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Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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  • I have a set on my 97 Accord. After fixing a problem with my suspension, they have been very quiet, offer a smooth ride and great handling.
    The problem is that they seem to leak air to a higher degree than other tires. I wonder if others are experiencing the same problem. Although my stock alloys with 150K could be part of the problem.
    Thanks
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    You might try spraying a mix of soap and water around the edge of the rim, and watch for bubbles. I'll bet if your having loss of air on multiple tires, you have rim leaks.

    You didn't say where you live, but if you live in an area that uses road salt in the winter, salt starts to corrode aluminum wheels.

    Mrbill
  • Honda Accord 1991 SE.
    I am having a problem getting the car to start. It will turn over and try to start but when I press down on the gas it sounds like it is sucking in large amounts of air. Then I get a light smell of gas.

    Any thoughts?
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    I have an 05 EX-L with the auto climate control. I leave it on all of the time. It won't hurt the engine. It is there so that you have to worry about the temp only. I put mine on 64 which is too cold on my wife's car but it is not on the Honda. The hot air that you are getting is picking up heat from the engine and the underside of your car. Don't worry about anything that is put on as an accessory; just use it and enjoy it.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    The problem with VWs is that they all suffer from poorly designed/manufactured ignition coils. It is a weakness with both the Passat and the Jetta and it makes for lots of saddy faces on the side of the road during my commute. Electrical gremlins are the worst. I'll take my Honda Rattletrap anytime over a Passat b/c I know it will merry rattle me wherever I want to go every time.

    -FS
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    '04 Accord V-6 Coupe (MT) - getting a squeak from the front suspension area on the passenger side - its only happening (or noticeable) once the car is warmed up at 25-30 miles an hour and tends to be subsumed by road noise the faster I go.

    Any ideas as to what to check?

    Thanks!
  • ebykebyk Posts: 7
    I have a 99 accord. In the last few months I have noticed that when I start the car in the morning and when i start it in the afternnon after a prolonged period of rest the engine fails to respond after I press on the gas after having put the car in drive. It shudders and almost comes to a halt or takes a few minutes to respond properly. There is no starting problem. Turn the keys and the engine starts. There is no noice difference. Press on the accelerator without putting the car in drive the engine responds properly. I raised this issue with Honda service but when I take the car to them there is no problem so they return saying they did not find any. I am very frustrated. I need some expert advice or if someone has ever encountered similar problem please let me know what they did :cry: :mad: :confuse: .
  • Yes - I think I can help a bit (hopefully).

    It's hard to compare squeak noises since I can't hear yours but I had a very similar problem just 2 weeks ago with my 05 accord coupe. Here were my symptoms:

    *Squeak at low speeds - ESPECIALLY going over speed bumps at a reasonable speed (reasonable meaning SLOWLY, not flying over them).
    *Squeak at speeds below 45ish on small bumps/cracks/uneven surfaces.
    *Squeaks coming onto or off of concrete aprons leading onto or out of a parking lot, driveway, etc.
    *NO squeak when I manually bounce the suspension (rear, in my case) up & down as hard as I could.

    I took the car to my local dealer and service folks initially thought they fixed the problem by tightening a loose control arm bolt. Unfortunately that didn't fix anything, so I requested that a service tech ride with me so that I could point out the problem. After going over a few cracks and several speed bumps, the tech knew what sound to look for. He spent 5 hours working on the suspension with another tech and still couldn't pinpoint the problem - so he experimented with replacing the rear struts - and it turned out that my left rear strut was the squeaker. Now I've got a new strut and things are just fine.

    Also, search this area for other strut/squeak stories because I think someone else had the exact same problem and their strut was also to blame.

    GOOD LUCK!
  • srobaksrobak Posts: 96
    Ok - I need to recant my statement a bit... after seeing what people posted here regarding the Passat...

    I went back and checked and it was NOT the Passat that got the ravest reviews in the 2005 CR new/used car guide, but the Audi A4 - which I was also considering. The most amusing part about this however - is that it is the *same*exact*car* as the Passat. Same engine. Same trans. Same suspension. Same electrical... the only differences are minor body panel changes and emblems. This leads me to believe that things like CR are a bunch of crap.
  • srobaksrobak Posts: 96
    This is actually (still) a common problem with aluminum rims. Remove the rubber, use 1000 grit sandpaper or some SOS/brillo pads and go all the way around the rim at the mating surface about 10 times.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    A leaking head gasket can allow coolent to enter the cylinder/s which is then forced out the exhaust.

    Mrbill
  • I would agree with what you said about CR, except that the same thing happened for years with the Ford Taurus and it's Mercury counterpart. Not just with CR but with other magazines as well. It was known in the industry that the Mercury was the better car even though the two had the same parts. Hey, go figure.
  • Sounds like problem I had w/ 99 Accord last yr. The dealer said it was front struts (altho only 60K miles on it) and replaced them. Still squeaked--esp in rain or very cold weather, when turning or going over bumps (slowly) and at low speeds on front passenger side.

    It ended up being the front end tie rods. THAT repair was more than the struts but the dealer ate it since I'd already paid for new struts that were not needed.

    I diagnosed this after research on the web but dealer acted like I was crazy until it ended up being the problem.
  • kazumakazuma Posts: 50
    i have a 1990 accord ex. i went through similar problems.

    make sure u are getting fuel.
    make sure u are getting air.
    make sure u are getting spark.

    i dont know how hands on u are about working on it so... is it fuel injected? is it carburator? when ur holding the pedle down u are opening the throtle body which is the main air intake. so u probally will hear something, but it shouldnt be to loud i wouldnt think. and if its carburated holding down the peddle dumps gas into the intake and any unspent fuel vapors will be noticible. if its fuel injected, check for a leak in your fuel lines. when u turn the key the pump starts, pressurizing the lines. any leaks and gas will drip, hence smell of gas.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    srobak,

    I'm puzzled by your post #11721 comment "it was NOT the Passat that got the ravest reviews in the 2005 CR new/used car guide, but the Audi A4" If you read the CR Reliability Scores for the Audi A4 (V6), the '97 through'00 models and the '02 & '03's all received a Black X Reliability Verdict (Worse-than-average reliability for those years). The '01s received a Gray Dash - Reliability Verdict (Average reliability for that year).

    The '04's (with an average of less than six months of age and under 3,000 miles of use) received a Red check (Better than average reliability for that year).

    Electrical, power equipment and brakes were the most commonly reported (by owners) problem areas in the survey results.

    You also wrote "This leads me to believe that things like CR are a bunch of crap." Please realize that it is not Consumer Reports that is rating the surveyed vehicles. They are just compiling the roughly 810,000 owner/driver responses to the annual survey, and printing the resulting charts. This is what drivers, like you and me, are writing about their personal vehicles. That is very important to understand, and why the statistics are worth incorporating into a personal buying decision.
  • kazumakazuma Posts: 50
    your wipers are on a fuse, check ur fuses and replace as nessasary. if ur fuses are ok then check the control arms that connect them to the wiper motor itself. if thats ok then check the motor itself.

    now i dont know if u'v checked but, even though your tires are a large part of the handling aspects of a car there are several components under the front that contribute in a big way. have u checked your control arm, the cvc joints, tie rods, bearings, ur front suspension sounds like the culprit not the tires.

    i dont know what codes ur getting so i cant really help with that. go to autozone and get it checked and post the codes in hear, ull be more likly to get a response if we know the codes and could offer some advice.

    good luck
  • Hi turbobeatbox:

    I had the same problem of the wipers with my 03 Accord. Out of the blue- no wipers. :sick:

    It turned out to be the motor. The warranty took care of it. I was on a national backorder list so Honda paid for a rental. Was told it would take up to 3 weeks, but the dealership was able to get the part within 10 days.

    Good luck. Hopefully you won't have to wait too long.
  • geoshillgeoshill Posts: 27
    I still have a problem with throttle sticking on my Y2K V6 EX. Has anybody figured out how to stop the sticking problem?
  • dgsxrrdgsxrr Posts: 20
    I just purchased a 2002 Accord EX coupe (had it only 2-weeks) and had a fully insured driver pull out in front of me. I've been fighting with her ins. co. for new/not used parts. The isu. agent told me today that I was too picky and that he had called the Honda dealer where I had just bought the car, and the car got towed to, that they and his co. didn't want to deal with me. He left a message to call my isu. co. to tow my car somewhere else and they could fix it. My isu. just keeps telling me to talk to the other and let them know how it works out. I'll be canning my worthless isu. when the mud clears.
  • kazumakazuma Posts: 50
    1) check the clearance of the foot pedle near the floor, look to see if its catching on anything, or if the spring mount for the pedle itself is catching or binding

    2) check the cable, atached to the foot pedle is a cable, follow it and chack for kinks or binds or anything all the way to the throttle body.

    3) check the throttle body lever its self, make sure its not catching or binding itself.

    4) try giving every moving joint, from peddle to throtle bodie, a little shot of WD-40 and giving it all a little wiggle to see if it free's any thing up for you at all.
  • nazknazk Posts: 1
    My fan works only on setting 4!! Does that mean I need a new fan or just some kind of switch? Also, my AC doesn't seem to cool the car. Do I need Freon> Is there a leak somewhere.

    One mechanic told me I need a new fan, another said may be it is just the switch. Anyone have any ideas before I go spend my money. Thanks.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Resistor is bad in the switch. I doubt you need a new fan. I had the same exact issue with a Nissan Maxima and a Mazda. The resistor is what steps down the voltage to allow the fan to run at a slower speed.

    A/C doesn't cool. Well, it could lack refrigerant. Could be other things, too. How many miles on the car?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    fan motors are only 2 wire connection, which means it takes something external to make the different speeds.

    As stated in the previous posts, they use resistors to drop the voltage to the motor, giving you different speeds. The lower the speed, the greater voltage that needs to be dropped by the resistor, so the bigger chance it will evetually fail.

    I don't know if Honda has the resistors attached to the switch or not, other manufacturers use a resistor module that is mounted on the ductwork. They do get hot!! and because of that, they mount them in the ductwork so the airflow cools them off.

    You might see if the dealer has the module, see what it looks like, then check the ductwork and see if you can find it. If they do use resistors at the switch, it may be harder to get to.

    As far as the A/C not cooling, Honda did use a sightglass in some of it's cars which show if there is enough R134A in it or not. My 88 had a sightglass, but my 04 does not, so I don't know if your 97 does.

    Mrbill
  • ekcotbsekcotbs Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Accord EX manual 120k , and ever since last winter my car has been constanly revving while its running , it revs between 1000k and 2500k and it is very audible in neutral and in low gears causes the car to jerk , I had a friend that works at a small auto shop give his opinion on it and he seems to think its a cold start valve , which he said can only be replaced at a honda dealership. I has recently been harder and harder to start , and i just replaced spark plugs and battery. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANKS
  • ebykebyk Posts: 7
    I have a 99 accord. In the last few months I have noticed that when I start the car in the morning and when i start it in the afternnon after a prolonged period of rest the engine fails to respond after I press on the gas after having put the car in drive. It shudders and almost comes to a halt or takes a few minutes to respond properly. There is no starting problem. Turn the keys and the engine starts. There is no noice difference. Press on the accelerator without putting the car in drive the engine responds properly. Also the problem is not present when the car moves after stopping at a stop sign.
    I raised this issue with Honda service but when I take the car to them there is no problem so they return saying they did not find any. I am very frustrated. I need some expert advice or if someone has ever encountered similar problem please let me know what they did.

    :confuse: :cry:
  • snowfulsnowful Posts: 53
    I have 45000 miles on my 03 Accord EX coupe and had to get a new alternator. Has anyone else had to replace theirs this early? Just curious...
  • kazumakazuma Posts: 50
    it almost sounds like the same problem as my 90' accord. the fast idle valve cloged and the retainer inside unscrewed itself, causing a high idle lope and the car would give its own gas. i fixed it by taking it off unclogging it and retightning the retainer. u may want to look into ur fast idle valve. mine was located on the intake manifold, driver side. it bolted on to the intake. urs may be broke or maybe if ur luky it'll be an easy fix. but im sure u dont have to take it to a dealership to fix it.
  • Have you tried putting it in neutral when it starts to stall??? Your transmission could be sticking when cold(and not completely lubed up) I have a Peugeot 306 (living in the UK currently) that was doing the same thing and I just drained and flushed the tranny fluid and haven't had any problems since.

    Hope this helps.

    Chris
  • I looked at a new Accord coupe at a dealer this afternoon.
    It must have come from another dealership since it had glue residue from the decal/sticker/emblem at the left rear.
    I will ask them about correcting it but was wondering...

    Can it be cleaned-up with no damage to the red paint?
    Any idea how the dealer would fix it?

    It looked like the front hood is lightly scratched.
    Can it be corrected?
    Again, how would the dealer fix it?

    What would the long term affect be on the paint/appearance?
    I keep my cars at least 10 years.

    Thanks,
    S
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    Glue from the sticker is safe to remove. I removed my sticker the minute I got my new car home. A little WD-40 and a rag will soften it up, then the glue rubs off. There is also a product called GOO-GONE which is designed to remove adhesive. Sounds like someone at the dealer got a little lazy,

    As far as the scratches, as long as they are not too deep, they should be able to be rubbed out without any long term problems. If they are deep, then the hood may need repainting. As long as it is done right, the hood should be just fine.

    Mrbill
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