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Comments
Maybe my luck is changing with this baby.
Last night I went through the checklist on AllData for "engine Cranks But Will Not Run" as far as the ignitor, but all the tests appear to be only for the circuit, without the ignitor connected. Circuits are good, and I'm going to RPL the ignitor with a salvage yard component, just to see if it helps. The sparks I do get are yellow, so I'm thinking either coil or igniter are not up to snuff, regardless of whatever other isuues there may be.
I will try closing the plug gap to 30 first, and see if it kicks up, but I'm not confident that it will start in the one or two revolutions where I still have spark
Having replaced the distributor, since the engine will not start, I can't properly set the timing- is 5 BTDC a good ballpark static time?
Regarding the crank sensor; I don't know how accurate the test procedures for that item are. I've heard of many instances where a defective crank sensor will cause the spark to shut down after the first few revolutions. Because of that; I would consider replacing the crank sensor; even though it tests good by the tests you have done.
Hey; I also want to mention that Rock Auto just happens to have one remaining brand new Beck Arnley ignition module (which they call "Distributor Transistor Unit) for your car; which is a closeout purchase from some other warehouse. The regular price for that part is about $88; but they want $23.79 for this particular one. Beck Arnley is the highest quality supplier of import parts; and I have bought closeouts from Rock Auto before, and have never been disappointed by what I got. You can find this by going to www.rockauto.com looking up your car make, year, and model in their online catalog; selecting the engine size, and scrolling down to "ignition." There are separate listings for ignition modules and distributor transistor units; but they are really two different names for the same part. The Beck Arnley unit comes mounted on a metal heat sink.
Replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor- no change.
Flashed the ECM to expunge any bad learned behavior- no change.
Battery voltage with ignition 'ON' : 13.03V, 11.92V while cranking. (Drop of 1.11V)
Coil + to Batt - : 12.89V at rest, 11.77V while cranking. (Drop of 1.12 V)
Checking the Pickup coil in the distributor, I am getting 165 Ohms, rather than the 200 to 255 the book says, but I'm getting a pretty decent spark before it quits...
Also, and probably more significant, the harness for the Crank Sensor should have a minimum of 1M Ohm on each side. I get the meg on one side, but the other comes out to only 24K Ohms. Thinking maybe ground was leaking through a fault in the ECM, I swapped for my other ECM- all same same.
So My guess is that the Crankshaft Position Sensor is doing it's job, and the ECM is doing it's job, but the communication between them garbles the message and the ECM cuts off the spark after one camshaft rotation. (Why it would even have the idea of doing such a thing is a matter for another, more philosophical forum)
Anyone know of a good reference for the wiring harness that gives connector colors and pin defs?
(NO hair left- now gnashing teeth and looking for a good electrical engineer whom I can bribe with mead....)
So I would definitely replace the pickup coil before doing anything else.
Did you read the 24K resistance on one side of the crank sensor harness while the harness was plugged into the ECM? I don't believe that is how they intended it to be tested. Try disconnecting the harness plug from the ECM and then checking the resistance...
I believe this will solve your problem; but since you asked about detailed wiring diagrams; there are two excellent ones out there. One is in the Chevrolet factory service manual for the 1996 Metro; and the other is in the Mitchell electrical systems manual for 1996 model year vehicles. The Mountain View, CA public library has both of those books. If your local public library does not have either one; they may be able to order one from the regional warehouse for your County library system. You can also buy those manuals online (but Mitchell manuals are very pricey). A friendly garage may let you Xerox those diagrams from their manual (if they have one). Or you can bribe someone to Xerox them from a library that has the manuals.
This is where an odd grinding noise comes in sounding like a manual trans being shifted without the use of the clutch. Mash the gas it stops but the whole time accelerating it makes a noise like a turbo charging up.
Any Idea what this maybe? :lemon:
I hope you had the fuel pump fuse in place when you tried to start the engine, after putting the new plugs in it. If the fuse was not in; the engine would not have fired. I suggested removing the fuse so that the engine would not flood when you were doing spark tests or other tests which did not require the engine to run. But the fuel pump definitely needs to be running when you try to start the car (unless it is already severely flooded). But it would not be flooded if it has sat for more than a few hours. It is also important to wait until the pump sound stops, after you turn the key on to the position where the warning lights on the dashbard come on; before turning the key the rest of the way to activate the starter. If you try to start it before the pump stops running; the engine will be starved for fuel and will probably not fire.
Since you are getting a steady (albeit possibly weak) spark; I believe the .030" plug gap should have eliminated the possibility of a weak spark being the cause of the problem. So that brings us back to potential fuel system problems. From the symptoms you originally posted (engine quitting as soon as you give it any throttle) it seems very likely that your fuel filter has plugged up, or the fuel pump has gone bad (even though you can hear the pump running). So I'd like to see whether the fuel pressure test you once did would now still produce a strong stream.
If there is now little or no fuel flow; the first thing I would do is to replace the fuel filter. It is underneath the car, on the driver's side, just in front of the fuel tank (about even with the front edge of the rear tire). There is a sheet metal cover under the filter and fuel pump; which is held on by two bolts. This can be a messy job; as fuel is likely to run out of the hoses as soon as they are disconnected. To minimize the likelihood of fuel leakage; be sure to remove the fuel pump fues, and then turn the key on briefly, to bleed of any residual line pressure. Also briefly remove the fuel tank cap, to let any air pressure escape; and then put the cap back on before disconnecting any fuel lines.
If you have to leave one or both fuel lines disconnected for any length of time; a clean 1/4 inch diameter bolt can be used to plug the line.
I hope this helps!!!
I still haven't replaced the coil. Keeping the aforementioned in mind, if all these things check out what the heck could I check next???????? I have a new belt and timed it by lining up the little white mark with the zero on the timing indicator-and having the rotor pointing straight up at 12 o'clock. Rotor and cap are new, plugs are new, plug wires are new, battery was new (now discharged), all grounds and connections are tight. This little car is more complicated to me than any other car I ever worked on. It's a good little car when it runs but has so many sensors, electrics, etc. I liked working on cars 40 years ago when all you needed was hand tools. Thanks much for your latest response. It gives me renewed impetus to try again.
But when you install a timing belt; it is not accurate enough to just turn the cam sprocket so that the distributor rotor points straight up; while the crank pulley lines up with the TDC mark!!! This is nowhere near precise enough for valve timing. It is all too easy to make an error in judging which angle of the rotor is really straight up. The test I suggested earlier about lining up the timing marks and then looking at the rotor position is only useful for finding out whether the belt has grossly slipped or broken. It is not accurate enough to use for setting up a new belt installation.
In order to avoid such errors; it is first necessary to align the timing mark on the lower sprocket (inside the timing cover) with the pointer that is directly above that sprocket; and AT THE SAME TIME, align the two marks on the sides of the cam sprocket with the top edge of the casting for the cylinder head (which will place the two marks on the cam sprocket parallel to the top edge of the head). The belt tensioner spring should then be installed and given a little hand pressure assistance to pull the belt tight; and the tensioner adjustment bolt and tensioner mounting bolt should then BOTH be properly tightened. The engine should then be rotated at least one or two revolutions with the starter; and the alignment of the marks on the sprockets then rechecked.. This is necessary to confirm that the marks are still correctly aligned. Even being just one tooth off will mess up the way the motor runs. So will having the belt tension set too loose. It is all too easy to make an error in aligning those marks when the belt is first installed. If you did not use that procedure when you installed the timing belt; I would strongly recommend pulling the timing cover and rechecking the belt tension and the alignment of the marks, according to what I wrote here.
I don't remember which fuel hose is the supply and which is the return. If you pull one hose, and nothing comes out when you turn the key on; it is either the return hose, or the pump or filter are bad. If you then pull the second hose, and nothing comes out of it, either; it is definitely a clogged filter or bad pump.
Regarding priming the fuel system; this should NOT be necessary in a fuel injected engine. If the fuel pump and filter are good; the electronics will do the rest. And if the plugs are getting wet when you crank the engine; this proves it is getting fuel. The only time it is appropriate to prime a fuel injected engine is when you've concluded the fuel system is broken; and want to confirm that it will fire or run if you add some fuel externally. Two ounces is an appropriate quantity to add. The throttle butterfly should be briefly opened during or after the time the fuel is poured in; to let the fuel into the manifold. Then hold the throttle just barely open while cranking.
The air temperature sensor in the air filter housing must be plugged into the wiring harness when you try to start the motor. Otherwise, it will make the mixture too rich. But the housing can be placed anywhere the wires will reach; and the actual air filter does not have to be in place. The PCV valve must also be connected to its supply hose, and be plugged into the manifold.
A friend of mine with mechanical aptitude put the new timing belt on. It ran very well for a few days, but then my current starting problem surfaced. So, I'm pretty sure the belt and timing is ok. I am going to try out the other things you suggested.
Thanks
Now to get a throttle body....In checking some of the vacuum functions, I came upon the line from the TB to theEGR which is drawing NO vaccum at all, and the only way I can get it to start is to pull off another (live) line, and goose the throttle stop up to make it 'idle' at 1700 RPM (below which it dies), and if I put the vacuum line back or block it with my finger it immediately dies. I think this funky TB is absolutely the root of all my woes- explains why I could never get the TPS and idle motor to behave, the flooding at startup, the ...etc.
While replacing the drivers' side mirror on my 2000 Metro base 2-dr hatchback, the pegs broke on the black plastic triangular piece that covers the mirror bolts on the inside of the car. No luck finding it online, probably because I don't know what to call it! Any clues? There's a number inside it (LH 1405353) but it hasn't helped yet.
Cheers,
Steve in Florida
If these vacuum controls were not in place; the engine would stall as soon as the EGR valve opened.
I seriously doubt that the throttle body is defective. It is a very simple mechanical device, which rarely has problems. What I think is far more likely is that the vacuum hoses are incorrectly routed, the ISC valve may not be connected properly or may be defective, or some vacuum controls may be bypassed or missing, and/or the throttle stop, idle air bypass screw, and TPS are improperly adjusted. Also, if you still have the wrong model (automatic transmission type) of TPS on the car; I would not expect it to be able to run properly until that part was replaced.
I also want to point out that the air temperature sensor in the air filter assembly must be plugged in to the wiring harness; even if the air filter assembly is not being used at the time. If the IAT sensor is not plugged in, the engine will run way too rich.
The best source for this part would be an auto wrecking yard. When I lived in Florida, there were two auto wreckers I used to use for Geo Metro parts. One was in Bradenton, and was called Pick Your Part (or something similar). The other was in Saint Cloud; called St. Cloud Auto Wreckers. I expect that this part would be the same on many different years of Metros; perhaps going as far back as 1989.
The fact that there was 2 or 3 ounces of fuel in the can is not at all convincing. The proper way to test it is to have someone watch the end of the hose while you crank the engine. These should be a strong stream of fuel that shoots out of the hose. I would expect it to be strong enough to easily squirt a distance of 5 feet horizontally. It is the fuel PRESSURE, as well as the volume, which is important here. Since you don't have a pressure gauge, seeing how far the stream will carry horizontally is the best way to gauge the condition of the pump and filter. If it just runs out; but won't squirt a good distance; that suggests the filter is probably restricted. And that can prevent the engine from starting.
The ignition timing is checked by connecting a timing light to the plug wire for # 1 cylinder (the cylinder closest to the fan belt); and disconnecting and plugging the vacuum hoses to BOTH vacuum advance diaphragms (on engines with vacuum advance distributors). Only on XFI models, and later Metro models which do not have vacuum advance; it is necessary to short the appropriate terminals in the check connector, which is located next to the firewall on the drivers side of the engine compartment, in the corner where the firewall meets the inner fender, in order to check and adjust the timing. The emission label on the underside of the hood will have the necessary instructions for this procedure.
After applying the instructions in the above paragraph; with the engine idling at normal operating temperature, shine the timing light on the lower crankshaft pulley, and the adjacent timing scale built into the timing belt cover. The scale reads from 0 degrees BTDC (on the right edge) to 20 degrees BTDC (on the left edge). Each line on the scale indicates 2 degrees. There is a small notch in the edge of the pulley closest to the engine; which should line up with the the 6 degree BTDC mark (the third line to the left of the zero line). If the notch is not easily visible; mark it with white or yellow chalk. If the mark is not aligned with the 6 degree line; loosen the two 12mm distributor hold down bolts enough to permit the distributor to be rotated, and turn the distributor until the marks line up at the desired location. Then tighten the distributor bolts and recheck the timing.
If the engine still pings excessively at 6 degrees advance; try retarding the timing closer to the 0 mark. It will also help if you use premium fuel.
the side and top. This dries out because of weather and the smog. I found mine
at a dealership in las vegas of all places. The Drivers side window obviously gets the
most wear.
I bought my metro used about a year ago. Of course when the guy sold it to me it ran just great. Still does, but about half the time when I start her up she squeals real loud, enough to send all the cats in the neighborhood running! It usually stops squealing after I drive for about 2 to 10 minutes. I have had the alternator and water pump belts changed last autumn and it seemed to help for awhile. The old ones were all ground up. The engine block it seems to have a small oil leak right above the first spark plug on the left side, which I have to add oil about once a month (maybe about 1/2 qt.)
The A/C has been taken out of the car before I got it, so that is a non-problem. Anyone have any ideas what this squealing could be?
The only satisfactory solution is to thoroughly clean the oil and debris off the pulleys, use only a Goodyear Gatorback belt; and to tighten it to the point where the slipping stops. You can expect the belt to stretch and need readjustment during the first month or so of use; but it should settle down after that. Be aware that there are THREE mounting bolts for the alternator (two on the bottom, and one on top). If someone does not tighten ALL of those bolts, the alternator will wiggle in its mounts and then will work loose.
If the oil leak you refer to is located underneath the oil filler cap (which would be on the left side of the engine if viewed from the driver's seat) then it probably comes from not wiping the oil off the engine and the underside of the cap before putting the cap back on; and/or not tightening the oil cap adequately. If the leak is on the left side of the engine when viewed from the front; then the valve cover gasket should be removed, the engine mating surface thoroughly cleaned, and the new gasket sealed properly with gray formula RTV silicone gasket sealer before installation.
Been working on the car. Replaced new plugs as you recommended and gapped them as you said. Replaced distributor cap & rotor, replaced plug and coil wires, replaced coil. It has a new timing belt. Took off the timing cover and checked timing marks-all line up good. Have a new battery. Getting good fuel flow-not the fuel pump or a clogged filter.
The spark being generated is not blue/white- it's yellowish, but it's getting to the plugs.
Checked the fuel injector for gas. It is working, but If I am correct-the injector is supposed to generate a "conical mist" of fuel flow into the throttle body. Mine squirts out fuel-it's not a mist, and I pulled one of the plugs and cranked the engine...well, fuel just squirted right out of the cylinder-pushed out by the compression. I've never seen this before.
Well, could it be spark or fuel. Based upon this new info....what do you think.
Thank you very much for any help you can provide.
I may have said this before; but I need to mention it again: If you ever remove the lower half of the air filter assembly, do not try to start the motor unless the wiring harness plug is attached to the inlet air temperature sensor in the air filter housing. If you try to run the motor with that electrical plug disconnected; the fuel injector will put way too much fuel into the motor, and it will immediately flood.
It sounds like you're on the right track, but from the information you provided, I still can't tell if it is spark or fuel. However, you might be able to further zero in on the situation with the following test:
Buy an aerosol can of starting fluid. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump. Disconnect the coil wire from the distributor cap, and clip the end of the wire onto a grounded object. Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine for 15 seconds with the accelerator pedal held all the way down. Then let the engine sit with the plugs out for an hour or more. This should clear out all remaining traces of flooding.
Reconnect the coil wire to the distributor cap. Make sure the plugs are clean and dry. If they are not clean and dry; burn off any moisture or deposits with the flame from a propane torch (which you may have to buy if you don't already have one). Reinstall the plugs in the engine and reconnect the plug wires. Do not put the fuel pump fuse back in.
With the air filter lid off, spray starting fluid into the air horn of the throttle body for one full second; and then immediately get in the car and try to start the motor. It obviously won't run this way; but what I want to find out is if it fires at all. If it fires, the problem is most likely a bad fuel injector. If it doesn't fire at all, the problem is most likely in the ignition.
OK, I sprayed starter fluid as you suggested but the car still will not start. I have replaced: plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor, cap and timing belt. Took off the valve cover to make sure the timing was correct. The engine is perfectly timed. Seems that fuel is not the answer. Thinking it is spark related.
I am thinking that the ignition control module may be the problem. It's supposed to be on the firewall-driver's side, near the shock tower. I looked all over there. The only things I can see are the silver finned resistor, something for the fan motor, the coil itself but no ignition module. I looked on the Rock Auto site and got a picture of the module. I can't find it anywhere on the firewall. Do you know where else it may be?
The ignition module on your car is integrated with the distributor pick up coil; in a single unit which is variously called "Distributor Pole Piece Assembly" or "Distributor Ignition Pickup." Rock Auto apparently doesn't realize that those two items are really the same part, so they listed them under two separate headings. They do a lot of that.
I'm willing to bet you that the module section of that unit is good; but the pick up coil is defective. I've never yet seen a defective Metro module; but I've repeatedly found bad pickup coils. Not that this distinction matters; since both items are replaced as a single unit. But in the later Chevy Metro models with 1.3 liter, 4 cylinder motors; they are located in separate housings.
The ignition pickup on your car is located inside the distributor cap. It is mounted with two screws, and has a permanently attached lead wire which passes through the distributor body in a grommet which can be lifted out of its slot when the whole unit is removed.
Since this unit is usually extremely reliable, and a new one costs about $80; I would consider it quite appropriate to get a used one from a wrecking yard. The unit in your car was used on all 1993-1997 Geo Metros with either 3 or 4 cylinder engines. It was also used on all Chevy Metros with 3 cylinder engines; from 1998-2000. But it was not used on any 4 cylinder Chevy Metros; and was not used on 3 cylinder Geo Metros before 1993.
If you find a local wrecking yard like Pick-N-Pull, or any yard that allows small parts to be removed from distributors; you should be able to remove this part yourself, and expect to pay a tiny fraction of its new cost. Some yards that do not allow removal of small parts will still sell you a complete distributor for about half of the cost of a new ignition pickup. Just be sure the pickup has lead wires that are uninterrupted, with no other terminals on them; all the way out to the white plug on the outside of the distributor.
The air gap between the pickup coil and the toothed trigger wheel must be adjusted when the pickup is installed. I would suggest turning the engine until the tip of one of the 3 projections on the trigger wheel (on the shaft below the rotor) is opposite the metal rib in the center of the black plastic part of the pick up unit, and measuring the gap between the tip of the projection and the pick up. It should be something like .012". If the gap is messed up; just set the new gap to.012". A clean business card can be used for this purpose, if you don't have a feeler gauge.
If the engine then runs (don't forget to reinstall the fuel pump fuse); it would also be a good idea to recheck the timing with a timing light.
I'll follow your advice.
Do you know if there is an online source where I could obtain a wiring diagram for the ignition switch for 1993 Geo Metro 3 cylinder-1 liter?
Here are the two major online sources. I tend to prefer the first one; but obviously some people don't.
http://www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
http://www.alldata.com/downloads/pdfs/prod_sheets/ad_repair_overview.pdf
I also want to add that it should not be necessary to have a wiring diagram unless you want to see if some parts are not connected properly. If you just intend to replace parts; they are simply plugged in to the harness, and the plugs only connect one way, so it is pretty foolproof.
In addition, you could test parts and thus determine whether or not they really need to be replaced; if you only had a digital volt/ohmmeter ($20-$30 at Radio Shack). And that meter would quickly pay for itself in savings on parts you'd find did not need to be replaced. Without a meter; you'll pretty much be guessing about what to do. And this is where the manuals can be very helpful; because they have detailed, step by step test procedures for ALL the major parts (and nearly all of these tests require a digital voltmeter).
I also want to mention that you can find full wiring diagrams for your car in many public libraries, where they can be photocopied for ten cents a page. The Geo factory service manual or the Mitchell Electrical systems manual are the two best sources; but even a Haynes service manual for the Metro (the entire manual which costs around $20 or so) can be bought new at many auto parts stores, and has some good diagrams (and photos) of the parts and systems you're dealing with. And many county libraries can order manuals from their central headquarters, if they don't have the one you need on hand.
But nevertheless, every once in a while, an idea comes to mind. I just received one of those ideas: There are really just three electrical parts on your model car which are likely to cause a weak spark: They are the coil, the ignition switch, and the distributor pick up unit.
Although the coil has already been replaced; if the two smaller wires were incorrectly connected to the opposite terminals; the car could then become very hard to start. I'm not 100% sure of the color code; but I believe the red wire should go to the coil terminal marked "+" or "batt", with the brown wire going to the "-" or "dist" terminal. If the wires are not now connected to those terminals, it would be well worth exchanging their positions. But even if the wires are already connected to those termiinals; it still might be worth exchanging their positions. That would be a long shot; but there is no downside; it either will work, or not work.
If this doesn't fix the starting problem, then in view of the previous problems you have had with the car continuing to run when the key was shut off; it seems almost certain that the contacts in the ignition switch, which have been sticking together and not separating when the key was turned off while the battery was low, have developed extremely high resistance (which would make the spark much weaker than normal). So I believe the likelihood of the ignition switch causing the starting problem is much greater than the likelihood of it being caused by the distributor pick up unit. I should have realized this at the time I recommended replacing the distributor pick up; but at the time, I lost sight of the problems you had been having with the ignition switch.
Metros have a unique current sensing circuit in the computer connected across the ignition supply wiring; which will shut down the spark if someone tries to jumper across the ignition switch. Because of this anti theft feature; it is not possible to make the motor run by bypassing the ignition switch. So if you were thinking of using the information from a wiring diagram to figure out how to bypass the ignition switch; forget it: IT WILL NOT WORK. I have found this out from personal experience with my own car.
Again, I apologize for not mentioning this sooner. But it sometimes takes me time to zero in on what is going on.
The bottom line is that I believe you are going to have to bite the bullet and replace the $200 ignition switch. On any other vehicle; I would rebel against this outrage, and just install a generic switch or relay to replace the ignition switch. But the design of the Metro ignition system and its undefeatable computerized anti theft feature makes this option unusable here.
Do I have to get that part from Rock Auto, or can I get it here locally from Autozone, Checker Auto, etc.
Also, if you don't want to, you don't have to go to the trouble of taking the steering column apart to install the new switch. Instead, you can simply plug the new switch into the harness plugs, and tie it up somewhere under the dashboard. In that instance; you would still use the current key to lock and unlock the steering wheel; but there would be a new key for the ignition switch.
So, if you can find a Chevy dealer who has not gone out of business, and who can confirm that the correct part is either in stock or is currently available through their warehouse; you might (but not always) be able to get it for a better price.
I just had another inspiration about a way around your problem: Although it is not possible to bypass the ignition switch with a jumper, it may be possible to power the coil and the ignition system from one of the other circuits in your existing switch. The ignition switch usually has multiple independent sets of contacts in it; some are just used for accessories, and would still be in relatively good condition. They would be easily capable of supplying the required amount of power. My thought is to find an accessory circuit underneath the hood that can be tapped into; and test it on my car to see if it can substitute for the normal ignition circuit. I used to do this kind of asset reallocation all the time on old Chevys; when an ignition switch went out.
I don't know for sure whether this will work on a Metro; but I'm willing to check it out and give you the details, if it turns out to be viable. But I first need to know whether the information would still be useful to you. So please let me know. Thanks!
Thank you. Yes, this info on the ignition switch would be appreciated.
You'll need an electrical plug which fits into the lighter socket. If you already have one which is expendable; just cut the other end of the cord off of whatever device it now goes to. You can also buy a new plug at Radio Shack. They have a plug that comes with 2 or 3 feet of wire attached to it, and nothing on the other end. That item is carried under their part # 273-1818.
You will also need a length of stranded, 14 or 16 gauge, single conductor electrical wire; which is long enough to reach from the cigarette lighter, through the firewall, to the coil. A ten foot length should be more than adequate. Radio Shack probably sells rolls of that wire; but a good hardware store will probably sell it in bulk (so you can buy only as much as you need; rather than having to buy a whole roll). Sometimes short lengths of wire in pre-packaged rolls is shockingly expensive; compared to the cost of the same type of wire in bulk. You can also use two conductor wire, if it is more readily obtainable; and just tie both conductors together. But you CANNOT tie the wires from the plug together. Only one of those wires will work; and if you either tie those two plug wires together, or use the wrong wire from the plug, it could potentally DAMAGE parts or blow fuses. So please heed the instructions below about identifying the right wire from the plug.
Similarly, the wire from the plug will have to be spliced to the length of wire you buy. The professional way to splice wire is to strip the insulation off the ends, solder them together, and insulate the joint with heat shrink tubing. But that requires soldering equipment, shrink tubing, and a heat gun. A less expensive, but still acceptable way to splice wire is to strip the two ends and use wire nuts to securely twist them together. Wire nuts are made to fit different wire sizes. They cost about five to fifteen cents apiece. A third way to splice wire is to use a butt splice connector. This is a double ended metal connector encased in a plastic insulating sleeve. The ends of the wires are stripped and inserted into the ends of the connector. The connector is then securely crimped onto the wire. This creates a secure, insulated joint. Butt splice connectors cost less than a dollar (at least they ought to).
The plug for the cigarette lighter socket will have two wires coming from it. One of those wires comes from the pin in the center of the plug's nose. That is the hot wire; which is the one you should connect to the long wire you buy. The other wire from the plug comes from the contacts on the side of the plug body. That is the ground wire; which should not be connected to anything. It probably will not be apparent from looking at the plug which wire is the hot one. If you have a test light or meter; you can connect one lead from the light or meter to a known good ground, and the other lead to each of the wires from the plug in succession; while the key is on and the plug is inserted in the socket. The wire that lights the light or shows voltage on the meter is the hot wire. If you don't have a test light or a meter; the nice clerk at Radio Shack may be willing to demonstrate one of their meters by setting the meter to the resistance scale; connecting one meter lead to the pin at the center of the plug's nose, and touching the other meter lead to each of the two wires from the plug. The wire that produces a reading of continuity (zero ohms resistance) with the center pin is the hot wire. The ground wire will read infinite resistance. You should promptly tie a knot in the hot wire, or wrap a piece of tape around it; so it cannot be mistaken later.
The best place to run the wire through the firewall is where the speedometer cable passes through the firewall, in the center of a large rubber grommet. The speedometer cable is located just to the left of, and a little lower than the brake fluid reservoir; when looking at the firewall while standing in front of the car. It is easy to poke a screwdriver through the soft grommet alongside the cable. That will open up a channel where the wire can be fed through. I recommend feeding the wire through the firewall from the engine compartment side; rather than trying to reach the grommet from underneath the dashboard. If you keep feeding the wire through the grommet; it will eventually become visible inside the car. Then you can grab it and pull in to the desired location. If this arrangement becomes a permanent part of the car, I would recommend using plastic wire ties to secure the wire so that it doesn't get tangled in feet or moving parts.
After connecting the wire in the passenger compartment to the hot wire from the cigarette lighter plug, pull the excess length back into the engine compartment. Then run the wire over to the igniton coil and cut it to a length where it reaches easily, but isn't so long that it is awkward. Some time ago, I suggested that you try reversing the positions of the two wires on the coil. If you haven't yet put them back where they originally were; this is the time to do so. Similarly, the fuel pump fuse should now be in place. The spark plugs which previously had the gap reduced to .030" should now either be regapped to .040" or replaced with the previous set of E3 plugs.
The new wire you have run to the coil should be connected on top of the original wire at the coil "+" terminal. The best way to do this is to connect and crimp a ring terminal to the stripped end of the new wire. However, if someone previously connected the wires backwards to the coil; adding the new wire on top of the wrong "+" wire could cause damage or blow a fuse. If you have any concern that this may have happened; one way to verify the wire positions is that if one of the original wires is heavier than the other, the heavier wire should be the "+" wire. If both wires are the same diameter, you could check the color code against a wiring diagram; or tell me which color wire goes to which terminal. Better to be safe than sorry.
Thank you. You have put a lot of time into my problems. I really appreciate it.
I'll give you an update.
The ones online have either no pipe on either end, or have way-too-long pipes on one end that curve and don't have the bolt-on. Plus, the converters themselves are more rounded rectangular blocks than cylinders. Am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve in Florida
Steve in Florida
1996 Metro G10 runs perfectly, EXCEPT.....
Idle surges under electrical load such as blower fan or headlights.
Idle jumps up to 2000 RPM and drops to 1500 Rpm about once a second for 8 or 10 cycles, then returns to normal idle until the throttle is opened even slightly- then repeats. It does this when driving whenever the pedal is slacked off during deceleration, resulting in a rather unnerving pulsation, as if one was tapping on the accelerator pedal.
Troubleshooting charts don't seem to address this adequately, so if someone can steer me in the right direction I would be very grateful.
TIA
But it may take several tries to get it zeroed in to where it runs best.
Before attempting to adjust the TPS; the igntion timing should be set to 6 degrees BTDC with a timing light; while the check connector terminals are shorted as described in the manufacturer's instructions. And the spark plug gap should be set to .042"
I hope this helps!!
I thought I might have found the root of all evil: I set the timing, and was tinkering with the TPS when I glnced down and saw the timing move a couple degrees. As the diagnostic connector was jumpered, I got very suspicious- on probing the ground terminal, I found NO ground. Backprobed the wire and got good ground.
Fine! I cut the wires and twisted them together: lo and behold! the timing was sitting at 1 BTC, not the six I had set it at. It appears that I have been running retarded forever! Gaaahhh! Hope I didn't burn another valve....
I tried setting the TPS with a feeler, etc, but it would not start or run cold- kept tinkering until I found a spot midrange (richer) that would allow it to start and idle, but it still dies when given any throttle, unless I let it warm up for two or three minutes.
I drove 45 miles, and the ECU set a code of P0123: TPS Switch A Circuit High Input. Checked the input from the ECU, and it is a steady 5V, like it should be. Cleared the code put in a new battery, and am anxiously awaiting tomorrow's trip to see if the new battery helps any. (okay, but sometimes a straw is just what you need to grasp...)
I'm going to find a shady spot and do some backprobing in the harness.
The coolant sensor has been replaced, and doesn't seem to be the culprit, even though it certainly appears that temperature is the determining factor.