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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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  • numbutt1numbutt1 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 94 metro Im trying to time. I have looked in Haynes and Chiltons manual and cant find a picture of the (check switch) that is supposed to be shorted when timing? ( Sticker under hood)Can anybody shed some light on this??
  • m564agm564ag Member Posts: 15
    the pulg you are looking for is in the upper driver side of the eng compartment behind the strut tower it will have a rubber cap on it if you remove it from the fire wall and pull the cap off you will see 6 pin holes This is where you jump them at.
  • numbutt1numbutt1 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for that I finally found out yesterday that this was the plug I was looking for :confuse: but now the question if its 6 pin. Which pins do I jump across?????
  • skausskaus Member Posts: 11
    Can anyone help me here.
    I changed the water pump out in the cold today.
    Now I can not recall how to reinstall the timing belt and the tensioner. I have 1 liter book and it seems to be no help with 1.3 liter 4 cyl engine. Even new book does not have 1.3liter diagram

    Thanks
  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    A couple of questions about my '98 Metro (3 cylinder, 1 liter, 5 speed). I am going to replace the timing belt soon. I had posted about 6 months ago whether I should replace it now as it only as 45,000 original miles on it (bought it 2 years ago with only 28,000 on it). My mechanic inspects it every time I bring it in for an oil change and tire rotation and he keeps telling me the timing belt looks fine. It seems as if I read somewhere that when you have the timing belt changed out, that it is wise to also replace the water pump, since everything has to be torn down to replace the timing belt. Does that sound right and is there anything else I should consider replacing while he is in there? Also, when should I replace the O2 sensor. My question on the tires is this, I had 4 new Michelin tires put on (P155-80-13) when I bought the car at 28,000 (believe they are called Michelin Weatherwise). Although I am a diehard Michelin fan, I have never cared for the tread pattern of the tires and they are very small and close together, and it is easy for the car to hydroplane when a lot of rain has fallen. Does anyone have suggestions for another tire with a better/wider tread pattern? Thanks.
  • dangerdudedangerdude Member Posts: 15
    Dear fellow Metrophiles, I guess if I didn't love my Metro so much, I wouldn't get frustrated but .. doing upholstery work I discovered the forward portion of my rear wheel wells has just rusted through to the inside of the rear seat area. Of course I dug it all out and repaired it using space age pop rivits, rust converter, paint, galvenized metal and anything else I found in the basement! So apparently moisture get's between two layers of stamped sheet metal and rusts. Does anybody have experience with this condition. Does ANYBODY know the point of entry of the water? I can't figure it out. Everything looks OK to me (except the rust) The body looks tight and dry. Other Metros in the boneyard seemed to have the same issue in the same place (?) Thanks guys! DangerDude
  • rocksma34rocksma34 Member Posts: 1
    Is there any chance you would be willing to sell a headlight asseb. (L) for a 97 LSI? I need one fast and cheap Thanks
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    I'm sorry, not at this time.... the rolled over geo both assemblies were destroyed- the best source is ebay.
    :)
  • garthman63garthman63 Member Posts: 2
    Hello all I am a new member and a first time poster to this chat room.... I have a 1997 geo metro lsi 2d hatchback with a 4 cylnder engine 1.6L and the poor thing just gave out on me. I love this car and want to find an engine with low miles on it to replace the one that blew...... i got 173 thousand miles out of the last one and would like to do the same or better with the next one I have tried e bay and came up with no luck there.. Dose anyone have any ideas on where i could get one and about how much would it cost me to buy it....thanks every one and I am glad to see a rooom with so many other geo fans.... :shades: Garth
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Hi there Garthman, search the for sale section on this site:

    http://www.teamswift.net/

    Good luck.
  • garthman63garthman63 Member Posts: 2
    Dangerdude.... I have enjoyed reading your posts and I find i am a metrophile also...LOL....i would appreciate your advise on my delima....I have a 1997 geo metro lsi hatchback with a 1.6L engine auto tranny in it and the engine is givvin out and i need a replacement i was wondering if you knew any places where i could het a replacement with low miles for aa reasonable price....i would appreciate any advice you can offer .......Garth :D
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    What state do you live in ? There are many still on the road, and an equal amount in junkyard and re-cycle shops. I have a 1995, a 1996,1997 and a roll over for spare parts(1996) Calif and Canadian emmissions may play into a issue with engine swap outs- as the exhausts systems are different. Suzuki made Suzuki SWIFT which is identical vehicle also.
    Good luck
  • whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    You may already be done with this job, but in case you're not, the plug looks like: A B C
    D E F

    You jump D and E in order to set the timing. Be sure your warm idle speed is according to specs before you set the timing. I always have to dial mine down because I keep it a little higher to settle down the rough idle.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    Got a 114,000 mile mitubishi alternator OE from a 1993
    geo metro and it fit the 1994 fine. The bracket broke
    which caused all the 7 years of belt noise prem belt
    wear final death of the second. So check the bracket
    easily removed from under the car passenger side of car.
    The bolts that hold it were loose I suspect this is cronic
    with Geo maybe lock washers would help. I got alternator
    bench tested for free at pepboys. Just a note that 1 800-
    pepboys will tow to a pepboys and rebate the fee if they
    do the work they will in the OC take a used part and RR it
    for you.
  • dangerdudedangerdude Member Posts: 15
    Good morning Garth, Congratulations on your wise recognition of great, smart, cost effective transportation of the future (here now!) The Metro! On your engine question, I may be the wrong guy to ask. When an engine get's worn, I just love to do the overhaule myself. I get the cylinder head re-done by a shop usually, but on my corvair I did them myself (Corvair??) (Yes!) Metro only has (well mine anyway) 3 cylinders to re-ring and hone but I would do my own overhaul. That way you KNOW it's done correctly. I've heard about JDM engines (Japanese Domestic Market) or engine exchange buisnesses (Jasper) Google a few of these, see what looks OK to your wallet. Your a good man for recognizing the Metro as a "keeper" DangerDude.
  • c140flyerc140flyer Member Posts: 2
    Hi Folks,
    I recently bought a 1996 Geo Metro with 51,000 mi. One of the only problems I have with the car is with the window mechanisms. The drivers window "hops" as it moves in the track and the passenger window crank takes considerable force to move. I've heard that the window regulators are a weak point on these cars. They also seem to be hard to find. Does anyone have any suggestions?
    Thanks,
    Larry
  • dartswingerdartswinger Member Posts: 1
    I would like to know how to get the engine codes out of a 1994 geo metro xfi. I have an engine light that is on, need some help. I've plugged an obd i connector into this block socket underneath the instrument panel but no flashing codes.

    Also what should the compression be on the cylinders. When I bought the car they all were around 140 psi. The car runs good and gets good mileage just trying to sort through it.

    Sincerely,

    Brian L. Smith

    you can email me at dartswingerdart@yahoo.com. Feel free to leave your telephone number if you want and I can call you. I know my way around a lot of cars but metros are new to me.
  • smoke76smoke76 Member Posts: 9
    Have your owners manual? My geo has a slot in the fuse box that is raised about 1/8 inch higher than the rest, if you put a fuse in this hole it will start to flash your engine codes on the check engine light. My problem was the previous owner left the fuse in and it was giving me the code for ok\normal, I found the code in the owners manual. All I had to do was pull the fuse back out and my light went off. My driver is a 1990 but my 92 parts car looks like it has the same.

    Hope this helps.

    Smoke

    p.s. they dont like it when you put your email address in your posts, anyone could use it for anything now.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    Google Pick your Part in your area.

    The have geo to recycle. Your regulator needs grease. Get a
    plastic screw lever. Now take big screw driver and push back
    the plastic washer in back of door crank have a friend shine
    a light or a penlight in your mouth if you have no friends.
    Now look for a shiny clip with the plastic screw lever remove
    the clip with it's claw. Now use the plastic screw claw to
    remove the six push screws from door. Remove the door panel.
    Carefully remove plastic weather seal so you can reattach it later . Grease and wd 40 all gears you can see. Silicone
    glue the glass to channel in a few places if it is loose.
    That should do it.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    I think i am about to get a belt dressing stick to quite a
    new alternator belt I just istalled on a used geo 93 alternator and installed at pep boys the noise happens when
    it starts of the quiets after it is at 30 mph. Ideas?
  • yvexyvex Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Geo Metro LSi, 1.3 liter engine. I bought the car in a very good condition, however recently I've noticed that I'm getting about 18-20 MPG instead of advertised 35... I'm putting in 6 galons of gas and every 100-120 miles.

    The transmission fluid is kinda brownish even after 2 flushes.

    Sometimes the car seems to be very sluggish in acceleration, other times it goes very fast.

    I've changed the spark plugs to E3 and replaced the air filter with the K&N one. Could this be the cause?

    I would be very grateful if I receive some suggestions, as taking the car to the mechanic for a complete checkup would cost ridiculous amounts of money :(
  • stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    Hi Larry -

    I have a '92 convertible LSI and recently took mine to a bodyshop to have the regulators cleaned & lubed. Both worked much better after I had this done. Mine are now 15 years old, and I have the original regulators, so, at least those put in the '92 Metros, don't seem to be particularly weak.

    I watched the bodyshop owner do the work - if you decide to do it yourself, just use caution prying off the fabric covering.

    Best,

    Stan
  • numbutt1numbutt1 Member Posts: 5
    Like smoke sez easiest thing to do is check the manual or get a Haynes / Chiltons motor manual etc. I just went through this on my 94 and did the old jump across w/ a wire trick. It was simple and the chiltons explains the process clearly.
  • numbutt1numbutt1 Member Posts: 5
    I just replaced my 94 1.0L w/ the low miles Japanese import motor. My buddy did the same awhile back and we bolth experienced about a 5 mpg drop in millage. I used the my old intake and all but still not as good of millage as the old worn out motor I replaced?? Has anybody else experienced this?
  • econovertibleeconovertible Member Posts: 5
    I have the same problem! I have a 90? Geo Metro convertible. It will not start. I thought (and was told) that it was the fuel pump, but it works fine. Turns out the damn injector wont spray. The injector in getting voltage, but no pulsating ground. If I hook a wire to the injector and tap it against a ground it will spray gas and run. What would do this? The ECU? I can't find a crank sensor anywhere on it.
  • econovertibleeconovertible Member Posts: 5
    My Geo Metro convertible with the 1.0L 3cyl will not run without my help. The injector is not operating. The ignition throws a good spark, but the injector won't spray. When I connect a wire to it and give it an intermitent ground it will spray fuel and run, as long as I keep doing that... :( I looked for a crank sensor and it isn't there. What tells the injector to fire? I think its the ecu but it has to get a signal from somewhere. Please tell me anything you know about this, I don't know what else to do!
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    Hello. First - the engine from Japan are carburated engine.Second - how you are sure this engine is good and also from Japan?
    You paid close $ 450, where you could rebuild your engine for less than $ 400.00.
    Please check the EGR valve and also the exhaust EGR system in the cyl. head. Check also the compression. Good used engine should have around 175 - 190 psi. Check this on cold and hot engine and compare the numbers.
    Remember - disconect the fuse or relay from the electr. pump.
    Also push the accelarator paedal down to the floor whenn you will cranck the engine. YOu must have good battery and each time crank the engine 8 revolution - two times stroke.
    Check the compression and do not release the ccheck valve oin the gauge. Wait 2 or 3 minutes and check if the presssure is going down.
    Any questions, let me know pipesbac@aol.com
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    I have 3 Geo Metro's , a Suzuki Swift, all 2 door hatchbacks- all 4 are suffering from headliner failure- I assume the only way to fix this is to remove all the interior trim, and the light, then pull it down- My question is this: what do I use for an adhesive to re-install the cloth liner back (ontothe fiberboard) It surely must be able to withstand heat and frigid cold (Maine)
    Thanks !
    :confuse:
  • whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    First of all, does anyone know if the dashboard on my '93 Metro convertible is interchangeable with a dashboard on a two-or-four-door model? I need to replace it and it would be a lot easier to find one from a non-convertible.

    Secondly, my convertible's trunk struts just gave out day before yesterday. I might be able to get a couple of them from a convertible at the salvage yard but they would be 14 years old, as well. Has anyone had any experience replacing them? Were you able to purchase new ones?

    Thanks for the info.
  • stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    Hi Whitetop -

    I've got a '92 Metro convertible. I don't know about the dashboards - I'm pretty sure, though, that the instrument clusters are different, and this may affect the dashboard.

    Per the struts, they're still available through aftermarket dealers - I put in a new set last year. I got mine at Advance Auto Parts.

    Good luck!

    Stan
  • econovertibleeconovertible Member Posts: 5
    I have a Geo Metro convertible with the 1.0L 3cyl. It will not run without my help. The injector is not operating. The ignition throws a good spark, but the injector won't spray. When I connect a jumper wire to the yellow/black wire and give it an intermitent ground it will spray fuel and run, as long as I keep doing that... I looked for a crank sensor and it isn't there. What tells the injector to fire? I think its the ecu but it has to get a signal from somewhere. I also read that the distributor has something to do with it. Please tell me anything you know about this, I don't know what else to do!
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    Hi fellow GEOOO if you need a diagram for Geo Alternator,
    starter coil and spark plugs E mail me and I will send
    attachment arthur.lev123blue@gmail.com

    I yesterday installed a re manufactured 1994 Geo Metro type C
    alternator. Busted bracket started all the trouble. Junk
    yard alternator failed. Step by Step tips available free.
  • campgirl70campgirl70 Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me if it is possible to swap a 94 auto with a 95 stick. #2 cylinder is shot on my 94 and a friend will give me her rebuilt 95 if it will work without to much extra work or expensive parts.
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Well, you will need the half shafts from the manual because they are longer. You also have to reposition the tranny mount.
    I have done it, never looked back and get incredible milleage. It is a five-six hour job if you have both full engine bays in front of you and....a mechanic with all the tools. Don't fret about the wiring coming out of the auto tranny. You won't need most of it.

    The car will be more sprightly, as the manual tranny weighs much less. You will save on gas, tear and wear on the suspension, brakes and steering. Go for it.
  • tlong1tlong1 Member Posts: 1
    ok, first let me say that i am mechanically ignorant; but i will attempt to explain my current dilemma with my 94 "metch" --- the car was running smoothly yesterday. stopped at a friend's house, came back to it, turned the key, and nothing...

    the lights work, radio works---we tried jumping it, still no response. i now can't get it out of park. i don't even hear my starter click when i turn the key. it's like the motor seized up. HELP MEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!
  • stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    Sounds like it might be the starter solenoid. Do you get a click when you try to start the car? If you do, then it may be the starter motor. If you don't even get a click, it might well be the solonoid.

    Per getting it out of park - can't help you there - I've got a stick shift. Be sure, though, that it is in Park, because most automatics won't start unless the tranny is in Park or Neutral. Since you're having trouble with the shifter, make sure it's not stuck between Reverse & Park.

    Hope the above helps -

    Stan
  • stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    I wonder if anyone has tried to put an electric supercharger on a Metro 1.0L engine? I have a '92 LSI convertible. I'm considering a supercharger like the one posted on E-bay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Supercharger-Turbo-GEO-Metro-Tracker-Prizm-Storm- _W0QQitemZ110100042813QQihZ001QQcategoryZ33741QQcmdZViewItem), but I don't want to buy it unless someone else has had good luck with it.

    Any performance advantage?
    Effect on gas milage (including whether you have to switch to premium unleaded)?
    Any damage to the engine or powertrain?

    Thanks in advance for any feedback.

    If the above link doesn't work, Google "electric supercharger e-bay geo metro" - it should be the first entry.

    Best,

    Stan
  • deborahfdeborahf Member Posts: 15
    Hi Guys (and girls)
    Someone knocked the whole drivers side mirror out! It is a basic manual mirror (with the little stick inside the car to adjust). I just ordered one from a local store. (The collision shop was trying to stick it to me for one) Now...I need step by step instructions on how to install it. Can someone help?
    Thanks...Deborah.......
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    First Deborah, you should have shopped on Ebay....Silver polish on the black housing works wonders....Take off the small screw from the inside. The blach triangular paner is held in place by a small nipple. Pry this panel off using a flat flexible putty knife. Don't scratch the paint. Now you see three screws. Gently unscrew them. gently because they are screwed in plastic tubes and if you go fast, you will snap them off. Position the outside seal perfectly around its seating surface. have someone hold the mirror while you put back those screws. DO NOT FORCE THEM. Just tight is good enough. Reposition inside trim piece, push on the area of the nipple thing. Replace the small black screw. Adjust the mirror, finish the glass of Chardonnay. Toodle-dee-doo-cracker-bits!
  • deborahfdeborahf Member Posts: 15
    Morning Vanilla,
    Wow, you replied fast! Thank you. Pick up the mirror today. It is so cold here (upstate NY), I may wait to put it on tomorrow.(Warmer)At least try to anyway. Paid $36.00 for the mirror. Insurance would only give me 41.00. Shop wanted to charge $110.00. (Just for the part)My car is pretty beat-up, but it still runs!! I will write and let you know how I did. I love this Webpage.
    Thanks again..........ps...never tried e-bay.
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Holy gosh and what-a-ta-taw: $110 green ones? Surely they smoke something I never did. Tell you what Honey Bunny, next time you need something come here first! I swear on my Aunt Jemimas waffles that getting a little cooler as I write,this bunch of Geo fans , love to help out.
    P.S. Ebay is addictive.
  • econovertibleeconovertible Member Posts: 5
    Spring is coming and my metro is still dead. My other car is totalled. I need to get this great lil car back on the road! Everything is good except the TBI. It just wont spray any fuel. :( It isnt gettin the signal to spray. I hooked up a wire to the yellow-black wire goin to the injector(b/c the other wire was positively charged) and tapped it on the chasis. Low and behold the injector will blast a healthy spray of gas if I provide this intermitent ground. It will even start and run if I keep doin this. What do you think the problem is? ECU? Crank Pos. Sensor? Please help me! I really don't want to lose this car to the junk man...Thanks for reading!
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    Not very hard, Inside the car there is a plastic punch out that looks like a U pop it out you will find a phelps screw
    unscrew it that will allow the old one off just replace
    in the same way. I have one just like it in a automatic.
    Mine whines the first 1/2 mile than stops any ideas?

    Art
  • m564agm564ag Member Posts: 15
    I HAVE BEEN HAVIN THIS STARTING PROBLEM IT IS HARD TO START AND ONCE IT IS GOING IT IS FINE BUT IF I SHUT IT OFF IT WONT RESTART. THE FUEL PUMP,COMPUTER AND SOME OF THE SENCERS HAVE BEEN REPLACED THE BELT IS ALMOST NEW AND IT DOES NOT GIVE A CODE BUT WELL HAVE THE CHECK ENG LIGHT COME ON THEN GO OFF. IT LIKE THERE IS SOME LOSE WIRE OR SOMETHING ANY IDEALS WOULD BE GREAT
  • deborahfdeborahf Member Posts: 15
    Hey Vanilla,
    Well...got the mirror. It is on minus one screw. (ha ha) I had someone help me put it on. There was one screw I couldn't get at unless I took out the door panel. So I skipped that part. It seems pretty sturdy though. Thanks again...and to all that anwered my question.
  • deborahfdeborahf Member Posts: 15
    I forgot something.....along with the new mirror there was a triangular rubber pouch. Did not put on because I did not know where it belonged???????
  • deborahfdeborahf Member Posts: 15
    Morning Art,
    Thank you. I have no idea why your car whines. Sorry. I bet someone else who reads this does.
    Deborah
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    The triangular patch goes under the base of the mirror. It prevents water from going in the car at that critical junction: frame, window, mirror. If you go more than 12 miles an hour, you need to install it. Water seeps inside when it rains or when you wash your car....Now think of your mirror as a three legged table. They are never wobbly. Take off a leg, it will fall. That's because of triangulation. So, thus and therefore, three are better than one, not in everycase, but certainly here. When your suspension is going to go (and it will, normal wear and tear) the small vibrations won't be too good for your mirror, so, don't be lazy, install your missing screw and the gasket. Up to now, you score a two out of ten. And I'm generous. SO COME ON NOW! INSTALL THAT MIRROR PROPERLY! IT'S THE SIMPLEST THING TO DO ON THE WHOLE CAR!
    Sheeesh!
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Change your belt or have it tightened. moisture settles on it, when it warms up, the moisture dissipates. It could also be that it's worn. They do a lot of traveling under tension...and heat. Normal. These little cars are great but require attention. Most stuff you can do. Grinding valves on top of the kitchen sink is left to the experts.....
    toodle-dee-doo-cracker-bits.( say it three times, it exercises all the muscles in your mouth, do it in front of a doctor, great fun).
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