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Comments
The 30k service recommended includes a lot of inspection of components, and only an oil change, no plugs or other fluid replacements. Oh, A/cmicro filter replacement too.(Dealer didn't include this in theirs)
However, the well-maintained award goes to a 1992 Honda Accord EX Coupe we bought with 250,000 miles. Car is immaculate and looks like it has 200,000 miles less than it does. No signs of seat wear at all. I'm beginning to think the 90-93 Accords were the best generation yet.
If you change your own coolant, dispose of it properly, it is a deadly poison and if pets drink a small amount of it, they will die a horrible death.
170K on a 98! What kind of a deal did you get on that one?
I see high mile Hondas pretty often. It's funny...even after 200,000 miles, they usually run well, don't rattle and the interiors hold up.
I once took in a 88 civic with 357,000 miles. The body was rough but it ran just fine. It was on it's second clutch too!
We bought the car for $6500. It's green over tan with good tires and the interior only has one minor imperfection. There are a few rock chips on the hood (but what do you expect). All in all it looks ALOT better than some 2000-2001 Accords with 150,000 less miles. If I were in the market for a cheap, newer V6 Accord I would seriously consider that one.
The 93 I talked about with 250,000 is amazing. The car could pass for new almost. I've noticed that the interior in the 90-93 Accords (as with almost any other Accord) hold up remarkably well. Like I always say ... when a car can look and drive just as good at 10 years old as it did at 1 ... that's quality. Quality is not 30,000 miles of almost perfect reliability with just a few warranty repairs as some people would like you to believe.
Is there any hope to get the problem fixed or the car is just too old to fix? Any ideas? Thanks!
If the down hill park is steep and the fuel level is below a half of a tank at the time it does this then that is probably all that is wrong. If the hill is not that steep then it would be more like a quarter of a tank or less. The gas flows away from the pick up for the pump and can not deliver enough solid fuel to keep it running. Give it a look and see if it could be a possibility..
ibuycars
NOx is usally a sign of a problem with the EGR system. Can also be a sign of blow by(oil)or a bad PCV. Start with a system check of the EGR and if all seems to be fine with that then you may have piston rings on their way out or if your lucky a pcv.. Good luck
Thanks for the info. Does the EGR system repair expensive? How much to expect in the worse case?
(I am trying to see if it is worthwile to have it fixed. I looked at the car this morning; it runs fine otherwise.)
Thanks again.
In panic, she turned off the car, and after a few minutes, restarted it and everything worked fine. The front right wheel now has a big bend and a alignment is needed as the steering wheel is about 30deg off to the left when going straight. It also starts to shake at around 60mph or so. I couldn't find anything with the brakes after test-drove it on freeway and hard-braked it while on city streets.
I already scheduled an appointment with the dealer next Tuesday for a check up. I was thinking of something has to do with the master brakes cylinder. Since the car is just one month and 1000 miles over the 1yr/12k miles warranty, would the 3yr/36k one cover the brakes if any is found broken?
Has anyone experience this with their car? Any suggestions of what I should mention to the dealer or any TSB that I can show to them about the Accord brakes? I'm so concern now that I'll have her drive my Pathfinder until I can assure everything is fine with the Accord.
Thanks for your help.
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2. Show your wife how to use the emergency brake.
And, yeah, it sounds like a bad master cylinder although it ought to be acting up all of the time...strange!
If anyone reading this is from the Kansas City, MO area and is considering purchasing or leasing from Stadium Honda, think twice. At about 37,000k (just out of warranty) my illumination light for my clock went out. I took it to Stadium thinking they would take care of it for me since my family had bought several cars from them. Wrong. The genius service mgr. tells me I need to have the entire clock replaced which will be about $225. I decide to take it to Frank Ancona Honda in Olathe, KS (kudos to these guys). The service guy says it's simply the light bulb, gives me the bulb, and puts in for me at no charge. Please don't go to Stadium Honda. Give Ancona Honda a shot.
I was just searching for other posts on brake issues. I have a '96 Accord with 95k miles; the brakes started squeaking about 5k miles ago and just recently started shuddering when braking from above 40 mph down to about 20 mph. I had new rotors/pads put on (even had the tires rotated and balanced) and it still shudders and squeaks when braking. The mechanic doesn't know what it is, speculating that maybe a bearing is bad.... anybody have any suggestions before I open the checkbood for a fishing expedition as to the cause/cure?
If you have braking shudders now-jack the car up and try retorquing the lug nuts to 80 foot pounds with a good quality click type torque wrench. My 80 accord's shakes improved dramatically after I did this. Also if you do have to replace the rotor on any pre 98 accords-it is a pricey proposition as they are pressed into the wheel bearing and a real pita to do. Wheel bearings going south will not make the wheels shudder and are easy to diagnose-just jack up the front end and take the wheels in 3/9 and 6/12 (clock) positions and attempt to move. A little play in 3/9 is okay and probably due to a little slack in the steering.
Yeah honda may have rotors that are much too prone to bending when subjected to jamokes with impact wrenches but this is an easily preventable problem. I take my own torque wrench to Tires Plus when replacing tires.
Took the car in the dealer this morning. The technician took it for a test drove and couldn't find anything with the brakes. After the car was up on the airjacks, he popped up the tires and the rear brakes covers looking for leaks. There was none. He also opened the master cynlinder to see if there's any trace of brake fluid leaking through the seals. It was clean. The fluid level on the reservoir looks normal.
After about 20 minutes of looking, he could not find anything wrong. Tighten everything up and went for another test drove, everything worked normal. Conclusion: could not find any problems.
I had it realigned all wheels afterward and rotated the bented wheel to the back; that eliminated the shaking at 60+ mph. The dealer quote $80-$100 for the steel rim. I found one at a junk yard for $40. My cousin's friend is selling his '00 EX alloy rims with tires (30% left) for $350, I'm thinking of getting those to replace the LX steel rims.
I guess I have to wait and see if the problems resurface or will it develope shuddering when braking.
Thanks all,
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I went over and looked at it.He was told these bearings could not be replaced ,without pulling the transmission and rebuilding it.I looked into the area where these bearings were.Some were laying on the floor and were scored badly.These bearings seem to be what the axle turns on.They are located behind the seal where the axle goes in the transmission.
I looked closely and at first it seemed this bearing was,indeed,inside the transmission.It did not make sense to me that a bearing failure here would require a tear down of the transmission.I wiped the area off and saw a retainer clip that looked like it might be holding the bearing.If so it looked like it could be replace from the outside fairly easily.The light was not good so I could not tell for sure.
My question is-is this bearing removeable from the outside of the transmission and if so.what is this part called?.
Thanks
Dan
Has anyone that changed the tires to a different brands that could comment on the noise?
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Don't know about the Dunlop A2 SP tires, but tirerack.com has some good price on them.
tirerack.com
I'm not sure if Bridgestone is still having the 30-days exchange deal where you can take the tires back and exchange for a new set if you don't like them, within 30 days. That could be something to check out.
A friend has a set of Bridgestone Potenza (don't know which series)on his Audi A4 and they are pretty quiet.
Please share your comments on which tires you choose. Thanks
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I wish I knew the simple secret of resetting the "maintenance reqd" flag by reading the owner manual to avoid this type RIP OFF by a Honda dealer. It appears this feature was introduced since 1998 Honda Accord models. The maintenance reqd light comes on every 7,500 miles. There is a procedure listed in Owner manual under "Guages" on how to reset this "irritating" indicator.
Please don't get ripped by another Honda dealer for resetting this indicator at a price of $71.24.
The time involved in setting up an appointment, driving to the dealer, dropping off vehicle and getting ripped off isn't a very pleasant situation for anyone!
Todays lesson boys and girls: No matter where you have your brake pads replaced, make sure factory pads are used. The Honda pads and aftermarket pads don't even resemble eachother
I have eliminated the following items.
Battery - Even when it is in the teens the car turns over well, and when the car does start it turns over well and catches instantly.
Ignition switch - I tested this by holding the key down, and engaging and releasing the clutch. The car finally catches after a few pumps of the clutch. I am not jiggling the ignition at all.
Clutch swith - Held down clutch and turned ignition.
Tune up parts - the car always fires instantly when it does turn over.
Starter - this is the puzzling one. Given all of the above items being OK I figured it was the starter and had it rebuilt. The solenoid plunger wasn't seating properly (positive terminal was worn). This fixed the problem for about a week (although this is hard to say because sometimes it goes a week with no problems - but it was doing it all the time just before it was "fixed")
Other information.
There is always a single click from the engine bay every time I try to start the car so it seems like the starter is always getting its orders. It seems like the problem does not happen when the engine is hot - maybe condensation or freezing is a problem, or maybe just the odds as I rarely do hot starts.
Does anybody have any ideas?
Could it just be that the starter wasn't rebuilt correctly (the work was done at an automotive electric speciality shop and they used original nippendenso parts)?
Thanks
An associate bought some expensive "performance" tires for his LOL Avalon-they were the loudest tires other than knobbies I have ever heard. So there are a range of accoustic properties exhibited by tires. Yeah I also wish Honda's were quieter.
THANKS FOR ANY HELP
Aside from adjusting to driving an older car and the "normal" Honda problems like hesitation, the car is running fine. Hondas really are great cars.
There are just a couple of (relatively minor) things that are concerning me. #1 is that the D4 setting on the gear shift display on the dashboard (mine is an automatic) has been blinking. Even when I put the car in reverse or D3, the D4 light keeps blinking.
#2 is that the gear shift is really tight. It's particularly hard to get to get it back to Park. I have to use a little muscle!
Does anyone know why these things are happening?
I thought I took it for a good test drive, but obviously, I missed a couple of things. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
If it lists
"Reset Maintenance Reqd light" labor $71.24, then it's a rip-off that you should complain to the service manager.
It is based simply on mileage. It starts flashing at x miles and stays on after z.
Be patient though. It sometimes is a little finicky and may take a time or two to get it to shut off.
Any ideas? Thanks
The cover under the radio by the center console has 2 screws and 2 clips that hold it in, it comes off first. Then the screw in the upper left hand corner of the lower right dash comes out as well as the screws on the right side behind the right side fuse box cover.Then pop the clips that hold the lower cover in and remove it as well as the screws for the glove box that are now visable.There is also screws in the center and 2 in the corners(hidden under covers) on the inside of the glove box. Now remove the glove box. Now remove the strap for the filter and slide them out. I don't believe I forgot anything but if I did sorry but I think you should be able to do it. Good luck
delfina
If it is the maintanance light push and hold the trip button with the key off, while holding the trip in still turn the key to the on position and keep holding for about 15 sec. The light will go off and all will be reset for 7500 miles..If it is the check engine light then it could be anything..