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Lexus LS: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • lxusruleslxusrules Member Posts: 33
    My 91 LS400 AC failed after 106K miles. It blows warm air. Compressor seems to kick in when AC is turned on... My mechanic told me it has enough freon... He told me I probably need new compressor. He says locally rebuilt AC compressor will be $475 total job. If I get the Nippon Denso rebuilt AC compressor, it will be $625 total job. He says you can't no longer get the new compressor even from the lexus dealer. He will have to take out my freon and put new stuff (R-135?) in.
    Should I get second opinion from another auto shop? or take it to air conditioning repair shop?
    What are my choices now? Who would give me best and honest opinion?
    Please help me.

    Dan from SoCal
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Does you compressor cycle on AND off automatically?

    Lexus A/C compressor will never cycle "on" unless there is enough refrigerant, freon, in the system to maintain the "high" pressure side at a minimum level. Once cycled "on" it will typcially cycle off once the high presssure side has reached a maximum pressure level.

    If your compressor does cycle off, typically within minutes, but on initial A/C system startup longer, then the compressor is working reasonably satisfactorily and you should look elsewhere.

    The "blend" door, probably.
  • blackoutblackout Member Posts: 9
    hey i'm black. had my car inspected and turns out my rotors were not properly resurfaced . this time around the job was done right. now i have no more problems as i had described. thanks for all your input. btw, this is the last time i resurface my front.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Sounds like your mechanic is planning to reclaim your freon (it's against the law to just dump it) and sell it at a substantial premium.

    Another thing to try if your compressor does indeed cycle off.

    Move the setpoint all the way down to 65F (max COLD), that's supposed to over-ride all of the sensors and just move the blend door to lock out any heating.

    If the above works then have a look at the possibilty of an open cabin temperature sensor, just above the driver right knee.

    This sensor being open would indicate that teh cabin is SUPERCOLD already.
  • lxusruleslxusrules Member Posts: 33
    I found no one willing to work with freon...
    You mean by cycling off... the compressor turns off by itself? I haven't tried that. The air is blowing and the compressor kicks in but the air temp is warm. I am pretty sure I set the temp to 65F or lower.

    Today, I called a few Auto A/C shops...
    They all want diag. fee anywhere from $40 - $150.
    I may take it in to them for diag.
    In worst case, if it's a bad compressor, I think the part cost for compressor and clutch is close to $1000.
    Can I get cheaper part? What are my options?

    Thanks for your input guys.

    Dan
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The job of the compressor is to pressurize the freon one it has vaporized into a gas after passing through the evaporator. Once pressurized the "gas" flows through the condensor (in front of the radiator) and is condensed back into liquid form by cooling.

    There is a switch that turns the compressor off once there is enough "reserve" freon in liquid form. And then back on again as teh liquid is depleted, etc, etc, etc.
  • tubaltubal Member Posts: 7
    I just had the A/C redone in my '91 LS. The total job (tax and everything) costed me around $1800 bucks. That wasn't even from the dealer.

    They replaced the compressor, the dryer, some hose that supposedly took 3.2 hours to change, and one other part. They charged me $800 for the compressor, which I could have boughten for $300 from the same place they did.

    Atleast I have peace of mind and a warranty and a cold car here in Phoenix, AZ.
  • lxusruleslxusrules Member Posts: 33
    I thought I had a bad AC compressor, but when I turn it on and leave it for about 5 minutes on the Freeway, one of the air outlet get's pretty cold, but other ones are warm... What gives?
    Maybe all I need is more freon?
    What are your thoughts?

    Dan
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    When thinking about a repair after you have worn out the system [10-12 years old] and [never done any preventative maintenance on it - shame]! You never thought to change the receiver dryer after 3-4 years to extend system life by removing any moisture, you never thought to change the lubricating oil, you never even thought to clean the evap/condenser coils.
    AC has been available on cars for 47 years it has changed little in basic design until R134a [1994]and that was very minor.

    You have to decide the quality of the components you want to buy since all shops only give a 12/12,000 mile warranty. Are you going to keep the car another year or 6 more!

    The labor of changing an evaporator can equal the parts cost. Something like a heater/air mix door can require the whole dash to be removed and take 8-10 hours to replace a $50 part.

    Similiar situation with compressors there are different qualities of fully rebuilt to brand new standards, partially rebuilt, cheaply rebuilt, and just barely returned to function but noiser than new units available. And the wholesale price doesn't vary $100 from top to bottom.

    Many ac systems are repaired just ENOUGH to function and never meet as new cooling specs.

    Many just change the worn out compressor [using the same old clutch] when the evaporator has a small leak that allowed the R12 to leak out slowly overstressing the compressor to failure.....same with leaky o rings at compressor or receiver dryer. Then the higher pressure from the new compressor blows out the evaporator 6-13 months later.

    Strange that most wait till the middle of Summer when all shops are busy and rushed and overloaded instead of January when they are begging for business and deals might be cut or at least the time spent might result in a higher quality repair.

    When you change any component the system must be vacuumed down to remove the moisture that rushed in: cheapo 10-15 minutes or primo 30, 45 minutes processing is an option. Same with diagnosis rushed or leisurely precise. Same with PAO/PAG oils cheapo or premium with UV dyes, same with o rings [$1 or 10 cent ones].

    Worse are the ones who get talked into an R12 to R134a conversion [to save $100 worth of R12]....if you fix the leaks you don't need more R12 but every 4-5 years yet the half assed conversion never cools as well as the oem system.

    Spend a little time learning how the system works as you will have AC as long as you drive and the repair cost will reoccur every time especially if you don't do any preventative maintenance!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    And when was the last time you changed out the dryer on your refrigerator or your freezer?

    This preventative maintenance bit is getting "way" out of hand.
  • jeffmust2jeffmust2 Member Posts: 811
    ...and making an analogy to household appliances that typically cost 1-2% of a new Lexus, run 10-15 years without a major failure, and then are tossed away as consumable items is not appropriate.

    Unless your rewired fridge can hit 0-60mph under 7 seconds while it takes you and your luggage to the airport.

    Q45man is a valued contributor to this board and while my own personal experience with two LS400s doesn't quite validate his position that one needs to spend upwards of $2k-$3k per year in maintenance to keep them up to spec (let's hear it for long OEM warranties!), I very much appreciate his many valuable, knowledgable posts in many different areas of Lexus repair.

    Unlike yours, to be candid.

    I mean, Wwest, who else would sue Lexus over the "defective" HVAC system in their early LS, lose the case, buy another Lexus with the same vendor's HVAC system, then complain ad nauseum about the same supposed defects all over again?

    And I'll bet that Q45man spends more hours working on Lexus models in a week than all your lifetime, Micky Mouse RX rewiring jobs combined.

    But that's just my opinion - yours may differ.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I was trying to address q45man's "campaign" for preventative maintenance on automotive A/C systems, ONLY.

    Really significant improvements have been made in automotive A/C to the point that the "dryer" spoken of is really only there to take care of the small amounts of moisture trapped within the system during manufacture.

    Now, if a leak develops in teh sysetm or it needs repair for some reason then I would agree wholeheartedly that the dryer be replaced, and then be replaced again within some short period.

    But basically I have the same position on preventive maintenance of A/C systems as I do brake systems, if it ain't broke, don't "fix" it!

    My analogy to refrigerator and freezers is not perfect, but both have quite thoroughly SEALED systems wherein absent some sort of failure there is no need to "open" them.

    Today's freezers and refrigerator's cooling systems seem to be lasting 20 to 30 years, 24/7 useage. Why shouldn't I expect that same kind of service, with NO preventative maintenance, from the Lexus cooling system?
  • dealerfloridadealerflorida Member Posts: 50
    This is an open forum where we post opinions. If you do not like a persons opinion that is your choice, however do ask others to back off.
    I appreciate both Q45 and WWEST, equally. They are from 2 different camps, and the opposing styles lend objectivity to the site and enrich its content.

    To fix when things break is just a style, and there is a good argument for its practice.

    To perform extensive preventive maintenance (Above & beyond the call of the manufacturer) is costly & in some cases causes more damage then good. The fact is that your auto will perform better with such thorough maintenance. Just how much will you invest into a 10 year old luxo car with 150k plus miles? when does the concept of drive her until she croaks kick in?

    I drained the tranny fluid from my 97 LS 400. My mechanic over filled the fluid, the drain plug was also stripped. I am not sure if it was stripped prior to the fluid drop. In any case I had to change the pan and fluid at dealer to the tune of $500.00 bucks. Now I know you will say my mechanic sucks and he is a moron etc etc. I will however say, I wish I never disturbed the tranny at all.
    I have friends who fix nothing, and spend little to zero on maintenance & their cars run fine. I am the anal retentive one constantly tinkering and concerned with all noises and parts replacement etc. I think they pay less overall and enjoy more. I am not about to change though, so it is a matter of personal style.
    As for my A/C I have decided to just leave it alone, if and when it breaks I will deal with it.

    Auto A/C and home appliances are a apples to oranges comparo. Think of the consistent amps, voltage and use of home apps. not to mention the compressor size. The car is a small belt driven compressor, cools a larger cubic foot area & should do so in short period of time, system sits idle 6 months a year, withstands potholes temperature changes and so many more issues, not a good example.

    Enjoy diversity
  • jeffmust2jeffmust2 Member Posts: 811
    One is Fantasy Camp and the other is Real World Camp.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Perhaps I should start putting in more detail. Refrigeration systems are ALWAYS under pressure and therefore ALWAYS sealed, These days apparently very well sealed. Once the system is sealed at the factory it is much more likely that refrigerant and lubricant will leak OUT, rather than have moisture "leak" IN.

    I don't especially like the term "anal retentive" but I guess that's the term I would apply to myself also with regards keeping my vehicles up to snuff and in perfect working order.

    I don't work in the industry, not even remotely, my background is in electronics and for the past 20 years or so that even that trade has been secondary. I guess I have to admit that I "fly" a desk now.

    The information you see me put here is information I have gleamed from various sources over the years, and currently, simply because I do want the peak performance and reliability, long term, that I can get out of my vehicle ownership.

    I didn't drive two Ford station wagons for over 250K without always performing the "proper" (not frivolous) maintenance.
  • blackoutblackout Member Posts: 9
    I thought the 'clunk' sound I was hearing was probably due to a bad strut or something. Turns out -not. The tech showed me the play that the left side ball joint has. As he did this , that sound was also heard. He pointed out that it needs to be replaced.(worned out) He said its easy, unscrew two screws, take out lower ball joint replace and u know the rest.Do we have to do both sides, since only one side has the damage? And does this really have to be done by the shop?
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    There is really no shame in doing too little or too much maintenance. Both ways have pros and cons. Ultimately, the owner/driver of the car has to deal with condition of the car and the their consequences.
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    Automotive AC system is sealed but not completely seal. With time, small airborne molecules will find their ways into the AC system via rubber hoses and O-rings. Thus, it is good to change the dryer at some intervals. Other than that, I would not touch the AC if it is not leaking or broken even though I have the skill and equipments to do a complete AC overhaul.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Since the A/C system is ALWAYS ABOVE atmospheric pressure, how is this possible?

    You seem to be saying the airborne (gaseous water) molecules will find their way into, as a for instance, an inflated balloon.
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    Blackout,

    How did the tech showed you a worn ball joint? I suspected my LS's ball joints were worn as well but had not gotten around to test them. Ball joints are not difficult to replace and you can DIY, and, no, you don't have to replace both sides.
  • blackoutblackout Member Posts: 9
    He showed me the worn ball joint-lower ball joint that is. (Car is on a lift) He moved the tire up and down, as he pushed the tire up , that is when I heard the noise it usually makes when I go over a bump on the road. Too much 'play' was obvious.
  • blackoutblackout Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for your reply. I can purchase the ball joint and replace myself.. It appears to be doable without getting too beyond myself.
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    Yes, airborne molecules will eventually find their way into your AC system even when the system's pressure is higher that atmospheric pressure. A basic thermodynamic principle taught in high school chemistry and/or physics classes, is that any system will tend to go to toward disorderly (greatest entropy). From this law, one can explain diffusion and osmotic pressure. Pressure is nothing more than a representation of concentration (in parts per volume) which in turn behaves according to the law stated above. Diffusion and osmotic movements continue till an equilibrium state is achieved. At a state of equilibrium diffusion and osmotic movements continue but only to maintain the existing equilibrium.
    To make a long story short, the concentration of airborne particles in the atmosphere is higher than the concentration of same particles in an AC system (assuming the AC is "clean"). The only significant factor that affects diffusion is the permeability of the system (such as hoses & O-rings). I lieu of that high AC pressure serves to slightly retard the diffusion rate of airborne particles into the AC system, but given enough time, enough airborne particles would have entered the AC system to make the perceived higher pressure inside an AC system worthless as a barrier. However, higher pressure inside an AC system serves to depress the concentration of airborne particles inside the system RELATIVE to the concentration of Freon in the AC system (hint: definition of pressure).

    ...and yes, airborne molecules will find their way into and out-of any balloon if it is permeable whether or not the balloon is inflated as long as entropy is not as highest level. The laws of thermodynamic applies to any and ALL systems.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    No "water" inside the system.

    No freon, "relatively" outside the system.

    If I follow your dissertation correctly the freon will try to get out, and the water will try to get in. Since the freon is under more "pressure" to "get out" than the water molecules are to "get in", it seems I would lose refrigerant at a much higher rate than gaining water and that would be the real determing factor in when to "open" an A/C for "surgery".

    And...

    Find me an inflated balloon that doesn't deflate long before your theory holds water. If the balloon is porus enough (and it clearly is) for molecules to pass, then the overall pressure will equalize first.

    AND...

    I suspect that in this case your "given enough time" might be longer than many of us live...
  • tubaltubal Member Posts: 7
    Hey all. I had a few questions about AC. I just had my compressor, lines, dryer, etc replaced to the tune of $1700 bucks from a local A/C shop. They said that they left it R-12. Obviously there's a year warranty, but what should I expect from my AC system now? It blows cold, but it takes a minute to get there. And it doesn't seem to blow as cold as other cars I get into. Also, it's kind of noisy now. It sounds like a power steering pump that's a little low on fluid. Not bad, but it just seems noisier than when the original compressor was running.

    Should I take it back and have them see if they can make it colder and quieter or is that just what happens when you change the compressor?
  • kimexpokimexpo Member Posts: 17
    Plan to replace the serpentine belt for my 95 LS400.
    Please help me to:
    -locate the belt: at Lexus dealer, auto part stores..
    -are belt quality all the same ?
    - how to remove the old belt and to install?
    All advices are appreciated.
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    Yes, Freon tries to get out and water tries to get in. The rate of diffusion depends on concentration of each compound but it also depends on the permeability of the barrier. Freon molecules are significantly larger than water molecules, thus, not be able cross the barrier. Different hoses have different constants for different compounds.
    You'll be surprise at how much water entered a system that was thought to be completely sealed. Former McDonald Douglas studies on the absorption of water in sealed aircraft hydraulic systems indicated that up to 15%(w/w) of water entered the system in 5 years of operation, much of which through rubber hoses.

    Viola, Q45man made a good and correct suggestion as to the replacement of dryer and other items as part of periodic AC maintenance. It is up to each individual person to decide when, where and how to do it.

    None of the theories I discussed were mine. There were all discovered by well known scientists in their respected fields and had yet been proven wrong. If you applied the laws correctly in the case of the the balloon or any other systems, the observed results would be as predicted.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Sea level to 35,000 feet in very few minutes, fly there for hours at sub-freezing temperatures exceeding -50F and virtually no atmospheric pressure, then descent back to sea level in even fewer minutes, Gee, condensation EVERYWHERE.

    Hydraulic systems typically run at 3000 PSI and above, with zero atmospheric pressure on the outside of those hoses you bet that after a few hours the fluid will have permeated into the hose. And now as the aircraft descents and atmospheric pressure builds and "pushes" that permeation level back while condensation is rapidly forming everywhere.

    15% moisture contamination might even be conservative.

    My car goes FAST, but it never flies!
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    The major difference is that nowhere in your home do you have an ac system with rubber hoses. All home systems are all metal pipe soldered together.

    Why do you have all the ac components on a car bolted together with rubber o rings as the seal [ease of asembly] and repair and hoses are for vibration control as the motor mounted compressor rotates as the engine moves....3-4" under torque!

    For 30 years evaporator leaks have been traced to moisture reacting with R12 and the lube oil to make acids which eat the aluminum. R12 is a very big molecule. R134a is much smaller so the rubber hoses are better and do not allow as much water in but it still gets in.

    All you have to do is cut open the [$75]reciever/dryer and look at the dessicant. It is clumped and worthless after absorbing its limit.

    In sealed system the evaporators can last 20-30 years, in cars with out maintenance they are lucky to last 8-10-12 years.

    Just trying to inform members of things few AC shops will tell you about, as changing an evaporator is $175-200 max vs an evaporator my be $1000-$1200.

    Why are there so many AC repair shops [just like a great number of tranny repair shops]. If owners practiced rigorous preventative maintenance half would go out of business.

    Most of our Lexus work involves compressor o ring leaks, bad compressors from running low Freon levels, and evaporator leaks from moisture.

    I don't offer PM advice to our 4,000 clients [Infiniti and Lexus] because it would cost the business too much in the long run and every time I do I get accused of pushing unnecessary work! The wait till it breaks mentality.

    There are dozens of little tricks which can double the car AC life but they must be done before damage occurs...which means before 60k while its still in warranty!

    We have customers who drive a lot [Atlanta] many 90-91 LS400 have over 250,000 miles and a handfull over 300,000....we have 94Q with 255,000 miles and a 90Q with over 400,000.

    My personal 90Q has 239,000 miles and the origional 13 year old evaporator and the compressor was changed [retired in July] for a slight noise [most would have ignored but I had a freebie available from a rebuilt then rearended wreck I bought [all new everything including a tranny and thousands of other new items for $1200].

    If you have ever worked in a factory or on a ship or driven a semitruck you quickly learn that 3-4% annual mainteance is required if you want something to last 10-15 years and if it cost $50k you better spend at least $1500 per year.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    One of my responsibilities was authoring maintenance procedures for numerically controlled machine tools.

    Evaporator demise.

    Every day it's used it gets coated with god only knows what, everything that mother nature might throw into the incoming atmosphere, thoroughly coated with moisture, and the highly acidic effluent (that's what causes the horrid odor you oftentimes get from the A/C vents) of all of those millions of microbes breeding vigorously, and yet it fails from the inside out.

    RIGHT!
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    The point I was making about maintenance is don't assume that the recommended schedule [created by dealer council and factory] is designed to be the ultimate since the dealer has no vested interest in having the LS400 last. Sure they make a little on sales [more on used sales] but parts/repair labor have a 50% margin.

    If the fluid exchanges were adequate [in completeness and frequency] you wouldn't have all the powersteering pump and radiator/filler res problems, ac problems.

    No dealer shop could stay in business on just the 7.5k, 30k, 60k....etc scheduled services and warranty work...oil changes, tire rotations, washes, even brakes are losers [except for the markup on pads/rotors]...they must struggle till the first units sold get out of warranty then the extra replacement revenue starts to kick in.

    From the dealer owners point of view he has been subsidizing those techs for years and now the service department owes the business 3 million dollars.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    All of these single marque Lexus dealer's service bays are having financial troubles but expect to get bailed out in the long term due to "programmed" failures in the product line.

    I think it's going to be a much longer wait than those dealers expected.
  • ltsengltseng Member Posts: 9
    My 1992 ls400's ac stop working, I checked the unit, 1. AC didn't kick-in when I turned the AC on. 2. AC/Heater fuse is ok. What kind of problem can be? please advise before I take it to repair. Thanks.
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    Is the interior fan operating ? With the car running , push the auto button and set the temp to the lowest setting , lift the hood and check to see if the compressor clutch is turning with the pulley ( front left "driver's" side of the engine ). If the clutch is not turning , You may be low on freon ( R12 ), and the low pressure switch has disabled the system. If it is turning , remove the right headlight and check for bubbles ( froth )in the receiver sight glass , another indication of a low freon charge.
  • ltsengltseng Member Posts: 9
    Thank you, Paul. I did the testing, the interior fan is operating in high speed with hot air when I push the auto button and set the temp to the lowest. The compressor clutch is not turning with pulley, and fuse is ok.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    An open OAT sensor, behind the front bumper and in ront of the radiator, will indicate that the OAT is below freezing and the ECU will never engage the compressor clutch. Low (too low) refrigerant pressure will have the same effect.
  • ltsengltseng Member Posts: 9
    1. My 92 LS400 CD changer w/ nakamichi audio system went bad last month, it keeps showing error as it try to play the track when switching CD on, switching disc (it did switch CD), or switching track. What's wrong with it?
    2. Power antana's mask won't raise up, but I can hear the motor is running, where I can buy just mask and how do I replace it?
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    An open circuit in the ambiant temp sensor would have set a code in the A/C ECU ( code 12) and the A/C button light would flash . Itseng has not indicated any abnormal condition on his A/C panel to this point ie flashing lights. The next step is either check the pressure switch which is under the right headlight for continuity on terminals 1 znd 4 If no continuity then pressure is too low , or better yet get someone with a set of guages to check the static system pressure. Probably will need R12. as the car is 10 years old.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I can open the circuit to the OAT on my 92 and all it will do is not run the A/C and "think" the OAT is sub-zero.
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    you can enter the diagnostic mode by : ignition off , press and hold the AUTO and REC buttons together , now turn the ignition on . You will first get an indicator light check , lights will flash 4 times , after this you will be in diagnostic and codes if any will be shown in the temp display . Push OFF to get out of the check mode .
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    was that, absent going into the diagnostic mode, there is no "failure" indication of the OAT being open except improper operation. Have my own set of 92 shop manuals.
  • ltsengltseng Member Posts: 9
    Thank you, Paul&Wwest. It was low on freon. After charging R12, it runs fine now. I did replace compressor in '97 at 50K.
  • pscmjpscmj Member Posts: 7
    I have a 1994 Anniversay Edition LS400 with ~85K miles. It is a good car except for an annoying hesitation problem I have had for well over a year now. Multiple trips to the local dealer have resulted in about $700 spent on new spark plug wires and a new EGR valve with no help at all for the hesitation. I might also add that I first started noticing the problem after the 60K maintenance which I also had the local dealer perform. I've only had the car about 18 months, so I'm not sure if the problem existed before this maintenance was performed ... I was still "new" to the car at the time. Anyway, the hesitation occurs (or is most noticable) when I am SLOWLY accelerating from a start (for example pulling away from a stop light in heavy traffic), and also when I am just trying to maintain speed while going up a slight incline at between 45-50 mph. A soon as I apply just a slight bit more pressure to the accelerator pedal, the hesitation is felt until I gain enough speed and let of the gas, or apply more gas. The sensation is similar to a "fishbite" action (as the Lexus service folks like to describe it), or to a car needing a valve job or fuel injector cleaning. It's not a true "miss", but there's no smooth flow of power. My local Lexus dealer contacted Lexus who indicated that they knew about this problem on the '94 LS400, but that there was no known "fix". This is very hard for me to accept, especially after all the wonderful press I have heard and read about on this engine with regard to smoothness.

    Has anyone experienced this problem before, and is there a fix? I am so frustratd at this point I am ready to sell the car. Oh, by the way, I now have the instrument panel not coming on first thing in the morning. Another Lexus design problem I'll have to deal with to the tune of about $1,000. Needless to say, I am not a big Lexus fan right now.

    Anyway, thanks for your help (and letting me vent).
  • paradox_159paradox_159 Member Posts: 1
    Hey pscmj... over on clublexus.com, there's a posting that's corollary to the issue you're describing. Is there a check engine code 41 associated with this? It could be your TPS that's the culprit in this scenario. http://clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=60411

    The aforementioned url may be of some assistance to you. Good luck!
  • blackoutblackout Member Posts: 9
    did you think of the fuel filter??
    did you also replace the cables(spark plug)?
  • pscmjpscmj Member Posts: 7
    Thanks to the tip from paradox_159 and Lvangundy at clublexus.com my hesitation problem is gone!!! WHAT A RELIEF!!! I ordered the new TPS from irontoad.com at a total cost (including shipping) of ~$83.00. I installed it myself, and adjusted it according to the procedure referenced in MSG#448 (although the E2 terminal is actually the bottom terminal and the IDL terminal is the one just ABOVE it when the TPS is installed ... also the measurement should be 0.4mm vs 0.04mm ... the 0.0157inches is correct).

    We took the car on a trip from North Carolina to Atlanta, GA the day after I installed it (total round trip of ~650 miles). The car never hesitated during the entire trip (including about 1/2 hour of stop and go on the interstate due to construction), and the annoying problem I was having when I would slightly let off the gas and the RPMs would drop as if I had totally let off the gas is also gone. I was also blown away by the gas mileage. We averaged about 27 mpg!!! I had never come close to that before. This is mainly an around town car, and the best I had ever gotten was 20mpg, with the average being about 17mpg. Needless to say I was very pleased with the car during the entire trip.

    Thanks again to paradox_159, Lvangundy at clublexus.com, and roddmod11 for the adjustment procedure.
  • tombjrtombjr Member Posts: 4
    I have a 99 LS400. Great condition. 49000 miles. Certified until 100K. Any recommendations on top notch independent mechanics in the Portsmouth NH area? Closest Lexus dealer is 50 miles. Do have a local Toyota dealer but have never tried. Any thoughts on what the Toyota repair people are capable of on the Lexus? Thanks
  • cterrescterres Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1995 LS400 with the Nakamichi stereo system. The right audio channel is cutting in and out from time to time when the stereo is in use. This happens on AM/FM, Cassette, or CD. Is the head unit going bad? Has anyone else had this problem?
  • rd8ard8a Member Posts: 11
    Took the car to the dealer and requested power steering fluid replacement and filter cleaning and...they wouldn't do it! The rep said it wasn't necessary. When I told him the LS400 had a history of power steering pump failure he said that was the case for models of previous generations of the car, not mine (96). Is this true? Why wouldn't they want to do it?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Probably because it would be misleading to have you think changing the PS fluid would extend the life of the pump, especially if it happened to fail the following week.

    You could detect that the pump is in the process of failing, maybe, by testing the fluid if you wish.
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