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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • sclauzadesclauzade Member Posts: 1
    I would like to know if someone here could tell me how to change a speed sensor on a mazda 2001. pictures would be great thanks STEVE
  • helpme101helpme101 Member Posts: 2
    Ok I'm really new to this but hope it works. My husband has a 1993 Mazda Protege and he ran it severly hot to the point where it shut down. The heads are not cracked but the engine now just turns over. We can not afford a new car so I am hoping someone here may be able to tell us what is wrong with it.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    My husband has a 1993 Mazda Protege and he ran it severly hot to the point where it shut down. The heads are not cracked but the engine now just turns over.

    Do you mean the motor is running but the car does not move? If it does move, I suggest you head to your local mechanic. On the other hand, it's almost 17 years old so it may be time ...
  • helpme101helpme101 Member Posts: 2
    No it doesn't move the engine won't start. I realize it is 17 yrs old but we can not afford a new car. I am looking for a helpful answer not a take it to a mechanic answer. Thanks
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    How do you know the head isn't cracked?

    The first thing I'd do is run a compression test. Blown head gasket and/or warped head is a good possibility. You can also look for sign of coolant from the tailpipe, oil in the coolant, or bubbles/churning in the radiator when the engine is cranked.

    If the engine got really hot it could have damaged sensors and/or sensor cables. I've seen the crank position sensor cable melted by an overheated engine.

    I recently replaced a blown head gasket on a mazda that overheated. Don't be fooled by thinking a head gasket is only $60. The repair cost me about $600, and I did all the labor myself. Overheating can do a lot of damage. I had to replace the radiator, the crank position sensor, top end gasket set, and head bolts. With the engine apart it made sense to replace the timing belt, water pump, both serpentine belts, and radiator hoses.

    The guys at clubprotege.com and themazdaforum.com can be helpful. You'll need to provide good information, not just say "please help". Like, how do you know the head isn't cracked? What exactly happened? Have you done any tests? Do you have the mechanical skills to troubleshoot and repair? Don't be offended, but folks will respond better to good solid information than desperate pleas.
  • hooker321hooker321 Member Posts: 13
    You will need to have the Cylinder head worked on. I paid 375.00 for the rebuild and did it myself. Your valves cant close now so you will never get the 195 lbs of compression you need. Your head is prob not cracked tho. The shop will do a pressure check before rebuilding it. I would fix then sell.. or junk the car meaning part it out on ebay! Mine left me stranded on a -30 degree day and I vow to never own a computer controled, timing belt istead of chain, piece of crap again! Mechanical everything, even the fuel pump!
  • chump2chump2 Member Posts: 8
    i need some advise , our 2001 Es has 108,000miles yesterday it just died , we were able to restart it but it would staul out , after running it for a while keeping my foot on the gas slightly it would now stay running but idles low . the engine light came on and is still on . we dont want to use it because we dont want to get stuck on the road , we havent had any problems until now we purchased it new .
    any thoughts ? thanks
  • waldoownz1981waldoownz1981 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 97 mazda protege and recently i started having issues where the idle is very high. started with 1500 rpms and now its at 3000. Just wondering if anyone else had the same issue with this car and how did it get resolved.
    Thanks
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    Take it to a local auto parts store and have them hook a scanner to it to retrieve the fault code number that's causing the engine light to come on. They will do this for free. Post the information here, or on one of the many Mazda Protege online forums. There are many enthusiasts for this car who are willing to help.
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    The idle on your car is controlled by the ECU (Computer). If it's idling too high, that means the computer is not doing what it should. One of two possible reasons:
    - The ECU is receiving a bad input, or
    - The ECU is unable to control something it needs to control

    Common problems with inputs
    - The Mass Air Flow sensor carefully measures the amount of air flowing into your engine and provides that information to the ECU. The ECU then meters the appropriate amount of fuel to the engine. Two issues can occur leading to incorrect MAF signal to the ECU
    -- Dirty MAF. A thin wire inside the sensor sometimes gets dirty. It can be cleaned by spraying brake cleaner or electrical cleaner on the wire. Don't touch the wire with anything (not even a q-tip) or you'll break it.
    -- Vacuum leak. A vacuum leak lets excess air into the intake that the ECU doesn't know about. Any vacuum leak will do it, but particularly inspect the large accordion-like pipe between the air cleaner and the engine intake. Cracks sometimes develop in the grooves, and cause air leaks.

    - Bad coolant temperature signal. If the coolant temperature signal is wrong, the ECU will incorrectly adjust for temperature. I don't have any diagnostics for this.

    On the output side
    - Sticky Idle Air Control Valve. Can be removed and cleaned.
    - Sticky EGR Valve. Can be removed and cleaned.

    There are other possible causes, but these are common.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Good summary of the likely suspects!

    Checking for leaks can be done easily; the others (MAF, Idle Air Control valve, EGR valve) might involve some skill.
  • mazdaman23mazdaman23 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 03 Protege LX and for the past year I have smelled antifreeze when I walk in the front of the car. I never see any on the ground, and my water pump was replaced recently, but the faint smell persists. Car never overheats or has any problems. Does anyone else have this problem?
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    Very small leak seems like a good possibility. A close visual inspection with a bright light of all hoses, gaskets, and coolant lines might turn up some evidence of a leak. It's pretty tight in the engine compartment, so you'll only be able to see a percentage of possible locations.

    How's the level in the overflow tank?

    I'd wait for the car to be dead cold, like overnight, then check the level in the radiator. A pinhole leak will eventually lower coolant level - and usually will grow.

    If the coolant isn't going down, you could either wait to see if the leak grows, or take it to a shop to have them try to find it.
  • hooker321hooker321 Member Posts: 13
    MIght be coming from the weep hole on the water pump. BUT its under the timing cover so you will have to remove it to see. The timing cover might be collecting the antifreeze in the bottom. When full enuff it will then drip out. Remove upper and middle timing cover plates and inspect. Also thin old hoses can emit an oder by sweating. Not uncommon either.
  • bbb12bbb12 Member Posts: 1
    The alternator froze when driving shredding the belt. Working on it at home any time I reconnect ed the wires it would run for a short time and freeze up. Took the alt to a shop tested it on the bench ran fine. Took it to another shop in the car, they came back saying it was a bad alt, even thought it ran fine during the time they had it didn't freeze. Computer issue???
  • mazdaman23mazdaman23 Member Posts: 2
    The overflow tank is still full, it could be the weeping from the hoses. I know it can't be the water pump area because when it was replaced they were under there doing all sorts of work. I'll try checking the radiator itself when the car sits. Just find it hard to believe anything would be wrong, CR gave this thing a bulletproof reliability rating!
  • sss400sss400 Member Posts: 1
    cam sensor is the problem. Mine did exactly the same thing and the check engine light came on but the shop said that the reading was not about the cam sensor. But my friend replaced the cam sensor and I had no problems starting the car again. Before that we replaced the O2 sensors (2) and it did not make a difference.
  • clarkwdclarkwd Member Posts: 5
    My little yellow lights work and so do my high beams. The high beam bulbs are also the low beam bulbs. I checked the fuses and they are good. I took out the relay from under the hood in the fuse box and the high beams and low beams didn't work. It was a wet and rainy day so maybe I hit a puddle and got something wet?

    2001 Mazda Protege
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    The high beam bulbs are also the low beam bulbs
    Interesting. I guess Mazda changed this in 2002 because my Protege has separate bulbs for high & low beam.
  • cav4cav4 Member Posts: 3
    Died when driving. engine light went on then died. wont start. doesnt crank. low pitched sound when trying to start. has 220,000 miles and bad seals. Is it solonoid(s), starter, alternator etc?
  • hooker321hooker321 Member Posts: 13
    Hmnmm Try tapping the starter while someone is turning the key. How was the oil level? Sounds like a crank sensor was knocked off. Its located atop the bottum main pully. A credit card distance away from the teeth used to read the crank timing. Ummm Shut down huh???... Um Altinator No Starter No.... Maybe you broke the timing belt! Open the upper plastic inspection cover for the timing belt. You may have a busted belt! Sounds like the engine cranks but the upper half is not turning so it will just make a humming noise..
  • hooker321hooker321 Member Posts: 13
    Fuel pump pressure check at the fuel pump
  • testdummytestdummy Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 Mazda Protege 1.6 liter and when I turn on the AC the belt slips for a few seconds (a really loud screech). However this usually happens when the engine is cold. The belt feels tight to the touch but it must not be. It usually does not slip when the engine is warm.

    I would like to replace the belt as a starting place. If anyone could give me detailed instructions as to how to replace this belt, I would greatly appreciate it.

    Thanks,

    James
  • oldman15oldman15 Member Posts: 43
    It's time for a clutch replacement.
    Anyone have any experience w/ P5 clutch replacement:
    OEM vs. aftermarket?
    prices?
    helpful hints?

    Thanks.
    O15
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    All I can tell you is to buy the best clutch kit money can buy, (OEM or name-brand) because you don't want to be doing this twice.

    As for procedure, I'd recommend that you get a Chilton's Import Repair Manual or a subscription to www.alldatadiy.com, so that you'll know how to do the job step by step.

    It's important to be thorough, for a successful clutch job. So you want to do pressure plate, clutch disk, throwout bearing and pilot bearing, and a close inspection of the flywheel face for cracking, burning, grooves, etc. If the flywheel doesn't look so good, mark its position and remove it for machining or replacment. Also consider flushing your clutch hydraulic system.

    Be sure to work safely.
  • lekyleky Member Posts: 1
    Could you let me know when it's time for me to change the timing belt and how much would that most likely cost me? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Every 60000 miles for the 1.8 DOHC engine. Cost will vary, but book says about 3 hours labor and $60 bucks for the part. Of course, if they replace tensioner, water pump etc (one of those "while we're in there" type of repairs) then the cost can go up accordingly. I think a private repair shop could run this up to $600, and a dealer would be higher or course. But it looks like basic belt + parts @ $100/hr is about $400 bucks out the door. So be sure to check on what you get for the price quoted, and think about what you want to replace "while you're in there".
  • oldman15oldman15 Member Posts: 43
    Mr Shuft,

    Thanks for the info. I'll probably go w/ Mazda, but it looks like I should do the entire kit. Not sure yet if I'll have Dealer or Trans shop do it.

    As per flushing, Is the clutch hydraulic system part of the brake system, a seperate bleed line, or entire seperate system?

    Thanks. O15
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    looks to be all separate, yes.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    the entire kit
    I believe the alternator is another item that you may want to have checked while "they" are there. If it's in good shape, then no worry. If not, it may be worth considering for replacement before it fails (and knocks out a battery or two).
  • baytownmommabaytownmomma Member Posts: 8
    I want to know what could possibly be the problem of a 1995 Mazda Protege burning lean when the diagnostic test says it is the 02 sensors and they have been replaced and it is still burning lean?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    diagnostic codes only point to the system in distress. No computer yet invented for a car will tell you the exact defective part (in most cases). Many an 02 sensor (barrelsful?) is needlessly replaced because they are not properly tested after the codes come up. I don't know what code you got so can't say more, but things like bad/dirty MAF sensor, vacuum leaks, sticking injectors, etc. can all make the 02 sensor unhappy.

    whoever "fixed" your car, guessed wrong.
  • abner33abner33 Member Posts: 2
    I have a Mazda Protege ES with 55K miles on it. I purchased it new. It has always been garaged. Recently every morning when I get it, I put it in reverse and back out into the street, stop and put it in drive. The car will hesitate for about 3 -5 seconds and then go in gear and everything is o.k. for the rest of the day. This happens every day.
    I had a transmission flush and fluid change at the dealer, but it didn't help with this problem. Any suggestions are appreciated.

    Thanks, Abner33
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Mazda Protege ES with 55K miles ... has always been garaged. Recently every morning when I get it, I put it in reverse and back out into the street, stop and put it in drive. The car will hesitate for about 3 -5 seconds and then go in gear and everything is o.k. for the rest of the day

    Do you think the weather may have anything to do with the hesitation? Some garages can get quite cold overnight and cars react to cold weather. You may want to give it a few more seconds to warm up to see if this helps.
  • abner33abner33 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply and suggestion. I don't believe the weather is contributing to the problem.
    I have been experiencing this problem for about a month now. During that time we have had very warm summer type weather and even though we are having lower than normal temps now, it hasn't been below 50 degrees F.

    Abner33
  • baytownmommabaytownmomma Member Posts: 8
    I have replaced my o2 sensors, sparks plugs, wires, rotor, fuel pressure regulator, had throttle body cleaned, and my car is still burning rich. Took it to repair shop and the code comes up PO1170 changed sesors but the problem still exist. Checked the hoses for leaks and there are none. What could it be?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    According to an OBDII website, the code P1170 in the case of Mazda vehicles indicates "HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Circuit Fixed (Bank 1 Sensor 1)". I'm not sure this explanation helps to make things clearer. :confuse:
  • baytownmommabaytownmomma Member Posts: 8
    No this does not help because with that code we have changed both sensors and my car is still making my spark plugs black with soot and we have changed filters, plugs, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, wires and the car is still burning rich. I dont know enough about the fuel injectors. I wondered if they were bad would that make my plugs soot up or even the EGR?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I dont know enough about the fuel injectors. I wondered if they were bad would that make my plugs soot up or even the EGR?
    Sounds like your car needs a diagnostic rather than parts replacement.
  • baytownmommabaytownmomma Member Posts: 8
    I had a diagnostic thru two shops and that code PO1170 is what was given and the car is still burning rich. Running out of optins.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Seems obvious, but I'll ask anyway to eliminate it from the equation: what kind of gas are you using? Is it regular 87 or something else?
  • baytownmommabaytownmomma Member Posts: 8
    I do use 87 gas. But could the catalytic converter throw black smoke on plugs if it is bad?
  • baytownmommabaytownmomma Member Posts: 8
    I have taken my Protege to a mazda dealer and they said that my O2 sensors need to be changed and I have had it done. Is there anyone that has black soot on there plugs know what to do about the problem. I have changed from 87 octane to 92 octane. I have even changed my fuel injectors and when I drive the car starts to putt and blow black soot out of tail pipe desperate. At a limbo.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    black soot on there plugs ... when I drive the car starts to putt and blow black soot out of tail pipe
    Yech, this is starting to sound like the head and maybe even the transmission may be involved. You have mentioned visiting a dealer to discuss the problem. Did they mention anything other than the O2 sensor as the possible cause?
  • cav4cav4 Member Posts: 3
    Actually it doesnt make any sound at all doesnt crank, fire. Thanks. I'll try knocking on the starter next. Will check oil again think it was at the most low. Seems like i heard a small noise when it quit originally. Thanks for the response appreciate it. Will report next results. Thanks.
  • bhahnbhahn Member Posts: 1
    wondering if anyone knows how to fix o/d light blinking on and off and check engine light staying on.seems like the car kicks out of overdrive and goes back in in a minute or so.aready replaced the speed sensor.did not help.any ideas???
  • 2000falcon2000falcon Member Posts: 2
    Hi there. I have a 2002 Protege5 hatch. Nearly a year ago, I lost speed 1,2,3 on my fan speed switch for my ventilation control. I still have speed 4 on the switch.

    I was wondering if this is a common issue to have a switch fail, or possibly something like a relay in the system that is gone. Looking for somewhere to start to fix the issue as winter is fast approaching.

    Thanks in advance.
  • 2000falcon2000falcon Member Posts: 2
    Hi again.

    I have a 2002 Protege5 Hatch, with 5spd tranny.

    I am having intermittent grinding issues when going into 2nd, 3rd and reverse. I might suspect that is COULD be something as simple as a clutch adjustent, but then again I don't know if they're self adjusting or not.

    Seeing as it's intermittent, I wouldn't suspect that the tranny (synchro's) would be bad...???

    So looking for feedback. Clutch adjustment of synchro's??

    The car has 90K miles (140K KM roughly).

    Thanks in advance.
  • 99dx99dx Member Posts: 3
    Noises problem
    1999 Mazda Protege 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 13,333 miles

    2009 i bought a car that was sitting for 3 years (DX 1.6 liter). The tires had flat spots: replaced/resolved.

    I added a couple ounces of Redline Water Dispersant to the Fuel Tank; replaced Timing Belt and Seal; aligned wheels. Added half a tank of High Test when tank was half full and running rough.

    Now I've got a Check Engine Light and an Intermittent Rattle like radio static (The 'stripper' base DX came without a radio or clock) at Idle in Center of Dash! Your thoughts?

    Would Disconnecting the Battery Clear the Code and maybe let it learn to like real gasoline; establish new Parameters? What should a poor man do about these problems? Should I buy a Diagnostic Device? Which one?

    The Dash problem noise? it stopped for a minute after i slapped the Dash ...

    Thank you, Scott.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    o/d light blinking on and off and check engine light staying on ... did not help.any ideas?
    Did you get a diagnostic done? The codes may help narrow down the problem.
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