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93-95 Ford Probe

2

Comments

  • bebob.... I owned a 94' PGT and also really loved the car. I miss the torque that engine provided. Regarding the bad distributor. I had the same thing happen to me. The car was out of warranty (45,000 miles, as I recall) and the dealer replaced it free of charge. They said it was covered under the emmisions control system warranty which is more miles and years than the standard warranty. I don't remember the details. You might want to check into that. That was the only problem I had with the car before selling it with 60,000+ miles.
  • bebobbebob Posts: 1
    Thanks for the info about your distributor. Unfortunately, the federal emissions warrenty is for 5 yr./50,000 mi. (I've had the car 5 1/2 years). I called two Ford dealers and they both said that the distributor was NOT part of the emissions system. The warrenty book says it is. Oh well, it's a moot point now...
  • And it was hell!

    I think I had the one that was making the circuit around the car shows at the end of 92. As soon as I got it I noticed bad build quality. Ran fine for a while but had many warranty claims. Leaks, the exhaust system fell off, power seats never worked right, etc. As soon as the warranty wore off the real expensive parts started to fail, O2 sensor, idle sensor, brake calipers rusted out (not the disks, the calipers, >300 dollars each). Noticed more looming problems and decided to trade it in. If you want a zippy little hatchback, buy an Acura Integra. Not quite the low end grunt but much better engineering / build quality.
  • jay88jay88 Posts: 1
    I need help finding listings for '93 ford probe v6 2.5 liter engines. If anyone can help, please e-mail me at Blaze122180@aol.com, or please post info in Town Hall. Thank You
  • Hello,
    I used to own a 95 Probe GT, till I wrecked it in 1997. I kept many of the parts in hopes of buying a new one, but the 97 models were stripped down (no power antenna, lighted visor vanity mirrors, door side moldings, etc.)

    I have the original probe floor mats in grey (with the "Probe" embroidered o n them), K&N airfilter (about 300 miles on it, basicaly new),
    and the instrument cluster, (showing about 40K miles I think)

    I'll take the best offer for these parts if intertested.

    angefran@isu.edu

    Frank
  • How much do you think I can get for a red, black interior '95 Probe, A/C, CD player, power steering, a/l brakes, 26000 miles. Inside is clean, there's a small dent in back bumper, small dent in left rear fender, and the driver side door was backed into. That is fixed, you can't even tell it was hit unless you look at an angle or you know it's there. I paid 7800 for it, and it is still in same condition, Plus I added cd player. I'm hoping for atleast 7500. Thanks for any replies.
  • angiewangiew Posts: 2
    We just bought a 89 Probe for my daughter. It has 129,000 miles on it with 61,000 on the engine. Has anyone had these cars farther than this mileage?
  • kells70kells70 Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Probe GT loaded with 47,000 miles on it. It's breaking my heart, but with 2 kids I have to get rid of it. The car is in perfect condition and runs like a dream. What would be a good asking price for this car?
  • angiewangiew Posts: 2
    Has anyone been able to get rid of the vibration on the Probes when at a stop?
  • chas45chas45 Posts: 1
    I have a ’93 probe GT with about 130,000 miles. It has been average in repair quality. Much better than a VW I had, but not as good as the Toyota and Honda. Let’s see if I can remember what I have done to it (I’m going from memory here):

    10K: Had ford rebuild the cylinder head under a hidden warranty.
    15K: Driver’s door inner panel did not stay snapped down. Complained to dealer and they did not fix it. Eventually this caught on the carpet and tore the bottom half of the panel off. Ford did not want to have anything to do with fixing this, and a new panel costs $400. I used small sheet metal screws and duct tape to put it back together and keep it from coming un-snapped.
    80K Clutch started to go out, and completely failed at 100K. Not unusual for my driving.
    Changed the timing belt at 80K (20K after it was required). Belt still seemed to be in good operating condition. This was expensive
    80K Changed the valve cover gasket – like everyone else, it was leaking and ruined the spark plug wires. This was very expensive.
    100K Changed the CV joints because the boots had worn out, and it is just as easy to replace the whole assembly.
    90K. A/C clutch failed. I was told it would cost $2000 to repair the system (several things were leaking), so I still don’t have A/C.
    120K: new water pump – original one was leaking.
    120K: oil pressure gauge reads low. Compression checks out OK, but it burns about one quart per 700-900 miles. Hmm, someone said these cars could last 200,000 miles, but with oil changes every 3-4000 miles my car won’t last that long.
    80K Exaust pieces began wearing out. When the pipe between cat and muffler wears out, the cat will drag on the ground and the car will be undrivable (unless you want to destroy the cat).
    Right tail light fills with water. A ford Lighting engineer told me this is a common problem with Probes.


    Other: Rewired the fog lights to allow them to turn on when I wanted them to, not when engineers wanted them to. Put Redline synthetic fluid in the transmission (shifts a bit smoother and adds lots of protection). Changed struts to Tokiko illumina 5-way adjustables at 30K. Much much better than stock. Car rides smoother and bottoms out less.

    Rear brakes: When I had the rear brake pads replaced as 70K, the shop told me that both rear calipers had rusted and frozen, and I needed two by new ones (big bucks). The car drove fine, and I had a hard time believing this. Reading the Factory repair manual, I found that Ford hid the piston retracting screw under a fake bolt head. I saved $600 by telling the shop how to do my brake job. If a shop tells you the rear calipers are frozen, they may not know how to find this screw.

    All in all, it hasn’t been a bad car. My biggest problem with the car is the A/C, and the fact that it costs at least $400 to have anything done under the hood. That big 4 cam engine is shoe horned in there, and you have to take a lot of stuff apart to reach whatever is wrong.
  • harbachjharbachj Posts: 51
    The clear coat on my wife's 94 PGT is failing in a number of spots. Color is teal mist, but I don't think that matters with the clear coat. I noted a number of posts that indicated similar paint problems. Has anyone with a similar problem gone to Ford and gotten some satisfaction? Overall this has been a good car and I would like to keep it a few more years, but I can't justify paying for a new paint job.
  • corradomcorradom Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Probe SE with 34K miles and the trans went out! I am not the original owner and my mechanic said perhaps the odometer was rolled back. Anyone else ever heard of a trans going out on 34K? What is the deal with Overdrive- should it be OFF at all times unless driving on highway? Could I have been the culprit?
  • gcb922gcb922 Posts: 1
    I have a '95 Probe GT (purchased new), '89 Jeep Wrangler, '91 Range Rover, and a '97 F-150. And I the Probe is by far my favorite. I had a bad (leaking) steering rack that was replaced under warranty, oxygen sensors (warranty), and bad fog light enclosure that was also replaced under warranty. Other than that, I havn't had any problems at all.

    Everything else that has required the Probe to be in the shop for has been standard maintenance (cv boot was replaced)

    I couldn't imagine having purchased a better performing car for the money. I highly recommend getting one.

    The '95's are probably the best year as there are some issues with the '93-94 that got worked out (rear brake calipers freeze and buggy distributors) and they don't have all the extra emissions stuff that the '96-97 have making them a bit harder to work on (if you enjoy taking car of your car)
  • Concerning the creaking, bending noise coming from the rear. Check the hatch. The hatch tends to creak with body flex. The fix is relatively expensive for what it is, as with all things concerning this car, but probably cheaper than the steering rack. Should be ~$100.
  • mbleznykmbleznyk Posts: 1
    I'm trying to price out my 90 gt, its fully loaded with the 4 cyl turbo, minus a sunroof. in acar pricing guide over the net, it has a "prefered equipment package" listed on the option list, which makes it worth $2800 more?!

    How do i know i have this?

    My gt is black/turbo,rear wiper,service board, power windows, locks ,brakes, automatic, etc.

    please help, need to know how much to sell it for, it is in mint showroom condition. Body and interior are perfect, let me know!!!
  • mznmzn Posts: 727
    mbleznyk, have you visited our Used Cars area? You can use the information there to help price your car. Our information goes back to 1990.

    Bear in mind however, that there are regional variations to price. Take a look at your local paper and see what cars like yours are selling for in your area. And please, let us know how things go for you.

    carlady/host
  • lanir304lanir304 Posts: 1
    I'm looking to by a '93 Probe.
    From what I know they have not had any any problems at all with the car and don't really want to sell it but they just don't need it anymore.
    Was wondering if anyone would recommend buying it or if they would not recommend it.
    Thanks
  • jnowskijnowski Posts: 96
    I bought a new 93 Probe GT, loaded, in June of '92. I sold it in October of '99 with 127,000 mi. on it to a friend of mine. Other than regular maintenance, I replaced the spark plug wiring at about 36,000 Mi. The brakes were done, finally, at 110,000 mi. and my friend has replaced the water pump at 127,000 mi. The car was a joy to drive and own for me, and my friend loves it. Hope this helps you.
  • hyskyphyskyp Posts: 2
    Just thought I'd share my '93 PGT experience.
    Bought it used from a dealer in 02/99 with 42K
    miles, my odometer now reads 56K.

    2 weeks after I bought it the engine started
    shutting off under hard acceleration and sometimes
    even when cruising. I searched the net and found
    the distributor to be the likely cause. Dealer
    replaced free of charge. This solved the problem.

    What is beginning to concern me now is an ever
    louder knocking sound from the engine - I'm
    guessing it's carbon buildup on the VALVES (???) -
    has anyone had this and if so, is there some
    inexpensive fix like a fuel additive or something?

    I HAVE NOT HAD the other problems that I read
    about in this conf - like the Spark plug wires or
    Rear calipers.

    I love the car. I call it Proberarri for its
    stunning looks (in spite of the fading paint),
    great handling and very decent performance.

    Check out http://pupak.webjump.com for some
    pictures and racing/autocrossing stories.
  • ecidemonecidemon Posts: 1
    If you have carbon buildup on a car that Red-Lines at 7,000 RPM and you drive it like a "proberarri" then You have some problems.
    Did you ever think of checking the oil??
  • hyskyphyskyp Posts: 2
    Oil level was the first things I checked, it's near the max line. I change it every 4k miles. The oil pressure gauge reads a bit low, though. It's always in the NORMAL range but doesn't go up more than about 1/4 way. Don't know whether that's normal or not.

    I poured a bottle of SLICK50 into the gastank and the knocking is almost gone now so it might have been some deposit after all.
  • trishastrishas Posts: 1
    We bought a '93 Ford Probe for my step-daughter just 4 months ago and I wished I had read this forum first. Her car died yesterday and I'm hearing from several people that it's probably the alternator. There was a brand new battery in the engine (it still had the pricetag on it). I'm wondering if the dealer replaced the battery before even checking to see if the problem was the alternator. I'm hesitant to call the dealer back because it's been 4 months and we didn't get any warranty on it because we were advised not to by the dealer.
    It wouldn't start or turnover for her at first, then after sitting for awhile, it would turn over, but not start. So we jumped it and let it idle for about 5 minutes and the engine just turned off. The battery gauge is reading as low as it can possibly go, but her interior lights and radio work. Any ideas?
  • jimboscjimbosc Posts: 8
    Which is most likely your alternator. Could be another component, but you need some type of test kit to find out - or take it to your local repair shop and have them do it.
  • jimboscjimbosc Posts: 8
    We have had our 95 probe gt 5 speed since it was new. It had several defects when new, including repainting the hood and some radiator hose leaks (lots of other minor stuff). After several visits to the dealer all was well.

    The car has been really reliable the last few years. It has about 48,000 miles and the engine is burning a little oil - some smoke at start-up and when you run the engine up to redline. Only adding one quart between oil changes (so a quart every 1,500 miles).

    The car is a blast to drive, although I wish it had a bit more torque. I will have to sell it soon to get a family car - probably a Subaru wagon. I really like the utility of the hatchback so a wagon is a logical replacement for a growing family.

    I really hate all our local Ford dealers. After owning 2 new Fords (93 Escort and 95 Probe) I will probably never buy another new car from them. They are just too hard to work with and very sloppy about the quality of service provided.

    Jim
  • mcdcmcdc Posts: 6
    Yes the ATX on the Probe is a trouble area. A lot of people that have them are putting synthetic ATX fluid in them and putting a heavy duty transmission oil cooler on. There is an oil cooler on them already but it is in the radiator, and doesn't cool very well. After you get it repaired keep up the maintenance on it, replace the fluid and filter about every 30K.

    For more info go to www.probetalk.com and do a search for atx problems, or something similar.
  • Can anyone tell me how to determine the market value of the car. I tried Keely's Blue book, but are there any other sources? The insurance company determined that the car waa a total loss and they are paying me very minimal amount of money for the value of the car. My car is 94 probe GT with 55990 miles and in excellent condition. No detn or ding anywhere. all stock. any help is greatly appreciated.
  • plasterplaster Posts: 1
    Hi

    I can buy '95 Ford Probe GT with 110,000 miles on it for $3,500. Is this a good price???

    Thanks
    Mark
  • Hey I need advice on if i should buy the 95PSE or not. It has 52777 miles and is selling for $5500. Is this a good price? Has anyone had good experience with this model? Thanks for your advice.
  • I have a silver 93' Probe with 91,000 on it. It is in good condition. It had a new rebuilt transmission put in 2 years ago. Other than that it has minor dings, but looks good!! No rust, or chipped paint. Does anyone know the best place to sell this online?
  • I found a '95 Probe with 39,500 miles on it. It's in great condition. It has a V-4 engine on it. The deal seems great but I'm just not sure how the engine would handle in the years to come. I would really appreciate any advice anyone can offer on whether I should go ahead with the deal. The owner is asking for $6,000.
    Thanks.
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