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Comments
you need also a new receiver/dryer ($30) -you get it from ackits.com. Be very carefull unscrewing/screwing the nuts(just don't do anything crazy) - lots of parts are from aluminum, that breaks and bents only once. otherwise you'll be fine. Any questions - post a message on the forum to Qualityguy.
Now, I wonder, if anybody will tell me anything re. exessive steering wheel play...
My insurance adjuster found $7700 worth of body damage, but did not examine the engine problem. It is still in the body shop and the dealer says when the repairs are done, "its your car". I found on NHTSA that there have been other reports of sudden acceleration in 2001 and other years Accords, and there is a TSB on this:
Service Bulletin # 010200
Bulletin Sequence #189
NHTSA Item # SB618953
Honda Accord 2001
Component:Engine
Summary: Information on diagnosing engine speed fluctuations, surging or hesitation at take off.
I plan to take it to another Honda dealer after the body work is complete, since the dealer where I purchased it does not want to do anything. What are my rights when the body work is done?
I note that with our '01 V6, this phenomenon is much less noticeable, in fact, transparent most of the time.
2. How long are you driving it with A/C on after conversion, especially on hot and humid days?
3. What is the temperature it is blowing after conversion?
4. The car I am driving, had under 30F before I converted it - I just had no option than to do that - I was called from the shop after they did the converison. I was shocked. But, as result, I paid US$ 65 only for that. But now it blows 50F. It's not bad, but my Subaru still blows under 30F... But nobody I know got away with Accord A/C converison. It was either redone, or changed back to R-12 again. I have chills on my back, when I think about it... So, if you don't want any uneasy feelings, go with factory specs, don't be a smart@#$.
Sorry, can't help you with your steering problems.
Thanks Again! Hope you get many more years out of your trusty Accord.
Chip
Could you explain?
Thanks
Anyways, I drove through, with the A/C on to keep the windows from fogging up from the rain. Now the A/C fan will not blow when set in the Auto position. I can manually turn the fan on, and the fan velocity increases as I rotate the dial, but when I click it into the Auto position, almost no airflow comes through, even though I set the temperature to 65 degrees. At 64 degrees the fan began to blow faster, but nowhere near as fast as it should to try to make the car temp 64 degrees. I have checked all of the obvious fuses, but wonder if there is a separate fuse or control for the A/C system while in Auto mode. Please e-mail me an answer since I need to take the car on a long trip tomorrow morning.
gary_provencher@hotmail.com
Thanks in advance for the help!
According to the Maxima owner's manual these things should be checked at certain mileage intervals, but they do not say that they "must" be done.
Any thoughts on the Honda maintenance (or Maxima)?
Thanks.
The Sanden and Nippon Denso compressors were internally built differant and would not be bothered by the conversion.
If I have Sanden and Nippon Denso compressors, what is involved in conversion and appoximatly how much would it cost? Can I do conversion myself?
Thanks again for your time.
Chip
You have to look under the hood for a sticker telling you what the compressor and serial number are or look at the back of the compressor. There will be a label on the compressor itself. As well most Honda techs can look at it and tell you, so if all else fails go by a Honda dealer and get an estamate.As for the conversion of a sanden unit all you need to do is evacuate the freon open the low side line and install the pag oil that comes in the kit, clean off the schrader valves, put loctite in the threads and screw on the new fittings. Pull vacuum for 10 or more min., and then recharge the unit with R134A.Use the max refidgerant spec for the car -2oz.Example if the R12 system held 2.0lbs(32oz)you would recharge with 1lb 14oz(30oz)of R134A.
amers3
We have not had any of these yet but across the country people see differant complaints. That I know of the only way to increase a lean condition is by going to a speed shop and see what they have available. I know they have ways like new ECU and programable ECU's so maybe they will have other ways as well.
Or under light acceleration? If so it may be the EGR ports in your manifold. They tend to clog one at a time until all are clogged except for the number 1 cyclnder and that one then gets all the load dumped in it causing a really leaned out cylnder and a miss fire. To test this you can disconect the vacuum hose going to the EGR then road test it and see if it still studders. Note the check engine light will come on but no big deal it will reset after shutting the car off.Other than that I would think possibly a bad injector but I think it will probably be the EGR ports.Good luck
They pop up once in awhile and do their best to convince people that Honda has some kind of ongoing problem with V-6 transmissions.
I'm not sure what their motivation is but it does get tiring.
Listen to Auburn63. After all, he is a front line Honda technician who deals with this everyday.
Also, isn't the recommended engine oil 5W20 too thin for summer driving in the NY area?
Thanks.
Also, concerning the Tranny in the Accord, I checked arond to several well known Transmission Repair facilities with national chains and was told that they rarely ever have to repair an Accord tranny.
Issellhondas on this board may be right about the tranny problem being fixed. Ziggy
First oil change
I think you should probably do the first oil change at 3000 or 3750 miles. If that makes you feel uncomfortable then change at the 6 month mark. For years we have done 3000 or 3 months but the oil and the emissions of cars has changed over the years making it less important to change much earlier than 3750 and 6 months.Also the 5-20 will work great in this area(northeast).
I haven't gotten a chance to call Honda yet, cuz they were closed. So, obviously I'll talk to them tomorrow, but what are anyone's thoughts about whether I should not drive at all and have it towed to Honda? Would it be safe to drive? What does anyone think it is? Rotors? Wheel bearings? (though it didn't go away with any specific right or left turns while it was screeching for those 500 or so yards) And if someone knows what might be wrong, can you tell me your guess on prices to fix it?
Thanks so much for your time. Take care.
Thanks again. Take care.
Honda says dealers set the price and I have been quoted prices from $1300 to $1950.
Thanks.
This is a nice board!
Unfortunately, my first post (this message) is going to complain about the build quality of my new 2001 Accord LX-V6. I bought the car about 3 weeks ago and it has only 600 miles. However, just before the Labor Day weekend, the poor car did not want to upshift and it jerked and shaken on acceleration. I was almost in an accident when this happened on the freeway, but fortunately I was able to coast to the side of the road and called for AAA. I was out of a car during the holiday and had to worry about this brand new car. The car was serviced 2 days ago and it was found that the problems were caused by a bad shift solenoid. The car performs fine after the repair.
My questions are (1) how big is this repair and will it affect the future performance? (2) how come a new car has a bad shift solonoid? From what I read this should be a reliable part.
My car also has a small crack on the drivers side door panel, and though it was replaced promptly, I felt very disappointed about the initial quality of this new car, especially after the shift solenoid episode.
I just hope the future performance and reliability could rebuild my confidence in Honda. My old 90 Civic never gave me any serious problems (why did I sell it?!!!).
Thanks for any comments.
The complaint as you stated it, is usally a sign of a brake indicator hitting the rotor. When you put the brakes on it pushes against the little indicator and makes the noise go away.So not to keep pushing the brake pad thing but if you have 4 wheel disc was all of them checked? Sometimes the pads need to be pulled completly out to be checked because they can be decieving just looking at them through the caliper. Other than that if you haven't heard it again then maybe it was just something that got jammed in behind the rotor and the backing plate.
sn1993j
All things mechanical/electrical break. Although unfortunate for you it was so soon and on a holiday weekend. Sorry to hear of your troubles, good luck from here on in all things should be fine..
PS. recently I realized that randomly at start up without pushing the accelarator, the car would start and immediately shuts off. I am not sure if there is a link.
miles (14 months I had owned) when my check engine light came on. Took the car to the dealer and was advised if I did 30,000 mile service that would take care of my problem. NOT. Engine light came on the next morning. Took the car back to the same dealer and 3 days later they decided to replace the EGR valve. All was well until my mileage reached 35,000 miles in March 2001. Engine light came back on - took car to local dealer who has always serviced my car on oil changes and small warranty items - they were aware of previous work done and they CLEANED my egr valve.
Guess what, the light stayed off until around 47k miles which was in Aug 2001. Took car to original dealer who decided to chemically clean the egr valve & port. They did this at no charge.
It was a good thing as the light was back on the next morning. After taking the car back to the dealer and them getting in touch with tech's in California the resolution was to replace the EGR valve. We discussed who would pay for this problem and my dealership got the approval from the District manager that they (HONDA) would pay for the part but I would be held accountable to pay for the labor($121). I called the 1800 Honda Customer Service # and made a complaint about my recurring problem. The person that I spoke with was very understanding and advised me that if I had called this number before the dealership had contacted the district manager that they would have also paid for the labor. She advised that they could not override what the district manager had already approved. She also advised that this was a one time only "goodwill part" offered by Honda to replace my valve and that any additional problems that I have will be at my cost from now on. She did check to see if any recall's were out on this issue and none were. I asked what next and was advised to call the BBB. I could not help but to laugh. Is this the response that I get when I have a problem. I got more attention from Honda reps when I was just looking for a new car. I was advised by a new found friend at one of the dealerships that this is becoming a problem with 2000 accords since most people don't drive as much as I do (suburban working mom with kids and husband who coaches baseball). Please respond if you have any info that can help myself or others. ....My dealer who has done the EGR replacement twice has promised to set up a meeting between district manager and me. He wants the manager to hear my complaint. I will advise if this happens what the outcome is. SO far the light has stayed off for 2 whole days!! Maybe a miracle occured Thanks for your time!!!!
Has anyone else experienced a similar problem?
THE COOLING FANS THAT COOL DOWN THE ENGINE DOES NOT COME ON, SO THE CAR OVERHEATS. I LOOKED AT THE COOLING FAN FUSE (30 AMPS) IT WAS BURNED OUT SO I PUT IN ANOTHER FUSE, AND AND AS SOON AS I PUT IT IN THE FUSE BURNED OUT. DOES ANY ONE NO WHAT IT COULD BE. AND HOW MUCH IT WOULD COST TO FIX.
Please turn your Caps Lock off. It's these two sentences easier to read than the previous? (ALL CAPS IS CONSIDERED 'YELLING').
And for everyone's benefit [and I will deliberately turn on the caps here] DO NOT EVER TAKE DELIVERY OF A CAR YOU HAVE NOT DRIVEN AT LEAST 10 MILES before committing to the deal. Always drive the specific car you intend to buy, and well before you sign anything. Get it warmed up, get it up to highway speeds, use the brakes, turn on the AC...do what I call an "acceptance test".
Golfnut is not the first person who has turned up a problem with a new car that was there right from the get-go. The best defense in this case is offense...do not close the deal until you know this is the car you want and it works properly.
Honda will make 400,000 of these things this year. Most of them will behave properly from minute one, and will do so for a hundred thousand miles with minimal effort on your part. HOWEVER, a few will not, and a fewer still will have something so obviously wrong that they should not be driven off the lot. That is a statistical certainty...behave accordingly.
A good dealer will solve this problem, whether or not the OBD codes are being set. Sounds like you need another dealer, or need to get the ball rolling with Honda to get one of the regional reps involved.