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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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Comments

  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    I got it fixed the alternator, After getting the normal squeel
    when the the alternator belt is not just right. I believe 1/4
    inch give on belt is most correct. Do all a/c belt adjust
    the same way with that slide bolt. The geo does this is how
    you remove the a/c belt. Anyway finally fixed it life is great.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    Have you checked the fuel pump I think it is in the gas tank.
    Seems like a blocked fuel line maybe clog fuel filter. What
    about the salanoid on the injector?
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    There is a electrical component called a neutral switch at
    the auto transmission has a fuse there check it. Then get a
    new starter also remember you must depress the brake to shift
    the from park to neutral. Now you must also assume the alternator may br dead because the battery is totally drained
    because the radio and lights were used when it died. The battery may be able to be saved. Put another battery in your
    geo try it again. If it starts while the engine is running
    remove the positive cable and see if car dies. It is an alternator
    then. Note the alternator has three phases thus can die slowly
    without warning. Good luck
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    Thanks it turned out to be a loose alternator belt I installed in actually needs a 1/4" play no more no less. It runs great now.

    Art
  • econovertibleeconovertible Member Posts: 5
    I did check the fuel pump, it runs. The solenoid operates as well, it feeds positive voltage to the injector, but it needs an intermitent ground, which it is not getting. I am really stumped at this point, I really don't want to scrap my lil Vertible :( . Thanks for responding, if you can think of anything else please tell me!
  • lillaurasue22lillaurasue22 Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Chevy Metro (automatic) will stall intermittently while I'm waiting at a red light. When it stalls the car won't re-start but the engine will crank. However, the car will restart when it is jumped. The mechanic doesn't know what is wrong as assures me it's not the alternator, battery, starter or fuel injector/pump. Is this a common problem that anyone may know about?? Thanks!
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    This is in the fuel delivery system. A faulty fuel pump, the
    electric fuel pump wiring could be loose it is a prong plug
    at the gas tank. Check the fuel filter,Check the fuel line,
    maybe a additive could help in the fuel. The carburetor float
    could have a pin hole. Take car to a carb shop have them
    test the carb ,test the vacumn pressure. Sometimes these
    problems are caused by faulty ERG and broken plastic joints
    in the smog system. If all this checks out neutral switch
    at the automatic transmission could be loose or faulty.

    Art
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    Simple stuff: Battery poles are gunky? Clean them with a
    wire brush that is acid be careful. Inspect the battery
    clamps are they broken be sure. Check the battery cables
    make sure they are sound. Remember the alternator is three
    phase. Once it is started remove a positive pole wire does
    the engine die yes replace alternator. Sometimes this can
    happen with a faulty bulb in the brake light check to
    make sure they are dry. Sounds like a short in the wiring
    somewhere.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    Could you E mail or post a picture of the part that is giving
    you trouble. Maybe a video with sound. I know this is going
    to sound odd but a stethoscope recording . Just take a small
    mike and tape it to the part and operate it maybe that
    would shed some light. Maybe next time I visit the junk yard
    I will look for a replacement let you know what they want
    for it maybe it a simple crack in a vacumn type valve that
    is not opening and closing at the right time. This i a mechanical issue something is not opening and closing properly
    or consistently.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    Check the air filter and fuel filter. Do you drive in dusty
    conditions? Take to a carb shop could be a dirty throat.

    Art
  • 2nd_one2nd_one Member Posts: 1
    Ok, I am new here. I just bought a 2000 Metro. When I go to shift it from park into any of the drive gears, it sounds like when you put a tranny into park when driving...kinda a grinding sound...and the car does not move. It runs/sounds fine in park and neutral. I was told its some kind of relay or something inside the tranny. It sounds like it could be something that just turned loose or something like that. Any ideas?
    Thanks
  • acanofwd40acanofwd40 Member Posts: 1
    I need to do some routine maintenance on my 93 metro. I don't have the owners manual and I need to know the valve tolerances for my 55hp rocket. AKA the Suzuki Outrunner. The previous owner doesn't remember the last time he checked the valves.
  • jazzie_girljazzie_girl Member Posts: 3
    hey stan! thanks agin for those they were helpful. But my old computer crashed and i no longer have the pictures. i was wondering if you could possibly resend them. thanks so much flowers_screaming@hotmail.com
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    YOu do not need adjust the valves.
    They are self adjustable. If you need proffesional manuals, please let me know, Mark
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    Any autoparts can supply parts and also ebay.
    Do not worry. I got 3 of those and never quit. Do not abused. Replaced oil every 3500 milles. Depend where you are, but if you are around North of US, used 10/30 all year around, but in January and February are recomended to switch to 5/30.
    Those engine are very sensitive for dirt.
    Any question - let me know. Mark
  • stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    I found the message & resent it. Enjoy your new computer - but make regular backups!

    Best,

    Stan
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    I own 1994 Geo Metro 1.0 3 cyl 119,000 baby miles on it.
    I am second owner. All the parts alternator battery wipers
    rear hatch struts belts available at pep boys or auto zone
    Body parts like inside door latches can be had the pick your part mine is in anahiem on katella in the OC. I have got a bracket for alternator too. Also a rim and geo lights etc
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    There is a nutral switch take it to AAmco the evaluation is free.
  • crazyman13crazyman13 Member Posts: 1
    My Geo no longer runs, it is a '96 Metro LSI,auto 4cyl.Water spued from around belts, will sell cheap, everything else is good on car.
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    Great ! where is the car located?? ;)
  • dangerdudedangerdude Member Posts: 15
    Dear Crazyman .. don't get excited yet .. sounds like your water distribution pipe came out of the water pump housing on the back side of the engine (?) Mine just did that, same result. I discovered the water pipe had not been re-attached with the bolt on the tranny housing like it should have been (previous owner). The pipe slips out of it's fitting and dumps coolant. Check it out? Could be what you have. Easy fix if it is. Metro's are too valuble to let go these days. Just my 2 cents.. Good luck man! DangerDude
  • nico1005nico1005 Member Posts: 4
    Hello

    I'm a new Geo Metro owner from Romania / Europe. My car it's from 1991 , 1000 cc turbo, 2 doors and it looks fine, but it need some small repairs .
    I want to make my self this repairs, but I don't have a Repair Manual .

    There is someone who have a repair manual ( soft on PC )? Or to redirect me were I can find . I prefer for free :)
    If you think that you can help me , please send documentation to : FLORINNICOLICI @ TI.SLR.COM ( without spaces )
  • nico1005nico1005 Member Posts: 4
    Hello Mark

    I understud tat you have some proffesional manuals for Geo Metro (sprint ).
    I'm a Geo Metro owner from Romania / Europe ( 1000 cc turbo , 1991, 3 cylinder engine )
    I need a repair manual ( soft on PC ) in order to make some repairs myself.

    Other issue is : I want to know how are the serial no. stick to body car ( there is a meral board with serial no. stick with rivets on the body of the car ???? - Engine compartment and Left dor )

    If you think that you can help me please send this manual to : FLORINNICOLICI @ TI.SLR.COM ( without spaces )

    Thank you
  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    Can anyone tell me where I can purchase some of the gray plastic push pins that hold the plastic panels in place? I found a few on eBay a couple of years ago and need to pick up some more. The pins have the round pin in the center, and you push down on the outer ring and into the panel holes to hold them in place. Wish I had a better description. Any help would be appreciated!
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Those are hard to get. I replaced them on one of my cars with regular christmas tree push plugs,
    Your best bet is recycling garages or scrap yards. To be able to remove them without breaking one of the 4 fragile legs, you have to PUSH the center pin about 1/8 of an inch, no more, it will then be easy to pull up by the larger crown. One thing for sure, they come in a variety of greys! seldom the right tint. You can use the christmas trees where they don't show, under the carpet in the rear for example and reclaim those for a match somewhere else.
  • dangerdudedangerdude Member Posts: 15
    Fellow Metrophiles .. These push pins are odd little things but they DO seem to work. There is a short learning curve using them but it's embarassingly easy to master. I guess you can find them at Auto Zone or some other such store. But The solution is easier than that (for me) I visit my salvage yard foe relaxation and therapy and always remove as many or these little beauties as I can reach. It's a peaceful feeling knowing you can break two or three and not worry about it. There's my 2 cents for the day. Thank you all for reading. Now lets all run out and detail out Metro's .. with higher gas every day, they are truly beautiful machines!!! DangerDude
  • pwellspwells Member Posts: 1
    We have a93 metro and need to change timing belt but do not have the manual can anyone please help
  • senormechanicosenormechanico Member Posts: 24
    I have a 95 Metro with the 1 liter engine.
    The clutch is shot and I'm going to replace it myself.
    I have everything disconnected but the axles. How do I do that?
    Thanks in advance.

    Steve B.
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    two 1995's, One 1996, one 1997 and one 1996 Suzuki Swift (Metro twin) all coming to an end as I sell them off to make room for a new Toyota Prius. They have served me well-
    I wish all of you folks the best with the remaining Geo Metro's that are eft. Maybe someday GM will see fit to re-build with a new Geo line-something like VW did with the Beetle.
    :blush:
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Enjoy your new car and thanks for all the advice given.
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    Hello Mr.Prius.
    WARNING - you will pay to much for Prius to gain ZERO MPG.
    Compering Geo average 47 MPG with average speed 70 MPH you will never get close to 35 MPG on Prius with avrage 70 MPH.
    If you will notice - people drive slow on Toyota Prius to gain the fuel economy. Check on the the Hwy, the Prius drive 55/60 and I'm passing them very easy.
    On the market in present time you will not find any car manufacture to sell vehicle over 47 MPG. On the paper sound good, but in really life - you are looser.
    I got 3 geos and I will stock with them for long time.
    With prices going to $ 4,00 per galon, please look what you will purchse next.
    I can't say where I work, but no manufacture has any plans to bring small engine with the high MPG. The best is Geo metro 3 cyl. and the old VW diesel pick up 1981, 1982 with 5 speed manual. I got easy 60 MPG per galon on ythe VW.
    Just small explanation to people about the "Hybrid" cars.
    Let me know if you share my opinion. Ask GM to bring back the GEO. Maybe thay will share your opinion.
    Mark
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    I know this is going to sound strange but I own Geo 94. Mini
    cooper and a Buick Park Ultra on the way to LA the buick got
    95 MPG for 4 minutes wow!
  • senormechanicosenormechanico Member Posts: 24
    I received a Chilton's manual. Not very detailed, and certainly not written perfectly, but after reading ahead to halfshaft removal, I added corrections to the transaxle removal instructions. I'm on my way to a new clutch.

    As for post #1158, was that going down the grapevine???

    Steve B. (backup car is a Chrysler 300M)
  • senormechanicosenormechanico Member Posts: 24
    My clutch installation went fine, but first and second gear synchros are shot. (Previous owner went through 2 clutches in 3 years because she didn't know how to shift.)
    Has anyone gone through a transmission and can give me any pointers for replacement?
    I've sailed offshore, can fix almost anything electronic or mechanical, diesel, refrigeration etc., but I've never been inside a manual transmission.

    Thanks in advance,

    Steve B.
  • zuk07zuk07 Member Posts: 3
    New to this site. I want to know if anyone knows if a Geo Metro 5 speed transmission or transaxle will fit in my 99 Suzuki Swift?
    I have the trans out and need a good used one only got 176,000 miles out of this one.
    Thanks
    :confuse:
  • nico1005nico1005 Member Posts: 4
    Hello Pipeman

    From my knowledge it's the same car , but different names .
    There are some differences at interior designs .

    I'm sure that it will fit .

    Do you have some Repair Books ? I need one in electronic format .

    Good luck with your changes
  • zuk07zuk07 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks now I need to find a good used Geo trans.
    I thought they were the same. I knew many body parts would change didnt know on any of the other parts.
    Thanks
    Zuk07
  • freesiagirlfreesiagirl Member Posts: 1
    Hi! I am new to this forum, and a new Metro owner. I purchased a 1994 4 Door Hatchback, 5 Speed with 92,000, just last week. It makes a roaring noise when driving, and sometimes a clicking noise when stopping, but not when turning the wheel. The previous owner had the right front bearing and left tie rod end changed. And replaced the transmission with a used one. He also put alloy wheels on it, tires are size P1965/50/R15. Would the bigger tires cause a problem? Also, would they lower my gas mileage?
    The car also had a vibrating brake pedal. My hubby changed the front rotors and pedals, and the brake vibe is gone, but the noise is still there.
    I took the car to an auto center, had them check it out. The tech said it needed a right front bearing, and possibly a rough spot on the axle. So they ordered the parts and I took it up there again this morning to be changed. But the tech that was there this morning, didn't change it. He said there was no play, so he didn't think it was the bearing. He put it up on the lift, and listened with a stethoscope and couldn't hear the noise from the bearing, but did hear noise from the transmission gear box. He said maybe the bearing in the trans were going bad, or low gear oil. The car shifts and drives fine, so is it possible that's it the trans? I am very frustrated, and just want to get this figured out, so that I can drive my cute little car. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions?!! Also, my gas mileage isn't too good. Around 30 mpg, whereas edmunds.com says that this car should get 46-49 mpg. A tuneup has already been done, so any suggestions there? THANKS!!! :-)
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    I don't know if this can help, you never know.
    I also changed to that size tire and had that clicking noise when going slow , and a somewhat roaring noise at speed.
    Turned out (no pun intended) that a rear brake line had escaped from a small retainer clip and was rubbing against the wheel balancing weight on the inside.

    These tires are on my convertible, they should make you save gas. But not if you take off like a rocket.
    I would really check the air filter, a clogged catalyser and other regular stuff.
    Now if you like to store things in your car or always have more than two on board, expect much less economy. I seriously managed to do 62 miles per gallon with my vert, in mountanous terrain, when I went to pick up new GT seats for it. I had removed the passenger seat for that trip to Northern Quebec. Good luck in finding this pesky noise.
  • 3banger13banger1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all, new to this so excuse my ignorance.
    Got a 96 L3 metro 1 litre.
    The altrnator belt and or A/c belt started 'howling' a while back and I noticed that the belt *alt) looked like it was actually cutting into the timing cover (made of plastic).
    Noticed that the water pump shaft was loose so I had our mechanic replace the water pump and front main oil seal and for good measure, the timing belt.
    No squeals for a week or two then it statred back again.
    Where can I find a new or used timing cover, or how does one adjust it, and could it be the alternator causing the problems as it only squeals when the air blower and or the fans kick on ?(it's NOT the AC)
  • wkrejciwkrejci Member Posts: 2
    when I did mine I disconnected the lower ball joints 1 boly each and after draining the trans you lightly pry them away from trans.
  • wkrejciwkrejci Member Posts: 2
    I have a metro 1998 it will start every time for 4 fires of each plug then flat lines

    I cant figure it out I've changed the ecm

    any ideas ?????
  • senormechanicosenormechanico Member Posts: 24
    Does it die as soon as you let go of the ignition key after cranking? If so, it could be the ignition switch itself.

    Steve B.
  • jmizelljmizell Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone have any experience in towing a five-speed Metro? I have a 94, 2-Door, that I have restored and use for a tow-car behind my motor home. Thus far, I have pulled in on a tow-dolly, however, it would be much easier pulling it on all four wheels if that is possible. Does anyone know if that will harm the transmission? Thanks.
  • m564agm564ag Member Posts: 15
    Well there I don"t see any real problems with flat towing it at all. I have flat towed mine well over 5,ooo miles. the only real things that were a problem is mounting the tow bar. Good Luck to ya Mike
  • m564agm564ag Member Posts: 15
    Dido on that I have a 98 also 4cly that startes well it feels like it so I bought a ecm for it ok it started right up and after driving around for a while and back it to the driveit died again so I but the other {old] ecm in it and it started right up again went to town 35 miles from home and geuss what it wouldn't start again so I put the new ecm in and bang it fired right up. what is it with these things? thank god the 94 metro with 200k on it still runs and drives like a champ!!
  • yago3yago3 Member Posts: 3
    Just rebuilt thr head on a 1991 Geo Metro. I don't have the VECI label under the hood. What is the timing on this engine 6deg. Also, where can i get a vaccum diahgram at. :)
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    Automatic or stick?
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    One thing that can cause intermittent starting problems, and is very difficult to find, is a tiny crack or carbon track in the distributor rotor. It can be checked by taking off the distributor cap, pulling the coil wire out of the distributor cap's center terminal, and first checking for spark by holding that end of the coil wire about 1/4" from the valve cover, while someone cranks the engine. CAUTION; TO AVOID GETTING A SHOCK, WRAP A THICK, DRY RAG AROUND THE WIRE WHERE YOU HOLD IT, OR KEEP YOUR HAND AT LEAST SIX INCHES AWAY FROM THE EXPOSED METAL TERMINAL. If a spark jumps from the wire to the valve cover, then you know the coil is working. After that, hold the end of the coil wire about 1/4" above the center end of the metal rotor blade, while someone cranks the engine. If the rotor is good, there should be NO SPARK between the wire and the rotor. If a spark jumps from the wire to the rotor, then replace the rotor. It would also be wise to replace the cap along with the rotor.

    If the coil and rotor both test good; then the problem is most likely a bad distributor cap and/or worn or dirty spark plugs. Metros are VERY demanding on spark plugs. They can look clean, and still not start reliably. I've found that changing to a plug of a different brand will sometimes make a huge difference. And be sure to use the recommended plug number (sometimes the plug that's now in the motor may not be the recommended type) Also, sometimes the carbon button can fall out of the inside of the distributor cap. That can cause all sorts of crazy symptoms.

    If, and only if, all of the above suggestions didn't help, then I would replace the ignition pick-up unit in the distributor.

    Incidentally, when replacing an ECM, it is important to disconnect the battery before doing anything to the ECM. Just having the key out is not enough. There are electrical feeds to the ECM which are hot even with the key off. Unbolting the ECM with the battery connected can cause damage, or disrupt the programming. You can reset the ECM's programming by disconnecting the battery, and waiting at least 30-45 seconds before connecting the battery again.
  • yago3yago3 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1991 Metro Geo. Had burnt valve o n exhaust which is normal for these little cars. I have weak spark at the plugs. Not a fat blue one, but a red one. Starting checking ignition found the coil. Not original. A replacement coil that had external resister required. Wasnt one with this car. Looked at manuel shows coil with a resister bolted to it I think. If it needs a external resister how come i havent blowed a coil. Coil is ok, Within range. Get a resister. or a coil with resister nbuilt in? Thanks for any help.
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