Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

lmf · January 2005

I have 32,000 miles and at my 30,000 m. tune up the Honda dealer said I should be fine and that my Michelins would last until 60k and there was no need for snow tires. My neighbors drive tin cans and they have no trouble getting up the driveway. I'm ready to just get an SUV.

imidazol97 · January 2005

Does your car have the MXV4? I recall some here on Edmunds commenting about wet or snow traction with those being less than it should.

A knowledgeable tire salesperson told me that my X-Ones had worn down below the level with all the siping and I had lost a lot of a my traction on snow because of that. He stated a percentage that was gone below 7/32 or 5/32 of depth left. The Symmetry tires on my other car have worn a few 32nds and a lot of the siping is gone and I can tell when I drive it. The tires don't grab like the did the first two years.

If you look at the tires on your front wheels now and compare to a new version of that same tire you may see that a lot of the gripping ability is gone due to normal wear. MXV4s are pictured on Michelin's website. It says they're not offered any more.

The Hydroedge is rated 8 vs Harmony at 9. Other versions of the Harmony are sold at Sears and Discount Tire in our area with different names (Agility and Destiny)and slightly different treads. They both rated 8 on the Michelin website for snow. Agility only has 10/32 tread depth instead of 11/32.

chucko3 · January 2005

I agree. There are other parts that need to be looked at due to tear & wear at that mileage such as ball joints, CV joints, suspensions, and brakes. They are expensive to replace, but they can be visually inspected.

gee35coupe · January 2005

They were trouble free. There was a time when I could not afford to have 3 brand new cars in the driveway and I that's what I could afford. If you do buy that Accord(I recommend it after a thorough checking) it should be reliable. Sure some things may go wrong as mentioned before, but that's why the car isn't $20K anymore. I seriously doubt it'll leave you stranded on the side of the highway.

traumer · January 2005

The best thing for winter driving is to purchase four winter tires and install them on wheels. Winter tires have a softer compound made for driving on ice and snow. You won't believe the difference in driving control you will now have. Save your street tires and good wheels for non winter driving.

fmilymn · January 2005

While researching I found a man to have the same problem. He had the air intake assembly replaced. Supposedly a recall. For what it's worth.

ktnr · January 2005

"Anybody knows about any TSB regarding wind noise in 03 Accord? Now my accord is becoming more and more noisy. Above 60mph, the front wind noise is loud."

Honda Service Bulletin 03-057 - Wind Noise at the Front Window

Applies To:

2003 Accord L4  From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000075 thru 1HGCM5...3A010500

2003 Accord V6  From VIN 1HGCM6...3A000072 thru 1HGCM6...3A006800

Honda Service Bulletin 03-085 - Wind Noise From the Upper Rear Corner of the Front Door(s)

Applies To:

2003 Accord L4  From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A132549

2003 Accord V6  From VIN 1HGCM6...3A000001 thru 1HGCM6...3A097398

panheadmec · January 2005

Wondering if the wheels, and tires of an 1988 legend Acura will fit on my 1991 honda Accord? Someone told me they would, but before I go through all the trouble of removing them I want to make sure. TIA

actnaccordnly · January 2005

Has anyone had the gas light bulb that registers when there are only 2 gallons remaining blow out?

Was it the bulb or something more serious?

tcvb22 · January 2005

I have a 2005 EX V6 that I purchased a few weeks ago and have noticed a few minor things.

When I turn on the heat and select "auto" then select "dual" after turning off the heat the dual light stays on. I have to then deselect it to turn it off. Has anyone else had this problem or is this the way it should be?

Thanks

sockpuppet1969 · January 2005

How are you "turning off the heat"?

greglawson · January 2005

Hey folks

We currently own a '05 Accord 4cyl/ Navi, and out of being compulsive, I checked out the Navi Diagnostics menu. With the car's engine started, and with the car outside, I touched the "F-Can" (it might have been the B-Can) button. On the top row, above the four green boxes, there is a line of text saying "Error Active".

It does not elaborate anymore about what's wrong, but should I be concerned? Anyone else's car have this displayed on their navi diag screen?

Thanks

CSF · January 2005

Hi ashaidy,

Glad you think my idea about sharing info has merit. I haven't taken mine in yet -- am going to wait until the 3000 mile oil change appt. to do it because the dealer I bought it from (Roebuck Honda - Birmingham, AL) is in another city and I won't have time to make the trip up there before then. If they are able to fix it, I will post their solution here on the board.

Do you mind posting the number you called to file the complaint and get a claim #? The more complaints & claims Honda gets, the sooner we may get a solution.

CSF · January 2005

tlee,

Thank you so much for the information! When I take mine in to have it checked out if they don't have a solution or tell me they can't hear it (they'd have to be 100% deaf!) I'll have the service mgr. call your dealer.

tntitan · January 2005

I replaced my wheels after I drove my 2003 Accord home less than 10 miles from the dealer and would be willing to part with them for a nominal fee if any of you snowbirds need an extra set of wheels for snow tires.

tlee · January 2005

Actually you don't have to bring the car to the dealer you bought it from for the warranty work. Your local dealer will be happy to do the work for you. Although it's free for you, they actually charge Honda North America for the warranty work. In my case, I bought my car from a dealer in Houston (180 miles away). But I took the car to the local dealer to fix the noise problem.

vn52 · January 2005

I just bought a new accord EX 05 few days ago with 14 miles and have 2 problems:

1. above 50 mph, when braking, the car rumbles and vibrates like wheels were loose.

2. above 60 mph, the ride also bumpy, noisy, vibrated, steering wheel shakes. At slow speed, 15-20 mph, I can feel the car moves up and down like tires out-of-round ?.

For the first problem, dealer replaced front brake rotors which seems to fix braking problem.

For the second problem, dealer rebalanced all 4 wheels which not help. Dealer later did "road force balance ?" tires and replaced 1 bad tire, but the second problem still exists. Tech says could not find any thing wrong.

Any suggestion or advise how to handle this problem will be appreciated. Tomorrow, I will talk to service manager.

I am so unhappy and very desperated with the problems. The car was in dealer lot for 4 months before I bought it. I did not test drive it when purchased (stupid me)

Thanks for help again.

viet · January 2005

Please be calm. Even you test drove the Accord you could not detect all problems. It is under warranty at 36K miles/ 3 years, the dealership will fix ("adjust") those problems for you with no charges. I have owned so many Accord and I can be sure with you the Accord is very good.

jaynian · January 2005

Can anybody tell me if it possible to reset the srs airbag switch, it came on when I was trying to rectify another problem and had to remove fuses.

tcvb22 · January 2005

I press the "auto" button. If I have a passenger in the car I will select the "dual" then before turning the car off I press the "off" button but the "dual" light stays on.

jbaer · January 2005

I am in the market for a 2005 EX and can't decide about getting leather or cloth. I saw a honda pilot with leather seats and they looked awful after only a year or two. I seem to have recalled that others have complained about this. Would love some input, advice or experience concerning this questions. Thanks a lot !

psilonquest04 · January 2005

I have read a number of posts about the problems with 2001 (and other years) transmissions. Here is my story, (and happy ending).

At 80k my 2001 started leaking the fluid. The fluid leak was drastic... from nothing to almost 1/4 quart a day. I knew nothing of the extended warranty at this point and I figured I was out of luck.

Took the car to the original dealer and within 2 hours they had diagnosed the bearing problem in the differential and ordered a new tranny, covered 100% by warranty, and had a rental car waiting in the lot for my use while the car was fixed (about 7 days).

Honda pulled through and earned my respect.

richards38 · January 2005

Thanks for that info. That's part of the reason I bought a Honda ('04 Accord EX-L in Aug., '03).

About 80% of the purchase was for the car and the other 20% was buying the integrity of the company that made it.......Richard

dirkpitt73 · January 2005

I'm bringing my '05 LX (334 miles) in for the second time this week. I'd now describe the noise as a popping or cracking sound vs. a rattle. Sometimes it sounds like the windshield is going to crack. It's been cold here (Austin, TX), so the noise was much more pronounced this weekend. I plan on calling Honda directly tomorrow to file a complaint, although I still hold out hope the dealership can fix it. Interestingly, I did not get paperwork for the first attempt at fixing this (where they "re-sealed" the windshield). I want to document this whole thing in case I have to escalate.

jenhudnall · January 2005

I own a 1993 Accord, 4-door SE. I have had problems with the car starting after it has been shut off for a short time, such as when I run into the Post Office or dry cleaner. If I wait a few minutes, it will then start up and run fine. I have taken it to a couple of mechanics but get the same comment: "It has to happen while I have it...". Of course, it never does. Any ideas why the car won't start after a brief shut off?

alcan · January 2005

That's typical of a defective main relay, which supplies power to the fuel pump and fuel injection system. It's located behind the dash on the driver side to the left of the steering column, hidden above the silver cruise control box.

snakehair · January 2005

If you have selected DUAL operation, you have to de-select it. The heating system will resume at the last setting if you don't turn it OFF, but the type of operation (DUAL or not) is not affected. DUAL mode remaining on is normal operation.

hondabuff · January 2005

I'll bet the ignition switch is under RECALL. Same thing happened to my wife's 99 Accord. My mechanic looked on internet and found ignition switch under recall. Took car to dealer, he replaced ignition switch- never a problem since.

ptr2void · January 2005

Howdy all...

2003 Accord EX-L, 4AT, 16K highway miles

I've noticed that if I travel via the highway after I've used the brakes where the ABS kicks in (as today, with the snow pack following the blizzard), the car (can't localize the source) vibrates pretty badly for the duration of the trip at speed.

While I'm waiting to hear back from the dealership, any thoughts? Related to TSB 03-069 (http://www.northcoasttuners.com/TSB/03-069.pdf)?

Thanks!

chucko3 · January 2005

Oh, man. What a storm we had in the northeast.

My 89LXi vibrated so bad at speed >60mph this morning. Never had this vibration before. I thought there was somthing with the front end. Got to the destination. Going to check the front end, but noticed powder snow packed & covered the two front alloy rims enough to cause the wheels off balance.

So check to make sure your wheels are not covered with packed snow.

ptr2void · January 2005

Hi chucko...

Yes, it was quite a snow

Your idea is a certainly good one, but this isn't the first time I've noticed this. It's happened before when there wasn't snow (although there was ice, which was what kicked the ABS on that time).

pmhtv · January 2005

I have an '03 Accord EX-L with almost 30K and do not have any issues with the leather seats. They are holding up very well. It's like anything else - if you take care of it, it will last. If you park your car in 100 degree heat with all the windows closed and no sun shield day after day, then yes, the leather will crack - no matter what the make of car you own.

tlee · January 2005

Your problem seems to be similar to mine (before it was fixed). I would describe it as the popping noise when the bubbles of a bubble wrap are burst. It only occurred when the car was over a bump or pothole. Since you are in Austin, you should bring your car to Classic Honda if your dealer cannot fix the problem for you. I'm sure Classic Honda would be happy to have your business. By the way, it has been almost a week and I haven't heard a single popping noise since I got my car back.

dirkpitt73 · January 2005

thanks - so you took it to Classic and they fixed it? would you mind telling us what they did specifically?

thanks!

jbaer · January 2005

Thanks a lot. Glad to hear you have been satisfied with your leather seats.

tlee · January 2005

Yes, Classic Honda fixed the problem for me free of charge (although I didn't buy the car from them). As I recall, they added some felt padding to the headliner. Please see post #9387 and #9409 for more details.

rickfifty · January 2005

Sorry, I don't have a manual. It's my daughters 94 accord lx. I see 4 bolts and a big nut in the middle. Any help out there? Thanks in advance.

skilltpa · January 2005

I had 2 vehicles with leather seats and I say this about ALL cars with leather. The dealer should PAY you to buy a car with leather seats. The problem with leather is that it needs to be conditioned at least 2 - 3 times a month. Condition with the use of saddle soap and leather conditioner in order keep the moisture within the leather and allow it to breath/stretch.

Leather in a car, although it looks damn good...over a period of 2 - 3 years it will DEFINITELY crack and start looking horrible...especially on the drivers side because of the constant sliding in and out of the vehicle.

If you have the finances to THROW good money away then by all means buy a car with leather, but if you have kids and live a practical life then cloth will be the way to go....

One thing to consider, if you plan on leasing then hell yeah lease a vehicle with leather cause you're going to give it back to the dealer for a new one in a few years anyway.

skilltpa · January 2005

Read post 8445. I have to agree with gregoryc1 in post 8446 about my problem being located somewhere the senor doesn't trip a code. On top of the things I done from post 8446, I have changed fuel filter. I also ohms checked the fuel injectors while the erractic rpm malfunction was ocurring, but still to no avail.

Here is some more information about the problem which someone out there may help me find a solution, the erractic idle will go from about 700 rpms to 1500 rpms then back down to about 700 and constantly does this until I add throttle.

Heeeelllppp.... LoL

skilltpa · January 2005

Its more than likely your starter. I had the same situation with my 1991 (from 1990 - 1993 alot of the troubleshooting is the same). I put a test light on the wire going to starter and turned the igniton key on. The light lit up ,meaning power was making it to the starter but the car would not crank. I jumped across the starter (touching metal from the ground post on the starter to the wire going to the starter, the ignition key must be in the on position to do it) and the car started right up. I replaced the starter and the problem never happened again.

Not to say the Main Relay can not be the cause of your problem, but changing one out is a royal pain in the azz, and the starter is a less expensive way to go. Plus you can change a starter out yourself by removing the 2 mount bolts, disconnect the ground on the starter and disconnect the ignition wire. Install new starter, connect and mount it back up and you're off and running. Takes about 30 mins to an hour.

gregoryc1 · January 2005

I went back and reviewed the posting. Could your problem be with the TPS, (Throttle Position Sensor). Maybe the computer does not know when the the throttle is at idle position, (foot off the accelerator). Are you sure that the throttle is closing? Also, you might want to check the motor mounts on this vehicle. Years ago, on rear wheel drive vehicles, a bad motor mount would "pull" on the throttle linkage causing an idle issue. Keep us posted on this problem.

alcan · January 2005

The steering knuckle has to be removed first, rotor & hub removed from knuckle (bolts are behind), then rotor removed from hub:

Brake Disc (Rotor)

Honda Accord/Prelude 1984-1995 Repair Guide

1990-95 Accord

Loosen the lug nuts, then raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.

Remove the wheel.

Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. Please refer to Suspension & Steering for procedures.

Remove the 4 bolts retaining the hub unit to the steering knuckle and remove the hub unit.

Remove the 4 bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake rotor.

To install:

Assemble the disc to the hub unit and tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

When installing the hub to the knuckle, use new self-locking bolts and tighten them to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).

Install the steering knuckle.

Lower the vehicle and check for proper brake operation.

ashaidy · January 2005

round two back to Pasadena Honda dealer 1/26/05. My contact with HOA 800 999-1009. My case # is N032004-11-2901. Together we can apply some pressure and hopefully we shall see the results we are after. If this does not work I shall escalate by contacting the media or an attorney whatever it takes.

dirkpitt73 · January 2005

Good luck! Mine's going in Thurs morning for a second chance to fix it. I told them to keep it as long as it takes, I don't want it back with this issue. The popping and cracking continues unabated. What did HOA say? Do they acknowledge that this is a problem or continue to stonewall?

sandiego1 · January 2005

We have a 2004 V6 EX - had to replace the driver seat leather within 6 months of buying the car. The new leather is deteriating again - this is on the side of the seat that is next to the door. My husband can't seem to slide into the seat without his back rubbing against it when he gets in and out of the car. I think it's because the car sits low (we do not have this issue with the leather in our Sequoia that sits a lot higher). I plan on taking it back and having them replace it again - don't know if they will still cover it under the warranty. This time though, we will also buy a seat cover.

sandiego1 · January 2005

I have a 2004 V6 EX - just turned 30K - noticed that there is this creaking and popping sound that occasionally occurs under the driver's side of the floorboard. I can actually feel the pop against my left foot that is resting on the floor. Only seems to occur after the car has been turned off for several hours, and does it within the first few minutes of driving.

Anyone have any idea?

lookgf · January 2005

I have Honda Accord 2000 LX. Recently, the engine check lamp is always on. I called the dealer and got answer I have to cost over $100 to make diaglostic first. Then schedule to repair. Anybody can give your advice? Is it still under warrantee?

Thanks.

paramatmuni · January 2005

Hello! This is a receipt for a question you recently asked at allexperts.com of Bill . You should receive your reply within 3 days unless you see another number in parentheses by the person's name in the previous sentence. Thanks for using our service!

Your question was

"I have a 1997 4Dr LX Honda accord.I had a problem with my check engine light and emission test.i got my check engine light fixed and sensors replaced.After that there is no check engine light coming.After the sensors are replaced i drove the car and it was fine.The next day when i started the car after 3-4 mins ,i heard noisy groans and RPM fluctuating.I drove my car to a mechanic and saw the car getting over heated.Mechanic has observed the same and said water is drained out and there is a problem with water pump.He filled the radiator with water and it drove fine for 10 miles without any heating.

The mechanic says it is a problem with Water Pump and needs to replace it.He suggested to replace the Timing Belt,Bearing Shaft belt,crank seal,cam seal,water pump,balance seal and Tensioner as part of 120K mantenance.The current miles on the car is 116K.I approached another mechanic after filling with water,he said there is no issue better replace thermostat or radiator.

I am confused on what to do?Should i replace Water pump and all parts or only thermostat or radiator.

Generally should we replace all the above parts as maintenance for every 60,000 miles.

What would be the cost for replacing all?

Can i drive the vehicle in this condition,if so how long and how many miles daily?

ramida · January 2005

Hello,

I have this observation on my 03 Accord.

There are times when I need to completely ease off the gas pedal, either to apply the brake or prepare to slow down. When I then press the gas pedal to accelerate (even slowly), the car kind of shudders (bounces up and down -- tsug, tsug, tsug). Although some "shudders" are light, they are very noticeable and quite annoying because the drive becomes rough and not smooth. Has anyone experienced these shudders or bouncy acceleration?

Thanks.

ramida

gee35coupe · January 2005

I agree with the first mechanic if the timing belt has never been done. It sounds like a bad water pump bearing or maybe a tensioner. If either part siezes it'll wreck your engine.

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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