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Comments
If the elements (lines) are broken and there are not too many breaks, they can be *carefully* repaired using a soldering iron.
If you like a smooth quiet ride with responsive handling I am sure you will like the Revo Z's.
I have been told that Bridgestone Potenzas have a lower RFV than Revo Z's however they are a high performance tire and not a touring tire and are not as quiet riding. I have noticed that Potenzas are standard equipment on many new GS400's.
Go with the Revo Z's. Bridgestone have the 30 day return warranty so you can exchange them if you don't like them. I am sure you will, after you recover from the price shock!
Like I said, is in really good shape all leather is fine, the belt and water pump where changed at 118K miles front brakes done, but here is the thing that makes me think more than twice about buying it...it has 175k miles I think that is a lot but I would like to know what can I expect from this vehicle.....in my area this vehicles are selling for around 8K with a good a/c but I have not seen one in this good shape everything else on this car works good if anybody knows of any surprises that might be awaiting for me.....let me know thanks you can e-mail me at radiaz@dellepro.com
Thanks for your note on the engine knock earlier. I got the repair manual recently and tested the EGR modulator and EGR valve. They all tested fine. I road tested it once with the EGR valve bypassed entirely (disabling the control vacuum line), the knocking actually got worse. I now have everything back to normal, and the knocking appears in light throttle in speed around 15-40 mph for about a second or two. The timing at idle is around 8 degree. I've already tried different brands of gas. My next step is to change the spark plugs back (I changed them to Bosh platinum plugs a month ago). Do you know if anyone had problem with these plugs? The engine seems very clean (regular oil changes). I'm not sure if it needs a intake valve deposit cleaning. What else could it be? I realize this little bit of knocking may not do much harm. I just want to figure out why. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
I saw quite a bit of listing with people had fast idle issues. My car is running around 1600-1700 RPM when cold, and it'll last for about 5min. I tested a couple of changes on the engine temperature sensor. By putting a 500 ohm resistor parallel to the temperature sensor wires, it got the fast idle down to 1100-1200 RPM. The trick is not to have the resistor connected at the very first cold start. You need to put a switch in between (turn the resistor on after some seconds of running). This way, the engine will start with the normal cold start routine (cold start injector kicks in). If the resistor is connected all the time, the engine will start up rough running around 500-700 RPM, then slowly going up to 1200 RPM. I tried it with a relay controlled by the side marker light. I started the car normally without the resistor connected; let it run for about 15 seconds, then turned the side marker light on (turns the resistor on), then drove away with 1100RPM fast idle. It worked well. KAU
I did not observe the 7 to 8 quarts drain out of the trans. I refilled and it, and it took less then the amount I was told it would. I could only put in a max of 2 to 2 1/12 quarts (Or half of the type IV container. 4 liters in container total).
What happened?
I also cannot find a specidfic proper method to check the trans fluid, the owners manual is vague about how to. Any advice?
Thank you
Sheldon
Just changed out the fuel filter, air filter, plug wires, and plugs...
The vast amount of transmission fluid is stored in the torque convertor. When the trans pan is dropped, only fluid inside the transmission body(eg. valve mechanics) is removed and not inside the torque convertor.
I am amazed at how lucky I got with this unit, the more I drive it the more I like it, and there is nothing wrong everything works well right now.
I was thinking of changing plugs car has 72,500
what do you think ?
Sheldon
Is this unusual? What can I expect to have to do to repair? Are there any ways to save on this repair if needed?
Fans are controled by water temp in radiator and pressure in AC system.
All cars including Rolls have AC compressors which typically fail at 8-10 years or sooner.
When compressor fails it pushes particles into system so other things must be replaced or the new compressor will fail soon [1 day after 12 month warranty]....evap and dryer......AC comp doesn't fail without making noise for some time-- insensitivity costs money. Pay to have entire system flushed twice then new dryer and compressor!
Trying to save money with half AXXED fixes always cost more in the long run unless you plan on dumping your problems on to someone else.
Tires depends on where you live and how much safety you want to purchase ....soft dedicated snow ice tires by Michelin Alpine Pilots in H rating can survive no snow highway driving...more info please --location, driving style,etc.
I live in Philadelphia. Some winters, nothing; others, ice, snow and the occaisonal blizzard. Mix of city/highway. We only dirve 5,000-6,000 miles per year. Winter tires are more a precaution than an absolute need. Thanks.
Can you give me more info as to where and how to do it. I'd rather do it myself then take it somewhere.
Also I am curios about something else....In my search for an older Luxury car I have looked at many models and makers Mazda Millenia, Mitsubishi Diamante, Acura, but when I got to the Infinity and Lexus the decision was tough, I really think that those other that I mentioned earlier do not compare to the Infity and the Lexus. I have my own reasons why I'm more inclined to the Ls400, But I wonder since you know this cars so well, What makes you like the Infinity over the Lexus?
Both cars will be more expensive due to higher parts costs the maintenance and repairs can run between 10 and 15 cents per mile driven based on 100k or 6 years to keep the car as new.
What most don't consider is that lux cars are usually sold when [and with] significant repair issues accumulate. We always recommend that NEW used buyers reserve $2,000-$3,000 or more to fix the little hidden issues.
You cannot reach far inside the plenum so removal or a special fogger system must be used.
Look behind the throttle plate for a significant EGR build up.
Systems should not leak if they do you must fix the leak regardless of R type.....however R12 is getting harder and more expensive to purchase currently around $900 per 30 pounds wholesale and eventually it will be impossible to obtain plus federal law requires that leaking systems not be recharged.
it is a defeat switch, so it only lights up as trac/off when you've turned it off.
I would say that if you want to keep your car in tip top shape, it might not pay to buy one with 150,000 miles, even if it costs just 8,000 or so. Especially when you factor in the hassle of having in the shop. I think a better bet is finding one at just under 50K, biting the bullet and paying $30,000 for it, investing another $1500 or so in a comprehensive extended warranty, and driving it till 100K, or even 150K miles, as some warranties now cover that far out. It may not be perfect, but most repairs should be covered. You'll spend more on interest and depreciation, but far less on maintenance. Plus you get the advantage of a newer and improved model to drive, with fewer breakdowns. Then again, if you can buy one at $8,000 and drive it two years, you can consider it disposeable and let things break. It'd still be worth a few thousand even with broken stuff. \
I think simple cars are a better bet to drive cheaply with very high miles.
Personally I prefer to pay for repairs which I can control than have something automatically deducted from my asset base, but I have spare time.
Newer technology does not mean a longer lasting or more economical car to buy and own, it may have lower emisssions until 120k or 57 air bags when a real 4 point racing harness would be safer.
The major cost of maintenance are brakes and tires if you keep these heavy lux cars to as new specs, as just any old tire or pad will not work correctly as they have tried to squeeze every oz. out of performance.
The purchase price of an old [89,90,91] luxosport is small because the maintenance and repairs will equal it every 2-3 years!
I have always said you can buy an old Q cheap [$5k] or pay $4,000 more for the same year Lexus but 3 years later you will have spent the same total money...worse with BMW 740, Audi A8.
We have a 1990 Q with 403,200 miles which we purchased at 260,000 miles from a traveling salesman.
I was confused as to how much fluid to put back in after the change. According to earlier posts dropping the pan would remove all the fluid (8 quarts). Now I am told it would not. In any case after the removal of fluid I filled in a can of "4 L" (Liters?) and I could not get a correct reading. The following morning I drained some thinking it was over filled. The tranny began to slip especially when downshifting at slow speeds into first gear.
I feel when I start to drive and fluid is cold the tranny does not shift well. I checked the fluid (running 5 minutes & short drive) and it was low (level ground engine running) after a longer drive it raised up to the hot level.
I feel the transmission slipping now when it downshifts to 1 st gear. If I come close to a full stop and then press the accelerator I can feel the tranny slip!.
I am afraid to drive the car and possibly do further damage to the tranny!.
I am stressed out, perhaps the type IV was a mistake to use, perhaps the level was incorrect after refilling.
I must do something but I do to know what.
I was thinking of bringing car to Lexus dealer and request a total drain and then to refill system with correct fluid and correct level.
I also consider that dealers just drain from plug only and do not remove all fluid. In addition dealers will put back the amount requested by the book when my tranny has possibly to much or too little and a partial drain will leave a incorrect level again.
Please help, please advise what should I do?.
Sheldon
I made the mistake of letting an oil change place change my tranny fluid on my '91 Pathfinder. They drained the pan. Then looked at manual and way over filled. I caught it but only after I had driven it for several thousand miles. Too late. Tranny faled 20,000 miles later.
Then I made the same mistake with my '95 Suburban. The first tranny fluid change, I did myself. Was careful to measure what I took out. Then put back same amount. The second change, I let the dealer do. Big mistake. They drained the pan, checked manual and way over filled! You would think the dealer would know how to do it right. Or maybe not. I caught this mistake after about 600 miles. So far I have put about 20,000 on this fluid change. Tranny is beginning to make noise when downshifting from 2nd to 1st. Time will tell.
Bottom line, I do not trust ANYBODY to work on my car. And when I have no choice, I check and double check everything they do. I question and re-question.
"Fool me once...shame on you...fool me twice...shame on me"
Chip
His suggestion.
A- disconnect battery and reconnect allowing system to reconfigure itself.
B- Screen Filter could be imporperly installed
C- Check fluid level again
I checked fluid level, and this time I got a high reading!. I put the auto on ramps and prodeeded to drain some fluid. I observed pan and found no leaks or visible problems.
After draining I cheked fluid level again and it was low. I added knowing I would need to top it off. Now I cannot get the fluid back over the COLD section. I keep taking the car for 10 to 15 minute rides (Hard acceleration, observing shifts) in between checking and the fluid changes back and forth from bright red to dark red in color. I am also adding little by little and have stopped because this was the earlier problem where it appeared to be low, and now if I keep adding and adding the level will be too high, again. I did notice better shifting after draining indicating that the fluid was probably too high. I decided to use the car for several days and check level again.
Sheldon (oiy Vey!)
I have been miserably trying to bleed the line with no success...
If you post a fax number I can fax the pages pertaining to your pump replacement and system bleed.
Good luck Sheldon
Level is good now, shifts better and I hope I did not cause damage by (I am sure now) over filling system after pan drop.
Sheldon
I'll sure take you up on that offer to fax me instructions on the power steering. My fax # is 713.625.4583 attn: Cayette.
Thanks.
We have found the OEM plugs to have superior performance. On the LS the plugs are fairly easy to change so if you make a mistake it can be corrected in a few hours.
Unless one of the 4 electrodes [on the Bosch +4] breaks off and scores the cylinder wall....seen this a few times.
I had new brakes and rotors installed on my ls(rear). before i did that the car rode smooth. after it was done the tires were rotated. now my car seems to give me a lite shimmy between 60-80 mph. when i press the brakes at such speeds the steering shimmies. at low speeds -the car brakes fine-no shimmy at all. what is your analysis. I took the car back to the shop and asked them to balance my tires because of this. after i p/u the car it was pretty much the same leading me to believe they did not do a thing. i am sure they didnt. I am pissed at them and will not give them any more business.
How would you recommend that I go about changing my tranny oil, after your bad experience?
Many times new rotors or trued rotors are not in spec after the work is done.
When you feel it in the steering wheel it is on the front as opposed to seat/rear skipping back and forth.
When the 60-80 mph shimmy increases with brake application the front rotors are usually warped!
I have a 1994 LS that has a new problem, and here it is. When at low speeds I will apply the brake and the past 2 days the radio would go off (like a CD skipping) and jump right back to where it left off (like when I am listing to a CD)this does not happen all the time just a few, Now today the radio AND the instrement cluster both shut off, but it was only for a second. First off I had a similar problem before and well it turned out to be a corroded battery port (it was the left one dunno if that is positive or negative) and Lexus fixed the port (cleaned I suppose) but did not replace with New parts and well I just had a new battery put in this summer , and well maybe that agrivated the weak cable and this is happening , i am just getting afraid here becasue if I have a serious electrical issue than i am in for some CO$tly repairs and i dont need that (Have already spent the annual $3,000 in repairs on various major parts ( like power steering pump AND an entirely new Rack and Pinion that $1,000 in itself. so if anyone has an idea of what this problem could be, PLEASE post , I Am really scared about going to Lexus because everytime I walk in there and I spend at least a quarter of a grand and this could be ALOT (praying it is not)ohh yea the car has 97,000 on it. So PLEASE if someone can advise please post it would be greatly appriciated !
Happy Lexus Owner,
Paul