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Comments
First of all; you've got to have clean, dry plugs in the engine, in order for it to start. Since you say the plugs are wet, they will all have to be taken out and dried off. The best way to dry plugs off is with the flame from a propane torch. In a pinch, a gas flame from a kitchen stove can also be used; but the stove burner flame isn't hot enough to burn off carbon deposits; it can only boil off gasoline. Be sure to hold the metal plug body with a pair of pliers, so your hand doesn't get burned.
While the spark plugs are out; the next thing I'd like you to do is to remove the distributor cap, and turn the engine until the rotor tip points to the 3 o'clock position. This should put the piston in #1 cylinder at the bottom of the compression stroke. Then hold your thumb over the spark plug hole for #1 cylinder, so that it seals the opening; and have someone either very briefly tap the starter, or push the car forward in second gear. As soon as the engine begins to turn, you should feel strong air pressure against your thumb. If the engine turns enough to move the rotor tip to the 12 o'clock position, and you have not felt strong pressure against your thumb; the timing belt is out of position. (If that turns out to be the case; I would suspect that the timing belt tensioner came loose because it was not properly adjusted or tightened. There are TWO bolts for the tensioner. The bolt in the adjustment slot is the first one to tighten; to set the belt tension, after the spring has pulled the belt as tight as it can. The second bolt is in the center of the tensioner wheel. It must then be tightened to lock the tensioner in the position where the adjustment was set.)
If you feel strong compression pressure against your thumb when the engine turns that 1/4 turn of the rotor (which equals 1/2 turn of the crankshaft), that proves the timing belt is in proper mesh. And this test will address the point which Senor Mechanico brought up, about the distributor being 180 degrees off.
The next thing to do is to hold the end of the coil wire close to and directly above the inner end of the metal strip on top of the rotor, and then have someone crank the engine. If there are any sparks from the coil wire to the rotor while the engine cranks; the rotor is internally shorted; and must be replaced. With a good rotor; there should be no sparks during that test.
If you still haven't found a problem; take the distributor cap out into bright sunlight, or put it under a 100 watt desk lamp, and look closely at the inside surface of the cap with a magnifying glass. If there are any cracks or lines radiating from the center terminal to any other part of the cap; the cap should be replaced.
If all the above tests come out good; install the clean, dry spark plugs, and try starting the engine while you hold the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor. The engine should be allowed to crank continuously for up to ten or fifteen seconds each time you're trying to start it.
If it still doesn't start; is it possible that you bought a tank of E85 ethanol fuel when you last bought gas? This engine will not run on E85. It is only intended for use in new cars which are made for it.
OK, here's where I'm at- Put in new plugs, wiring ok, cap-rotor & coil ok. I did the 3 o'clock test with the rotor. The piston did go to top dead center while the rotor is at the 12 o'clock spot with the piston at TDC. BUT, the marks where you time it (0-20), now has the little white timing mark set at 17 when the rotor is at 12 o'clock and the piston is at top dead center. Shouldn't the white timing mark line up to the 5 notch? Remember, this is a new timing belt. Could it have slipped after initial installation. Do I need to take the belt off to reset things or what.
Keeping the above post in mind- I am working on this car alone, so I had no one to turn it over to get the piston to TDC with the rotor at 12 o'clock, so, I can't tell if the piston was at the top of the compression stroke, or at the top of the exhaust stroke. I believe this would make a difference and maybe that is why the timing mark was at 17 and not 5.
When the rotor is pointing anywhere between 3 o'clock and 12 o'clock, the piston in # 1 cylinder will be on the compression stroke. When it is on the exhaust stroke; the rotor will point between 9 o'clock and 6 o'clock (with 6 o'clock being TDC).
Incidentally, the actual TDC position coincides with ZERO degrees on the crankshaft pulley. 5 degrees is when the spark is supposed to take place; but the crankshaft position at that point is 5 degrees BEFORE TDC.
In order to check the timing belt alignment; turn the engine until the timing mark lines up with zero degrees, and then look at the rotor position. It should be either pointing STRAIGHT UP (12:00) or STRAIGHT DOWN (6:00). When the timing mark lines up with 5 degrees; the rotor should line up with the cap terminal for the #1 spark plug wire. But the difference between TDC and 5 degrees BTDC is so small that it can pretty much be ignored for this purpose.
If the rotor does not point very close to straight up or straight down when the pulley mark lines up with zero degrees; the timing belt is off.
The timing mark is now set at exactly zero degrees and the rotor is pointing up exactly 12 o'clock. So I can assume that the belt is secure and that the timing is good, right? So, in light of everything I have done to the car, it should now start. I am almost afraid to try it. And, I always put regular gas in it from the same station, so bad fuel should not be the problem. I'll wait a few minutes to see if you send me anything else and then I will go and try to start it again.
The second possibility is what I mentioned last night; the timing belt may have slipped exactly enough to put the cam and distributor 180 degrees out of phase. And that is why I asked you to check for compression in # 1 cylinder when the engine begins to turns while the rotor is pointing to 3 o'clock. The fact that the engine spins fast sounds like what usually happens when the belt jumps time. But without checking for compression, there is no other way to determine this. So I ask you again; either find someone who can help you push the car a few feet in second gear; while you hold your thumb over the plug hole, or buy a compression gauge that screws in to the spark plug threads. With that kind of gauge; you can sit in the car and crank the starter for five full seconds with your foot at least partly down on the accelerator; and then walk over to the gauge and read it. Repeat this test on the other two cylinders. If the compression is below 50PSI; the timing belt has probably slipped. If the compression is between 80 and 125 PSI; the valves are probably burned.
There was a big blast of compression while the rotor went from 3 o'clock to 12 o'clock. So' I don't think compression is the problem. Per my previous post........
which thing is the fuse you want me to pull. There are 3 "fuse" looking things with different colors on top and 2 bigger black boxes right alongside them. The big box on the left says fuel, but I tried to pull it out and it won't come out. It has a lot of wires going to it on the underside.
This has got me stumped. Sorry to bother you with all these questions but NEED TO GET THIS CAR GOING.
Thanks.
I just read your last post; which invalidates what I wrote above. The only possibilities I can think of is that the plugs you're using were not sufficiently cleaned; or that the plug wires were not installed in the cap in the right order; or the rotor was not installed in the distributor, or the coil wire was left off the distributor cap, or the primary wires were not connected to the coil when you tried to start. But I expect none of these things were the problem. I'm stumped for now. Sorry!!!
Please do the following test; wrap a heavy, clean rag around the coil wire, and hold the rag so that the end of the coil wire is near a bolt in the valve cover; crank the engine, and see how far you can move the wire away from the bolt before the spark quits. Have a ruler nearby, so you can measure the greatest distance the spark will jump. Please tell me that distance; as accurately as possible. I would also want to know the color of the spark. Is it blue white, orange, maroon, or yellow? Also let me know if you hear any crackling or strange noises from the coil when you make this test. Coils and modules can be expensive; so we need to be careful about condemning these parts.
Please also tell me whether there are any add on items connected to the coil (like a tachometer) and whether the coil has an electrical plug attached on the opposite end from where the coil wire attaches. If it doesn't have such a plug; it probably will look like a tin can, with the coil wire and the two primary wires all coming out of the top. Which type is it; and is there a brand or any label on it?
While we're at it; please find the ground bolt on the back edge of the intake manifold, near the passenger side. There should be a bunch of wires fastened under that bolt. See if that bolt is loose, and if possible; take it off and clean off any corrosion on the manifold surface, the bolt, or the wire terminals. Then put it back on tightly. There is also a ground wire that runs from the distributor to a bolt in the firewall. That, too should be clean and tight. And the battery ground terminal (the one closest to the front of the car) should have two wires coming from it. One wire should go to a bolt on an unpainted part of the engine. There should also be a smaller wire which goes to a bolt in the fender. Please tell me if all these wires are on your car. Thanks!
After dropping out of college in my senior year as a Cultural Anthropology major and then having a series of abortive employment experiences; I decided I could not be happy spending my life working for someone else. I spent a summer at a spiritually based commune in the Nevada desert, and then returned to my beloved northern California; reinvigorated and inspired. A week later, I was walking down the street and saw a man struggling to start his Volvo. I offered to help; and ended up correcting an ignition problem which had baffled a series of previous mechanics. The grateful motorist turned out to be a professor at Stanford. He began recommending me to his students; and I soon had a thriving business. I then went back to night school, took some advanced courses in emissions, oscilloscope engine diagnosis and ignition electronics, bought a bunch of specialized tools, and spent the next 27 years as a self employed fuel, electrical, and diagnostic specialist. I never had to advertise; clients usually told their friends about this weird guy who had no official credentials, worked out of old buildings, charged half the hourly rate of the major shops (but usually spent twice as much time as they did to do a job; in order to do it right, and maintain sanity) and sold parts at no mark up. When word got out that I had decided to retire in 1997, one of my more creative clients somehow got hold of my address book; and secretly organized a huge farewell party. It brought tears to my eyes to see so many people whose cars I'd worked on for all those years.
I spent the next 3 years helping out at the US headquarters of a Buddhist meditation oranization in rural Maryland; until the stock market tanked in 2000. I then was hired to teach courses in engine theory at Motorcycle Mechanics Institute in Orlando, Florida. Having no formal credentials; I had to once again enlist the support of enthusiastic former clients; who wrote 20 letters of reference. And that was what got me that position. I taught at MMI for most of 2001, and loved the work; until bikers bad attitudes and a profit hungry administration eventually combined to create an unsustainable environment.
So that's why I'm back in California, and now write online. I hope this background information was not excessively long or boring.
If the wiring issues I mentioned do not turn out to fix your problem, and the information you provide indicates a weak spark; it will be necessary for you to buy or borrow a voltmeter, in order to conclusively determine the source of the problem. Radio Shack sells several different types of voltmeters which would be suitable. Any meter which can resolve the difference between readings as close together as 1.3; 1.5; and 1.7 volts would be suitable. A digital meter would be nice; but the very cheap digital meters have poor accuracy. If you're going to pay $20; an analog meter might be a better choice. That store used to sell an analog meter with a mirrored scale, for about that price. And it was a particularly good value.
Just remove the distributor cap, remove the fuel pump fuse, and turn the engine until the rotor points to somewhere between 12 and 1 o'clock. If it is too close to the 12 o'clock position, this won't work; so you need to aim for something closer to the 1 o'clock position. Turn the ignition key to the position where the dashboard warning lights come on; hold the end of the coil wire close to a grounded object with one hand, and turn the rotor counterclockwise against the advance spring with the other hand. There should be a spark from the coil wire each time you turn the rotor. If you rapidly turn the rotor back and forth, there will be a stream of sparks from the coil wire. If there are no sparks from the wire; you'll need to turn the engine to reposition the rotor a little more clockwise.
This method is a lot easier on the battery, starter, and doesn't flood the engine from unnecessary running of the fuel pump.
I have NEVER seen one of those modules go bad. (which does not mean it can't happen) But one little known thing that commonly prevents a spark is that you cannot run power through a jumper from the battery to the hot side of the coil (regardless of whether or not the ignition switch is on). The coil power MUST all go through the ignition switch; or the ignition system will not produce sparks. Apparently there is some sort of anti theft circuit which disables the spark if you try to hot wire the car.
I put a new distributor cap and rotor on it and it still won't start, not even a sputter.
I was wondering...if I take the coil to a parts store-do they check these things out to see if they are bad Likewise-the ignition module???????
All wiring is tight that you suggested I check.
The coil on your car is not listed as the coil that belongs on it; in the source that I usually rely on. But there is some confusion in the coil listings for Metros of that era; so I cannot be sure it is not the right coil. If you had a volt-ohmmeter; it could provide information about the coil which might conclusively determine its suitability. And a volt-ohmmeter would also be essential in determining whether the ignition switch has developed excessive resistance; which, along with the coil, is one of the most common causes of weak sparks.
But, for now; I'd like you to test the spark from the coil wire for its color, and to see how far it can jump; as I explained earlier. Since your car apparently has the type of distributor with electronic spark advance; the rotor cannot be turned, so you won't be able to use the test that doesn't require running the starter. But you've apparently been able to test for spark before; so I expect you have a remote starter switch, or an equivalent. If you can only crank the engine from inside the passenger compartment; I'll ask you to either get a remote starter switch; or I can explain how to make a usable jumper wire for cheap; or you can ask someone else to help crank the starter while you're under the hood measuring the spark.
I don't know whether spending 20 or 25 bucks on a voltmeter would be something you could afford or not; and I'd like to get a better sense about your limitations in that respect, so we can decide more appropriately on how to proceed from here.
But if you at least can somehow test the spark to see how far it will jump; that might be as much information as we need for now. So let me know where you stand on this.
Thank you Zaken1
ps Sometime when I try to shut the engine off with the key, the engine will keep on running even with the key out, usually if the battery is somewhat run down. I have to quickly disconnect the battery terminal when that happens. Could this ignition thing have anything to do with it.
The co that made the coil also made a lot of the other parts. Looks like a Japanese company (subcontractor or whatever).
The key problem is only of recent vintage. I really think that it doesn't have anything to do with the current problem. Just that when the battery is low, it seems not to kick off the key when you attempt to shut the engine off. Maybe something to do with not having enough juice to do it or whatever. Anyway, the car ran for over 1 1/2 years without any key problems before all this started.
As soon as I can get my roommate to work the key, I will measure the coil spark length, color, etc and report back. Many thanks.
Nippondenso is one of the largest automotive electrical suppliers in the world. It is owned by Toyota; and Geo (Suzuki) uses lots of their parts. They make top quality stuff.
Then, is there any way I could jump the wires or something like that at the key switch (like on TV) to see if it is in fact the key (provided the coil spark is ok).
I don't know anything about voltmeters and never used or saw one. I probably could learn to use it for this problem if I could be walked through it.
I learned to fly small planes and gliders since I moved here 13 years ago, but I am not Mr Technology when it comes to electrical stuff. If most people were like me, we'd probably still be living in caves.
OK, The spark was at least 3/4 inch to about 1 inch in length at maximum. It seemed about as big around as the stem on a Q TIP. The color was a golden yellowish mixture. very little blue except at the very tip. It seemed to be a strong spark as it jumped over to a closer piece of metal as I pulled it away from its first contact point. Made a good crackling sound. No extraneous noise from the coil itself. I guess this rules the ignition switch out as a problem? Recap: new timing belt and properly timed, new rotor, cap and plug wires, new plugs. Pulled 15 amp fuse to check possible over fueling-result-negative, all wiring connections tight, battery new, checked compression #1 cylinder at TDC-good compression. Only thing else I can think of is the ignition module, but you have said in a previous post they rarely fail. Engine just turns, doesn't attempt to start or even sputter, etc.
I think I have finally found the culprit, after replacing TB and about everything that attaches to it.
As far as I can tell, this is the first time I have EVER seen this: The pole piece teeth have pieces broken off and sticking to the pickup coil, which is scarred and gouged!
Under this condition spark would be erratic at best- no wonder starting and idling are crummy. Can't feel any wobble in the shaft, so I'm assuming that some know-it-all adjusted the pickup air gap to zero.
Something to look for in a used car from now on....
It could be possible to bypass the ignition switch; but it would require figuring out which terminals or wires to use; and probably taking the covers off the steering column. A wiring diagram would also be highly desirable in such a situation. A wiring diagram could be found at a good public library. There is one at a library in my area. But all this stuff is extremely time consuming; and potentially frustrating. So the question really comes down to whether saving the last possible cent is more important than saving your time and patience.
A new ignition switch from Rock Auto online is about $200; but there are few enough wires in the harness that bypassing the switch is not too formidable a task. However; you would at least need a 12 volt test light; if not a meter.
A new coil is $27 from Rock Auto online. I expect it is far more likely that the ignition switch is bad, rather than the coil; but I couldn't guarantee that.
So please tell me how you want to deal with this: 1> Take it to a shop. 2> Buy a new coil because it is the cheapest option and hope it fixes it. 3> Buy a new ignition switch. 4> Buy a test light or a meter, and try bypassing the ignition switch; which may also require getting some soldering or crimping equipment and a wiring diagram.
I replaced the distributor (and cap & rotor for the third time!), and put in a new set of plugs.
I get spark at all cylinders through either one or two rotations- then nothing.
Same for coil- fires either 3 or 6 times, then squat. I suspect this might have been taking place for a while, as it would start when first pushed, but not while cranking. If it didn't start on the first clutch pop, it would refuse until ignition was cycled on and off. And it would not start in second- only first or reverse.
Could the crankshaft rotation sensor have a dead spot, and only report rotation over 500 RPM or something?
Maybe this is a Metro with a Gremlin......
I'm going to try a new coil and see what happens.
Thanks very much.
Auto Zone here in Vegas has the coil in stock for $33.00 which I think is an ok price. I called Checker Auto and those guys wanted $97.00 and could not get it until 6/2. So I'm going to pick it up tomorrow at Auto Zone.
Could you elucidate as to why the ignition switch might be the problem, based upon what I described to you about it. What are the workings of the switch and how would it impact starting.
Thank you so much for all of your previous assistance.
I agree that the $33 is an OK price. But I'd like you to first make one simple test, which costs nothing; although you'll need a spark plug gap gauge and adjusting tool to do this. This test can only be done if your car does not have Bosch Platinum +2 or platinum +4 or Fusion plugs in it. I believe you said it now has Autolites; which will be fine for this test. Please take the plugs out; clean them if they are wet with fuel; and adjust the electrode gap to .030" (0.75mm). Then put them back in and try to start the car. If the car runs, you can leave the plugs gapped at .030".
When you tell me what the result of the test was; I'll explain more about the coil and ignition switch.
The symptom you describe; of getting sparks only on the first one or two crankshaft rotations; sounds like either a bad coil or a bad module.
The guy at the parts store sold me 3 new plugs that did not have to be gapped. I took the old ones out that were less than a year old (ones that had to be gapped) and replaced them with these new fangled ones, just to make sure it wasn't the plugs. I kind of wish I bought ones that had to be gapped, but it's too late now, unless you think I should change back. As far as the coil-I specifically told parts guy that it was a 1.0, 3 cylinder-convertible, and that was the price they gave me. If I have to get it, I will bring the old one with me when I pick up the new one, for comparison. You mentioned that you had an issue with the coil spark description that I related to you when tested. Can you explain your feelings on that and talk about the coil and ignition switch. This car is really starting to bug me. I really want to like it. I know you have had great luck with yours.
As an aside, I read most of all of your old various posts, and thought maybe that it wouldn't start because I didn't have the seat belt engaged whenever I tried to start it. I ran down to the garage full of hope and expectation-buckled up the seat belt and turned the key............and you can surmise the outcome. Darn.
Thanks again for your tireless efforts, I NEED to get this car going.
Previous to this I drove a 2002 Jag XKR convertible which never gave me any trouble. I paid a LOT of $$ for it. But, that was 2 years ago before the Vegas realty market crashed. Going from an XKR to a Metro is not too much fun but, right now I need to get mobile to run my job. Bumming rides is a real pain.
If the plugs the parts person sold you were not the brand and part number I specified: I need to clarify that whatever I say about spark plugs is HIGHLY SPECIFIC; and in no case is it appropriate to substitute some salesperson's generic preference. All brands of plugs are NOT the same. Some brands of plugs just will not run properly in the Metro engine. Metro engines are notoriously touchy in that respect. These salespeople inevitably don't know the fine points of plug selection; nor do they know which brands of plugs work well in Metro engines; nor do they know the difference between plug requirements for Metros of different years and model. So PLEASE, PLEASE only use exactly what I specify (even if it means going to a different store or special ordering a specific plug type.) I can't stress this enough!!!
I would like to know the brand and part number of the plug that doesn't need gapping; which is now in your engine. That information is printed on the plug porcelain or metal shell. The brand may be in one place, and the part number somewhere else.
The plugs I would now like you to get are any of the following four part numbers: AC Delco # R43XLS; or Bosch Super Plus # 7907 (This is a new part number, and may not be available; but DO NOT USE ANY OTHER BOSCH NUMBER); or Champion # 405 (also referred to as RN14YC); or Autolite # 63. Please do not substitute ANYTHING ELSE. You will need to reset the gap for whichever of these plugs you get to .030" (which equals 0.75mm).
When a spark is mostly yellow; it means the arc has a lower temperature than normal. A normal spark is blue/white. A spark that is yellow could be caused by shorted windings in the coil; or it could come from excessive resistance in the ignition switch; or from resistance in the wiring connections anywhere between the battery, the coil, and the ignition module.
Ignition coils are made by winding many thousands of turns of fine wire in a series of layers around a metal core. Each length of wire in the coil is insulated from touching any adjacent wires with a thin layer of lacquer. Sometimes heat, or vibration, or excessive electrical stress, or aging can lead to breakdown of the insulating layer on a particular section of wire in the coil. When this happens; the copper conductor in two adjacent wires can touch. This creates what is known as a "short circuit;" in which the electricity can detour through the shorted area; rather than flowing through all the windings in the originally intended sequence. Coils function by resonating (the electrical flow within the windings vibrating in harmony with the winding shape and size). If a short develops in a coil winding; it can interfere with the resonance; just like someone walking across a racetrack can interfere with the rhythm of movement of the runners on that track. When the resonance of a coil is hampered; the typical result is a reduction of the energy in the spark; which in turn reduces the spark's temperature. And the lower the temperature of a spark; the less effective that spark is in igniting a compressed air/fuel mixture.
An ignition coil gets the energy which is used to make sparks from power that comes from the battery. That energy flows through the battery cables, the ignition switch, the wiring harness, the coil, the ignition module; and then back to the battery. The ignition switch is the most vulnerable element in that system; because it contains movable metal contacts, perhaps 1/8" in diameter; through which the coil power flows. These contacts are moved so they touch each other when the key is turned on; which allows battery power to flow to the coil. But the contacts age over time, and thus become oxidized and pitted. When the surface of a contact erodes; the amount of area which actually touches the other contact becomes smaller and smaller. The smaller the area becomes; the hotter it gets when power flows through it. (Incidentally; when the battery is not fully charged; the voltage (electrical pressure) it produces becomes less; but the coil is designed to draw a constant amount of power, regardless of the voltage of the source. So when the battery voltage drops; the coil compensates by drawing more current, to maintain the same power level). The more current flows through the ignition switch; the hotter the contacts get. In extreme cases; the hot contacts can actually stick to each other. (and that's why the engine doesn't stop when you turn off the key when the battery is low). And this heat creates an escalating rate of degradation of the switch contacts and a progressively greater loss of efficiency in transferring power to the coil. The less power that reaches the coil; the lower the spark temperature becomes. And this makes it harder and harder for the spark to ignite the fuel mixture in the cylinders. This situation will continue to get worse; until the switch conducts so little power that the spark from the coil can no longer ignite the fuel in the cylinders. And that's when the engine will no longer start.
Your knowledge regarding these matters is absolutely astounding.The plugs I recently bought and that are in the engine right now have green lettering saying "E 3.46" which I believe is the part number. There is no manufacturer name on them, just a green circle around the top and a logo that says "E3" in green with the "E3.46" as mentioned.
One other thing-and I hope I am not driving you crazy, if I had the money right at present I would just take the car to a good shop to get it fixed..........but, alas funds are very tight right now.
Here's the other thing. As you know the ground wire for the battery goes to 2 places: 1st-the smaller ground wire is connected to the fender well. 2nd. the bigger ground wire goes to the engine block and is bolted to it. What you have just related to me regarding "resistance" made me think of this: awhile back when I first started having starting problems the engine kept on running as I previously mentioned after I shut off the ignition switch, so, I quickly unlatched the hood and disconnected the battery at the "ground" cable connection to get the engine to stop. Well, the bigger ground cable that gets connected to the block overheated to the point where the insulation was burned through in one spot about 1/4 inch wide and around 2-3 inches wide. Now you can see the bare wiring showing through at this point on the ground cable. My thought is that that entire "ground" wire connecting to the block probably suffered from overheating and who knows how that affected it. I didn't worry about it at the time because I figured a ground wire would be ok as long as it was connected at both ends. But, the car started and ran for a couple of days ok even after this, so I did not let it concern me. But, even if it did cause a problem, could that affect the spark quality coming from the coil? I mention this because I'm trying to think of ANY reason to get this cute little car running again AND to stop asking you all of these questions.
Thank you profusely.
You can make a crude test for a shorted alternator diode by disconnecting either one of the battery cables for a minute. Then touch that cable briefly back to the battery post it was attached to. If there is a spark when it touches; there probably is a bad diode in the alternator. (but it may be normal to see a tiny spark; I'm saying that a more substantial spark means there is a bad diode.) This would gradually drain your battery overnight; unless the diode has by now been completely burned through. But even so; it still would not be fully charging the battery. When the alternator works properly; there should NEVER be a need to recharge the battery (unless you leave the lights on, or something similar).
All I can add is that the present battery is brand new. Maybe I got lucky, as I have really asked a lot of this battery in the last week or so, trying to start, etc. It seems to work ok, really spins it over very well until at some point, it gets weaker as I keep trying to start the car. Anyway, the next day when I try to start the car again-it performs very admirably. If I get the car running, I'll make sure I get it checked, charged, etc to keep it in good condition. I will check out the alternator as you suggested. For now, my next step is to put in the plugs you suggested, with your recommended gap, and see what happens. If it's a no go, then I guess its new coil time.
Thanks.
The distributor ignition pickup is very sensitive to engine RPM, and is also prone to developing winding shorts in its sensor coil. If the sensor coil becomes shorted; it is very likely to create a situation where the engine will not have a spark below a particular RPM. In view of this; the observation you previously made about the engine only starting in first gear, but not in second; now sounds more like the ignition pickup is bad than either a module or a coil problem.