Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

16869707274

Comments

  • spencer19spencer19 Member Posts: 17
    Mr Shiftright - it wasn't completely dead - I had radio and interior lights and stuff. But thanks for that important info, I'll remember that.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Good! I'd still clean up the battery posts though. I'm not sure messing with the fuses had anything to do with it. I really focus on everything a person says about their problem, and if they (or I) interpret the words differently, then I'm off in another direction. You had said that you got a "small click" when you tried to start it, and that tells me the starter solenoid was getting some juice---so that suggests a fuse was working at that time. The starter relay is fused but not the starter motor.

    Well WHATEVER...important thing is it now works. But check everything over and make sure it's all clean and tight.
  • benybombenybom Member Posts: 1
    CAN ANYBODY HELP

    I have a 2003 Mazda protege and the car won't start!!!

    I've just installed a new starter yesterday cause there was no contact, no clic clic,
    a bit of rust on my old one. So the starter is new, the solenoid is new, the switch
    too and the batterie is new too . The contact or connection from the batterie to the starter is ok. AND still won't work!!! still no clic clic when I turn the key.

    Could it be a bad connection from the key to the switch, or a computer problem, a wire problem. Does anybody got a clue THanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited October 2010
    Hmmmm.....presuming you testing for voltage at the solenoid with a test light, I'll take a stab at a blown fusible link in the engine bay. Some starter solenoids are fused this way.

    Do you have headlights?
  • 99dx99dx Member Posts: 3
    With no answer in sight, I'm respectfully asking your advice on a PO 171 code (lean condition). The car is solid with 14k miles, but until Feb, it was sitting for 3 years at least and to get it, I had to start it with the old gas. My Dad's choice of mechanic has thrown a new MAF and recently a can of something like 'commercial' DRYGAS into it with no results. I put a water dispersant (Amsoil) in as soon as i got the car and recently a can of injector-cleaner. No Luck at this game of darts and the mechanic told me, 'That model car's 1. fuel pressure can't be checked 2. fuel filter can't be changed as it's integral to the in-tank fuel-pump. 3. It could be a million things 3. next step is to change the the in-tank fuel-pump/fuel filter unit which requires dropping the tank $$$$$. I have zero confidence in him and can't afford another 14k mileage vehicle, so

    I'd appreciate your thoughts, please

    Scott (99DX) Schuck sschuc1@yahoo.com
  • jfrankha112jfrankha112 Member Posts: 8
    edited November 2010
    Did you ever find out what was fixed? Or did they not tell you but charged you $600? Is car still working fine?
  • jfrankha112jfrankha112 Member Posts: 8
    Did you ever get your Protege fix? If so what was the final problem?
  • jfrankha112jfrankha112 Member Posts: 8
    Did any of the advice finally fix your car and if so what was the real cause?
  • jfrankha112jfrankha112 Member Posts: 8
    Did you ever get your car fixed, if so what was the final cause?
  • greg_ogreg_o Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Protege 2.0 with 95K miles that is dripping very small amounts of oil. The dealer says the leak is from the oil pump gasket, and the repair would be $1600 because they have to pull the engine and transmission to get to the oil pump. Is this realistic? And if I do get it done, what other work should I consider while the engine is out? The engine is running well, so I'd like to keep the car for a while.

    Greg O.
  • bandaidgoozbandaidgooz Member Posts: 10
    I now have this same problem this morning. How did you repair this problem?
  • clarkwdclarkwd Member Posts: 5
    For me the problem was that for whatever reason, the low beam filament in both of my headlight bulbs burnt out. I replaced the bulbs and it worked fine. It actually happened to me again during another wet day. It hasn't done it since, but take a look at your bulbs and look at the filaments. If replacing the bulbs doesn't work then I really don't know what to tell you. Go to walmart though for headlight bulbs, much cheaper than an auto store.
  • bandaidgoozbandaidgooz Member Posts: 10
    Your suggestion worked! Thank you!
  • lilstylistlilstylist Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Mazda protege - Ive had my car for like 2-3 months after a bad buy... I havent had a problem since I got it- its been upkept by a non smoker- only had 158K on it... oil underneath every year...regular oil changes, etc... Well it was cold one night about 2 weeks ago, and I went to move it to public parking( I live on a main street) and It wouldnt start- so I had to get a boost at 3 am... The next day I found out from an Active Green and Ross close to me and after charge tests- my battery didnt have a high charge so after $150 bucks and an oil change later right after xmas.... I bought a new battery went on my way0- cars been fine since... and than me and my fiancee went about a half an hour outta town to look at a few music stores and while driving my cd player and digital clock were losing power... next my charge light went on in the car... and finALLY the clock and cd player lost all power... praying I got home *being without cables* *timing my foot on the gas near lights* We made it home drove it to my dads and had to reverse in his driveway just in case* because I knew this previously... sure enough I shut off the car and it wont turn over no power nothing..... So I visit with my family with nothing open 5 hours later I go outside and start my car... not needing a boost- which was odd and this didnt happen last time the battery went.... but quickly within five minutes started dying out again.... Currently the car is sitting at the shop- waiting for morning... What do I do? I thought maybe its the belt... not the right size I been told its alittle lose... Im broke and cannot afford anymore money into the car... praying its something in expensive does anyone have any ideas? Its not the alternator or the starter because both are working...just thought id take the long shot and see if I could get a reply before i get it fixed:)
  • clarkwdclarkwd Member Posts: 5
    Yeah I thought so. It's weird though how both just seemed to fry.
  • clarkwdclarkwd Member Posts: 5
    From the way it sounds it sounds like it's something to do with the alternator if the battery isn't holding a charge. I can't think of anything else it could be.
  • amitp1amitp1 Member Posts: 1
    I have Mazda Protege 2002 model. i have check engine light. The codes for check engine light are P0300 and P0431 (OEM number). Car is on with check engine light since a month but lately the light have been flashing and car seems to be less powerful. Car shuts down when I stop at traffic light and sometimes gives push. Except getting tune up can some one suggest what has happened?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited February 2011
    flashing light is not a good sign. You have a misfire and you are probably (potentially) going to damage your catalytic converter---that's why it's flashing right now.

    The cause of misfires are numerous and you have no choice but a step by step diagnosis to eliminate any one of 10+ possible causes.

    In any event, you'd better get on this.

    Causes might include bad crankshaft positioning sensor, bad camshaft positioning sensor, bad coil, bad high tension lead, MAF sensor, vacuum leaks in intake manifold, fuel pump malfunction, fuel pressure regulator malfunction, clogged fuel filter, evaporative emissions system malfunction, PCV malfunction, EGR malfunction, related vacuum hose or wiring harness defects.
  • mld091776mld091776 Member Posts: 1
    What the best diagnostic tool for a 1995 mazda protege 17pin connection?
  • purplrosepurplrose Member Posts: 1
    I have had my 92 protege for a few years now, I never drove a standard or evan a used car before... economy. So in any event would like to know how I can check to see if my transmission is leaking.
  • vncntsbrvncntsbr Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 mazdz protege dx I am having problems with a rough idle and missing after the engine reaches operating temp. I replaced the o2 sensors with a exact fit and the idle got worst. the old one was a denso and the new one is bosch. the enging will miss when i put it in gear or or when the rad fan turns on or the ac. if i increase the idle speed with the gas pedel there is no problem and no missing. the check engine light is not on. can anyone help me
    thanking you in advance
  • sweetlollysweetlolly Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 P5 has been run dry and cooked the rings. I found a used FS engine that is reported to be from 97-98 626 or 01-03 Protege.
    Can anyone confirm if the same bottom end/ short block will work with both these cars? Should be able to swap accessories and get on the road?

    Just to clarify, my P5 gave nearly 300K miles before it was destroyed by a vengfull X spouse.

    Lolly
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You'd best identify it more carefully. The part # for a 2001-2003 Protege short block is the same but the 626 is different.

    so if it's a 2001-2003 Protege engine, that's good, but you should still plan on running into some problems as there are bound to be differences in wiring, sensors, or perhaps even how things bolt onto the block.

    Also don't buy a used engine you can't hear run.
  • super6downsuper6down Member Posts: 2
  • super6downsuper6down Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Mazda Protégé LX 1.6L Engine
    The problem is the cooling fans don’t turn on causing the engine to overheat. Here is what I have done so far. (NOTE: Both R/H and L/H fans turn on/off during A/C cycle operation)
    1. Replaced temperature sensor (2-wire sensor. Only one sensor in car)
    2. Replaced relays with new ones.
    3. Removed and checked all applicable fuses under hood
    4. Removed and checked water pump. No problems found
    5. Flushed Radiator
    6.Got rid of engine thermostat
    7. No radiator leaks detected

    If I remove the temperature sensor harness while the engine is running both fans turns on with A/C switch in OFF position. Then check engine light turns on. I suppose it detects a fault in the circuit and runs on protection mode.

    What will be my next step(s) before replacing the ECM?

    Any advise would be greatly apprecaited.

    Thank You
  • babchevy59babchevy59 Member Posts: 1
    Had same thing with my mazad p5 did the sane things truned out tobe the thermostat I know it dose not sound right but I alot of mony to find out that it was a six dollar part
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    alot of mony to find out that it was a six dollar part

    I was thinking something similar. The replacement of parts mentioned in the email did not seem to be in the order I would have guessed. For example, I would have checked the radiator and thermostat early in the process (cheap and easy to do).

    My advice is to bring it in for a diagnosis by a mechanic, hopefully, one familiar with Mazdas. It may be cheaper than replacing more parts.
  • nickbootnickboot Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at a 2002 Mazda Protege lx with 72,000 miles on it. He is asking 3500$ for it but the blue book is 4100$. What are your opinions about it. It seems like there might be something that's wrong but I don't know
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,145
    Well, we can't see the car either! Have you looked at it or driven it yet?

    If it's in good shape, that seems like a nice price. You might hop over to our Purchasing Used Vehicles discussion to get advice about what to check and how to check.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    2002 Mazda Protege lx with 72,000 miles on it. He is asking 3500$ for it but the blue book is 4100$. What are your opinions about it. It seems like there might be something that's wrong but I don't know

    Why not have it checked by your mechanic? That way you'll reduce the risk of buying someone else's problem.
  • tim_timtim_tim Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Protege. For the past few years (3) I've had my A/C serviced before the beginning of the summer season. Each time (by different service centers) I've been told that nothing is wrong with the system (even though it leaks refrigerant). It gets a full charge of refrigerant but after running for 20-30 minutes the system always freezes up and stops blowing cold air. I can turn the system off for about 5 minutes then turn it back on and it blows cold air for about 10 minutes. I can repeat this cycle indefinitely. I was told yesterday to check my cabin air filter but I can't find that this make/model of vehicle has one. What other solutions are recommended?
  • 1995jdmdc21995jdmdc2 Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem at the shop i work at. The spring for the timing belt tensior came off and got caught in the exhaust cam gear. It made a horrible scratching noise and hesitated around 2500 to 3400 rpm mostly right at 2800rpm until 3k the cam sensor was reading the problem and would shut down injectors and spark just in between 28 and 3k rpm before it was mostly fine and after it was fine so we checked everything i read probably 50 forums on the same thing and could't find a solution hopefully this helps anyone out there reading this. By the way it was an 01 es 2.0 non turbo not to familiar with these cars but that fixed the problem.
  • stmyersstmyers Member Posts: 7
    I have been having issues with my 2003 protege es with only 101K miles on it. back in January, I started hearing a noise, like a rattle when I accelerate. I have had 4 different people look at it, they all say change the gas and the most recent one called it a spark knock, and that I need to change the gas. I HAVE CHANGED THE GAS and it still makes the noise. the noise gets really bad when the car has been running a while. I have had 3 censors replaced this year and my fuel enjectors along with my trans. flushed this year. Does anyone know how to get rid of a spark knock and what causes it?
  • stmyersstmyers Member Posts: 7
    I forgot to ask, mazda tells me my protege does not have a fuel filter, but the place I get my oil changed at says it does, do my 2003 es protege have a fuel filter and if so, how do we change it
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The High Pressure and the Low Pressure Fuel Filters are located in the Fuel Tank on the Fuel Pump Unit, to replace either Fuel Filter you must remove the Fuel Pump from the Fuel Tank.
  • protejay99protejay99 Member Posts: 1
    did you ever figure it out, im having the exact same problem, replaced fuel pump, ign coil still same prob, please let me know if you figured it out, thanks
  • ilovesatria90ilovesatria90 Member Posts: 2
    Hi cmr52305, I just want to say i got the same problem with my 2000 Mazda Protege....and i don't know what cause this? just wonder did you figure out what happened? and how to fix it? please help me...thank you very much you can email me at hoangvu2411@yahoo.com :)
  • ilovesatria90ilovesatria90 Member Posts: 2
    hi protejay99, i just got the same problem with you guys. I just wonder did you guys figure out what wrong with it and how to fix it? please help me cause i'm newbie...thank you very much :)
  • danneskjold1danneskjold1 Member Posts: 1
    The AC belt on my 96 Protege burned off tonight when the AC compressor froze up. I have 240,000 miles on it, so paying hundreds to replace the compressor on what has been a week a/c unit anyway is not going to happen. I was 20 miles from home when this happened and my car ran fine all the way home, except for the power steering not working. Is there an easy fix? Can I just drive it as it is for very long? Can I get a belt that will just make the power steering work? Will the heater still work in the winter?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited September 2011
    So your AC and power steering work off the same belt? Well you'll have to come up with some kind of fix, because you can't use the steering without power assist--you'll end up ruining the box or linkage eventually.

    The AC fix is more than a matter of just a compressor because when it seizes, it throws metal debris throughout the system. So your AC system is totaled and would cost way more than just a compressor.

    However, if you could find a used compressor merely to serve as a pulley system--one that won't seize but may be old and tired, that's a good solution for everything. Since AC compressors have a clutch, all you're doing is running the pulley part of the compressor, dis-engaged from anything...so it won't hurt fuel mileage, etc. Just leave the electrical connector off when you install the "new" used compressor.

    And yes, your heat should work okay.
  • flinticusflinticus Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Protege stick shift w/ 164k mi everything works fine, except for this problem. (There are no lights on the dash of any kind aka the car runs great, [non-permissible content removed] perfectly, and everything else works great.) I have no air flow...PERIOD...the blower motor has continuity (so no blown fuse), and the main fuse in the fuse panel is not blown. I pulled out the HVAC control unit out, and everything looks to be connected properly (as far as I could tell). WHAT ON EARTH COULD THIS BE?! Anyone have an idea?
  • flinticusflinticus Member Posts: 2
  • mazdahelpplsmazdahelppls Member Posts: 1
    Hello cmr52305, I am having the same issue with my Mazda Protege. I was wondering if you have fund the answer to your questions. I am in a state of confusion. I have sent it to so many shops and same answer just more money. Please can you or any one else help me find the answer to this long waiting question.
  • officeangieofficeangie Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 mazda protege LX 175+ miles on it. My parking break seems to be staying on all the time, even without the parking break engaged. Any suggestions on what is causing it before I take in, I like having some idea what's going on before I talk to the so called pros.
  • protegegirlieprotegegirlie Member Posts: 1
    I have a Protege es 2002 and I notice that same rattle but I am being told that my upper cat converter needs to be changed. Crazy cause my car runs great but I did change intake hose, o2 sensor, coil, spark plugs and cleaned MAF and other sensors. I don't hear it all the time and I checked the oil, anti-freeze so I'm starting to think it is my cat converter. Hopefully that will not be your problem.
  • stmyersstmyers Member Posts: 7
    Thanks! I will take it and have them check that. My car runs with no problems other than the noise, which is annoying. This past year I had my injecors flushed,o2 sensors and a few other sensors replaced. The car only has 105k miles on it and I've kept up with all the maintenance, did they say what causes the upper cat to go bad?
  • caulinpricecaulinprice Member Posts: 1
    I was on my way to school and all of a sudden I lost power. The car still drives but it has a lack of power and seems to be sputtering when I stop. Still seems to shift fine, sort of feels like an engine problem. Any ideas of what could cause this lack of power and acceleration?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    edited October 2011
    all of a sudden I lost power. The car ... has a lack of power and seems to be sputtering when I stop.

    A common problem for Proteges is an EGR failure causing the car to stutter or "gasp" for air. The EGR valve is part of the emission system of the car; on my 2002 Protege it was located towards the top of the engine. The fix for a faulty EGR is either cleaning or replacement.

    TIP: Since there can be other causes for this problem, you may want to have a diagnostic done before starting to replace parts.
  • trptrextrptrex Member Posts: 1
    I am having trouble with our 93 protege with 208K miles staling out. It usually starts right up, and then you will be driving it and the rpms go wacky on the gauge and the engine will stall out. It sometimes starts back up but usually it acts like it doesn't want to start then you have to push the gas to the floor to get it to start. It might take a few attempts before it will stay running. It has a new fuel pump and filters? It doesn't do it all the time but you never know. It wouldn't do it for my mechanic when he drove it. It has been doing it everyday this past week? Any suggestions ?
  • mazzy3mazzy3 Member Posts: 1
    once the car warms up, she seems to loose acceleration power. i've had the catatytic convertor cleaned, not the problem. brought her back and had they said these cars are known for mass air flow cylinder(i believe) problems. this got cleaned and still not the problem. then the spark plugs got changed and i was assured she worked now, but once the car got warm same problem> stop at a light and no power at all once i accelerated> then once i got going at around 60 kph started sputtering and loosing powr again> any suggestions before i spend any more money?
Sign In or Register to comment.