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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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Comments

  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    The Canada classification in the part listing does not refer to the country where it was made; it refers to the country where the car was intended to be marketed. If this car is a U.S. model, there will be an emission label on the underside of the hood, which lists the tune up settings, and also says the car meets U.S. emission laws for 1995 model year new motor vehicles; there will also be a label on the doorframe which, besides listing the country of origin, will say "This vehicle meets all U.S. Federal specifications for 1995 passenger cars" or something similar. If it is a Canadian model, the label will say something to that effect.

    Rock Auto online (www.rockauto.com) carries ignition parts for both U.S. and Canadian model Metros. And their prices are better than anyone else on quality parts.

    But regardless; if the pick up has 213 ohms resistance, it passes the test. The ignition module is a separate unit, which is a small black plastic box with three terminals in the connector, and is mounted near the coil on the firewall.

    It is normal to get a weak spark when testing the coil without the ignition module in the circuit. One way to test the module is to connect a dwell meter to the negative lead in the harness plug at the coil (the one which does not have battery on it when the plug is disconnected from the coil) (If you read voltage on both the wires at the coil; disconnect the plug from the ignition module, and then test to see which of the coil leads has battery power after that). and crank the engine while watching the meter. The plug must be reconnected to the coil in order to test the module, so after you identify the negative wire, you may need to pierce the insulation on the wire with a pin, in order to get a contact. If you don't get a dwell reading of some value, then the module is defective.

    Another way to test the module is to disconnect the harness plug at the coil, and connect a voltmeter or a 12 volt bulb between the two terminals in the plug. Then crank the engine, and see if the voltmeter reading fluctuates rapidly between zero and 12 volts, or the bulb flashes regularly. If you don't get any switching from the module while the engine cranks; the module is defective.

    I hope you didn't forget to connect the plug from the distributor to the harness. That would definitely prevent it from starting. Another possible issue is that the battery ground terminal MUST be connected to BOTH the engine and to a clean bolt in the fender well. And a third issue is that there is some kind of anti-theft feature built into the Metro ignition system; which will shut down the spark, if you try to bypass the ignition switch.
  • GACIIGACII Member Posts: 5
    The car sticker says "meets us emmission standards." Thanks for the info I will check that out, however there is another wrinkle. I had the car block up for the overhaul and I needed to move the car to make room for another project so I took the car off the blocks and thought I would try one more time - hope springs eternal. The car started almost immediately and ran for about five minutes. I was checking for leaks etc. when the engine stopped - no noise no warning and no spark. At least I know that the problem is not with the overhaul as the engine seemed to run fine. I will let you know what I find with the module. GACII
  • GACIIGACII Member Posts: 5
    I checked the module as you suggested. The battery is a little low so the voltages are also a little low considering the -2 deg C temperature outside. When I pulled the coil plug and measured the voltage between the ternminals, it read 11.75 (with a DVOM) when cranking it dropped to about 8 V and varied slightly (7.6 to 8.2). I decided to try an old analog meter and, with the ignition switch on, the voltage read about 3V and when I cranked the engine the needle hardly moved. I also tried a test lamp with no light evident. Based on your previous post, it appears to be an ignition module at fault. I am confused by the Rock Auto parts list and the car manuf. classification. The picture of the ACDelco Part # D6140 (#96067829) has the same numbers and appearance as the one on the car but the listing says for Canadian vehicles. The car has US EPA certification and should therefore be non-Canadian??? The first character of the serial number is 2. The problem then is which part is correct? All the modules look like they would fit the car but only the ACDelco Part # D6140 (#96067829) has the same numbers on the pictured part. Help! GACII
  • jimmyv66jimmyv66 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 92 metro that won't fire, it has spark and can smell fuel. It has done this before but go out the next day and it fires right off but have noticed my fuel milage has declined lately. Can someone help me.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    Try a set of new spark plugs and a new distributor cap. The Metro engine is more sensitive to spark plug age and gap, distributor cap condition, and plug brand than any car I have ever seen. NAPA parts stores have the best quality distributor cap; which makes it well worth the somewhat higher price. I would recommend either Champion # 3405 Platinum Power, or Champion # 7332 Double Platinum plugs.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    There is some confusion in what you wrote. The AC Delco replacement part #D1640 does not have the original equipment part # 96067829 that you listed. That part has original equipment part # 19017167.

    The AC Delco part that has the original equipment part # 96067829 is their replacement part # D566. And that is the part which has numbers on it in the picture. It is also about $166 cheaper than the #D1640.

    But it really doesn't matter whether the part you get has the same numbers on it or not. All of those modules will work. Judging from the OE numbers; I expect the # E1993, which is even less expensive, is an earlier design; and the # D566 is a later (and thus hopefully upgraded) design. But there's no way of knowing what the actual difference is between these modules; or whether the less expensive Standard Ignition and Airtex parts are as good or not.

    Incidentally; you might be interested to note that there are three categories in Rock Auto's Metro listings which list the same type of part: "Distributor transistor unit"; "Ignition Control Module"; and "Ignitor". #D566 is listed under the "ignition control module" category as being intended for Canadian vehicles which have the Z49 engine option; but under the "ignitor" category; it is the only item listed, and it doesn't say anything about Canada there. So I expect that most Canadian Metros did not have the Z49 engine option; and that that particular engine option used the module from the American model Metro.

    Alternately, the "distributor transistor unit" listing includes a Beck Arnley module which looks different, because it is shown upside down, and is mounted on a large heat sink; but I'm sure that is the same unit. Beck Arnley supplies parts which are manufactured by the original equipment Japanese companies. They are often of better quality than the U.S. made "equivalents." So I personally would buy the Beck Arnley unit, and mount the heat sink on the firewall. But if I were to buy any other unit; it would be the AC Delco #D566.
  • misterm3misterm3 Member Posts: 1
    Just took my 2000 Metro (125K) to a local Meineke for front brake job. Ten miles (and one cold night) later, a thumping, sort of wobbling noise developed in the passenger side wheel. No hint of this after taking it out of shop.

    Two questions: Can this be attributed to anything other than front end parts (CV joint, ball joints, etc.)?

    Could it have been caused by the normal take-off-the-wheel-and-replace-the-shoes kind of thing?

    I'm not happy about this, and not too eager to pay for front end stuff that was OK until 24 hours ago.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    Sometimes, if snow becomes packed into a front wheel, it will cause thumping and wobbling noises, until it melts or is thrown off. Similarly; if the wheel bolts were not properly tightened, that could cause such things. So it is a good idea to look at the lug bolts, and pull and push hard on the top edge of the wheel; to see if it is loose.

    If a foreign object has become wrapped around a wheel, it can also cause such a thing. So could a tire which has gone flat. For those reasons, it is important to thoroughly inspect that wheel (including rolling the car far enough so that you can check the entire surface of the tire). Sometimes running a hand along the tire tread will reveal a lump in the tire, which may not be initially apparent to the eye.

    Just removing and replacing a wheel will not have such an effect (as long as the bolts were all installed and tightened). But if the sliders in one of the calipers were not properly lubricated, or were not installed properly; that could do it. My experience with Meineke is that they honor their warranty. It would be worth going back there, and seeing if they can find a mistake they made. You are not obligated to have them do any additional work, if you are uncomfortable with them.
  • torakkitorakki Member Posts: 7
    Hi, I have a 2000 Metro lsi 1.3L auto, that now has a bad cyl (low compression). I've been wanting to swap it out for a 3 cyl and think now is the time. Is it an easy swap to go to a mid to late 90's 1.0L? Is there a bell housing issue if the 1.0L had a 5 speed. What about mounting points, are they the same? Any other issues?
    Thanks....
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    You should specify if you are going manual to manual or to automatic.
    3 to 4 is quite common among the bloggers on teamswift. Even to double overhead cam from Suzuki.
    Basically you will have two mounting points to watch out for and the engine harness with the attached ECU, Map and other paraphenelia. Keep all driving shafts also. If you can retain the final drive gear from the 4 cylinder and install it in the 3 banger tranny. You will be amazed at the fuel economy ralised.
    It is not a hard swap to do and I wish you success.
  • torakkitorakki Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the response. I will rsearch the "teamswift" site for more details. I wanted to keep the automatic from my 1.3L but also wanted to gain the economy from 1 less cyl. I'm not quite sure how saving the final gear drive from one would work in the other... (different trannies). But I'm still sourcing a donner car so I have time to learn. Thanks again.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    I think you'll be very disappointed at the economy of a 3 cyl engine; when driving through an automatic transmission. The EPA rated the 3 cyl engines with automatics at TEN MPG LESS than the same car with a 5 speed. The reason this is true is because the small 3 cyl engine was designed to pull a very lightweight car; and the driveline was also optimized for the least possible load and drag. The 3 speed automatic has two less gears than the 5 speed manual, and thus places a much higher load on the engine during acceleration. And that is why all the fuel is wasted. I personally believe the automatic transmission on the 3 cyl Metro was only added to satisfy the demands of U.S. drivers; who typically don't understand and often don't care about the engineering tradeoffs that are necessary to get peak performance and best fuel economy.

    If you need an automatic; the larger 4 cylinder engine will have a much easier job in that environment, and will definitely have a longer service life. It also will give very similar; if not better fuel economy than the overstressed 3 cylinder; when pulling an automatic. I have repeatedly seen 3 cylinder Metro engines go bad at relatively low mileages; when coupled to automatic transmissions. But it's your call, and your money. I'm just a mechanic who knows the bottom line for that story.
  • GACIIGACII Member Posts: 5
    I got and installed the ignition module - no start. I decided to disengage all the electrical connectors I had moved or touched during the rebuild. What I found was a loose bolt holding a ground wire on the back of the intake manifold - I had pulled on the wire previously and it seemed tight but there are two ground connections inches apart and I pulled on the wire as if there was a single connection. The car started immediately and runs great. In a previous post you mentioned these wires and I checked but...... I hope my lack of attention helps someone else. Thanks for your help and insight.
  • brokestudent2brokestudent2 Member Posts: 17
    I think some ignition coils from some old Mazda and Honda models will solve any problem on the Metro.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    Them old coils sure worked on my car. It run better den it ever did befo.
  • nkleins1nkleins1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 metro as well, and it has the same rolling idle, and loss of mileage (from about 47 to 35 or so). I am wondering if you figured out the problem, and if it was the EGR valve sticking. Thanks
  • ki7whki7wh Member Posts: 3
    The metal pipe that connects to the back of the water pump has pulled out and I am having a heck of a time trying to get it seated given the o-ring around it. Any ideas or tips to get it in?
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    If the o-ring is old; it may have swelled. In that case, a new o-ring may be an easier fit; but you'll need to get it from a Chevy dealer (or possibly a Suzuki dealer), as it may well be a non-standard or metric size. I would also suggest removing the old o-ring, and thoroughly cleaning out all debris from behind and under it, and lubricating it with a light coating of silicone grease or WD-40 before trying to reinstall the pipe. Be sure the pipe does not have any burrs on it, and is not deformed. You may also be able to clean up the surface of the pipe with a file.
  • morgan05morgan05 Member Posts: 3
    96 Geo/Metro 1.3 engine runs good.engine light stays on want pass inspection code PO753 [shift solenoid a electrieal shows up] have changed the 2 solenoid in bottom of tranny[not cheap] didn't help if you take off in drive it acts like it's stuck in 3rd start off in low work to drive works good.Any ideas
  • purringbirdpurringbird Member Posts: 4
    Since you say that the car won't turn over, it very well could be your starter. The gear teeth do mesh with the fly wheel teeth. It sounds like the shop that did your clutch owes you some work. Now my question to you, I also have a 1991 geo metro lsi hatchback. I cannot find a distributor cap that will fit, where ever I go the cap diameter is to small. Have you had problems finding parts for your motor. Please email me with anything I love my car and its going to die if I don't find a cap
    purringbird@email.com :cry:
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Hi there purring bird....
    What you want is a SUZUKI distributor cap. Go to that dealer's parts department.
    Your engine is a Suzuki.Change your plugs and wires while you're at it.
    Toodle-dee-doo-cracker-bits.
  • purringbirdpurringbird Member Posts: 4
    :cry: My 1991 geo needed a tune-up so I go get cap, rotor, wires, air filter, etc....
    Everything fit except the distributor cap, diameter is to small. Everywhere I go even the dealer ship the cap is to small. The cap you can order for a 1.0 is the same for a 1.3 liter motor. They are all to small. The diameter I need is 1 3/4 inches across and has 2 bolts that attach it to the distributor. Dosen't anyone out there have a 1991 geo. Please, please help my car is going to die if I don't get another cap. :cry: :sick: You can email me with your ideas at purringbird@email.com Thank You
  • purringbirdpurringbird Member Posts: 4
    YOU ARE THE BOMB, OH THANK YOU OH THANK YOU IM ON IT LIKE BLUE BONNET. :) :shades:
  • ki7whki7wh Member Posts: 3
    I installed new water pump (finally). I did not pull the timing belt sprocket off so I think the timing should be the same when I put the timing belt on, but I did not check the marks. The engine almost starts but does not. Is it the timing or something else. The car has not been run for about a month and is the front end is at an angle on jack stands. Starting fluid into the throttle body does not help.

    Thanks in advance.
  • ki7whki7wh Member Posts: 3
    Thank you Zaken. I was able to get it in by putting some silicone spray in. Now to find out why it won't start.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    It would probably be a good idea to install new spark plugs (Bosch Fusion #4501 would be the best choice), the Bosch Fusion plugs have a non adjustable gap; but if you use a conventional type plug be sure the gap is set to .042". If the distributor cap (both inside and out), coil, or plug wires have dirt or moisture on them, that will also make it hard to start; those items should all be thoroughly cleaned with a rag moistened with brakecleaner or Stoddard solvent. And if the battery has become partly discharged from sitting so long, it will do the same thing. So fully charge the battery with a battery charger. If the starter still cranks slowly, have the battery tested with a load tester. It may have decided to die at just this time.

    If the car is tilted upward at too steep an angle, and there is not enough fuel in the tank; the fuel pump may not be able to draw fuel out of the tank. Since you say that starting fluid does not help, this does not sound like the problem; but it still might be the case. In a situation like this; it is important to first turn the key to the position where the dashboard warning lights come on, and wait with the key in that position for a full ten seconds. Then turn the key the rest of the way to start the engine. This will allow enough time for the electric fuel pump to fill the lines and build up enough pressure to fully prime the injector.
  • 9thirty39thirty3 Member Posts: 8
    I have a four dr. metro with the 3 cylinder motor,automatic tranny. I rebuilt the motor in 07. It quit running in 08 and didnt get around to messing with it until this week. I added 6 gallons of med. grade gasoline to the tank and replaced the fuel filter. Put in new autolite #63 plugs and it fired up and ran for approximately 5 seconds. I tried to start it again and it would fire off briefly. The plugs were drenched with fuel. I had a friend turn the key while I looked down the carb,,,turning the key I heard a click and a stream of fuel entered the tbi. then stopped. As soon as the starter engaged, fuel, in a vast amount entered the tbi.It looked like way to much fuel. I disconnected the small gray connector located on the highest point on the carb on the passenger side which shut off the fuel. By engaging and dissengaging this plug by way of this balancing act I was able to warm up the motor sufficiently enough to keep the plug engaged,and keep it running. Drove around the block,ran great. This morning it wouldnt run. Please help. luke
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    Good job at diagnosis!!! Your fuel injector is not shutting off completely, because it is sticking partly open. There are some professional quality DIY injector cleaning kits made by Champion Spark Plug Co, which you could use to clean the injector; but it would be better to exchange the injector for a completely remanufactured unit from www.rockauto.com You could also find a used injector at a wrecking yard; but that would be of unknown quality; and you'd need to be very careful not to get one from a model that has a different flow rate (and there are virtually no specs available on that kind of stuff). Also, you'll probably have to clean the plugs with a propane torch; as I bet they are soaked again.

    I would also recommend that you disassemble the fuel pressure regulator (the small square plate with 4 torx screws at the corners, which is mounted on top of the throttle body next to the injector) carefully lift off the diaphragm and spring; and make sure the diaphragem is not torn, and that the needle on the bottom edge of the diaphragm is able to move freely and can close off the opening where it seats; and that nothing is stuck into or is blocking that opening. Too much fuel pressure could also be the problem here.
  • 9thirty39thirty3 Member Posts: 8
    WOW!!! Thanks for the quick response! Im taking your advice, and will use them on my car. Thanks also for the rockauto tip.Their parts stock and prices are great!
    I was wondering if you could give me some advice on setting the timing and Idle speed. I have a rpm tester but it has no setting for a 3cyl. I have no decal on the inside of the hood providing me with specs. I do know about grounding the little pigtail by the drivers side tower strut,,for the timing. Oh, it also has A/C. But no belt.Thank you
    luke
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    There is no idle speed adjustment on that engine, and no need to set the idle speed; as it is electronically adjusted by the computer. So those folks who start messing with the factory sealed throttle stop screw are bound to get themselves into a big can of worms. Because of that; there is also no need to use a tach.

    The timing is adjusted by grounding the pigtail, and watching with a timing light while you turn the distributor; until the little V notch on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the 6 degree BTDC mark on the timing belt cover.

    That spec is probably correct; but I don't know for sure whether your particular engine is intended to be set a little differently. You'd need to check a service manual or owners manual to get the factory timing spec. Bear in mind that with breakerless electronic ignition, the timing should remain stable for the life of the car. So if it was originally set properly, you shouldn't need to readjust it; unless the timing belt has been replaced.
  • 9thirty39thirty3 Member Posts: 8
    Thank you once again,zaken1 for your excellent iinformation regarding the tweeking and dialing in of the ignition timing for the 3cyl. metro!
    I followed your advice in the previous post and carefully took out the four torque screws on the fuel pressure regulator. No tears on the diaphram and the what looked like a small hearing aid battery moved freelly and looked otherwise in good shape. I also called autorock.com and spoke to one of their people and he told me that I would need to send in my old fuel injector to a company that rebuildes them for a VERY affordable price. The down side is it will take about two weeks for the process.(the mailing back and forth) But, Im sold on this Idea,,,it might take some time but cost wise it is worth it to me.
    So once again I would like to thank zaken1 and this wonderfull forum for the timely advice they provide to fellow GEO owners,,,take care,,,luke
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    Luke, I just wanted to add that the inlet air temperature sensor (the brass unit mounted inside the air filter housing) MUST be connected when you run the engine. If that plug is not connected; the computer will think the outside air temperature is sub-zero cold; and will richen the fuel mixture further than you'd ever want it to be. And that will drown the plugs in fuel.

    Joel
  • mattdaringmattdaring Member Posts: 7
    ok, the oil is coming up the speedo cable and leaking into the dash. the car is undrivable with the windows up. does anyone know how to fix this??????please help!
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Hi there,
    Your Geo is identical to some Suzukis so:

    SUZUKI - TSB # TS3-0403261
    Transmission oil leak at speedometer head (many Swift models are affected, but only the GTi/GT M/T part numbers are present here)
    New parts:
    1) Speedometer gear case : 29431-60B00
    2) Speedometer driven gear (M/T, GTi): 26131-64B00
    3) Oil seal (M/T) : 26151-60B00
    4) Pin : 09205-03036
    5) O-ring : 09280-16012
    6) Speedo cable : 34910-61b20

    Oil drainage has been added to the new style gear case and the diameter of the slotted end of the driven gear has been decreased by 0.5 mm
    Installation Precautions
    • Be certain oil seal is fully seated and square to bore
    • Be certain the slotted end of the driven gear has no sharp edges that might damage the seal when installing
    • Lubricate gear and o-ring parts

    I'm sure vthat you can decipher this.
  • rightsassyrightsassy Member Posts: 1
    I am new to the forum, but have a question, are you discussing the heater system, my heater will blow on all settings, but no heat. Would this be the same problem? I am taking my 90 LSI to the mechanic next week, but would like to know a little before going.
    Thanks
  • mattdaringmattdaring Member Posts: 7
    where does the "oil seal" part go. are those suzuki part numbers you gave me?
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Yes.
    You never specified what model you are driving: 3? 4? DOHC? SOHC? Year?
  • mattdaringmattdaring Member Posts: 7
    it is an 88 geo metro lsi.1 liter.(3cyl) i dont thinks it has an overhead cam at all. it is a 5 speed
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    All Geo Metros (both 3 and 4 cylinder) were single overhead cam engines. And the first model year was 1989; so if you think yours is a 1988; you must be referring to the production date. Many 1989 model vehicles were first built in 1988, in order to allow time for shipping, so they could arrive at showrooms in September 1988. But they were designed as 1989 models. If you walk into a parts store and ask for a part for a 1988 Geo Metro; they'll tell you that there was no Geo Metro in 1988. If you look at the emission label on the underside of your hood, in the statement at the bottom of the label, you will see the model year the car was designed to be.
  • mattdaringmattdaring Member Posts: 7
    its a '89
  • speedmotionspeedmotion Member Posts: 2
    I took my 99 metro 1.3 4cyl to get the timing belt done and now it won't start, so I have replaced the ECM, Head gasket, head bolts,Cam shaft sensor and thermostat. It still won't start after reading a few comments we just got it to start but it is sucking oil into the intake so shut it off and tried to restart... won't turn over. What is going on? Any ideas?
  • mattdaringmattdaring Member Posts: 7
    does ANYONE know how oil is getting up my speedo cable into the dash and how to fix it?
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    It sounds like there are several different things going on here. If the problems all started when you had the timing belt done; the logical conclusion would be that the people who changed the timing belt messed something up. So the way to check that would be to pull the timing cover (sorry; there isn't an easier way) and confirm that ALL the timing marks are precisely lined up.

    I don't understand why you replaced all those other components. Have you tested the compression, and found that there was a compression leak between two cylinders; or did the engine overheat and then start losing coolant.

    It really would make it much easier for the people who read this forum to be able to understand what is going on; if you listed all the symptoms, and then explained why you decided to replace those parts. For example; if I knew that it had overheated, it would then be likely that the head has warped or cracked. If that had happened, and you just replaced the head gasket; without checking the head for warpage or magnafluxing it for cracks; then if it started sucking oil into the cylinders, it would be reasonable to conclude that the head is warped or cracked, and is now leaking between an oil passage and a cylinder. But since you didn't fill in the history, we have to guess about those things; and that makes it harder to know where to look.

    When you say that it "doesn't turn over," do you mean that the starter does not turn the engine; or that the engine turns but does not fire. For now, I'll assume you mean that the starter does not turn the engine. And I'll also assume you've charged and tested the battery, and concluded that the battery is not weak and is not the cause of the engine not turning over. Considering that the head has been removed and the gasket replaced; if the head is warped and or cracked, then along with oil getting into the cylinder(s), it is likely that coolant is also getting into the cylinders. And when coolant gets into the cylinders; since it cannot be compressed like air, if enough coolant gets into a cylinder, and a piston then comes up on a compression stroke; the piston will strike the coolant and instantly be blocked from moving any further. The engine will jam in that position, and cannot be turned by any means. That condition is called hydrostatic lock. There is a magical way to both diagnose and relieve hydrostatic lock. Just remove all the spark plugs, and then try cranking the engine. If the engine now cranks, and sprays coolant out of the spark plug holes; your gasoline engine has now been converted into an electrically operated water pump. It will never work like an engine again; until you take the head back off, have it tested by a machine shop for warpage and cracks; and then have the head remachined, repaired, or replaced as necessary. You'll then need to buy yet one more new head gasket, and torque the head to manufacturer's specifications.

    If the timing marks are properly lined up when you put the head back on, and the spark plugs are all clean and fresh; you may once again find yourself with a running engine.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    One big possibility is that the transaxle has either been overfilled with oil, and/or that someone put automatic transmission fluid in the transaxle, instead of the 75W-90 gear oil that belongs in it. So you need to either check yourself, or have someone who knows where to look and what to do, check the level and type of fluid in the transaxle. If it is too full, the fluid is likely to be pumped up through the speedometer cable.

    The speedometer cable goes from the dashboard down to the transaxle. There is an oil seal (a small round rubber ring) that fits around the end of the speedometer cable where it attaches to the transaxle. If that seal is missing or damaged, it can cause the oil to be pumped up through the speedometer cable when the vehicle is driven. So, again, you need to have a mechanic disconnect the speedometer cable from the transaxle, and look to see whether the oil seal is undamaged and in place.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    One more thing to bear in mind: If you replaced the head bolts with ones from a hardware store; it is possible that some or all of the ones you bought are longer than the factory bolts. Also, some factory head bolts are made in different lengths; and can only be used in certain locations. In that case, the bolts may be bottoming in the cylinder threads, before they start pressing on the head. And that would definitely cause all kinds of fluid and compression leakage. In such cases, you may have to stack some washers under the bolt heads, in order for them to tighten the cylinder head down.
  • brianschickbrianschick Member Posts: 2
    I just got a used engine put in my Geo to replace one that was "out of round" and wouldn't pass smog.

    The new engine performs worse than the old one at high speeds of 65 to 70 MPH. I have to floor it to keep it at 65 going over overpasses or up mild gradients. Occasionally when floored, the Geo will suddenly lose power followed by a smell like the exhaust from a lawnmower. There's no additional noise to the engine.

    It seems to avoid passing gear going up gradients, and has slowed to 40 MPH while floored. The "out of round" engine kicked in passing gear at 50 MPH while floored. The mechanics can't find the problem.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    I hope the shop ran a compression test on the replacement engine. The compression pressure in that engine should be 195psi. That is much higher than in many other cars. If it is less than 180 in any cylinder, the engine is in poor mechanical condition.

    Did they check to see if the right type of spark plug was installed? If too hot a plug had been put in; or the gap was not set properly, that would cause the problem. You can't just install the same plug type that was in it before: The person who installed the previous set of plugs may have been a fool.

    Your car apparently has an automatic transmission. If the replacement engine came from a manual transmission car; the throttle position sensor will be a different design; which is not compatible with your car's computer. And that could cause this problem. In that case; you'd have to swap the throttle position sensor with the old engine, or buy a new one. And the installed position of that sensor is HIGHLY critical; so it is very important to follow the adjustment procedure in the service manual.

    Metros had 2 different types of distributors. One has a vacuum advance, and the other does not. The two types will both fit in the engine; but the type that was on your last engine is the only one that will work properly.

    And the ignition timing should be checked, to be sure it is set to manufacturer's specifications. In addition; the throttle cable adjustment should be checked, to see that the throttle opens completely when the pedal is pressed all the way down.

    I hope this helps!!!
    Joel
  • brianschickbrianschick Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, Joel. I'll pass your note along to my mechanics in case they missed something.
  • geownergeowner Member Posts: 1
    Hey, did you ever figure this out? It might help to know that I've got the same problem with the same rig and engine. Mine is the same engine the car came with, too, not a replacement. I've also replaced everything you listed and the wires and, like you, checked the crank sensor, which tested good. I've not replaced it, but it might be next. Anyway, did you figure it out?
  • mattdaringmattdaring Member Posts: 7
    thank you, zaken1. do you know where i can buy a new o-ring? it is not a standard size, the dealer says its discontinued, it has no part #, it doesnt match anything at the auto parts stores.
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