Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Acura Integra
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Thanks ahead of time.
if this is how the Acura Integra is going to look I would rather buy an AMERICAN car.... I really thought they could do better then this... like an nsx look or something but this is really, really bad. When you guys get a chance look go to the web site I posted and let me see what you guys think.
we should go on strike against honda/acura.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Instead of 3750 service intervals (a pain to remember) I've decided to use every 5K mile intervals; what's your advice?
Can this be overcome?
Is it inevitable?
Who makes the best kit for the money?
Thanks
On my Integra GSR I started using Mobil 1 very recently (16K mi).
Although I do go fast with the Civic and average 80-85mph I didn't think it was necessary to go with synthetic. Besides 85mph is really nothing for the Civic.. Now the GSR is a different story. With that 8K RPM redline and frequent racing (autocross, and at the light) that I do, I feel the engine might benefit from the extra protection of the synthetic oil.
My advice would be don't go with synthetic. I 'm really hard on my Civic and have a lead foot so I 'm proof that the Civic doesn't really need synthetic oil to maintain reliability. Maybe synthetic might protect it more when the car has 150 or 200k mi.? can't really answer that. When I get there on mineral oil I 'll let you know the status of my motor. So far at 100k+ mi. oil consumption is nil which means the motor is fat and happy (healthy) and regular oil is more than adequate.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Register to get an ID and then post to your heart's content. You should go to the Forced Induction topic. I hang out at the Integra forum there. My nickname is VTEConly. There are very highly technical people that can answer all your questions there. As you can tell the Edmunds forums are a little more mild and don't go into the bolts and nuts of things. I 'm mostly at the honda-tech forums but I like it here because it 's more quiet It gets kind of crazy there reading everyone's problems and there are way more posts there than here. Anyway I 'm sure you 'll find it very informative.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
New model year Integras never came out in September anyway. They always arrived at the dealers' lots in mid-late October. I 'd get a new saleman if I were you.. and don't believe everything they tell you. They 're going to hold on to your money for a long long time because Type-Rs are definitely not coming out till the Spring of next year. It's already been announced at several auto shows.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
For those of you who are saying, "Why aren't you getting a GS-R"...well, you're right. However, I don't care for leather, the spoiler, and the lower gear ratios (I make several road trips). I wish I could get an LS with the VTEC motor. Hence, my dream car: an "LS-R".
Suggestions for the buying process: Go late at night or 1/2 hr. before they close. Tell them you 're ready to buy the car today, IF they meet or match prices you 've seen on line. Check out Edmunds' Rebates & Incentives section first! if there is a thousand or 1,500 incentive subtract that from the sticker price right away and then at least another $1K after that. Also walk around their lot. See how many LSs they have. If they only have 1 LS or only a couple of Integras total they may not negotiate much. The more they have the better chance you have at getting it at your price. Always let the dealer make a few hundred bucks. Do not make unreasonable offers like below dealer invoice (minus the factory-dealer incentive of course) or right at invoice. Acura dealers are not Chevy dealers.. Anway, pump them up, get them excited and tell them you 're willing to put a deposit down the same day and buy the car the next day or the day after. Another thing to remember is that the lower the price they agree on, the higher the interest rate they 'll try and give you. Tell them if you don't get a reasonable interest rate or the advertised one (sometimes they give out special Honda loan rates like 6.9% of lower) the deal will fall through or you 'll get a loan over the Internet with much better rates. When they heard that I was getting a loan from the Internet, they gave in and said, fine you can have the 6.9%. That's what Acura was advertising but they dealerhip doesn't want to give you that. They make money on the interest and try and give you the highest rate possible, unless you complain and simply say: no thanks, I 'll finance through someone else. Then watch them come up with excuses and other ways to get you a better rate. They have several financial institutions they do business with. One of them is offering the "good" or advertised rate. They 'll tell you your credit is not perfect and all kinds of crap. Just walk away. They 'll call back.. That's it for now. Do these things and you 'll do ok. Just get used to saying: no thanks to the dealers and you 'll get what you want, eventually. If not there 's always the online car brokers.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Just for reference sake, I have a deal on the table for a 2 door automatic on the table with a dealer I found through autoweb.com. He offered me $17,203 + tax, tag, and dealer service fee (not sure about this??) for a grand total of $18,763. If anyone has any thoughts on this deal please let me know... good or bad. I'm about ready to take it. BTW I'm in central Florida just for the record.
Joel
Don't know about the dealer service fee and have never heard of it. It's just another way of them to charge you more. The dealer service fee is most likely autoweb.com's fee that the dealer will send to them, like an agent's fee.
When I was making the deal with carsdirect.com they told me the dealer is charging me a $200 advertising fee. I said what? there 's no such thing and advertising fees are included in the sticker price of the car. I said NO, I 'm not buying the car because that's a ripoff. Then I called the sales manager, and told him I 've bought several new cars and noone ever charges an advertising fee. He said that's because this carsdirect profit! So I called them back and started yelling at them telling them I know that's their profit and they can go to the dealer and try and get $200 out of them. So about 2 days go by, and carsdirect called me back and told me many people have been complaining about the "advertising fee" (because dealers were not too cooperative and told the customers that the $200 was going to carsdirect - dealers don't really like the Internet car agents because it cuts into their profits a little), so they 've done away with it, and to say "we are sorry" they took off another $100 off the price. I was happy.
Fight the dealer service fee because there 's no such thing - don't pay it. Tell them you 've talked to others that have bought new cars and have never heard of that. It could also be the dealer fee they charge for registering the car for you and doing the paperwork. Here in NY it's usually $20. I had them waive it. It was called "dealer preparation fee". I told them they made $600 on the car, and that's enough. They don't need to get another $20 out of me and the sales manager said fine. Screw their fees! Go over them carefully and question everything. You still got a great deal though..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
jwgators - I would seriously consider what only1harry is suggesting for your transmission choice. Once you learn how to drive a stick, you will never want to go back to an automatic. If you're stuck on an auto tranny, I would suggest getting a vehicle with a V6 (Accord Coupe?) or Turbo (VW?). I have recently converted my roomate, an owner of a 4.3L Chevy S-10 Blazer w/Auto, after teaching him to drive my '84 Accord 5spd with only 86 hp! Good luck with your choice.
How am I supposed to know what a "typical amount" is? Anyone have any ideas? I want to take advantage of the good deal, but I don't want to walk into the dealership not knowing what to expect.
Thanks,
Kevin
Send an e-mail to Edmunds. They would be the best ones to answer this question since they wrote it.. I 've e-mailed them a couple of times and got a response within 48hrs.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I can’t remember which issue of “Car&Driver” I saw it in but they had a picture of a possible 2001 Integra and it looked much better then the one you showed me. It kinda looked like a mixed between the NSX and the Integra (Which I think is a much better way to go). The one you showed me, which looked more like a mix between the Prelude and I don’t know what else certainly not an Integra (is not the way to go). Right now I’m just going to wait and see and I know what you mean about them not giving me my money back in a quick fashion if I decide not to buy. And by the time they do give it back to me they have already made it up in interest anyways, hee hee! Them dealer guys know too much but then again if I have to sue them for 10 times the amount I put down then I’ll do so. Like that instead of buying an Integra I’ll buy a brand new 2001 four wheel drive BMW M3 cash!!!!!!!!!!! HEE HEE :-)
Where is Springfield Acura? Is that near Berkeley Heights? The reason I 'm asking is because that's where I work and there is a Springfield Avenue that I know goes through several towns.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I love his car. An ITR is good enough stock, but with modified suspension and race tires, it's just amazing. You can't miss it. We 'll be using one of the parking lots there. Look for red cones and the cars. All the other parking lots will be empty so it's easy to find us. I can give you the lot # if you 're interested, once I look it up at the web site.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Another friend of mine has a black '98 base Prelude and races at Limerock, CT every summer. That's a touch road course! Definitely the 2nd best choice after the Type-R. Have you read last year's R&T October (or Nov.) issue? They tested 7 sports coupes (& hatchbacks). The base Prelude came in 1st overall, Eclipse was 2nd, Celica GT-S 3d, Integra GSR 4th, VW VR6 5th, and Imperza 2.5 & Cougar 6th & last. Very good comparison test.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I do disagree with your other statment though.. The Type-R is a true sports car. It has awesome handling and great braking capabilities. The Civic platform is not a bad one at all. The Type-R's is just more reinforced and rigid due to some strategically welded steel plates on the subframe, larger suspension bushings, stiffer springs & shocks with larger antiroll bars supplimented by Limited Slip differential and big brakes. 6.2sec 0-60 and 14.8 in the 1/4 also classify it as a sports car. I 've spent $1300 on suspension upgrades on my '99 GSR and it's still no Type-R. At autocross racing yesterday I drove my brother's Type-R and it was just a much more balanced car, more neutral, and did everything faster: corner, accelerate and brake. No wonder I haven't been able to match his times yet. Now I 'm going with more aggressive suspension stuff & brakes and start selling what I got
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
About my 1987 Integra, I watched it turn over 280,000 on the way to work this morning. I'm putting about 450 miles a week on it as my weekly commute is about 210 miles from home. I have no hesitation about going any where any time with it and don't wonder if it will be dependable. Every time I think about trading it in I talk myself out of it by saying it's paid for, and costs very little to operate. On average, about $600 per year goes into maintenance now, which includes preventive maintenance. That's way less than car payments.
I bought it new. It's a LS 4 door hatch with 5 speed. I bought a 4 door 'cause I wanted something I could grow into if I got married and eventually had kids (and now do). Plus, I hate 2 door cars, the seat belts are too hard to reach. I wanted a hatchback so I could haul stuff around, since I only had one car. It was and is the ideal car for me, an excellent compromise between a fun car and a practical car.
As for your questions, it still has the original gear box. I'm on my 2nd clutch, replaced I think at about 120k, back in the days when I used to drive hard and fast. I take it a bit easier now adays, still fast but a bit easier on the starts.
As for major maintenance, so far I have replaced clutch at 120k, 2 inner cv joints at about 230k, water pump twice as part of recommended pm (can you say interference engine?), alternator at about 200k, fuel injectors at 250k, a brake diverter valve, and maybe a few other miscellaneous items you might expect like brake rotors, other pm type things like plug wires, and then the wear items like brake pads, tires, etc.
Brian
PS. I recommend the 5-sp. Faster and more fun to drive plus it will save you $700-800 and you 'll have a lot less problems with the tranny down the road.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Thanks,
Kevin
As you can see, Acura leads everyone.
Results of J.D. Power's Initial Quality Study. Problems reported per 100 vehicles.
I 'm a little surprised to see VW way down there with Huyndai and the like. Makes you feel good you own an Acura doesn't it? Honda is #7, not bad looking at the names that are ahead of it..
Acura 91
Lexus 103
Infiniti 107
BMW 118
Toyota 118
Porsche 122
Honda 126
Buick 130
Mercedes-Benz 134
Jaguar 137
Plymouth 137
Saab 138
Lincoln 139
Audi 141
Mercury 143
Cadillac 146
Volvo 150
Chrysler 151
Mazda 153
Nissan 153
Industry Average 154
Oldsmobile 162
Ford 162
Saturn 164
Mitsubishi 166
Pontiac 167
Chevrolet 168
Dodge 174
GNC 175
Jeep 188
Land Rover 192
Isuzu 193
Subaru 199
VW 200
Hyundai 203
Daewoo 211
Suzuki 224
Kia 251
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
What's kind of bad about this though, is that if your car is locked and lets you go back to get something out of your trunk, when you unlock the hatch door, all your doors are now open. If you happened to forget to lock the hatch door when you 're done, your regular doors are left unlocked too.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I also do the same with my '97 Civic that doesn't have power door locks but a big plastic lock lever on the inside. I think I use my middle finger to push that in towards the door (because it's further away) while my other fingers keep the inside door handle open I 'm not 100% though because I do it unconciously and don't think about it I too used to either hold the outside door handle open and reach in to lock the door or use the key, until my brother told me how to do it while still in the car (he owned a '95 LS at the time and now a Type-R). This was after I had the car for at least 6mos and he saw me use the key.. The Integra I figured out by myself
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Much much easier than on other makes where you have to do the awkward hold the handle up while closing the door.
Thanks!!!
front windshield (is this how the front
glass is called in english ?) broken today ...
i have a comprehensive with a $500 deductible ...
any ideas where i can get a cheap one online
and any estimates on how much the whole
thing, including work might cost ?!
thanks,
sion@cs.purdue.edu
Thanks
neld103@aol.com