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thanks
so this will help .thanks again . this was my first post but i look at the site quit often just to see what problems people have more so to see the respnses
my car is finally repaired,i took me a while from 2 different mazda dealers,that they could not find the right problems,but instead they skrew you and ,change different parts,it serves me and anyone as an experience to get different estimates before you take to any dealer,and before you can do some research ,i finally find an honest meccanic and someone that understands cars, my all problem was not the idle egr valve , or maf sensor,or idle control valve, ,altough i did replaced all of them,compression was good,and clean of trottle helped a lot,
it was the timing belt and water pump that was leaking,and causing a misfire,replace the timing belt ,replace the water pump,seals,valve gasket,coil and rotor ,plugs and wire for the second time,new hoose for the radiator,and the car is finally working like a charm,it took me more money to fix it,but half of the dealer estimate,and it was all done in one day.again thanks to the forum and help,it open my eyes and learned a lot from this experience.
I wonder if this may also be related to the car's emission control systems (e.g. EGR or PCV valves). Too bad the shop did not spot this while they had the car.
Look at the accordian pipe between the air cleaner and the intake manifold. Sometimes they develop cracks.
This is my 2nd protege and has been a great car.
What do you mean? What are you "defrost"ing?
Interesting. I did not realize that the test used the history from the car's computer.
In Ontario Canada we have a Drive Clean Emission program that measures the emission systems of the car every second year. The thirty minute test involves measuring the output at idle and 40 km/hr of hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and nitrous oxide (NO) from the tailpipe. Mechanics recommend that prior to testing the car be warmed up by driving it on the highway for a half hour or more. One way of ensuring positive results is to have a fuel system cleaning done before the test.
Welcome to the wonderful world of On Board Diagnostics. The complexity of the OBD software in your car's computer rivals that of the actual control system it's monitoring.
Some monitors only run on cold start. Some only run once a certain temperature is reached, and engine is operating at a certain speed and torque output. It may take several drive cycles over several days to get all monitors to run enough to satisfy the smog test.
Dry: #1 140 #2 140 #3 145 #4 150
Wet:#1 155 #2 145 #3 170 #4 160
I checked for vacuum leaks and found none. I cleaned the throttle body and the EGR valve, which had much carbon. This car does not have a distributor and I have ohm'ed out the crankshaft and the cam shaft sensor. They check fine.
I wonder: While I am confident that the (DOHC) timing marks are lined up properly (Intake "I" (left) at 12 O'clock and the line @ 3 O'clock, Exhaust "E" (right) at 12 O'clock and the line at 9 o'clock) - with the #1 piston @ top dead center, I wonder if my timing belt (new) has become stretched with all the putting on/taking off.
Please post suggestions / theories about what could be the cause of the no idle/rough running. I welcome _all_ ideas. Thanks in advance!
I signed up for this car blog thing because I read your March 15th post, and the exact same thing has been going on with my car for the past 3 or so years. I've dealt with it because it has been so random, and I usually can get where I need to go, but recently it has gotten to the point where I am not sure if I'll get from point A to point B anymore and I'm sick of it! (In fact, this past weekend I also had to drive back from a trip I started at 55 MPH and then get a rental.)
The only differences that I can notice is that mine happens during any speeds (but it's worst on the highway), and I didn't have a cylinder misfire (not quite sure what that is, though). My check engine light has never come on, and the computer codes show nothing.
Sorry, I know there was a big long discussion after your initial post, but could you possibly recap in very simple terms for me? Was your problem ever totally fixed? I am not very car savvy, but mine is currently at a mazda dealership being tested, so I am just wondering what you found out.
Thanks a ton!! I appreciate any insights!
after i had gone to the dealer i had so many things done and actually it was not what it seems it was ,i have a mazda protege 97 ,this car had so many things done,after i had all this things done my real problem was the timing belt and the water pump,but i also did a completely tune up (coil -rotor- o ring-cap plugs-wires-
clean fuel injectors replace one , maf sensor-replace connectors-air filter-check all the water and air hose from the radiator and egr valve and fuel line-also i had a new egr valve-a new idle air control valve ,fuel filter,fuel regulator, clean the intake manifold,so many things before i had the timing belt and the water pump.so i will suggest before you try to do so many of this things you should have an honest meccanic check it out and give you an estimate,also if you are not getting enough power it could be a transmission issue and fuel pump issue,or related to fuel,guessing can be expence try to minimize the real problem,one by one,i started that the computer tells me it was an egr valve and it follows by other but the computer was wrong so many times, it give an engine light because there was other real problems causing it ,anyway good luck.
I'm looking into buying a 2002 or 2003 Mazda Protege with around 70,000 miles to get to around while I'm still in college. This will be my first car so I would appreciate some advice on the following:
- Is there much difference in reliability between the 2002 and 2003 models?
- Are there things in particular I should look for when I go check out the car? I've read here about the EGR valve, anything I can check for related to that? Any other problems?
- I know it depends on a lot of factors, but overall would you say it is a good purchase that won't give me too much trouble?
Since this will be my first car I am a little nervous about getting a lemon, so I would really appreciate your input.
Thanks.:D
No, there is no big difference in reliability.
Are there things in particular I should look for when I go check out the car? I've read here about the EGR valve, anything I can check for related to that? Any other problems?
Rust around the wheel wells can be a problem. Also, check the state of the disc brakes to see that they do not need replacement.
I know it depends on a lot of factors, but overall would you say it is a good purchase that won't give me too much trouble?
Overall, a reliable car. Check Consumer Reports for their recommendations on used cars. To be sure the car has been well maintained ask the seller if they have all the service records and have the car checked at a mechanic of your choosing. Be wary of sellers who do not want to do this. If a seller claims the car is fine they should feel confirdent about it passing this test. Your mechanic will also provide valuable information about items that may need to be addressed in the near future (such as worn tires) so that you can reduce the surprises after your purchase.
Final words about Proteges: great cars!
- How does the transmission perform? Drive it on the highway, noting how the transmission shifts as you accelerate onto the highway and how it downshifts as you decelerate. If you detect anything rough or jerky, or if it fails to stay in overdrive while at speed, stay away.
- When you turn the key on, the Check Engine light will come on momentarily as a test. Make sure it really comes on - otherwise it may have been tampered with. Also make sure the light goes out once the engine is started.
- Pay careful attention to how the car idles in Park, and in gear while stopped. It should idle smooth and not too fast. EGR problems, IAC valve problems, or vacuum leaks will cause idle problems.
- If it has power windows, make sure they all roll up and down.
- Drive slowly over a speed bump or similar, and listen for clunks in either the front end or back. Rear endlinks aren't too expensive to have replaced, but front ones are.
To clarify, you mentioned,
Pay careful attention to how the car idles in Park, and in gear while stopped
I assume this is for an automatic transmission? If so, then for a manual does the same apply when idling in neutral?
Also if anyone else has some other input it would be appreciated.
In either case, a vacuum leak will generally cause the engine to idle too low to the point of stalling, then overcorrect and rev too high, then drop down start dropping too low. The air/fuel ratio is wrong and the computer can't compensate. Typically they will run fine when not idling, when the amount of air leaking is small compared to the total airflow.
BTW, I love my protege. I've been looking for another one for my kids to drive.
Is the coolant leaking to the ground (and not into the engine)?
Were the hoses leading to and from the radiator replaced?
Were the clamps holding the hoses checked?
Have you considered going to another garage for a second opinion?
No the hoses were not replaced, they pressure tested them and there were no leaks.
I will ask about the clamps.
one of my customers owns a shop who customizes cars and he said to bring it by.
Did i mention i live in texas!! Could that have anything to do with anything (the heat?)
If it is not leaking below, then where is the coolant going? How often do you have to replace the coolant?
No the hoses were not replaced, they pressure tested them and there were no leaks ...one of my customers owns a shop who customizes cars and he said to bring it by.
Ask your "customer" to take a look at the hoses to see if they still appear usable (no bulges, cracks, softening ...). The hoses and radiator in my 2002 Protege5 are still in tip top shape (knock on wood).
Did i mention i live in texas!! Could that have anything to do with anything (the heat?)
Yes, your car is obviously using its cooling system more frequently than someone living in a cooler climate. Also, driving in congested traffic can be taxing. But, your car's radiator is made for that purpose and should be working properly.
The coolant is going somewhere. Either blowing out the expansion tank overflow when you're driving, or out a leak when driving, or into the cylinders.
If the radiator cap is not operating properly, it will let coolant flow out into the overflow tank at a lower pressure than intended. This will overflow the tank and spill out on the ground when the engine is hot. As the engine cools, the coolant in the overflow tank will be sucked back into the engine.
The same thing could be happening with a properly operating cap, if your engine is overheating.
If it's going into the cylinders, your exhaust will smell like antifreeze. Blown head gasket or cracked head.
I'm pretty sure it's engine issues, but I don't know exactly what it is. Does anyone have advice? Thanks in advance!
I have a problem with my 1994 protege. It was working fine for a long time, but I recently took a 120 mile road trip, and now it's... not working so well. The engine stutters and feels like it's not giving any power. This seems to happen mainly at 1st 2nd and 3rd gears - things seem to work okay at higher gears... although the problem does seem to be getting worse. I drove it to the store and back to test it out, and I heard what seemed to be a metallic grinding or scraping sound (maybe) coming from the bottom of the car.
From what I've read on this forum and some other places, it sounds like it might be the clutch slipping. What do you guys think? Futhermore, I am currently 120 miles away from home - if the clutch is slipping, is the car okay to drive for that long? (uphill - along I-40 from hickory to asheville, nc, in case anyone is interested)
Thanks in advance. I would really appreciate any help thrown my way here...
oh yeah: the car has 170k+ miles on it. don't know full vehicle history (bought it used a couple months ago), although title check showed no salvage, etc. stuff. No problems to this point, except an axle that had to replaced (front right).
MNF .
Is it possible to manually adjust the idle speed?
Thanks
O15
Idle is controlled by the ECU (computer), not by a screw like in the old days. If the idle is too high, then something is wrong and needs to be fixed. A good possibility is that a vacuum line got knocked loose when the plugs were changed. Any air leak downstream of the MAF sensor on the intake will screw up idle. That means any vacuum line or anything between the intake manifold upstream to the MAF.
I searched the forum for other instances of people having carburetors going bad on Protege's, but I must be the exception.
My wife's '02 Protege5 began having pretty severe issues while driving over 50 mpg with the engine running at 50% and the engine light blinking - but the issues were occasional and we delayed getting them looked at for a couple of weeks. Big mistake!
Turns out the engine coils had gone bad (2 of the 4). So I got them replaced, seemed to be fine in running when I drove away from the shop. The next day the engine light was back on with a code that the carburetor had gone bad.
Long story short - in delaying the fix of the engine issues the gas/air mix was thrown off, ruining the carburetor. I had quotes for around $1100 to fix it but found a shop here in Columbus to it for $300 - which was very good in my mind.
So this all went down six months ago but I was shocked when I searched and found seemingly no one else having engine coil pack and/or carburetor problems.
We're now at 105k miles and no issues for the past few months but that was a frustrating setback. Overall I like the car still just thought I should share my experience.
Coils do go bad, but for two to go bad on a 7 year old car seems odd.
In the future, if the check engine light (CEL) blinks, stop driving immediately. If it's on but not blinking, you can drive without expecting any damage to occur. But a blinking CEL means to stop driving immediately or serious engine damage can occur.
I meant to type Catalytic Converter - not carburetor, probably makes more sense now.
Yes - we know now that blinking light is bad. My wife didn't accurately describe how bad the issue was, plus we were having 10F weather and I thought it could be related to the cold.
I'll check lines,
If nothing, then off to the dealer.
Thanks downtube.
O15
Though the car starts without issue, it is now to the point that any time the rpm's drop below 2400 the battery light comes on. I am now figuring that the alternator needs replacing and am considering attempting to do this myself but don't want to go to all the trouble and expense if it turns out this isn't the problem. The only other thing I can think of is a short somewhere though it seems that since the problem is getting worse this is not likely the case. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Edit: I also checked the belt which seems to be in good condition (it was replaced several months ago). If it appears to be the alternator, any advice re: OEM/new/rebuilt? Dealership wants 384, can get a rebuilt one for 145 or aftermarket for 200
You may be right, as your car is almost 10 years old. How many miles on the vehicle? Assuming you had the timing belt changed, did you not have the belt for the alternator changed at the same time? My understanding is that the parts (i.e. the alternator and belt) are only half the battle, getting to them is where the real expense is; that's the major reason why changing a timing belt is so costly.
I recommend a diagnostic is done before doing any repair work to avoid replacing parts that are not a problem.
I'd say the #1 thing to check is the alternator belt tension. Technique should be in the manual. New belts do stretch and settle in after installation, so that could be it.
Buy a battery terminal cleaner (wire brush thing), and clean both the terminals and the posts. A poor connection to the battery could be the cause. Check for corrosion on the battery cables near the battery, and replace if badly corroded. Of course make sure the terminals are on tight.
Since you've changed the battery, next would be the alternator. Most auto parts stores these days will test the alternator for free, but you have to remove it first. I wouldn't go cheap on the alternator, unless you find replacing it enjoyable.