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Comments
Thanx
Did you fix that cam sensor your self? I have an 01 Mazada that is doing that to me and that is what the Diag. determined it to be also. Was that difficult?? was just wondering.
Thanx in advance for any thing you can provide also.
A couple weeks ago got the CEL and have noticed a poor idle and poor accelaration once the car warms up. Since the car is a 1995, haven't been able to get the Autozone-like places to read the diagnostic codes. Have done the following: Change Oil/Filter, New air filter, inspected air intake boot and vacuum lines for leaks, replaced PCV valve, spark plugs, and upstream O2 sensor. No improvement w/ any of those actions.
Poor acceleration is typically at low speeds - car seems to run ok at higher speeds, although some hesitation noticed in the 40 mph range. Need some street smarts on how to dissociate other possible problems: ERG valve?, Mass Air Flow sensor?, spark plug wires?, O2 sensors?, etc. There was a posting about jumpering some wires inside the diagnostic box under the hood to read the computer codes by observing the CEL flashes - but that didn't work. Trying to do my best at not having to take it to the Mazda dealership for obvious reasons.
Also, about 2 months or so ago had a bad-gas experience w/ alot of water from a Shell station; at that time, mechanic emptied gas tank, flushed lines, replaced fuel filter, etc. When finished, car ran great. Not sure if theres a link here because if had been running fine for over a month.
Please advise.
I will have to take a look at that I got me some New Plugs and I am going to try that and then maybe some wires also.
Was it hard to work with that EGR that you speak about??
I appreciate the input also..
Frankie
Thanx again.
It allows exhaust gas to flow into the intake manifold (recirculate) during certain operating conditions. Purpose is to control the amount of oxygen in the cylinder for combustion. Reduced oxygen lowers combustion temperature, reducing the amount of NOx created.
Bit the bullet and took it to the Mazda dealership who ran the diagnostics on it - "misfire on 3rd cylinder." Turned out that the spark plug wire on the 3rd cylinder was bad; i had inspected the wires (and replaced plugs), but didn't notice there was a small crack on the "boot" that fits inside the engine cavity (that you don't typically see). Replaced wires and car runs great!
Frankie
After an hour or so, I noticed that the red indicator light was still on, so I called again. This time they said that the alternator belt is not working and thus I would need a new belt which would cost $ 90 with labor. They said that because of this the previous battery was not working and we had to replace. I wanted to ask you all and would appreciate you comments, whether replacing the battery was worth it or I could have used the same if I had figured out the belt problem earlier. Thanks very much and would appreciate your reply.
Agreed. Whether the garage did this intentionally or due to incompetence, it would be better to take one's business elsewhere. On the other hand, a diagnostic test is not going to be free either. So, the lesson learned is that one ends up paying one way or another.
I had a dealership where I was getting recommendations to fix something different every time I came in. When they told me about the belt, I thought they were lying, but I felt the belt where the grooves are and did feel some wear spots, so that one they were telling the truth.
In terms of the seals, I would find out how much it costs to change them. My wife's Protgeg has almost 70,000 miles on it and never heard of this type of seal before. Or, take it some place else and get their opinion.
Hope this helps.
Dave
I have two codes that are coming up on my car, P0300 ( Rapid cylinder Misfire) and P0421
I am debating on what to do, no one seems to know, i don't want to change a sensor and then it not be the right one, then there goes 120 bucks.
My car cuts out on me when driving down the road, engine light flashes for a minute then goes solid, then i get power again.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
green86
My car cuts out on me when driving down the road, engine light flashes for a minute then goes solid, then i get power again.
My car did the exact same thing as you're describing - replacing the plugs, wires and most importantly... the coils solved my issues. A little too late to save me from having to replace my CAT though....
I hope this helps you with your problem... good luck.
Debbi
We're glad you had an extended warranty! Have you modified the engine (e.g. by adding components)?
p.s. EGR valve
PCV valve should NOT be at fault; in the old days it might have been. An older mechanic disagreed with a younger one on whether that could be the problem. I think it's like doctors depends what they have seen. We are still in wait and see mode.
My research has come up with a simple cylinder compression test as the culprit. Has this been done? Try searching on PCV valve random misfire and you will find an article on the subject.
Let me know.
It cranks but it will not start on these kind of days but on a sunny day it will start right up like nothing is wrong with it. I had the battery amps checked and eventhough the battery is 4 years old, it is cranking out the right amps and so that can be ruled out as the problem.
One of my coworker is telling me that this is due to some moisture issues and I need to replace the rotor and rotor cap....does any one else have this issue? What could be the problem here?
Please help!
The check engine light will also come on about once a week with a P0170 code. According to the book my OBCD reader came with it is a 'Fuel Trim Malfunction'.
I'd appreciate some suggestions on what I should look at.
Background info:
EGR valve replaced three years ago (at a shop)
I put in a new alternator and belt 1 month ago (did I damage something while removing the old alternator??)
It sometimes smells of gasoline and gas mileage is down about one third. Light went out the other day for about half and hour.
The dealer quotes $800 to get all the belts and water pump changed and I know I can save half of that using the mechanics I've been going to for 25 years. They work primarily on VW's but do other foreign cars as well. They are excellent mechanics and very honest. But they are probably old school and not keeping up with current models.
My question: Is there anything special about changing a timing belt and water pump in my 01 Protege that would make it highly desirable to take it to the dealer? Thanks.
The other day my check engine light came on, and the code was for my wiring, and for the coil number 4. It went away when I got the wiring fixed.
Also my gas mileage has goign downhill lately...
Any help would be appreciated
i guess i'd explain the symptoms to a local mazda tech and see what they think.
Are you certain you haven't had your spark plugs changed since 2003? Normally, it's done after 24 months (in your case, 2005 perhaps?).
With the distributor cap off, look to see if the distributor rotor moves when the engine is cranked. If it doesn't, your belt is toast.
I got two quotes for repair and both are $500+ ??
Is it really that expensive to replace the intake gasket? I hope this is really the source of my CEL (error 0171) problem -
I am planning on getting a quote from a local mechanic also! Would be interest to hear from someone who had a similar issue/repair in the past.
Got a Mazdaspeed recently ... check engine light was on ..... when got the error code P0172 ... it saying a rich code ..... and after a day ..... it read a code for misfire .... don't know whats happening .... the mechanic suggested to replace the bad plastic compartments .... and sadly ... some exhaust which supposed to be connected was cut ..... it has a lot of changes done ... like aftermarket exhaust ... and the staibilzer or something replaced .... my mechanic doesn't feel its a good car ..... He is a very nice guy .... knows what he is doing ... trust him .... just wanna leave a warning to ppl to take a thorough check before buying this car ...
don't know whats gonna happen with my car .... if anyone has any workshop manual for 03mazdaspeed plz ..... send it to me or ... guide me there ...
thanks
Agreed, you should always get a used car checked before you buy it. I don't think the Mazdaspeed is any different. It sounds like you may not have done the check before but only after the problems started showing up. I wonder what it would cost for you to "restore" the car back to its original state.
In any case, good luck to you.
My 2002 Protege5 has done that occasionally in the last 5 years. It feels like the transmission kicked into gear. It does not seem to have led to any problems in my case.
Its taking a lot of my time and effort ... been running around back and forth . with mechanic shops ... and dealers ....