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Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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Comments

  • techman41973techman41973 Member Posts: 83
    I have a set on my 97 Accord. After fixing a problem with my suspension, they have been very quiet, offer a smooth ride and great handling.
    The problem is that they seem to leak air to a higher degree than other tires. I wonder if others are experiencing the same problem. Although my stock alloys with 150K could be part of the problem.
    Thanks
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    You might try spraying a mix of soap and water around the edge of the rim, and watch for bubbles. I'll bet if your having loss of air on multiple tires, you have rim leaks.

    You didn't say where you live, but if you live in an area that uses road salt in the winter, salt starts to corrode aluminum wheels.

    Mrbill
  • miller11miller11 Member Posts: 1
    Honda Accord 1991 SE.
    I am having a problem getting the car to start. It will turn over and try to start but when I press down on the gas it sounds like it is sucking in large amounts of air. Then I get a light smell of gas.

    Any thoughts?
  • temj12temj12 Member Posts: 450
    I have an 05 EX-L with the auto climate control. I leave it on all of the time. It won't hurt the engine. It is there so that you have to worry about the temp only. I put mine on 64 which is too cold on my wife's car but it is not on the Honda. The hot air that you are getting is picking up heat from the engine and the underside of your car. Don't worry about anything that is put on as an accessory; just use it and enjoy it.
  • hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    The problem with VWs is that they all suffer from poorly designed/manufactured ignition coils. It is a weakness with both the Passat and the Jetta and it makes for lots of saddy faces on the side of the road during my commute. Electrical gremlins are the worst. I'll take my Honda Rattletrap anytime over a Passat b/c I know it will merry rattle me wherever I want to go every time.

    -FS
  • hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    '04 Accord V-6 Coupe (MT) - getting a squeak from the front suspension area on the passenger side - its only happening (or noticeable) once the car is warmed up at 25-30 miles an hour and tends to be subsumed by road noise the faster I go.

    Any ideas as to what to check?

    Thanks!
  • ebykebyk Member Posts: 7
    I have a 99 accord. In the last few months I have noticed that when I start the car in the morning and when i start it in the afternnon after a prolonged period of rest the engine fails to respond after I press on the gas after having put the car in drive. It shudders and almost comes to a halt or takes a few minutes to respond properly. There is no starting problem. Turn the keys and the engine starts. There is no noice difference. Press on the accelerator without putting the car in drive the engine responds properly. I raised this issue with Honda service but when I take the car to them there is no problem so they return saying they did not find any. I am very frustrated. I need some expert advice or if someone has ever encountered similar problem please let me know what they did :cry: :mad: :confuse: .
  • accord6mtaccord6mt Member Posts: 53
    Yes - I think I can help a bit (hopefully).

    It's hard to compare squeak noises since I can't hear yours but I had a very similar problem just 2 weeks ago with my 05 accord coupe. Here were my symptoms:

    *Squeak at low speeds - ESPECIALLY going over speed bumps at a reasonable speed (reasonable meaning SLOWLY, not flying over them).
    *Squeak at speeds below 45ish on small bumps/cracks/uneven surfaces.
    *Squeaks coming onto or off of concrete aprons leading onto or out of a parking lot, driveway, etc.
    *NO squeak when I manually bounce the suspension (rear, in my case) up & down as hard as I could.

    I took the car to my local dealer and service folks initially thought they fixed the problem by tightening a loose control arm bolt. Unfortunately that didn't fix anything, so I requested that a service tech ride with me so that I could point out the problem. After going over a few cracks and several speed bumps, the tech knew what sound to look for. He spent 5 hours working on the suspension with another tech and still couldn't pinpoint the problem - so he experimented with replacing the rear struts - and it turned out that my left rear strut was the squeaker. Now I've got a new strut and things are just fine.

    Also, search this area for other strut/squeak stories because I think someone else had the exact same problem and their strut was also to blame.

    GOOD LUCK!
  • srobaksrobak Member Posts: 96
    Ok - I need to recant my statement a bit... after seeing what people posted here regarding the Passat...

    I went back and checked and it was NOT the Passat that got the ravest reviews in the 2005 CR new/used car guide, but the Audi A4 - which I was also considering. The most amusing part about this however - is that it is the *same*exact*car* as the Passat. Same engine. Same trans. Same suspension. Same electrical... the only differences are minor body panel changes and emblems. This leads me to believe that things like CR are a bunch of crap.
  • srobaksrobak Member Posts: 96
    This is actually (still) a common problem with aluminum rims. Remove the rubber, use 1000 grit sandpaper or some SOS/brillo pads and go all the way around the rim at the mating surface about 10 times.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    A leaking head gasket can allow coolent to enter the cylinder/s which is then forced out the exhaust.

    Mrbill
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    I would agree with what you said about CR, except that the same thing happened for years with the Ford Taurus and it's Mercury counterpart. Not just with CR but with other magazines as well. It was known in the industry that the Mercury was the better car even though the two had the same parts. Hey, go figure.
  • nogoodaccordnogoodaccord Member Posts: 1
    Sounds like problem I had w/ 99 Accord last yr. The dealer said it was front struts (altho only 60K miles on it) and replaced them. Still squeaked--esp in rain or very cold weather, when turning or going over bumps (slowly) and at low speeds on front passenger side.

    It ended up being the front end tie rods. THAT repair was more than the struts but the dealer ate it since I'd already paid for new struts that were not needed.

    I diagnosed this after research on the web but dealer acted like I was crazy until it ended up being the problem.
  • kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    i have a 1990 accord ex. i went through similar problems.

    make sure u are getting fuel.
    make sure u are getting air.
    make sure u are getting spark.

    i dont know how hands on u are about working on it so... is it fuel injected? is it carburator? when ur holding the pedle down u are opening the throtle body which is the main air intake. so u probally will hear something, but it shouldnt be to loud i wouldnt think. and if its carburated holding down the peddle dumps gas into the intake and any unspent fuel vapors will be noticible. if its fuel injected, check for a leak in your fuel lines. when u turn the key the pump starts, pressurizing the lines. any leaks and gas will drip, hence smell of gas.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    srobak,

    I'm puzzled by your post #11721 comment "it was NOT the Passat that got the ravest reviews in the 2005 CR new/used car guide, but the Audi A4" If you read the CR Reliability Scores for the Audi A4 (V6), the '97 through'00 models and the '02 & '03's all received a Black X Reliability Verdict (Worse-than-average reliability for those years). The '01s received a Gray Dash - Reliability Verdict (Average reliability for that year).

    The '04's (with an average of less than six months of age and under 3,000 miles of use) received a Red check (Better than average reliability for that year).

    Electrical, power equipment and brakes were the most commonly reported (by owners) problem areas in the survey results.

    You also wrote "This leads me to believe that things like CR are a bunch of crap." Please realize that it is not Consumer Reports that is rating the surveyed vehicles. They are just compiling the roughly 810,000 owner/driver responses to the annual survey, and printing the resulting charts. This is what drivers, like you and me, are writing about their personal vehicles. That is very important to understand, and why the statistics are worth incorporating into a personal buying decision.
  • kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    your wipers are on a fuse, check ur fuses and replace as nessasary. if ur fuses are ok then check the control arms that connect them to the wiper motor itself. if thats ok then check the motor itself.

    now i dont know if u'v checked but, even though your tires are a large part of the handling aspects of a car there are several components under the front that contribute in a big way. have u checked your control arm, the cvc joints, tie rods, bearings, ur front suspension sounds like the culprit not the tires.

    i dont know what codes ur getting so i cant really help with that. go to autozone and get it checked and post the codes in hear, ull be more likly to get a response if we know the codes and could offer some advice.

    good luck
  • miamirocksmiamirocks Member Posts: 17
    Hi turbobeatbox:

    I had the same problem of the wipers with my 03 Accord. Out of the blue- no wipers. :sick:

    It turned out to be the motor. The warranty took care of it. I was on a national backorder list so Honda paid for a rental. Was told it would take up to 3 weeks, but the dealership was able to get the part within 10 days.

    Good luck. Hopefully you won't have to wait too long.
  • geoshillgeoshill Member Posts: 27
    I still have a problem with throttle sticking on my Y2K V6 EX. Has anybody figured out how to stop the sticking problem?
  • dgsxrrdgsxrr Member Posts: 20
    I just purchased a 2002 Accord EX coupe (had it only 2-weeks) and had a fully insured driver pull out in front of me. I've been fighting with her ins. co. for new/not used parts. The isu. agent told me today that I was too picky and that he had called the Honda dealer where I had just bought the car, and the car got towed to, that they and his co. didn't want to deal with me. He left a message to call my isu. co. to tow my car somewhere else and they could fix it. My isu. just keeps telling me to talk to the other and let them know how it works out. I'll be canning my worthless isu. when the mud clears.
  • kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    1) check the clearance of the foot pedle near the floor, look to see if its catching on anything, or if the spring mount for the pedle itself is catching or binding

    2) check the cable, atached to the foot pedle is a cable, follow it and chack for kinks or binds or anything all the way to the throttle body.

    3) check the throttle body lever its self, make sure its not catching or binding itself.

    4) try giving every moving joint, from peddle to throtle bodie, a little shot of WD-40 and giving it all a little wiggle to see if it free's any thing up for you at all.
  • nazknazk Member Posts: 1
    My fan works only on setting 4!! Does that mean I need a new fan or just some kind of switch? Also, my AC doesn't seem to cool the car. Do I need Freon> Is there a leak somewhere.

    One mechanic told me I need a new fan, another said may be it is just the switch. Anyone have any ideas before I go spend my money. Thanks.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Resistor is bad in the switch. I doubt you need a new fan. I had the same exact issue with a Nissan Maxima and a Mazda. The resistor is what steps down the voltage to allow the fan to run at a slower speed.

    A/C doesn't cool. Well, it could lack refrigerant. Could be other things, too. How many miles on the car?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    fan motors are only 2 wire connection, which means it takes something external to make the different speeds.

    As stated in the previous posts, they use resistors to drop the voltage to the motor, giving you different speeds. The lower the speed, the greater voltage that needs to be dropped by the resistor, so the bigger chance it will evetually fail.

    I don't know if Honda has the resistors attached to the switch or not, other manufacturers use a resistor module that is mounted on the ductwork. They do get hot!! and because of that, they mount them in the ductwork so the airflow cools them off.

    You might see if the dealer has the module, see what it looks like, then check the ductwork and see if you can find it. If they do use resistors at the switch, it may be harder to get to.

    As far as the A/C not cooling, Honda did use a sightglass in some of it's cars which show if there is enough R134A in it or not. My 88 had a sightglass, but my 04 does not, so I don't know if your 97 does.

    Mrbill
  • ekcotbsekcotbs Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Accord EX manual 120k , and ever since last winter my car has been constanly revving while its running , it revs between 1000k and 2500k and it is very audible in neutral and in low gears causes the car to jerk , I had a friend that works at a small auto shop give his opinion on it and he seems to think its a cold start valve , which he said can only be replaced at a honda dealership. I has recently been harder and harder to start , and i just replaced spark plugs and battery. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANKS
  • ebykebyk Member Posts: 7
    I have a 99 accord. In the last few months I have noticed that when I start the car in the morning and when i start it in the afternnon after a prolonged period of rest the engine fails to respond after I press on the gas after having put the car in drive. It shudders and almost comes to a halt or takes a few minutes to respond properly. There is no starting problem. Turn the keys and the engine starts. There is no noice difference. Press on the accelerator without putting the car in drive the engine responds properly. Also the problem is not present when the car moves after stopping at a stop sign.
    I raised this issue with Honda service but when I take the car to them there is no problem so they return saying they did not find any. I am very frustrated. I need some expert advice or if someone has ever encountered similar problem please let me know what they did.

    :confuse: :cry:
  • snowfulsnowful Member Posts: 53
    I have 45000 miles on my 03 Accord EX coupe and had to get a new alternator. Has anyone else had to replace theirs this early? Just curious...
  • kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    it almost sounds like the same problem as my 90' accord. the fast idle valve cloged and the retainer inside unscrewed itself, causing a high idle lope and the car would give its own gas. i fixed it by taking it off unclogging it and retightning the retainer. u may want to look into ur fast idle valve. mine was located on the intake manifold, driver side. it bolted on to the intake. urs may be broke or maybe if ur luky it'll be an easy fix. but im sure u dont have to take it to a dealership to fix it.
  • usafgarrettusafgarrett Member Posts: 6
    Have you tried putting it in neutral when it starts to stall??? Your transmission could be sticking when cold(and not completely lubed up) I have a Peugeot 306 (living in the UK currently) that was doing the same thing and I just drained and flushed the tranny fluid and haven't had any problems since.

    Hope this helps.

    Chris
  • suzannaflsuzannafl Member Posts: 84
    I looked at a new Accord coupe at a dealer this afternoon.
    It must have come from another dealership since it had glue residue from the decal/sticker/emblem at the left rear.
    I will ask them about correcting it but was wondering...

    Can it be cleaned-up with no damage to the red paint?
    Any idea how the dealer would fix it?

    It looked like the front hood is lightly scratched.
    Can it be corrected?
    Again, how would the dealer fix it?

    What would the long term affect be on the paint/appearance?
    I keep my cars at least 10 years.

    Thanks,
    S
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Glue from the sticker is safe to remove. I removed my sticker the minute I got my new car home. A little WD-40 and a rag will soften it up, then the glue rubs off. There is also a product called GOO-GONE which is designed to remove adhesive. Sounds like someone at the dealer got a little lazy,

    As far as the scratches, as long as they are not too deep, they should be able to be rubbed out without any long term problems. If they are deep, then the hood may need repainting. As long as it is done right, the hood should be just fine.

    Mrbill
  • turbobeatboxturbobeatbox Member Posts: 2
    I just got my car back from the honda dealer (not the one who sold me the car) well, the check engine light ended up only being caused by a loose gas cap. the honda dealer told me that my alignment was way off even though I just had it done from someone else. They searched all of the suspension components to make sure that wasn't the cause. They told me the thing was driving straight. . Well the damn thing still pulls mega-hard to the right. This is so frustrating, after all of the time and $ i've put into it.

    What else could cause my accord to pull to the right? I've had it aligned multiple times, the tires changed, and now I've had the suspension checked out.
  • mlewandowskimlewandowski Member Posts: 18
    This car has a rattle in the front passenger head rest that the dealer and I cannot fix.
    if pressure is applied to the rear of the head rest the sound goes away. Anyone have any ideas?
  • hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    There aren't differences between the cars so much as differences between the people who drive them. A lot of the differences reported by CR depend on the demographics of the buyers they're surveying. Who is more likely to complain about a problem? Whose complaint is a dealer more likely to repair? For example, Buick enjoys the highest statistical reliability of any GM brand - but factor into it that Buick's target (or at least recipient) demographic appears to shift far more towards seniors than, say Chevy or Pontiac, and then factor in that these are people who drive less than a working parent with 3 kids and therefore probably less likely to notice a problem or complain even if they do - and it skews the statistic.

    And Audi is not a brand that I would anecdotally associate with high reliability in any model - regardless of what stats say. My experience suggest that Audis are "Innies" as in "in the shop" a lot.

    Of course, when a domestic automaker comes out with a new car, CR puts "NEW" in the reliability rating, even if its based on a provedly reliable 10 year old platform with the same pushrod V-6 that's been in production since 1978 (can you say Buick LaCrosse (nee Century/Regal)?). Of course, if it was a 1st year new model Camry or Accord, CR might predict "BETTER THAN AVERAGE" even though they've never tested the actual vehicle. CR definitely has its biases, even without advertising.
  • stevennj1stevennj1 Member Posts: 2
    Just Got My New Car 3 Weeks Ago. Brakes Felt Like The Rotors Where Worped. I Brought The Car Back and Was Told At 100 Miles That The Pads Have To Wear In . I Just Got Back To Day To The Dealer To Pick Up My Plates And The Car Has 900 Miles On It. The Dealer Test Dove It And The Roters Need To Be Cut. I Told The Dealer I Want New Rotors, But Thay Say Honda Will Only Pay To Cut Them. If Any One Works At A Honda Dealer ,please Give Me Some Help On This . Also That Stated The Rotor Worp Becouse I Brought A Left Over 05 New ,that Was Made 11/4 And Was Parked In There Lots And The Rotors Rust????. The Car Had 5 Miles On It When I Got It Thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    > Buick enjoys the highest statistical reliability of any GM brand - but factor into it that Buick's target (or at least recipient) demographic appears to shift far more towards seniors than, say Chevy or Pontiac, and then factor in that these are people who drive less than a working parent with 3 kids and therefore probably less likely to notice a problem or complain even if they do - and it skews the
    statistic.

    I see it just the opposite. The busy commuter, the mother who hustles three kids into and out of a car for the grocery, school, soccer practice, all these note less the quirks their car developes than the alleged older Buick driver who probably has more time and drives more miles than the local driver (ever notice who's at the motels when you travel?) and actually complain more. Who has time to stop at the dealer for their car to be worked on and wait for is for 3-4 hours and then go back in two days if it's not right--worker, working mom--NOT. The older person.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    I hear your point - but that argument can be made two ways - as a person who moved to home 50 miles from my job 8 years ago, after living less than 3 miles from the office for almost 4years, I began noticing more problems in my car BECAUSE I spend so much more time in it and am driving it more than ever before. However, a senior with, say a Buick Century 3.1 ltr. V-6 who only drives 6,000 miles a year is less likely to hit that head gasket problem (which seems to rear its ugly head for most cars between 35k and 75k) quickly than someone like me who has 31k on an '04 Accord I bought in late May of 2004.

    This is why, when I was in college, the required course on Statistics was called "Sadistics." ;)
  • 1dwarf641dwarf64 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a '05 Accord EX V6 and I noticed that Honda's QA is REALLY not acceptable. My dashboard, steering column, and steering wheel are all slanted. If you could imagine, the 3 components are rotated around 2-3 degrees to the right. Thus, whenever the steering wheel "centers" after completing a turn, it's always "centering" slightly to the right. A second thing is that the steering wheel seems to be "pointing" to the left. When holding onto the steering wheel, my right arm is reaching further than my left. I find myself compensating for it by sitting with my torso leaning to the right. Does anyone have this problem? I've went to 3 different service centers and all of them claims that all other 05 are made the same way and thus refused to fix it. I mean, just because all of them are made the same way doesn't mean there isn't a problem. PLEASE HELP!!
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    1dwarf64,

    Have you sat in similar vehicles on the lot at your Honda dealer? Sitting in several will clearly illustrate if they are the same as, or diffent from, yours.
  • 1dwarf641dwarf64 Member Posts: 2
    The dealer showed me another one and I find it slightly better than mine. Although there is still the slanted dashboard, the steering wheel/column seemed to be aligned correctly. However, the service manager insists that he sees no differences. It's really frustrating...because they are the ones that make the decision as to whether to service the vehicle, not me.
  • geoshillgeoshill Member Posts: 27
    I did all of the suggested tests and found the sticking to be in the butterfly valve in the air horn.It inhails soot I guess and the chamber gets sticky.Can I disconnect all those hoses to s top the sticking?
  • pontdulacpontdulac Member Posts: 1
    UGH! I am having the same problem! Actually, this problem surfaced before and then went away. It's been about a year and now it's back. Seems to occur in the summer? on hot and humid days? That's probably just coincidence.

    Anyway, over the past few weeks, my TCS light started to act up again. It would come on when I stepped hard on the brakes. Then it came on at weird times when I was not stepping on the brake. I ask the dealer to look at it every time I go in for an oil change, etc. They always tell me there's nothing wrong. Now, (again) the gear shift button is sticking and the TCS light comes on at the time of ignition. When I brought up the gear shifting issue last year they told me there was nothing wrong. I have found that starting the car about 3 times and pumping on the brake clears the gear shift problem, but not the light.

    I am taking my car in on 8/18/05 since I am now having a terrible time getting the car to move out of park. I will update you on what happens/what they tell me. I already told them I will not accept my car from the shop until either they fix the problem, or replace the TCS system and/or transmission.

    Of note, I had a similar problem with my Volvo a few years back and it turned out the transmission needed to be replaced. :mad:

    And regarding the brakes...don't get me started.......

    Best of luck.
  • rhaeffelerhaeffele Member Posts: 149
    Have you tried a different dealer? Not all service departments are created equal in the sight of owners . . .
  • geehondageehonda Member Posts: 2
    98 honda accord lx-manual transmission. 4-cyl 98,000 miles. Parked in driveway with an uphill grade. I shifted into reverse, let out clutch and the car stalled. It was locked in the reverse position. could not shift out and car would not roll backwards with clutch depressed. Had tow driver pull car out to street and level grade. I depressed clutch, car rolled forward, shift lever moved to first gear position, car started and it drove fine.

    Anyone have info on this problem?
  • kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    well turbo, assuming ur tires are A+ (no out of roundness or tread seperation), assuming ur rims are A+ (all lug nuts in place, no real damage and balanced), assuming that no front end suspension components are damaged or faulty or mis-adjusted, i really cant say much with out actually being in the car. i mean those 3 thing are the main components of ur handling, steering, cornering, and overall control of ur car. elbows connected to the knee bone u know. if ur headlight goes out, ur door doesnt come of the hinge, get the idea.

    does this symptom occur at high speeds or all speeds? if it at high speeds maybe, but highly unlikly, ther's damage to the front arrowdynamics of ur car, like i said very unlikly so u can almost certainly rule that option off. i would say perhaps, and once again highly unlikly, theres a problem with ur power steering, but since u really can tell when thats goin out and it affects left and right, once agian thats so uncertain u can check it off as well.

    if its at all speeds.. short of specificly taking a honda tech from the dealership for a ride and showing him the problem while ur behind the wheel, i really dont know.

    its a grandfather clock of components, all the clogs work with eachother to give u the time of day, but the clock store says the clogs are fine yet every day ur still 10 min off. think i read not to recetnly of a post where the guy said he requested a tech for a ride along, give it a try. whats to lose! show him, be persistant, and remember that the customer is always right. but dont let them dive to deep into ur poket either, this problem should not, could not, and better not cost an arm and a leg. please keep me posted and good luck!!!
  • kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    do u know what the dry wieght of that car is? its like a ton or almost! now imagine full of fluids and a driver, whats the weight now? for what ever reason ur stall, u dropped alot of weight into ur gear and it stuck. u probally could have just had a couple of buddy's push the car forward a bit and got it out of gear and u'd been fine. hope that doesnt happen often though, ouch. it was just the incline+stall+in gear=stuck!
  • kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    when was ur last tune up? plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotory clip, air filter, ect, ect....
  • kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    no, no, no, dont disconect anything yet! get some W-D 40 or PB blaster or something of the sort. spray the joint (outside the casing) and give it a little working, spray again and work it. 3 times and it should free up for ya. if its suking in enough suit to be noticible wait till ur not gonna drive it for a bit like a day or whole afernoon and spray some carb cleaner on the inside at the flange joints, and try to wipe some of it out.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    OK I'm puzzled with both the problem of lockup and the response.

    If the trans was locked up because the car rolled backwards while in gear, then why didn't pressing in the clutch solve the problem? Pushing in the clutch obviously disconnects the trans from the engine. Wouldn't the lockup have disappeared the moment the clutch was pressed?

    I have caused a lockup of a drive train but that only happened on a stick 4x4. Turned out that the car had different size front and rear tires. 5 feet after shifting it into 4 wheel drive the car came to a screeching hault. I had to roll it backwards before I could get it out of gear.

    Mrbill
  • kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    it has happened in the past, unfortunatly with honda, u can look it up. there have been recalls on earlier modles. the whole interlinking system of how honda set up the shift lock to the brakes and ignition then on over to the ecu and back to .... well u get the drift. good luck
  • kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    every once in a blue moon a transmission will shock ya. perhaps the gear mesh itself got wedged. yes u disconected the eng. from the clutch, but did u move the gears inside the tranny? the clutch conects the power from engine to the gears translating to power, but if the clutch is off and the wheels dont move what else ic there to stop it. the tranny gears are always meshing together but ever once and a while the gears dont always seprate like they shoud. like ur teeth, uv closed ur mouth and clentched ur teeth a million times right. always the same way right. but every once and a while, even though ur theeth are staggered and matched perfect time and time again. theres always that one off chance u close-clintch- and oops grind/chatter/rub whichever. no what im saying. the tow truck had enough force to pull it threw, same with a couple of buddy givin a push. havnt u ever heard of an auto matic doin the same thing on an incline???
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