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Rock Auto online (www.rockauto.com) carries ignition parts for both U.S. and Canadian model Metros. And their prices are better than anyone else on quality parts.
But regardless; if the pick up has 213 ohms resistance, it passes the test. The ignition module is a separate unit, which is a small black plastic box with three terminals in the connector, and is mounted near the coil on the firewall.
It is normal to get a weak spark when testing the coil without the ignition module in the circuit. One way to test the module is to connect a dwell meter to the negative lead in the harness plug at the coil (the one which does not have battery on it when the plug is disconnected from the coil) (If you read voltage on both the wires at the coil; disconnect the plug from the ignition module, and then test to see which of the coil leads has battery power after that). and crank the engine while watching the meter. The plug must be reconnected to the coil in order to test the module, so after you identify the negative wire, you may need to pierce the insulation on the wire with a pin, in order to get a contact. If you don't get a dwell reading of some value, then the module is defective.
Another way to test the module is to disconnect the harness plug at the coil, and connect a voltmeter or a 12 volt bulb between the two terminals in the plug. Then crank the engine, and see if the voltmeter reading fluctuates rapidly between zero and 12 volts, or the bulb flashes regularly. If you don't get any switching from the module while the engine cranks; the module is defective.
I hope you didn't forget to connect the plug from the distributor to the harness. That would definitely prevent it from starting. Another possible issue is that the battery ground terminal MUST be connected to BOTH the engine and to a clean bolt in the fender well. And a third issue is that there is some kind of anti-theft feature built into the Metro ignition system; which will shut down the spark, if you try to bypass the ignition switch.
The AC Delco part that has the original equipment part # 96067829 is their replacement part # D566. And that is the part which has numbers on it in the picture. It is also about $166 cheaper than the #D1640.
But it really doesn't matter whether the part you get has the same numbers on it or not. All of those modules will work. Judging from the OE numbers; I expect the # E1993, which is even less expensive, is an earlier design; and the # D566 is a later (and thus hopefully upgraded) design. But there's no way of knowing what the actual difference is between these modules; or whether the less expensive Standard Ignition and Airtex parts are as good or not.
Incidentally; you might be interested to note that there are three categories in Rock Auto's Metro listings which list the same type of part: "Distributor transistor unit"; "Ignition Control Module"; and "Ignitor". #D566 is listed under the "ignition control module" category as being intended for Canadian vehicles which have the Z49 engine option; but under the "ignitor" category; it is the only item listed, and it doesn't say anything about Canada there. So I expect that most Canadian Metros did not have the Z49 engine option; and that that particular engine option used the module from the American model Metro.
Alternately, the "distributor transistor unit" listing includes a Beck Arnley module which looks different, because it is shown upside down, and is mounted on a large heat sink; but I'm sure that is the same unit. Beck Arnley supplies parts which are manufactured by the original equipment Japanese companies. They are often of better quality than the U.S. made "equivalents." So I personally would buy the Beck Arnley unit, and mount the heat sink on the firewall. But if I were to buy any other unit; it would be the AC Delco #D566.
Two questions: Can this be attributed to anything other than front end parts (CV joint, ball joints, etc.)?
Could it have been caused by the normal take-off-the-wheel-and-replace-the-shoes kind of thing?
I'm not happy about this, and not too eager to pay for front end stuff that was OK until 24 hours ago.
If a foreign object has become wrapped around a wheel, it can also cause such a thing. So could a tire which has gone flat. For those reasons, it is important to thoroughly inspect that wheel (including rolling the car far enough so that you can check the entire surface of the tire). Sometimes running a hand along the tire tread will reveal a lump in the tire, which may not be initially apparent to the eye.
Just removing and replacing a wheel will not have such an effect (as long as the bolts were all installed and tightened). But if the sliders in one of the calipers were not properly lubricated, or were not installed properly; that could do it. My experience with Meineke is that they honor their warranty. It would be worth going back there, and seeing if they can find a mistake they made. You are not obligated to have them do any additional work, if you are uncomfortable with them.
Thanks....
3 to 4 is quite common among the bloggers on teamswift. Even to double overhead cam from Suzuki.
Basically you will have two mounting points to watch out for and the engine harness with the attached ECU, Map and other paraphenelia. Keep all driving shafts also. If you can retain the final drive gear from the 4 cylinder and install it in the 3 banger tranny. You will be amazed at the fuel economy ralised.
It is not a hard swap to do and I wish you success.
If you need an automatic; the larger 4 cylinder engine will have a much easier job in that environment, and will definitely have a longer service life. It also will give very similar; if not better fuel economy than the overstressed 3 cylinder; when pulling an automatic. I have repeatedly seen 3 cylinder Metro engines go bad at relatively low mileages; when coupled to automatic transmissions. But it's your call, and your money. I'm just a mechanic who knows the bottom line for that story.
purringbird@email.com
What you want is a SUZUKI distributor cap. Go to that dealer's parts department.
Your engine is a Suzuki.Change your plugs and wires while you're at it.
Toodle-dee-doo-cracker-bits.
Everything fit except the distributor cap, diameter is to small. Everywhere I go even the dealer ship the cap is to small. The cap you can order for a 1.0 is the same for a 1.3 liter motor. They are all to small. The diameter I need is 1 3/4 inches across and has 2 bolts that attach it to the distributor. Dosen't anyone out there have a 1991 geo. Please, please help my car is going to die if I don't get another cap. :sick: You can email me with your ideas at purringbird@email.com Thank You
Thanks in advance.
If the car is tilted upward at too steep an angle, and there is not enough fuel in the tank; the fuel pump may not be able to draw fuel out of the tank. Since you say that starting fluid does not help, this does not sound like the problem; but it still might be the case. In a situation like this; it is important to first turn the key to the position where the dashboard warning lights come on, and wait with the key in that position for a full ten seconds. Then turn the key the rest of the way to start the engine. This will allow enough time for the electric fuel pump to fill the lines and build up enough pressure to fully prime the injector.
I would also recommend that you disassemble the fuel pressure regulator (the small square plate with 4 torx screws at the corners, which is mounted on top of the throttle body next to the injector) carefully lift off the diaphragm and spring; and make sure the diaphragem is not torn, and that the needle on the bottom edge of the diaphragm is able to move freely and can close off the opening where it seats; and that nothing is stuck into or is blocking that opening. Too much fuel pressure could also be the problem here.
I was wondering if you could give me some advice on setting the timing and Idle speed. I have a rpm tester but it has no setting for a 3cyl. I have no decal on the inside of the hood providing me with specs. I do know about grounding the little pigtail by the drivers side tower strut,,for the timing. Oh, it also has A/C. But no belt.Thank you
luke
The timing is adjusted by grounding the pigtail, and watching with a timing light while you turn the distributor; until the little V notch on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the 6 degree BTDC mark on the timing belt cover.
That spec is probably correct; but I don't know for sure whether your particular engine is intended to be set a little differently. You'd need to check a service manual or owners manual to get the factory timing spec. Bear in mind that with breakerless electronic ignition, the timing should remain stable for the life of the car. So if it was originally set properly, you shouldn't need to readjust it; unless the timing belt has been replaced.
I followed your advice in the previous post and carefully took out the four torque screws on the fuel pressure regulator. No tears on the diaphram and the what looked like a small hearing aid battery moved freelly and looked otherwise in good shape. I also called autorock.com and spoke to one of their people and he told me that I would need to send in my old fuel injector to a company that rebuildes them for a VERY affordable price. The down side is it will take about two weeks for the process.(the mailing back and forth) But, Im sold on this Idea,,,it might take some time but cost wise it is worth it to me.
So once again I would like to thank zaken1 and this wonderfull forum for the timely advice they provide to fellow GEO owners,,,take care,,,luke
Joel
Your Geo is identical to some Suzukis so:
SUZUKI - TSB # TS3-0403261
Transmission oil leak at speedometer head (many Swift models are affected, but only the GTi/GT M/T part numbers are present here)
New parts:
1) Speedometer gear case : 29431-60B00
2) Speedometer driven gear (M/T, GTi): 26131-64B00
3) Oil seal (M/T) : 26151-60B00
4) Pin : 09205-03036
5) O-ring : 09280-16012
6) Speedo cable : 34910-61b20
Oil drainage has been added to the new style gear case and the diameter of the slotted end of the driven gear has been decreased by 0.5 mm
Installation Precautions
• Be certain oil seal is fully seated and square to bore
• Be certain the slotted end of the driven gear has no sharp edges that might damage the seal when installing
• Lubricate gear and o-ring parts
I'm sure vthat you can decipher this.
Thanks
You never specified what model you are driving: 3? 4? DOHC? SOHC? Year?
I don't understand why you replaced all those other components. Have you tested the compression, and found that there was a compression leak between two cylinders; or did the engine overheat and then start losing coolant.
It really would make it much easier for the people who read this forum to be able to understand what is going on; if you listed all the symptoms, and then explained why you decided to replace those parts. For example; if I knew that it had overheated, it would then be likely that the head has warped or cracked. If that had happened, and you just replaced the head gasket; without checking the head for warpage or magnafluxing it for cracks; then if it started sucking oil into the cylinders, it would be reasonable to conclude that the head is warped or cracked, and is now leaking between an oil passage and a cylinder. But since you didn't fill in the history, we have to guess about those things; and that makes it harder to know where to look.
When you say that it "doesn't turn over," do you mean that the starter does not turn the engine; or that the engine turns but does not fire. For now, I'll assume you mean that the starter does not turn the engine. And I'll also assume you've charged and tested the battery, and concluded that the battery is not weak and is not the cause of the engine not turning over. Considering that the head has been removed and the gasket replaced; if the head is warped and or cracked, then along with oil getting into the cylinder(s), it is likely that coolant is also getting into the cylinders. And when coolant gets into the cylinders; since it cannot be compressed like air, if enough coolant gets into a cylinder, and a piston then comes up on a compression stroke; the piston will strike the coolant and instantly be blocked from moving any further. The engine will jam in that position, and cannot be turned by any means. That condition is called hydrostatic lock. There is a magical way to both diagnose and relieve hydrostatic lock. Just remove all the spark plugs, and then try cranking the engine. If the engine now cranks, and sprays coolant out of the spark plug holes; your gasoline engine has now been converted into an electrically operated water pump. It will never work like an engine again; until you take the head back off, have it tested by a machine shop for warpage and cracks; and then have the head remachined, repaired, or replaced as necessary. You'll then need to buy yet one more new head gasket, and torque the head to manufacturer's specifications.
If the timing marks are properly lined up when you put the head back on, and the spark plugs are all clean and fresh; you may once again find yourself with a running engine.
The speedometer cable goes from the dashboard down to the transaxle. There is an oil seal (a small round rubber ring) that fits around the end of the speedometer cable where it attaches to the transaxle. If that seal is missing or damaged, it can cause the oil to be pumped up through the speedometer cable when the vehicle is driven. So, again, you need to have a mechanic disconnect the speedometer cable from the transaxle, and look to see whether the oil seal is undamaged and in place.
The new engine performs worse than the old one at high speeds of 65 to 70 MPH. I have to floor it to keep it at 65 going over overpasses or up mild gradients. Occasionally when floored, the Geo will suddenly lose power followed by a smell like the exhaust from a lawnmower. There's no additional noise to the engine.
It seems to avoid passing gear going up gradients, and has slowed to 40 MPH while floored. The "out of round" engine kicked in passing gear at 50 MPH while floored. The mechanics can't find the problem.
Did they check to see if the right type of spark plug was installed? If too hot a plug had been put in; or the gap was not set properly, that would cause the problem. You can't just install the same plug type that was in it before: The person who installed the previous set of plugs may have been a fool.
Your car apparently has an automatic transmission. If the replacement engine came from a manual transmission car; the throttle position sensor will be a different design; which is not compatible with your car's computer. And that could cause this problem. In that case; you'd have to swap the throttle position sensor with the old engine, or buy a new one. And the installed position of that sensor is HIGHLY critical; so it is very important to follow the adjustment procedure in the service manual.
Metros had 2 different types of distributors. One has a vacuum advance, and the other does not. The two types will both fit in the engine; but the type that was on your last engine is the only one that will work properly.
And the ignition timing should be checked, to be sure it is set to manufacturer's specifications. In addition; the throttle cable adjustment should be checked, to see that the throttle opens completely when the pedal is pressed all the way down.
I hope this helps!!!
Joel