Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

bnormann · June 2000

Welcome to part two of this lively discussion.

I wouldn't have thought that Honda Accord problems
would be as popular a topic as it has been.

Here's a link to the previous discussion:

Honda Accord Problems

Your host, Bruce

adg44 · June 2000

Many problems, thanks to me complaining all the time.

- Anthony

mm04 · June 2000

Does each door have an actuator? If so, how can you tell which one is bad? Thanks.

auburn63 · June 2000

yes they do and usally the one that is making the noise is the bad one. For the most part I have only seen the drivers side front one go bad so if not for sure start there. However you should be able to hear just the one cycling.

capt2 · June 2000

Has anyone been able to establish what production months the V6's with the transmission problems were made? (assuming it doesn't effect all 2000's)

terminalis · June 2000

hky,

sorry for the delay in responding to your message. My accord doesn't have "finger-print like" spots. On the left side door panels, there are small holes that seem to "eat" through the clear coat into the paint. I guess it's not like yours. I haven't brought this into the dealer's attention. As long as it doen't get worse, I could live with it. However, I agree that these are factory defects or dealer's handling problem. Maybe they sprayed some chemical during preparation. I don't know. I certainly don't buy the crap about the acid rain. Anyway, good luck.

terminalis · June 2000

Hi. I was away for a while. First, I want to thank those who provided useful info about the VTEC usage (especially auburn who provided the link to the helpful link. I read it, and I think I understood).

Some more questions to you knowledgeable folks. Do you know how to decrease the noise coming from the exhaust? My accord makes this "boom" sound when it first starts accelerating from a dead stop. It's more noticeable on a hill. There're are actually two kinds of noise. First, the "boom" sound and, second, tickling noise at around 2000 RPM (with accompanying vibration of the car). The funny thing is that this sound-tickling-vibration is most noticeable from the passenger side, and less noticeable from the driver seat. Maybe the exhaust line runs under the passenger seat (mine is 2000 Accord EX-V6). Any thoughts?

Well, I guess with time any car develops engine-exhaust noise, but I want to keep my car like new as long as possible. There wasn't this kind of noise when I bought it. Is there anyway of reducing it? Like a quick tightening of a few bolts or some thing? Let me know if you have any ideas. Thanks.

adg44 · June 2000

I have a question! My friend was cleaning his engine on his 2000 Celica GT, and I was spraying water on it. I questioned him on whether or not it was smart to spray water on the engine. That went against everything I've learned about engines. Water and engine's don't mix. Well he seems to know what he's doing, his car is immaculate, and he has a detailing business, so I went home and hosed down my engine. I have to admit, it looks great. I sprayed some "More shine, less time" on the plastics, and it's looks so good. Now, maybe this is a little late to be asking, but is it a good idea to hose off your engine every couple months? Will I hurt anything?

Thanks

- Anthony

snowman · June 2000

I have been doing it for long time. My accord's engine is shiny too. As long as you cover distributer cab with plastic it will be fine.

joe111 · June 2000

I know some people think that cleaning an engine is the dumbest thing you can do. I dissagree, I have been cleaning engines for many many years with absolutely no problems. I am careful not to wet down a hot engine and I try to keep water away from electrical parts as much as posible. I just sold my 90 Accord , a car whose engine I cleaned on a regular basis. A clean engine might run a little cooler, and it is definately more enjoyable to work on.

auburn63 · June 2000

Hello, whats up.
That doesnt sound like anything I have seen yet so all I can think of is maybe they left something a bit loose when they did the trans. If not that or you dont think thats a possibility then is it possible someone hit the back bumper and or muffler and possibly bent it,causing it to hit on accel and vibrate against the body on decel? Let us know, keep in touch with more info if possible if not...see ya

terminalis · June 2000

Hi auburn63. Thanks for your reply. Actually, someone rear-ended my accord a few months ago. It was a really mild one though. However, the noise was there before the rear-end collision (at that time, the noise was very mild and just noticeable). I didn't notice a distinct increase in noise right after the collision. I think it gradually increased. The vibration-noise comes from the front end (especially from the front passenger). Very little from the back though. Funny thing is that the tickling noise-vibration dissappears at over ~2800 RPM, and is most noticeable (I think) at around 1900-2000 RPM. Also, the "boom" sound only occurs at the very begining of the acceleration. All this vibration-noise being most noticeable when there is a lot of load (like 4 adult passengers on a steep hill keeping constant RPM of 2000). I wonder what it is. I hope it's not a tranny vibration.

adg44 · June 2000

Thanks guys for all your responses. Yeah, my engine is so clean you could eat off it. And then the spray makes all the plastics really dark black. I'll have to take a picture of it. :-) I really don't get it too wet, I just put the hose nozzle on "shower" and lightly wet the engine to removed the dirt.

-----------------------------------------

terminalis,

Maybe there is a dent or hole or something in your headers or downpipe? I really don't know, just a sugestion. I don't have any "boom" sounds coming from my V6 Accord, but even if I did, I probably wouldn't be able to hear it over my AEM intake. Has the dealer checked this out yet?

- Anthony

auburn63 · June 2000

Well it sounds more and more like an exhaust problem. Maybe at sometime or another before someone hit you someone else tapped you or you back into something.I would have them check for bent pipes I see alot of them believe it or not.If they do find a bent pipe if they feel nice they can heat and straighten vs replacement.The vibration noise at 1900-2000 sounds like the exhaust buzz complaint of the 94-97 era.This to could have been caused by the bump or even the trans comming out and it got disturb. Either way thats what the warranty is for, find some time and have them fix it. Make sure to tell them it is worse with four passengers so they can duplicate it.Good luck....

joe111 · June 2000

Hey Auburn, seems like you're the man when it comes to questions on Honda's. I, and I'm sure many others, really appreciate all your help. Got a question for you....is there a problem with changing the oil in my 2000 V6 at 5000 miles? It only has 1200 miles right now but I've heard that it comes with break-in oil and this should be used for a certain amount of mileage. I know the owners manual calls for changes at 7,500, but I change oil in both my Honda's at 5000(and filter). Thanks for your help. Joe

terminalis · June 2000

adg44, thanks for your reply. I haven't told the dealer about the exhaust yet, but I'll at the next oil change. It doesn't seem to affect the car's performance anyway. For your engine cleaning thing, I was also told by a mechanic that it's not a good idea to clean it. I don't know why, but I wouldn't try. I don't mind having ugly looking engine bay.

auburn63, thanks a lot again for your advise. I agree with joe111 that you seem to be the guy to ask when it comes to questions on Hondas. I wish you're around here so that I could take my car to you. BTW, just curious, what's the exhaust buzz in the older generation? And what do you mean by "the trans coming out"?

joe111, I think this break-in oil issue has been already discussed in the past. If I recall properly, there is indeed the break-in oil, but it wouldn't matter to change the oil before the recommended time. I changed mine at around 4000 miles. Auburn63 could give you better advise, but I think it shouldn't hurt the engine.

trip3 · June 2000

Just to share some thoughts with those who like to clean their engines. I have been doing that on a variety of vehicles for over 40 years. When I go to the "bay" car wash, I buy an aerosol can of cleaner (it is little more than kerosene with a few additives) and spray that on the engine. Let it soak for a while while I get out my quarters and get organized. Then the engine gets the first spray so that any overspray will get washed off with the rest of the car. Has worked well, the engine has thanked me with cooler running performance, and it was cleaner to work on.

However, the last time I took my 1990 Ford Explorer in for a tuneup, the dealer showed me that the holes in the block where the plugs go in were so rusted up that they could not change the plugs. The water that remained there after engine cleaning had really done me in. so I have bought some Navel Jelly, etc to try to get access to the plugs.

I usually drove every vehicle for some distance after the wash to air dry the exterior and get some heat in the engine to evaporate the water. clearly it was not enough. Fair warning to all of my Edmunds friends.

silvercoupe · June 2000

Trip3, I do the same thing. But only about once every 3 months. Never caused any problems so far.
I wouldn't think about cleaning the engine every time I wash the car. IMO it just doesn't need it.

fritz1224 · June 2000

I HAVE A 2K ACCORD LX/V6. I CHANGED THE OIL AT 500 MILES. IT DOESN'T USE A BIT OF OIL. BEEN CHANGING IT AT EVERY 3000 MILES. NO PROBLEMS.
\

CLEANING THE ENGINE; BE CAREFUL! LOTS OF ELECTRONICS IN THIS CAR. DON'T USE COMMERCIAL WASHES.(HIGH PRESSURES) COULD BLOW SOMETHING OFF.

adg44 · June 2000

This was the first time I washed my engine. The car is 3 months old, and I'll only do it every three months. I use a soft "shower" setting on my hose, and I do it when the engine is cool. I also try to avoid the electronic's and sensors. When I did it last week, I don't spray too much water on it, just enough to remove the dirt. Then I "dress" up the plastics and hoses and it looks great!

notmyrealname · June 2000

I have a 99 Accord with 13k on it, and recently noticed that above the front left wheel body panel, and below the hood (actually it's the lip on the side panel that lies underneath the hood when it's closed), there is a panel that appears to prevent water from running into the engine from outside.

On this lip, near where the front tie bar is attached by bolt to the side panel, there is about a 6 inch strip of very light rust, which is obviously going to get worse.

Is this a covered warranty item?

How can I or should I fix this myself?

If I bring it to a dealer for repairs, should I insist on a replacement panel, or am I only entitled to some light sanding and repainting of the part of the panel that is beginning to rust?

Is this considered exterior or interior for rust warranty coverage?

Other than this, I like the car.

vinney · June 2000

Hello: I'ts been a while since my last post.
I have a 2000 accord lx 4 cyl auto and every morning as soon as the engine temp reaches normal operating temp the car jerks once and it doesn't do it again until the next morning.I've noticed that during the day after starting up with engine cold it doesn't do it. It seems to do it when the outside temp is a little cooler in the morning.The other day I tried something new,before the temp hit normal I shift into neutral for a minute and then back to drive and didn't feel the jerk.Could this be the trans temp sensor or you think an engine sensor or maybe reseting the idle.I've read that on 98/99 reseting the idle cured the the problem.Also what type of antifreeze should I use and is a drain and fill procedure ok every year or do you recommend a system flush done at a shop.
thanks for your help.
Vinney

RichIITF · June 2000

I have a '94 Accord EX(VTEC) with approx. 50k miles on it. My local dealer has recommended me to replace the timing belts and the accessory belts (per their maintenance schedule), but after I made some calls to other dealers they were recommending to replace it at 90K miles regardless how old the car is. I am confused with these recommendations and what the car manual suggest. BTW, the accessory belts look like they are in good condition but I was not able to inspect the timing and shaft belts. How should I gauge when it is a good time to replace these belts? I hate to put a lot of money into the car right now especially when I am considering buying a new car in the next 4 months.

auburn63 · June 2000

Thanks, I have found there to be alot of knowlegable in here.
As for the oil, Honda recomends leaving it in until 7500 but most, if not all of the break in period is within the first 1500-2000 miles so changing your oil at 3750 or 5000 would be fine. We have done many oil changes at 3000 and have not had any motor problems.

Terminalis,The exhaust buzz on the 94-97 accords was a loud vibration/buzz that happened at 1800 rpms under a slight load.Very loud and annoying, it was caused by this short little pipe they used as a flex point and its gaskets. The cure was new gaskets and hardware to secure it.Was such a big problem they made a kit for it so you didnt have to buy individual parts.As far as the "trans coming out" I meant when it was replaced maybe they disturbed something or didnt get something back in the same position and that, that may have caused your noise.

Amazon, the hesitation/studder you are feeling under light load is probably clogged egr ports. There is a procedure for drilling out those ports and cleaning the manifold. The only other way is to replace the manifold.

auburn63 · June 2000

Vinney, Have had some others complain of this one time hesitation on the boards. So far I know that an idle adjustment cures the 99 but not for sure on the 2000. I havent had any come in at the shop for this so all I can say is go back to the dealer and give them your complaint and tell them that if they can not duplicate could they reset the idle using the PGMFI tool procedure.As far as antifreeze once every 45000 is soon enough but if you want to do a drain and refill once a year then that can never hurt. Try to use the Honda antifreeze for best results.

RichIItf,The Honda recomendation is 6 years or 90k. You are at the 6 year mark and that year does have a problem with the balancer seal working it way out also.However if you are planing on selling and or trading it in soon then that would be a decision only you can make, if you should wait or not. Do I think you will have any problems? No, but do I gurantee? No, cause anything can happen. Good luck..

allycat · June 2000

I did not see any questions regarding the A/C
The A/C on my Accord '97 starts blowing hot air if I'm stuck in traffic for more than 5-10 minutes
And if god forbid I try to sit in a parked car, I'll be dead within 10 minutes
I went back to the dealership but they keep saying that's natural and there is nothing wrong with my A/C.
Can anyone relate? and what is wrong with my AC

auburn63 · June 2000

Although it is normal for the air to blow alittle warmer on prolonged idle due to the condenser not being able to get rid of the heat as good. It wouldnt be normal for it to get hot. Have you tried to get an actual temp reading from the duct? If not then I would do that and if it is going above 57F at idle then I would think that something is not right.Normaly the system blows about 45f from the center vent at idle. As far as what is wrong there are too many possibilities, under charged would be my bet but could be over,condenser fan could be bad,condenser fan could be blowing in wrong direction(should suck in towards motor)compressor and so on...Try the temp guage and make sure temp control is all the way to cold and see what happens.Good luck

frag235 · June 2000

Just purchased an Accord SE....for best longivity, should I change the oil/filter every 3000 miles, or use the manual recommendations? I have a 5-6 miles commute each way and a lot of highway miles on the weekends (about 16-17K per year). Any other service recommendations/tips for my car?

auburn63 · June 2000

I would change my filter at every 3k along with the oil but that would be to keep the motor as cleen as possible.If you wanted to wait till 7500 it would not hurt anything.Also as I have said in the past, using Honda parts will also extend the life of your car even when it comes to oil filters and always use a new crush washer with every oil change.Most people that do not go to a Honda shop forget or do not know to use a crush washer and reusing it causes damage to the oil pan threads.As far as anything else goes for the first 27,000 all you really need to do is change the oil,rotate the tires every 7,500,inspect the air filter at 15,000 and replace as necesary.General safety inspection are always good to do when doing the oil changes.Good luck with your new car

broncodave · June 2000

You seem to know you stuff when it comes to the Accord. I have a '00 EX built 1/00 5K miles not and it is my first Honda. I was going down a hill at about 55 MPH yesterday and I had to decelerate to about 15 MPH for a car to turn. After the car turned I pushed the gas(not hard). The car hesitated for a second and the jerked forward. I am thinking maybe the torque converter lock up disengaged and cause it? What do you think? Do I a have a problem?

auburn63 · June 2000

I think that it was probably completly normal. Honda has developed and used their own Trans for years and although they make improvements to them every year they are not what most people are used to. They do not use what almost every other trans uses and that is a planetary gear set. That peice plus a few others doesnt allow the Honda to shift like most others. On the plus side they tend to last along time if taken care of. Good luck with your new car, hope you enjoy it.

silvercoupe · July 2000

Just got my LX Coupe back from service. I mentioned that the windshield gasket on the drivers side does not fit properly at the bottom (about 1" of raw edge of glass is exposed). Just cosmetic, no leaks. I thought that they could just seal back down, but they are ordering a new gasket. How difficult is it to replace this gasket? I want it to look as good as new when they get done. What is your opinion on replacing the gasket?

auburn63 · July 2000

They dont have us reseal the glass at our shop, we have a glass company do it.So I dont know how involved it is,however I dont know if I would have it done with it not leaking or anything. If it is just cosmetic could you not do something to make it look better? Although I am sure it is not a bad job cause they seem to do it easy enough,I just wouldnt want to take the chance on creating a problem.Are you sure there are no leaks? Of course I can't see it so I dont know how bad it is and if it bothers you then you deserve the car the way you want it so....I guess what I am saying is, it is your choice. I have seen them after they were done and the ones I have saw came out nice.Good luck with your choice

notm · July 2000

HOW HOT IS IT?

I've noticed something that may be affecting my A/C temperature. My A/C on a 2000 LX is just not that cool. I am in SF and it doesn't get that warm here.BTW it does not have the Auto Temperature Gizmo that the EX has.

I'VE NOTICED
With the Temperature(blue/red ring) knob set all the way in the blue AND A/C OFF AND recirc air OFF-- the air coming from the dash center/side vents is quite warm. I've checked the temp in separate and combinations of the following (without thermometer) normal driving windows up, after car has sat over 4hrs, windows up, windows down; highway and street speeds; fan at 1-4--the air coming from the vents is always warmer than outside air.
Only after A/C is turned off after running 10+ minutes is the vent air not warmer than outside for a little while until it gets warm.

PURE OUTSIDE AIR
Is it possible to get pure outside air that is not heated?

A/C NOT POWERFUL
This warm air coming from just the vent seems to be related to the fact that the AC is not that powerful. It is starting with a handicap.

Any similar observations?

Auburn, Any explanations?

Thanks.

auburn63 · July 2000

Some of the vented air that is coming into your car has passed over the engine and underhood area.So therfore it will be alittle heated because of this. Also incoming fresh air runs through the inside of the car before exiting out the vent and it picks up some of the heat inside the car. You will also want some one to check and make sure the hot water valve is completly closing if not then the air is also being heated by the heater core.
For max cooling when first getting in car you should have windows down,recerc on,ac on max speed.After short time(1-3min)roll up windows and adjust blower speed to your comfort.The lower the blower speed the cooler the air will be,however when it is hot in car its best to have on high until you get cooled off.

j_walker · July 2000

I recently installed the in-dash CD player in my
wife's 1998 Accord and now noticing that the
digital clock's time displays when the key is not
in the ignition per the owner's manual. Also, the
clock isn't back-lit allowing the time to be
displayed in low light or when the headlights are
turned on. I'd not noticed this before. Are
either of these symptoms normal?

amazon · July 2000

Dude, you are good!!!! I took it to the Honda service department, and they said the same thing. Good feeling that I only will be out a couple of hundred bucks instead of thousands. Gotta give Immke Honda's (Dublin, OH) service department credit for excelling in customer service. They always do a great job.

cgianos · July 2000

My wife's car has a braking problem. On hot days the brakes will almost totally fail if the car is going down a hill. It feels like there is air in the system but after a minute or so they work OK again. (They have been bled twice) This only happens occassionaly, but obviously it is a big problem. Two trips to the dealer have resulted in "there is nothing wrong with it". I saw an article in a Sacramento area paper about a women who's Accord went through the same thing, resulting in an accident that killed a passenger. This really has us worried but we expect others may know how to fix this.

Any suggessions on what to look for? We would like to keep the car a couple more years, it is only usxed for a short (3 mile) commute to work.

Thanks.

auburn63 · July 2000

JWalker,
The bulb is probably blown. I have replaced many, all you need to do is pull the clock and take out the small bulb and replace it. If the bulb is good then you need a clock but most just need the bulb.

Amazon, y thank you,,,thank you very much

cgianos,
Most likely one of two things...
1.Sticky or frozen brake caliper pins, if the caliper can't slide then it makes the pedal effort harder and the pedal to go lower to the floor.

2.The brake master cylynder is on its way out only intermitantly failing at this time.Sometimes you can check this by putting car in gear and rolling forward then very slowly apply the brakes. If the brake pedal sinks to near the floor and gives you very little braking then it is bad.Give it a try and if you are not for sure it may be a best guess kind of thing.I have seen a lot of the 90-93 Accords need masters as of late.

cls2000 · July 2000

I purchased a 2000 EX V6 in April and I have been very pleased with this car so far. I have not had any of the transmission problems which I have read so much about here but my car was manufactured in Jan '00. I have noticed a persistent rattle in the dashboard especially at highway speeds but also noticable on a bumpy street. Has anybody had experience with this? I noticed it at about 500 miles and now at over 2000 miles it is not getting any better. Sometimes it is more noticeable than others and you can't always drown it out with the radio. I hesitate to bring this to the dealer to try and find beacuse I know it can be hard to locate and I don't want to create a new problem while fixing a fairly minor one.

prodigy · July 2000

I had a similar rattle in my 2000 EX V6. It was more prevelant when it was cold. It did not always rattle. I took it to the dealer on a cold morning and luckily was able to reproduce it when the service writer took a ride with me. Later in the day when the tech looked at it, it would not rattle. Fortunately, he was able to reproduce it by turning the A/C on. It turned out to be both of the side vents (driver + passenger) that had to be "re-crimped". It was quite annoying until it was fixed.

adg44 · July 2000

I haven't heard the rattle from the dashboard yet, but I have hear many others from my nice Accord Coupe. Does anyone else hear a rattle from the sunroof ONLY when you close it from being opened, not tilted up? Of course the dealer can't hear it, along with my other 2 rattles.

auburn63 · July 2000

If you use the Shin Etsu greese on your sunroof gasket most of the roof rattles will be fixed.You can buy it at your Honda dealer.Clean around the area first then apply it,let it stand for 2 min then lightly wipe the gasket with a clean cloth to work it in.

fritz1224 · July 2000

I left the windows(front) down about an inch. Rained pretty good. Got the front seats mildly wet. Now the side airbag indicator light is staying lit. Anybody know why? It's pretty dry now, but the light hasn't gone out yet.

snowman · July 2000

Based on your advise, I called regional customer service department and asked the copy of service bulletin about hesitation/stumbling. They were very helpful and faxed it to me. I will take my car with the copy of this bulletin to dealership and get this adjusted.

piceno · July 2000

I purchased my HONDA ACCORD EX-V6 in May/2000,
in Montreal, Canada. The first problem I had was that the SRS red light would not go off. This
happened on a saturday, and I was afraid to drive
the car for fear that the AIR bags (SIDE or FRONT)
would deploy at high speeds. So I had to wait for
Monday when the dealer investigated, and found a faulty SRS control module. They pronptly replaced the module. I have not had a problem with the
SRS warning light since.

By the way, I have NOT had any transmission problems with my EX-V6. I now have 1500 kilometers (or 900 miles) on it. The car was
manufactured in March/2000. This date is clearly
visible upon opening the front driver's door.

So far I love this automobile (signet grey).
Here are the reasons why:

. Tremendous acceleration & passing power
. Extremely quiet engine; it's so smooth that
I have to look at the tachometer to see if the
engine is engaged.
. Beautiful, functional & ergonomic interior.
I had the simulated woodgrain installed, and
it adds a true look of class.
The leather seating is very comfortable.
The back seats are very spacious.
I also like the automatic climate control,
although I'm still not used to it.
. The CD player is very clear & crisp; the sound
system is excellent.
. The alloy wheels are really great looking, and
sporty.

Before this car, I had a Honda accord 1987...and
I was also very pleased with it. By the way, it's
still running, with 125,000 miles on it!

PICENO

dc18 · July 2000

I've notice a "clunk" sound when I start my 2k Accord (4 cyl, auto trans). It doesn't happen all the time, but it is noticeable from inside the car. Anyone else have this noise???

DC

vinney · July 2000

I haven't had time to take my 2000 accord lx 4cyl auto trans in yet for that one time hesitation. I know you said reseting the idle w/ pgmfi tool procedure cures the 99's. Here is what I did differently, instead of putting trans in D4 I shifted to D3 until the car hit normal operating temp.then shifted to D4 and did not feel the jerk or hesitation three days in a row.My question is do you still think it is the idle still because I just read a bulletin in NHTSA about the torque converter causing shudder or judder between 20-40 mph while clutch is not quite in lockup mode.My car just jerks once if its in D4 at 40 to 50 mph. I have another question if the problem is to reset the idle why won't the car act up while driving in D3.Also do you recommend lubricating window channels since I've noticed some windows move up and down faster than others. Can I use silicone spray and also for the weather stripping?
Thanks for your response on my other post.

vinney · July 2000

I also have a 2000 accord 4cyl auto and almost all the time I hear a clunk when starting engine cold. I think its normal,when engine is cold it starts quickly at fast idle and thats what we are hearing. Also, it really doesn't sound like a clunk to me more like engine mounts reacting to engine starting quickly at fast idle. Well I hope this helps and its only my opinion.
Vinney

hbund216 · July 2000

asethi, I noticed the same thing on my 4cyl accord after I got it. It drifts to one side, you correct a little and it seems to dart for the other side. This happens continuously. It's as if the car is following a path within the lane you're in. I took mine to the dealer and they could not find a problem. I have either gotten used to it or it has gone away. I think it's a combination of the car and the type of road you're on. The front end is light and road impressions tend to easily change the direction of the car. My other cars don't do this.

notm · July 2000

Auburn,
Right, I know that the air passes over the engine, just like almost all other autos. this air is warmer than any car that I've ever driven or ridden in. Also other cars do not require BLASTING the AC on HIGH to cool things down. The fan is annoying. I don't even like AC but it is my only choice to cool the car down.

I do all those steps you described in post #39

thanks for the input!!!

Accord owners--any similar hot air?

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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