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Lexus LS: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • acurapassion97acurapassion97 Member Posts: 10
    Ok well, thats the first bit of info I've recieved on that problem....however, my car has never been in an accident. :confuse: So is there anything else that could cause that? Also I don't hear any buzzing. Is this something that is ok to ignore? If thats all it is....I can get used to it, just as long as it isn't damaging the engine.
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    does anyone know much about the amplifier and speakers used in these systems. I just bought a 1999 GS 400 (with 56K miles) on EBay with the Nakamichi system. I was going to listen to it for a few weeks before I do anything but I plan to gut the whole system and install my own head unit, amp, components and sub. I was just wondering if anyone knew more about the Nakamichi system or had done any upgrades themselves.
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    Proper maintenance is changing the oil at around 5k mikes some people still that it has to be changed at 3k the oils in the last few years have been improved greatly. In fact you can go up to 7500 miles on standard oil if you drive it at least 10 miles a day in one direction. It takes about 7-10 miles to completely filter all the oil in the engine, some people only drive a couple miles a day and never get the moistcher from the engine this causes sludge. So if you only drive a 2-3 miles a day it's recommended to change oil at 3k mikes or 3-4 four months to keep down sludge. A lot of people are now going to synthetic oil which can be changed at 10k or even higher with the new mobil 1 extended oil which says the oil can be changed at 15k miles. There is small down side to this is that all cars will consume at least one quart of oil in 10k miles. The Lexus has a warning light that come on when you are about 1/2 quart low on oil a safety factor built in the car. Transmission oil changes it is recommended you should change it every 20-25 thousand miles. I have synthetic transmission oil in my trans and its seems to work just fine I change it every 35-40 thousand miles. Also change your power steering fluid every 25 thousand miles the quick lube places can some time change for you or use a independent garage to this work. Least but last change the oil in the rear end I would have the dealer do this some rear drives require special oil. The lexus LS400/LS430 is the finest car that can be bought anywhere on this planet. One last thing don't forget the antifreeze every 2 years have any good radiator shop back flush the radiator.
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    Have your transmission completely flushed to get out all the old transmission oil and replace it with new oil. Change your transmission oil every 20 to 25 k miles to keep it in shape. Another problem is bumper to bumper traffic is just tearing up our cars and keeping on top of your engine and transmission oil changes is more important today than it was in the past. You also need to change the power steering oil some fast oil change places can do this for you. I your looking for a great independent Lexus/toyota repair in Southern California try Vtech in Lake Forest behind the new car dealers off Lake Forest off ramp where the 5 & 405 freeways meet. I do most of my own maintenance but when I need work on my lexus these are the best I have found for quality work and great prices.Hope this helps some folks looking for a good independent repair shop.
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    about 3 years ago while visiting several shops that do cylinder head repair I asked was there a good fuel injector cleaner on the market. They all came back with Lucas fuel injector cleaner and I have found that my 91 LS 400 never has problems with stalling or hesitation when I come off the line at stop lights and bumper to bumper traffic. Talking with several racing companies they said that the lucas really does work. I found if you go to google and put lucas oil you can find places to buy it all over. Your LS 400 does not need oil additives so just run a good brand of oil and always use the same brand from oil change to oil change due to the different oil companies have different base stocks. For your folks who live in very cold climate in the winter and don't have a heater in the engine block to keep the oil warm on cold nights try mobil one synthetic oil it flows to 45 below zero and where as regular oil is thick and sluggish. The biggest wear on your engine is the cold start up this is why Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, and most racing cars from Europe all now come factory filled with mobil one synthetic oil. I have no affiliation with any oil company I am just a booster of synthetic oil which is far ahead of regular oil. If you want to stay with regular oil it will do the job just fine, there is many good brands of synthetic oil on the market that will help keep your car running for years on only lexus but all brands of cars. Happy motoring and remember take good care of your lexus( or any car) and it will take good care of you.
  • yathribyathrib Member Posts: 2
    I've owned LS400 Lexus since 1991. I have had occassional problem with brakes: applying brakes would cause the car to vibrate. This would normally be taken care of in the next service. I've done in excess of 300,000 km so far. But the brake problem has persisted. A year ago, the dealer advised me to replace the whole brake system with a new one, which I did. And now, the vibrations occur at such a high frequency that I've come not trust the car for long trips. When I complained to the dealer, I was told off record that some 1st Generation LS lexuses were known to have this problem. Indeed, a friend had told me that in U.A.E. some lexuses were recalled. I felt really let down. In 1991 it took a lot of courage to fork out more than $50,000 to buy a startup. And not to be told about the defects; and to be asked to replace the brake system even though it's apparent now that it does not solve the problem!
    Do I have any recourse to a compensation? Please could anyone advise me? Thank you.
  • michael_mattoxmichael_mattox Member Posts: 813
    $50,000 that must have been Canadian....When I priced them in 93 or 94 they were going for $38,000 new. In the U.S.

    I think if the dealer replaced your entire brake system it should work properly or he should still be working on it until it does.
  • yathribyathrib Member Posts: 2
    To be exact, it cost me 52,109.12 USD. But this an aside. Every time the dealer works on my brake system, I pay handsomely. And it does not take more than a month before the problem reappears. I'm weary of these payments that bring temporary relief. If this was a problem that could not be solved, should I continue to pour money into it? What I'm trying to solicit in this forum is if there are other woners of LS 400 who had experienced this problem, and benefi from them....
  • bdkerbbdkerb Member Posts: 3
    Ok, I'm trying to convince my wife we 'need' the LS 430. She's struggling with the price (even though its not if we can afford it, but more the thought of spending so much on a car). She says we can get it all with the Toyota Avalon and save $25,0000.+

    On paper, I'm struggling to argue with her. size is similar. When maxed out in options, it has many of the important luxury's. It's a little slower, but 1 second in 0-60 is hard to justify 25k.

    Help me with my argument. How do I convince her to spend 63k on this car instead of 35-40 on an Avalon?
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    That should convince her easily.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    how hazadous the FWD Avalon can be in wintertime adverse roadbed conditions in comparison to the RWD LS430.
  • famwaldfamwald Member Posts: 114
    Ok, I'm trying to convince my wife we 'need' the LS 430. . She says we can get it all with the Toyota Avalon and save $25,0000.+

    Do I ever understand your situation. Take both for a good, hard test drive---interstate and all. Check trunk space. The newer Avalon trunk is smaller than it used to be. Have her drive both cars as well.

    Historically, I think the LS has better resale value.

    Read this month's Consumer Reports magazine --- it just came in my mailbox today (the September issue) but in giving their review a quick browse, I think it will support your wife's side of the argument.

    Have you browsed the Edmunds.com discussion forum for the new Avalon? You'll pick up on any quirks or complaints there.

    Good luck. Either way, both are great cars, IMHO.
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    I have had the same problem with vibration with the front or rear brakes I have found that the problem is usually that the rotors are slightly warped and need to be turned. I have also left the emergency brake on for a short while and warped the rear brakes. And now when I hit the brakes I get a vibration from the rear and and all I have to do is turn the rotors. I hope this answer helps. I have never heard of the lexus being recalled for brakes, and in California in 1991 the LS400 was only 38,000.00 new and that was all that the dealers charged. Also your tires could be slightly out of balance causing a vibration on slow down or it could possibly be the tires causing the problem. You said in your message that you were not trusting the lexus on along trip, the vibration is a small problem and the lexus will not give you any trouble on any long trips. You own the worlds finest automobile second to none.
  • gwendolyngwendolyn Member Posts: 46
    Hey guys....lately I've started to smell gas....but the smell was very profound in the garage this morning. My guess mileage has not changed....19-22 mpg...what does the gas smell mean....??? Also, I've had my tires balanced several times and still have the vibration @ about 60mph...has michelin harmony tires, with plenty of tread left...what else can I do?

    Thanks....Otherwise, I'm really enjoying the car....Believe it was a good buy!!
  • n16ueln16uel Member Posts: 7
    I too have had brake problems with my 1991 LS400. Car is now at the dealer for a variety of work, including brakes. Dealer charged $40 diagnostic fee to tell me that the few-months-old rotors (which I bought from the same dealer) need turning at a cost of $350 for all four. I declined to accept and am hoping that the new bushings they are installing on the rear suspension will help kill the vibration. If not, I'll remove the rotors myself later and have some local garage turn them for a fraction of the dealer's price. Otherwise a superb car. Bought it in November 2002 from second little old lady owner with 60,000 miles on it and have since raised that to 140,000, having replaced the timing belt and all pulleys, water pump, distributor caps and rotors at 90,000 miles (took me 17 hours), the power steering pump, the front upper and lower control arms and steering tie rods, and more brake rotors and pads than I can remember off hand. Also replaced original 15-inch wheels and noisy Pirelli tires with 16-inch 2003 LS430 wheels (bought new for $100 apiece from a Calif. wheel shop) and much quieter Michelin MXV4s. Car is now in for replacement of seized air-conditioning compressor (and, while they're at it, clutch and receiver dryer and conversion to new refrigerant and recharge -- total $1,700), replacement of all rear bushings (already bought the parts but I threw in the towel on doing the job myself) and new oil pan gasket and dipstick O ring -- adding another $1,700. So for $3,500 outlay now, I hope to get the car back to its original smoothness. Brakes remain a frustration, and I'm going to have to find a cheap place to get the rotors turned if the shakes return -- usually only when brakes are applied at between 50 and 60 mph and virtually never above or below that speed band. Any other ideas for a permanent fix?
  • sv7887sv7887 Member Posts: 351
    Hi all,
    I've never had any brake issues with my 92 LS thus far. I just replaced my rear brake pads at 95K miles. The rotors are all original. Lexus dealers normally offer a one year warranty on all work, so you really should not be paying a cent. I don't see why you should have to replace rotors so often. Have a good independant mechanic have a look. Lexus dealers unfortunately aren't created equal.

    Vibration issues are almost always due to tires. Find a machine shop with a Hunter Load Force Balancer. It is possible that the vibration may be due to ball joints or bushings, but I'd doubt it. I had a severe vibration problem back in 1995 with this LS and they found in the end they had to shimmy the U-Shaft (If I remember correctly) to solve the problem. Also they switched the tires over to a set of Bridgestone Turanzas as well.

    Hope this helps,
    SV
  • flapjack1flapjack1 Member Posts: 2
    HANDS DOWN, THE LEXUS IS THE ONLY CAR. REAR WHEEL DRIVE AND FINEST QUALITY INTERIOR THERE IS. I PURCHASED A 90 LS 400 9 0R 10 YRS AGO. REPLACED THE TIMING BELT AT 90K AND PRESENTLY HAVE 177K ON IT . 2 YRS AGO I PICKED UP A 97 LS 400. WITH 57K ON IT. MY PLAN WAS TO SELL THE 90, BUT THE OLD ONE CONTINUES TO PURR SO MY NICER THAN THE 97 THAT IT IS MY PREFERRED DAILY TRANSPORTATION. MY ATTEMPTS TO SELL IT WERE HALF HEARTED AND GLAD THAT I STILL OWN IT. MY ONLY COMPLAINT ABOUT THE LEXUS REAR WHEEL DRIVE, IS IN SNOW AND ON AN INCLINE, THEY HAVE POOR TRACTION. I SWITCHED TO ALL FOUR SNOW TIRES IN THE WINTER AND IT WAS ALMOST BETTER THAN 4 WD. I BOUGHT A COMPLETE SET OF WHEELS AND TIRES TO CHANGE EACH SEASON. HOWEVER , I HAVE'NT DONE THIS WITH THE 97 MODEL. OVER ALL, LEXUS IS A SUPER VEHICLE.
  • famwaldfamwald Member Posts: 114
    Is it normal for the outdoor temp. indicator to take a long time before it accurately represents the true outdoor temperature?

    When we take our '05 LS out of the garage in the summer heat, it takes over an hour before the true outside temp shows up on the dashboard, even after it has sat parked in the sun (in 95°F heat) for 30 minutes between errands.

    Finally, after 1 1/2 hours or 2 hours, the true outdoor temp will appear.

    Is this normal Lexus experience, or should be contact our dealer? We've never seen this take so long, with our other cars ... past or present. (Volvo, BMW, Toyota)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Digital signal processing.

    Instead of moving the OAT sensor away from the radiator/condensor where it is influenced by radiant heating effect from same Lexus decided to use some DSP, adding a significant delay.

    The OAT is also used to heavily influence the climate control operation and the radiator heat was fouling things up.

    Right after I bought my new 92 I moced the OAT sensor into the right front bumper area.
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    I wonder if the 430 wheels are causing the vibration. They may need "centering rings" to fit properly. It would be worth checking into since this would be a cheap cheap fix.
  • scudman3scudman3 Member Posts: 2
    :sick: Anyone had this experience or something close?
    Driving city streets when radio cut out and then went off. Dash lights went out including gauges. Car continued to run OK. Shut off car, re-started and everything worked OK. Later that day same thing happened. This time I could not put the car in PARK before shutting off the engine. Charged the battery all night and the next day ran fine. Charged again overnight and this morning, the battery warning light came on twice when stopped at a light. What component of this fine car being going bad?
    1996 Lexus LS400
    Thanks
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Let's hope that's it. When a battery goes bad a lot of crazy stuff can happen. My mom had a battery go bad a while back and it drove her "mouse belts" crazy. Try a new battery first. And let's hope it didn't ruin the alternator.
  • scudman3scudman3 Member Posts: 2
    Bad news. Pwr Steering pump leaked into the alternator. Battery is cracked and positive lead highly corroded. New battery, new alternator, new pwr steering pump, new serpentine belt. And as long as your in there, new timing chain.
    $3100 bucks to dealer: Ouch!! :mad: .
    Lesson. If your having to add pwr steering fluid it may be wise to see if it is leaking into your alternator.
  • sv7887sv7887 Member Posts: 351
    Hi All,
    $3100 sounds like too much to me. The Alternator Job itself is around 1,000 but they take apart a significant part of the engine to do it. The Power Steering Pump is $525 or less at Irontoad.com. I had my Power Steering Pump, and Timing Belt along with the 90K service done for $1300 here in Boston. Shop around and get the best price.

    Sorry to hear about that,
    SV
  • stanyslawstanyslaw Member Posts: 17
    My car was driving great I noticed anti freeze under the car one day so I put some stop leak which it worked for 1 week. I was at a light the car was hot making that winding /clicking noise when it get hot but not smoking and the temp gauge was normal. The car stalled on me and wouldn't start back up. I let the car roll back to the curb and parked assuming if I leave and come back it should cool down and start back up, which it didn't just cranking but won't start. I towed it to midas they only mentioned that the timing belt was popped and saying my car was an interfrence engine and that 99% chance that the valves were bent. after telling that and the price to just fix the timing belt $550 never mentioning anything about the leaking anti-freeze I had it towed to my house. The next day I had it towed to another shop and they said the waterpump had seized up popping the belt so I paid him to replace the belt/ waterpump and it wouldn't start, he then said this was an interfrence engine that my valves could be bent but i did a lil research and found out my car isn't a interfrence engine they didn't start that until 1995 ls 400 My lexus dealer confirmed it so my valves should be fine. He said he did a compression test and the left side had none . I had got another opinion saying he may of not set the timing right to read no compression. I had this guy resett the timing which the other guy was off he showed me the marks. He reset them and had me try to start the car it sounded better trying to start then before but it wouldn't start. he tested for fuel delivery that was fine, he tested for spark which it had none at all. he suggest me changing one of the ignition coils which I did today but it still won't start. Any ideas,suggestions that may help get my car started?
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    Timing that engine ( cams -crank ) is a big job are you sure they have it right? The replacement belt has the timing marks on it . Are they using the Lexus shop manual ? Has your mechanic checked for any engine codes ? As for the coils check for 12 volts at the coil + terminal with the ign on to see if power is supplied , those same coils are on many Toyotas a 94 4 runner v6 uses the same one as your Lexus . Check for spark using the coil high tension lead disconnected from the dist cap and held about 1/2 inch from body grd. Good luck
  • stanyslawstanyslaw Member Posts: 17
    hello, the timing marks up top was lined up and he had the bottom on "0". my car is at my home now which there isn't any way to check codes no tester. my check engine light has been on for long as i had the car 8 mths but the car drove super! just before the waterpump went bad and the overheating came into the picture. I noticed the car had stalled on me a couple of times while low idled foot on the break but started right back up which it never did that in the earlier 8mths. Question if there is a bad sensor would it prevent the car from restarting if it failed competely paul29
  • stanford06stanford06 Member Posts: 6
    I had a '90 LS400 that I sold last year with 200K+. Awesome car.

    The bug has bit me again and I want another LS. I've been looking at '95 & up models for the past month and haven't seen anything I felt I wanted to make an offer on until yesterday.

    The car is a silver 1996 LS with only 75K. Seller is asking $13K.

    The Good: the car had 1 local elderly owner and who put on 75K. Drives very well. Very smooth. Clean and sharp looking with chrome wheels.

    The Bad: no moonroof and no CD (odd for an LS), one minor 5" scrape on the front, a couple scratches on the rear bumper, and a couple missing pixels in the radio LCD. Big-O tires. Hmmm.

    The car seems to have been serviced at an independent, but not one that really knows the LS. This is my biggest worry about the car. There's NO repair work that's been done.

    So I'm thinking - at 9 years old this car could need some work in the near future.

    I'm thinking:
    Timing Belt Change (past due in terms of time, if not mileage)
    PS Pump
    Lower Ball Joints, Knuckle Bushings
    EGR Pipe
    Alternator
    AC

    The likelihood that all these things will crop up soon is low, but I want to think about what the car might need in the near future so I can plan ($$$) accordingly.

    I'll get the car inspected at the dealer or a Lexus specialist, but I'm kinda worried about seeing no repairs done on the car.

    Also, the price seems high - I think $11K is about the most these cars fetch.

    What do you guys out there think?
  • lsitzerlsitzer Member Posts: 1
    HI, my name is Les, I just recently bought a 1993 Lexus 400. I was hoping you may be able to answer my question. I had a flat tire, had aaa come over to cahnge the tire and cnat find the key for the lugs, is there anywhere special that it is kept. Thanks for the help.
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    I read different messages about people having water pump problems I have found that I use the Toyota antifreeze mixed with distilled water mixed 50/50 every two years I dump the water out of the radiator and out of the engine block. I always empty both and just refill both and you have to be careful not to get an air bubble in the system. There is a bleeder valve on the front of the motor for this purpose. Also I see a lot of you folks complaining about the power steering pump leaking. Yup they do and the reason is the fluid gets hot and most people never change the power steering fluid. I change it every 30-40 K and I use Mobil one
    synthetic transmission fluid to keep the seals soft and keep down the heat. I also saw someone was told that the older Lexus engines would break a valve if the timing belt broke no not normally I recommend changing the timing belt at 90,000 miles with the water pump and the idlers pulleys and all fan belts this way you take care of everything at once. Another tip use the two dollar car wash to clean out your condenser and radiator
    to help run your car cooler during the summer don't spray the engine with water it goes down into the spark plug tunnels and shorts the electric system. Just spray the outside of the radiator and condenser a lot of junk comes out. Remember always change the water pump when changing the timing belt needed or not change it or it will go out a few thousand miles later and the cost is big then it will rip the timing belt to bits. Happy motoring.
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    You do not need a tester to get the engine codes , on the left ( driver's side ) front top of the engine is a grey box , lift cover and a pin diagram is shown under the cover . turn the ignition on and Jump E1 and TE1 . Read the code/s from the blinking check engine light on dash . For your interest only , go to http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html to see how the timing belt is changed and the timing marks on the belt and related parts . There is no recommended replacement interval for that belt unless in your case "damage" or the vehicle is used in specific extended low idle conditions . These are not the same belts as used years ago this engine uses a "HSN " type belt (highly saturated nitrile) As for a sensor causing a no start it depends on which sensor so the ans is yes/no . I would advise anyone with a check engine light on to get the codes read.
  • rgswrgsw Member Posts: 333
    I have always found my lug key under the trunk floor, to the left of the spare tire, where the tire tools are stored. It is usually found in a little black plastic/vinyl bag. Good luck.
  • rgswrgsw Member Posts: 333
    Excuse my double post. I have always found my lug key under the trunk floor, to the left of the spare tire, where the tire tools are stored. It is usually found in a little black plastic/vinyl bag. Good luck.
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    In the LS it originally comes in the drop down tool kit on the left side of trunk .
  • n16ueln16uel Member Posts: 7
    Thanks to those who responded to the recent posting about brake and bushing problems on my 91 LS400. A $4,000 donation to the Lexus dealer has fixed the bad bushings, but the dealer failed to follow my instructions to install all the bushings I had bought from them earlier and provided them before they started the job. Turning the rotors has fixed the brake pulsating for now. They replaced the seized A/C compressor, and pretty much everything else, saying there was contamination downstream from the compressor. I looked at the removed parts and their tiny openings and cannot fathom how they ascertained there was contamination. Another Lexus dealer told me they had never seen contamination from a seized compressor. Any comments? Car was running like new until today, when a turn of the key elicited nothing more than a click from the starter motor. Cleaned the battery posts and clamps, but still nothing more than a click. Spent a while trying to locate the starter and finally found it lurking at the back of the engine beneath the intake manifold. I see from another LS owner site that replacing the starter cost one owner $1,600 -- at the dealer most likely. I plan to remove the intake manifold myself but am wondering if, after all that work, I should install a complete remanufactured Nippondenso starter or just replace the contacts in the existing 15-year-old starter. Any guidance from owners who have already faced this decision would be much appreciated.
  • oldnslowoldnslow Member Posts: 4
    I had planned to locate and buy an early series LS, or anything up through about '99, but the comments, complaints and problems described in this forum have all but turned me off. I have been unhappy about expensive maintenance expenses on my 2001 Sienna, but they are nothing compared to what I've been reading here.
    I sold my 1993 Buick Park Avenue 2 years ago with 189k on it, and all it ever needed was struts, front brakes, and an alternator. The guy I sold it to now has 260k on it and it works fine. I guess I'll start shopping for a low-mile Buick. I guess Lexus is just too rich for my retired blood.
  • stanyslawstanyslaw Member Posts: 17
    I need to see how this belt on a lexus ls 400 is correctly installed
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Rule of thumb...Many cars that start out expensive to buy, aren't cheap to run. Lexus's may have a stellar reputation for reliability but when repair or maintenance is required it's not gonna be cheap. Especially not Buick cheap when the 3.8 has been around since Methuselah days. There is no foriegn "premium" luxury car that's as cheap to keep on the road as a GM machine that shares parts from Chevy to Cadillac.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    My personal one, a 92 bought new, had a failed oxygen sensor at about the five year mark (DIY) and otherwise only brake pads, oil and filter changes. No ATF, no brake fluid, no diff'l 90 weight. Only exception was OEM anti-freeze was removed about 2 years ago due to being a bit murky. Alternator failed just a few months ago but leaking PS had nothing to do with that failure. Soft slip rings was ther apparent problem. Both solved DIY.

    Three more LSes in the "family", two more 92's and a 95. Same story with those xcept the intake manifold exhaust line broke, another DIY.

    One of the 92's was totalled by the insurance company and I repurchased it and it is being repaired for about $8,000.

    Personally I would buy a used 98-2000 LS before even considering a new one.

    Even if you use the dealer for scheduled maintenance the expenses can be kept well in line by forcing the dealer to abide strictly by the factory recommendation guidlines.

    Don't let the do ANYTHING (scheduled) that isn't recommended in the owner's manual, PERIOD!
  • flapjack1flapjack1 Member Posts: 2
    I WOULD BET THE TEMP SENSOR IS BAD, OR INSULATED WITH SOME FOREIGN MATERIAL AROUND IT. THAT IS NOT NORMAL FOR ANY CAR. I WOULD HAVE IT CHECKED BY A SERVICE GARAGE.
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    There should be a diagram on the underside of the hood , just behind the grill . If your's is gone go here http://lextreme.com/belt.html
  • oldnslowoldnslow Member Posts: 4
    I fully understand the cost of repairs would be on the high side, as well as parts, but the fact that they seem to need so much fiddling around with is what bothers me. Indicator lights that fail, and little things like that don't strike me as quality built to last. Even when I was working and had to tolerate a new Taurus company car every other year, I never had an indicator light failure of any kind, but transmissions were another matter. The piddly, annoying failures in Lexus' systems seem inappropriate for a car of it's perceived quality. Why in hell would it be a design advangage to locate the steering pump above the alternator when it is known that frequent pump seal failures would result in replacing both parts? Why is the water pump such a weak link it is suggested it be replaced with every timing belt change? Maybe I expect too much, but I have been turning wrenches as a hobby for over 40 years, and seldom hesitate to question engineering anomalies. Common sense just doesn't seem to be in fashion these days.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I've been a DIYer since learning to drive a Ford Ferguson (then Farmall, John Deere, etc.) back on the farm in the fifties.

    Water pump failures have been a constant, persistent, failure in all cars for as long as I can remember. Drive belt side pressure on the one single shaft bearing is a part of the failure mode as is the rubber seal that prevents the water pressure from getting to the bearing.

    AND:

    The PS stearing pump location and the fact that it develops a leak has absolutely NOTHING to do with the alternator failure!

    Until the alternator failed in my 92, and the PS was leaking, I assumed that the leak story was well founded.

    NOT!

    Having been through a few a alternator "failures" previously I purchased a set of slip ring brushes for it at the same time I purchased the PS overhaul kit. In the end I could have left the PS pump intact, leak and all, and it wouldn't have mattered.

    It turned out that the slip ring brushes were in quite good shape but the slip rings themselves were worn through all the way down to the metal shaft.

    I suspect Lexus would very much like us to believe that these alternator failures are due to PS leaks. Other than a manufacturing flaw how is it possible for a set of "soft" graphite slip rings brushes to wear the solid copper slip rings out in ~100,000 miles?
  • oldnslowoldnslow Member Posts: 4
    It makes sense to me. Misinformation seems to run on about almost everything, which leaves only the water pump issue. I haven't replaced a water pump on any vehicle since I had a 1969 International pickup, so I'm lucky, I guess. I was in the auto parts business during the '60's, and at least at that time water pumps were a real weak spot on everybody's engines. Most failures are due to over-tightening of the belt, in addition to a too-small bearing. I never could understand why manufacturers used such tiny bearings for water pump shafts. I never saw the data but I imagine there exists load versus failure frequency on those things. Cost savings at the manufacturing level, I presume.
    I have done a lot of reading over the years about Lexus, and until reading this forum was under the impression they are nearly fault-free if maintained properly. If I do eventually buy one, I can look forward to it being at least a little like working on my old motorcycles; a hands-on bonding experience.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    But expensive to get to. I know on Hondas they are driven by the timing belt and will ruin the engine if they sieze. So as a rule of thumb, you replace the water pump with the timing belt. On the LS, the timing belt is not even a wear item. At least not on my '94. So if I decide to change the timing belt , I might as well change the water pump, seals, tensioners, and all related parts since it may be a one time service.
  • sv7887sv7887 Member Posts: 351
    Hi All,
    My wallet sure took a beating at the dealer today...I have to spend $2500 on the 92 to replace the following things: Upper Control Arm (Right Side) Strut Rod Bushings, Power Steering Rack, Power Steering Pressure Hose, Rear Assembly Bushings, and possibly some more depending on whether they can find what is causing the clunking noise in the front side suspension...Initially they quoted me $3700 and I promptly told them where to go..Their attitude was beyond comprehension, "We have customers that spend $9-10,000 on these cars..It depends how much you really like the car.."

    I told them that this was one of the most absurd things I've ever heard...What is the point of purchasing these cars if they fall apart within 13 years? They gave me a 15% discount on parts so we agreed to $2500. Maybe it's time for a Mercedes. There are plenty of Independents who can fix those..

    SV
  • stanyslawstanyslaw Member Posts: 17
    I took that grey diagnosis box off and seen the codes under the cap, what do you use and how do you get the codes to flash on the dash once the car switch is on?
  • mfprmfpr Member Posts: 41
    I understand that spending $2500 on auto repairs can get someone upset, but after all, your car is a '92. Maybe you should read your own post once again, especially "What is the point of purchasing these cars if they fall apart within 13 years?". Then re-read your other statement 3-4 times, "Maybe it's time for a Mercedes" then go to the Mercedes forums and check out their reliability (on NEW ones much less 13 year old cars) and the cost to repair them.
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