. (or so they thought - see below) At first they eliminated it, then looked at it and realized how full of junk it was. So, it was replaced to the tune of about $500.
Well, I have been driving the car ever since. Do you think it is ok? NO! Christmas Eve day I am driving home. I feel the car hesitate then the "orange light of death" comes on (The check engine light). I dropped off the car on Wednesday after work.
Current Status: They know it is misfiring again - they just are not sure why. On the way to the dealership, I felt the car shudder, not hesitate, like I lost 2 cylinders.
Anyone have any clues on this? I need this car to be worth something for trade in!
Thanks.
Happy Holidays!!
Dave
You may be both right.
My manual has several schedules and some footnotes.
In one footnote, for example the manual says: If vehicle is operated in cold districts {below -18 °C (0 °F)}, replace the timing belt at 96,000 km (60,000 miles).
Also, you may want to consider changing the belt if you're driving with "unique driving conditions". According to the manual, "Unique driving conditions consist of : Repeated short-distance driving. Driving in dusty conditions. Driving with extended use of brakes. Driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are used. Driving on rough or muddy roads. Extended periods of idling or low-speed operation. Driving for long periods in cold temperatures or extremely humid climates."
I changed mine at about 60K miles ... which is when my water pump failed.
Which reminds me that it's not only the timing belt that needs replacing. You should also ask about any other components (especially belts) that can fail in the area of the timing belt. Try calling a few independent garages and ask them what they recommend. You may find that they will recommend several services be done at the same time as the timing belt change. My understanding is that the real cost in a timing belt change is the "time" it takes to get to it by removing / unhooking other components. In other words, while you're there changing one belt you might as well do the related services to avoid the hours it will take in the future to handle the other belts.
We think the Check Engine Light issue is finally resolved.
What the dealership did was take the coils from another Mazda and place them into my wife's car. So far, no check engine light, no hesitation and no issues.
I am hoping this is the end of that crisis.
Thanks.
Dave
99 Mazda Protege 1.6 L engine, manual shift.
- Stuck EGR valve
- Air or Vacum Leak
Protege EGR valves tend to get clogged with carbon. If they get stuck open, it will result in very poor idle, and reduced fuel economy. If you're mechanically inclined, you can remove it, and either clean it or replace. Do a google search on "HowTo Protege EGR Cleaning".
Vacum leaks will screw up idle. Check all your vacum lines.
The air boot (corrugated hose between the air filter and the intake) tends to crack, allowing air in. This will screw up idle. Remove this boot and check for cracks/tears.
That's a start anyway.
Sure, there are lots of independent garages that can handle a Mazda protege; you don't need to go to the dealership. You can even try some auto shops which advertize free code reading.
Also give a recent history of the car - any changes, have you mainteined it, etc.
1) hooked up battery charger to boost - accidentally reversed the cables
2) multiple "explosive" sparks and small flames coming from battery terminals and vents
3) car will not start or turn over
4) headlights will come on
5) no electrical components inside car will operate
6) all fuses have been checked (supposedly)
7) tester says battery polarity is not reversed
Any ideas? I was thinking either a fusible link to the starter, or the ECU took a deadly shot of voltage.
Any other symptoms? Shudder? Hesitation? Clunking Noise? Does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on? I'm assuming that we are talking about an automatic transmission.
Have you changed the transmission fluid?
I had a friend tell me that there are two parts to the transaxle (xmission). And the problem is likely with the over/drive electrical sensor part (the cheaper part to fix) and not the actual transmission.
Yes, considering the O/D light flashes continuously.
I had a friend tell me that ... the problem is likely with the over/drive electrical sensor part (the cheaper part to fix)
We're hoping your friend is right.
Any ideas? Thanks
Dave
Take it in and let them "rip it apart".
Never told me why it was doing it - but eventually was fixed.
Sorry I can't be more of a help.
Dave
Is this the first time that this started happening?
Does the surging happen in the summer?
Apart from the surging tachometer are there any other signs (e.g. engine much louder than normal, engine shakes, etc.)?
Once the car warms up does the surging stop?
How long does it take to warm up (a few minutes, about 5 minutes, 6+ minutes)?
Highly unlikely that it's the original timing belt - unless you were born under a very lucky star. MOst timeing belts need to be changed at 100K miles. In the case of Mazda the risk of a broken timing belt is disasterous. It sounds like you are due to have yours replaced soon. Unless you are mechanically adept, I'd suggest getting it done by a pro. If you mess up, the timing belt could cook your engine. Then that $500 job is looking like several thousand dollars.
While you're at the garage have them check out the other problem. The EGR problem is fairly easy to diagnose.
If you can afford it, pay a professional. If you DIY, seek online help from one of the dedicated mazda forums.
Either way, while you're in there, replace the water pump and all belts. Otherwise you'll be paying the labor all over again.
The 95 is a non-interference engine.
http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?file=428-1466_web.pdf&folder=- brochure
Some people drive until the timing belt breaks, tow it to a garage and get the belt replaced. You'll have to decide if you want to do that. Just depends on how long you plan to keep the car and what maintenance you want to do.
Of course, it will happen on the way to your job interview with Donald Trump.
We are having the same problem with our Mazda Protege 2002. Have you figured out the cause? Suggestions?
Thanks,
KPresley
I too ran across this post from davidingilbert when I started having CEL issues with my '02 P5. There have been several posts regarding this problem since this that would give you a great overview of the challenges we each faced prior to having the problem resolved. In addition to davidingilbert, see posts from winston3x and myself or go directly to posts 1201, 1204, 1219, 1222, 1227-1230, 1235 and 1237. If you want to skip all the history though and cut right to the chase - davidngilbert posted this update (#1187):
Debbi - here is the latest. What they ended up doing was replacing the coils from one Protege and putting it into my wife's car. So far, so good. We only have had the car back a few days, so we are not sure if this is going to work or not. The dealership was not 100% sure either seeing how they can only put so many miles on a car.
I will keep everyone posted.
Thanks.
Dave
Replacing both of the coils (in addition to new plugs & wires) proved to be the resolution to my CEL issue as well and so far at least, replacing the coils appears to have solved winston3x's issue as well.
Good luck to you ~
Debbi
First, Debbi and the Gang! Goodness, THANK YOU so much! Your kindness in discussing your problem, is helping me resolve my wonderful Misfire Code I hope tomorrow. The Coils will be replaced and then I will update you all to let you know if that did the trick. Already, Sparkies changed, EGR valve cleaned, Fuel Injector Cleaned, so I feel so confident that it is the Coils! What do you all think about getting together a letter to Mazda, to let them know their faulty Coils have caused so many problems for all of us. I love driving my 2002 P5! But I think I had a lemon. :lemon: It only has 57K miles on it, it had a new transmission replaced in June. I mean the most I drive Zoom Zoom is less than 4 miles a day. I read somewhere that you never should change the transmission fluid in a Mazda. It is odd, a month before I had Tranny issues, I had my fluid changed, and I think that was the culprit for it.
Sorry didn't mean to get on another rant, but thought I would bring up my experience with that too. I have my fingers crossed but again Thank you so much for sharing your information! This is why the internet is awesome!
Zoom Zoom Zoom!
rpms. Any clues?
Two Deb's think alike huh! I am sorry that your wasn't under warranty. That is nuts. I had no problem going to my local dealer. It took them about 10 minutes to test it out and said yep I nailed it! I talked to them about the information we are providing each other and the guy I talked to said maybe a letter from all P5ers might help! I get my Cat changed Thursday and I can't wait. My car is still not shake, rattle and roll, nor is it losing power, but something feels different about my car, but I won't complain too much because at least I feel safer in driving it. I know I had my guardian angels looking over me. I lost power during my rough roll incident when I was merging onto a major highway. Thank Goodness nothing was in the lane I was moving.
Again, I just want to express my thanks to you all for being so kind in sharing your issues with the P5. I think we are all experts to say, if you get a Random Misfire.... don't take oh it's nothing as an answer!
Thanks!
If it is a loose wiring harness, how can I repair that myself?
Also, the right rear brake light isn't coming on, not sure how long that's been happening, can someone tell me what that would cost to fix?
Thanks.
In terms of your rear brake light, it most likely is just the bulb. If it costs $5.00, I think that is a lot. As long as you are at Checker's, let them look at it and see what they can figure out.
Dave
Except the CEL light that comes on/off intermittently, I did not have any problems. However, I asked the service to run the 60k service for peace of mind within this year. On top of the ~$400 I was charged, here is what they came up with:
1) CEL Code: 171 - Lean fuel - possibly because of a leaking intake gasket ($500)
2) Timing Belt - Because it is time to replace it !! ($399)
3) Engine mounts ??
4) Rear sway bar links and bushings ??
4) New oil ran ??
I am driving the car only once a week and already spent $400 for this service. What do you guys thin ? Do I (urgently) need any of the listed above?
I guess in case I decide to sell the car, I will need to have at least the first two done!!
On the other hand, I'm just having bad luck haha, I seem to have somehow broken the cover for my front right turn signal, could any of you tell me what that could cost to replace? Also, is it normal for the right blinker to blink super fast if the cover's broken?
Does it idle rough? Check the air intake tube for cracks. That's the large tube between the air cleaner box and the intake manifold. They tend to crack in the ribbed area. About a $35 part. Also could be caused by a vacuum leak. Look/listen for sucking noise.
2) Timing belt - yep, time to replace it. Pretty difficult job for DIY
3) Engine Mounts - if they're broken, then need to be replaced.
4) Rear sway bar end-links and bushings. Fairly easy DIY project.
4) New oil pan. Why?
I'd get a second opinion on the engine mounts, end-links, and oil pan.
Fast blinking light will be because a bulb is burned out. Try to find a replacement at a local junk yard.
Yes - the top of the air cleaner box is cracked; it seems like a relative easy-to-change part, but I could not find this part in none of the online part suppliers; may be I am not searching with the correct part name?
They quoted $399 for the timing belt repair - which I thought was not THAT bad!