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Just a quick update - no "CEL" since my last visit to the dealership for the issue - I believe in February. I am also glad my experience helped everyone here with the same or similar issue.
I am in need of everyone's help again.
By now, my wife's Protege has about 72,000 miles on. I mainly use it now because I drive approximately 60 miles a day between home and work.
When driving on the freeway between 60 and 70 MPH and the tachometer is around 3,000 RPM, I get this high-pitched whining sound. The closest sound I can think of when the dentist is filing your teeth, but a little higher than that sound. It never last very long - 2 to 4 seconds at most. At first I thought it was the tires making contact in a strange way with the cement. But, now I believe it is something behind the radio or A/C controls. But, it appears to be happening more and more. Plus, my wife has heard it - so I know it is not only me!
Anyone else have a similar issue? If so, any idea as to what it could be?
Please advise.
Have a good July 4th folks!
Dave
Interesting. I'd check around and under the car for loose bits. You may want to isolate the sound by driving on a quiet stretch of road.
Anybody can help us? Thanks a lot!
Why leave it off? All leaving it off does is prevent the transmission from entering its highest gear (which happens to be O/D). Perhaps if e feels the price of gas is too cheap, this is a good idea.
What you get with driving at low speeds in OD is "lugging" of the engine, which is the most stressful of all conditions for an engine.
Aside from all that, if you stomp on the gas while in OD at 25-35 mph, you just fall flat until the car downshifts.
I don't think you are saving any gas by driving in OD at very low speeds. You might actually be wasting it because you need more throttle to get anywhere.
OK! I've had the car almost 3 years now... My engine crapped out 3 or so months ago. The car sat for a month until I purchased a used engine from a reputable local company. One weekend a friend and I made time to swap the engines. Taking our time we used one day to remove the broken down original engine and the next putting in the purchased used one. All went fine, no problems to mention... I turned the key and it started up and ran like nothing had ever happened... At that point I was very pleased and took her out of his garage for a test spin around the block...
The very 1st thing I noticed was a noise like iron wire dragging under the car on the ground. It had at that point sat outside on the street for a good month so surface rust building up on the inside of the rear drums or front rotors is very likely. It was that kind of noise... In addition to that the brakes where nonexistent. I had to bury my foot into to the pedal to stop. I've inspected most if not all brake hardware, changed all pads/shoes and bleed the brake system. The pedal seems very stiff, not spongy & definitely off the floor. It still doesn't stop well at all... I'm down to replacing the master brake cylinder. Does anyone think different?? What about the booster? Could the booster be the route of my brake problem??
OK now on to my next issue two weeks into running the car with the new used engine... I would describe it as a smooth bucking or surging when accelerating from a dead stop. Its worse when the car/engine is cold. It will do it 3-4 up to 7-8 times before smoothing out. Sometimes when warm it won't do it at all, but most the time it will. Other than that it behaves the way it should to me even giving better gas mileage over the old engine before it died. There are no warning lights of any kind... Out of gear it idles fine.. In gear, car stopped it idles fine... I've changed the transmission fluid, about to change the plugs, and maybe the fuel injector rail with injectors from my old engine I had saved “just in case”. Someone suggested to me it could be the transmission filter... Does anyone have any thoughts??
FYI: Car has 94,000 miles on it & the engine has 85,000.
Mazda Protege Timing Marks
"Replace clutch disk: Includes R&I Transaxle
To R&R Flywheel, Add Clutch disk
To R&R Pilot Bearing, Add Clutch Disk
Clutch Disk
Clutch Slave Cylinder"
this total is $783... I'm in Northern VA.. pretty high labor costs
Another place's estimate adds up to $700 but they say I need a master cylinder not a slave, they also say I need a front seal.
A third shop says I need a new clutch assembly, drive train (includes replacing pressure plate, Di Pilot and Throw Out Bearing). Also a new flywheel. And they say I don't necessarily need a new slave or master cylinder, but have given me estimates on those as well, for a grand total of a whopping $1330.
I can't tell from this what I really need, and I can't tell which shop I shold work with, all I know is that there's no way I can afford the third if I do all the work. Any advice or suggestions about what I should do????
clutch disk
pressure plate
throw out bearing
pilot bearing
clutch slave (depending on mileage, or signs of leaking, filthy fluid, etc)
clutch master (as above)
And yes, the transmission/transaxle has to come out.
HOWEVER, replacing the flylwheel is rather dubious because they haven't inspected it yet. Unless it is badly, and I mean BADLY cracked from heat, it can be resurfaced (a good idea) if ...IF....there is any roughness to it. If you don't resurface a flywheel that is scored or rough, the clutch will chatter, which is most annoying.
$700 sounds fair enough to me if they do everything I mentioned.
A clutch job is not something you want to do again in 20,000 miles. So replace EVERYTHING that requires the transmission to be removed. A clutch slave or clutch master is no biggie, that can be done when it is needed.
And again, I think replacing the flywheel as a preventative measure is extreme and should not be done unless it is really messed up.
Visiting Host
Just bought my first Mazda -- '02 Protege LX (2.0), AT and such. However, I noticed as I was driving it back down to Los Angeles today that once I get to about 55-60 mph, I start to hear a very noticeable rattling sound from what sounds like the bottom right of the front passenger area, almost behind and a little below the glove compartment. I'm assuming it's probably the strut mounts or the stabilizer links, but is there anything obvious a new zoom-zoomer like me might be missing?
Thanks,
Rob
I highly recommend not messing with the throttle body adjustments. If it is dirty or clogged, clean it. If all the hoses and tubes are in good shape, check the IAC valve under the throttle body.
Thanks
timing belt
tensioner
cam seals
crank seal
valve cover gasket
timing idlers
water pump
Estimate totaled $370 for parts (from Advance, not Mazda parts), $200 labor - this all by a friend, independent unemployed mechanic working on his own. I was then advised that if anything "went wrong", etc., this could create a bad situation (for me) as there would be no liability/responsibility for anything that might happen.
After contemplation, I decided best way to go would be where I could get a warranty on work (parts and labor), so got a shop estimate of $630 with same parts. Mazda dealer quoted $900, but after hearing previous estimates, convinced me to bring car in for them to check and they would work with me, convincing me they could get cost down to at least mid-$700s or probably even lower. Another shop quoted $260 labor plus cost of genuine Mazda parts which should make total around $700 +/-.
Took car into dealer, they tell me I don't need tensioner (would save about $65 for Mazda part per online research), added additional belts bringing total for parts/labor to $770 and intake "boot" (can't find this online - is it same as valve?) for 85.78/no additional labor, now back up to original $900 quote (actually $932.78 with taxes).
I do feel warranty is important as I cannot afford to put out more money for re-repair and have no other means of transportation. Do you know if Mazda parts carry their same warranty if service not done by a Mazda dealer/mechanic? I have owned Mazdas for several years now, but this is highest mileage and most major work at one time that I have ever had done on one, so I guess that is what is causing me the most stress, but would really appreciate your opinion.
I can't get a definitive answer on what they are charging for labor (as they tell me it varies from $95/hour, but less than that for this type work), but it seems that is the major cost difference, appearing to be (from quote of $260 of other shop) to what appears to be closer to $500 with Mazda, and they tell me they have worked to get the price down and are basically "cutting me a deal"?? Am I getting a good or reasonable deal for the work listed? :confuse:
Two more things they found that will need replacing soon are a thermostat gasket (quoted $225) and distributor cap which is leaking minimal oil now (quoted $150). I was also told by them that my car is in extremely good condition for age/miles. Do these prices sound reasonable too? Thank you so very much for your opinion/advice!!!
I think genuine Mazda parts would have a warranty no matter who installed them but you'd have to demonstrate defects is materials and workmanship, and of course the LABOR is not warrantied by Mazda if an outsider installs the part.
I know some very good indie shops so I'd be inclined to save the $300 and go there rather than the dealer, but if you don't have strong confidence in the indie shop or any idea of their reputation, then the dealer is really your only logical choice.
You might have to cruise the specialty Honda internet sites to get this flash code information, or buy the proper workshop manual that tells you how, but you need some hard data to figure out what to do next. You can't just be throwing parts at it, that's expensive and frustrating. Your public library might have something.
Spark plugs, coils , wires, injector flush, new PCV valve and count 'em four fuel injectors. One was really bad and the dealership put in one new injector and 3 used ones. All of this was covered under the extended warranty we bought 5 years ago. All the work worth about CAD 2600. Not a cent did we pay to have this troublesome problem fixed. So far, no more check engine light and the car is purring. Hope this helps other people out there with the same problem.
Spark plugs, coils , wires, injector flush, new PCV valve and count 'em four fuel injectors. One was really bad and the dealership put in one new injector and 3 used ones. All of this was covered under the extended warranty we bought 5 years ago. All the work worth about CAD 2600. Not a cent did we pay to have this troublesome problem fixed. So far, no more check engine light and the car is purring. Hope this helps other people out there with the same problem.
See you there!
Focus on rubber parts like intake boots, vacuum hoses and grommets.
also what could cause my engine to keep flooding? Sensors?? my Fuel injectors. work fine as i had my Brother in law help me with it.. we removed the injectors.. and they all look good tested them they all work fine so we put them back into the car... could it be a Sensor? like the O2 Sensor?