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The firing order on that distributor runs COUNTERCLOCKWISE; with the #1 wire located at about 12 o'clock on the cap, and # 1 cylinder being the one closest to the timing belt. If you read the firing order on the cap clockwise from #1; it should be 1-2-3. If that is not the problem; I would change the distributor cap and rotor.
Joel
But if the CPS is not the answer, then I would go through the ignition and electrical system; looking for potential sources of low voltage. The most likely items to check would be:
Plugs partially fouled, or gaps set too wide; or side electrode, series gap, or surface gap plug being used (all of which would create an excessively high ignition voltage requirement).
Alternator output low or non-existent
Battery condition and connections
Ignition switch has excessive resistance
Ignition coil primary connections possibly reversed
Distributor pick up coil air gap set too wide
Ignition module defective
I hope this helps!!!
I'm now looking at fuel injection- NOT cool. When cold, the manifold is quite wet, a mirror down in the TB does not show anything I would call a spray pattern. I replaced the injector with no change- I think it is not the problem.
A Noid does not flash when Ignition is turned on, and a test lamp connected to battery and the Yellow/Black wire on the Injector Connector does not flash.
Swapped ECM- no change.
At this very moment I am re doing the ECM grounds (thinking of running a parallel wire from battery to grounds on manifold, as well as under the dash), and checking the injection control circuit at the ECM harness- appears to be open.
I'll keep you posted- it would be really nice to finally solve the problem that has been plaguing me since April.....
So I hooked up the altenator and when I connected the ground to the battery I snapped the big yellow 60 amp fuse sitting next to the battery. I disconnected the big altenator wire, thinking it might be shorted out, but when testing with test light it didn't go on. The test light comes on when I touched the altenator because it is grounded. I got a new fuse and with the battery ground connected I touched the big altenator wire to the altenator connection and a big spark and another $2.99 fuse burned. I pulled off the altenator thinking maybe it's shorted out and took it to the shop where it tested OK. Am I stupid and missing something here? Thanks in advance for help. Eric
Make sure when the mechanic replaces it that he pays particular attention to the seal. He must not slam the tranny in place.
It happened to me and oil was leaking onto the clutch with the effect that the engine was revving at 5000 and the car not moving.
good luck of course in finding this irritant.
I had the entire clutch assembly changed out about a year ago. The clutch feels solid and I have no leaks. This noise is actually amplified in the shifter - kind of a light rattle or jingling. If I hold the shifter to one side it goes away.
I'm curious about the Geo synthetic gear oil you mentioned: Is that sold by Chevy dealers? In the US or just in Canada? And what is the brand and viscosity?
I saw this ad.It was a 97 metro they were selling it for 1995$.It still has a good paint from the picture.
I will have a look at it.
The noise is like a metal rattling sound when the engine is running. It sounds over near the belts, so the pass side of the car. I listen sloser to the engine and it sounds within right near the belts.I noticed something sounded funny weeks ago but now the sound is much louder.
Ideas?
Please help,
The Jungle
The ECM on these vehicles is far less likely to fail than just about any other part on the car; so I would set that concern aside unless it is later conclusively proved.
There is also another fuse block under the dashboard. If you haven't already done so; I would pull and test each fuse in that block with an ohmmeter (because fuses can go open but still look good to the eye). I have also seen Metro fuse blocks develop internal open circuits; so you might check whether there is power at each fuse. Remember that some fuses are wired to only be hot when the key is on.
But back to the starting problem: The way to simplify starting problems is to first determine whether the problem comes from lack of spark, fuel, or compression. A compression problem could be caused by the timing belt breaking or jumping out of sync. If the timing belt broke; it would also shut down the spark. So the easiest way to begin would be to remove the distributor cap, crank the starter, and see whether the distributor rotor turns. If the rotor spins at a steady pace; then the timing belt has not broken; but it still may have jumped out of sync. The next thing to do is to turn the crankshaft pulley until the timing mark lines up with the 6 degree BTDC mark on the degree scale on the timing cover. Then take another look at the distributor rotor; the rotor tip should point either straight up; or straight down. If the rotor points anywhere else (even by a small amount) then the timing belt has jumped out of position. Incidentally, a jumped or broken timing belt will also make the starter spin faster than normal; and the engine will sound different than usual while cranking.
If the above test did not locate the source of the problem; the next thing to do is to check for spark. The proper way to do this is to borrow one of the plug wires from the distributor cap, and temporarily plug it into the coil. Insert a clean spark plug into the plug boot on that wire, and clamp or tape the spark plug so that its threads rest on the metal of the engine block (or on another metal surface which you know is electrically grounded to the engine.) When you crank the engine; there should be a steady series of blue/white sparks between the plug electrodes. If there are no sparks, or the sparks are yellow or faint; measure the resistance of the plug wire. There should be less than 1,000 ohms resistance for each inch of wire length. Be sure to contact the metal terminals at both ends of the wire with the meter probes. If the coil wire, or any plug wire has excessive resistance; replace the entire wire set.
If you are still not getting sparks in the above test; then either the coil, the ignition module, or the distributor pick up unit is defective. The distributor pick up unit is more likely to cause this problem than either of the other parts. Here's a test you can do to check the distributor pick up: Get a known good 1.5 volt flashlight battery (either AA, AAA, C, or D cell) and two 4" to 6" lengths of 14 to 18 gauge electrical wire with the insulation stripped back 3/8" from each end. Remove the distributor cap, and find the ignition module inside the distributor. It is the part with the wire that goes out through the side of the distributor and ends at a white harness plug. The module also has two screw terminals on it; to which the wires from the pick up unit attach.(On 1990 Metros built for the Canadian market, the ignition module will be mounted on the firewall near the coil.)
Leave the plug wire and spark plug connected to the coil as it was for the spark test. Turn on the ignition switch to the position where the dashboard warning lights come on. Then hold or firmly tape one end of each length of electrical wire so it is pressed against an end of the battery, and briefly touch the other ends of the wires to the two screw terminals on the module. There should be a spark at the spark plug each time you touch the wires to the screws. If you were not getting sparks before, but this test produces sparks; then the pick up coil is defective. The way to run this test on Canadian vehicles is to disconnect the harness plug next to the distributor; and with the key on, briefly touch the two flashlight battery wires to the terminals in the plug section which goes to the firewall. If at first you don't get sparks in this test; try reversing the position of the two flashlight battery wires.
If there is still no spark in this test; the ignition module is probably defective.
If you get sparks from the tests; and the motor cranks but still doesn't start; the problem is in the electric fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or fuel pump fuse. Another possibility might be that the distributor cap is either cracked or carbon tracked; or that the distributor rotor is internally shorted to ground.
I thought something is wrong with the alternator because she said the car died on her a stop since this noise appeared. at our last oil change was told that belt is cracked but i figured a belt wouldn't make a metal rattling sound. but with that belt being bad, could that be causing something running on that belt to be making that metal rattling noise?
From the compression test results, it is not just one bad cylinder. ALL of the cylinders are below specs (stock compression pressure is 195psi). But judging from the excellent mileage you were recently getting; I doubt the motor wore out suddenly. Instead, it sounds highly likely that the valves have become coated with deposits from the use of cheap fuel. And these deposits are making the valves stick in their guides and not seat consistently; which drops the compression pressures. So, before you tear into the engine, I would strongly recommend buying a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system and combustion chamber cleaner; and adding the whole bottle to the gas tank just before filling the tank with fuel. If you have caught it early enough, this miracle product may save you a whole bunch of money and labor. Please do not use a different brand. This is the most effective cleaner available. It usually takes 50 to 75 miles of driving for this product to clean out the deposits. If it brings the compression up, I would suggest using only high quality branded fuel (Chevron, Texaco, or Shell), to reduce the likelihood that this problem will repeat. If you are using NGK spark plugs; I would also replace then with Autolite #63 spark plugs, gapped @ .042".
Unless you have evidence to the contrary, I would be surprised if the rings, bearings or oil pump need replacement at this mileage. If the compression does not come up after the Techron cleaning, I would just have the head rebuilt. Please note that there is a huge difference in the quality of machine work done by different shops; and all too much of it is substandard. So I would go out of my way to use a machine shop that is known for doing premium quality work on high performance engines. A production head remanufacturer may or may not do good work.
If you have good reason to want to replace the rings; I would suggest first checking the cylinder bores for taper. If the bore taper is out of specs; then a set of new rings will not do the job. Also, by the time the rings on a Japanese motor need replacing; the ring grooves in the pistons will usually have become worn to the point that compression will leak past the rings through the grooves. That is why piston replacement (and possibly reboring the cylinders) is often necessary in order to recover original engine performance.
If that level of work was necessary, I personally would exchange the motor for a high quality remanufactured motor from Hiperformer Engines, in Spokane Washington. They provide a 7 year, 100,000 mile warranty on their motors; and have the lowest return rate in the industry. They are the exclusive supplier of remanufactured motors for the NAPA auto parts chain; but they also sell directly to the public, at astonishingly low prices. Their Geo Metro long blocks cost around $1,300 plus shipping. And they ship anywhere in the US at very low prices. Check out their website at www.hiperformer.com
If you take the car to a mechanic; describe the noise and tell them that you hear it coming from the passenger side of the motor, but you don't know where the source is. Ask them to replace the belt (preferably with a Goodyear Gatorback, if available) and suggest that they check the alternator and water pump pulleys for free rotation and excessive side play while the belt is off; to see whether either of them are the source of the noise. Before removing the old belt; the mechanic should also be able to use a stethescope or a wooden rod (such as a broom handle) while the motor is running, to touch the housing (not the pulley!!!) of each part while pressing their ear against the other end of the stick. That should make it obvious where the noise is coming from. Come to think of it; you could also do that yourself, to see if you can find the source, before taking the car in. All rotating objects on the motor will produce some amount and type of noise; but what you should look for is an object that produces substantially more noise than any other part. Just be careful to not let the stick become entangled in the moving belt.
If neither the belt, the alternator, nor the water pump is causing the noise; then the timing belt cover should be removed; in order to inspect the timing belt, the timing belt tensioner, and the idler pulley. I expect the source of the sound will be located by that time. And the timing belt should be replaced arbitrarily; if you do not know when it was last done; or if it has been more than 60,000 miles since the last replacement. I usually replace mine at 90,000; but if you already have opened the cover, it would be appropriate to do it then, even if it is a little early. Labor is expensive these days.
The studs have small "gaskets". Pull straight up. Hard. The new gasket kit will have new ones also.
CHANGE that valve cover for a 93 or 94. Your 91 has a smooth top, the later ones are ribbed. The "tube" in the back of it is placed differently and you will not aspirate as much oil fumes. This is one of the culprits of you using a lot of oil. Don't forget to also get that small hose it is different.
Hope that I was of help.
Have fun and don't give up on your little three banger.
Oh and Happy New Year to all !
If you have low compression below 50 psi on cyl. 1 - you got bad rings or bad exhaust valve.
If you want check the rings are OK on cyl.1, put few drops of engine oil in cyl. 1 and crank the engine few times. After that, check the compression. If compression go up, you got problem with rings.
If you will check compression, on each cylinder - crank the engine 8 times on each cylinder.
Personally, I will remove the engine and rebuild. Good engine with 120000 miles should build up 175/185 psi easy.
To remove the valve cover - remove the nuts first - all of them and also the small ones. After that gently "bump" the cover with rubber hammer on all sides around. Should come easy.
DO NOT FORCE.
Any questions?
But your motor has been smoking; which is NOT caused by sticking valves, and the compression is worse in your motor than it was in the other one. So I think it is much less likely that Techron will work here.
else could stop the back up lights not to work?
With this compression 30, 45, 160 - you have a compression problem. I forged ask you - if you turn the engine ( each cylinder) 8 times - you must press down the accelerator pedal to the floor. Full flow of the air.
Before opening the valve cover - please fill the tank with 94 octane gas and drive few days.
If is any carbon build up, the high octane fuel will slowly remove the carbon.
Please spray every day wd-40 0r good penetraiting oil on the small nuts on the top of the valve cover. This will help to remover the nuts.
Remember - you must unsrew the nuts. Make small sharp end scredriver ( very sharp point end) - used small hammer by bumping the crewdriver counterclockwise on the side of the nuts. You will slowly move the nuts - if you relase the tension - use players with long "nose" to uscrew completly. It is not a complicated job but - passion, dedication.
My wife was driving the car back and forth to work and one day it just started making the noise. Everything else is ok on the car. I pinpointed it to the alternator area checked the belt which wasn't loose at all & even sprayed some belt ease on it to no avail.One day i was driving in a rainstorm, and hit a big puddle and water got up in the engine compartment and all of the sudden the noise stopped! The car ran like it did before the noise started, which in this little car it's so quiet you cant even tell the motor is running . I called Autozone for an altenator and they want $ 125 bucks! with a $72 dollar core deposit! Can someone tell me if it's the altenator? or ?? cause if i dont get this repaired soon i think im going to take this car to the wrecking yard and have them crush it..it's really annoying... :mad:
Thank you all
metal. It will and has cracked, When it does the alternator is not aligned to the
engine and the belt whines. The fix replace that bracket get it from a Pick your
part place it is held on by 13 or 14 mm bolts two or three as I recall.
If you post a question here; you're going to get as many different answers as there are people who feel like answering your question. And, since none of us are fortune tellers or wizards; there's no way for you to determine which answer you receive is the right one. It's all a crap shoot. Don't expect to receive a magic answer here which will eliminate the need for a commercial mechanic. It just doesn't work that way. And many mechanics will resent you coming in and telling them that you have a better idea than they do. The appropriate purpose for this forum is to offer suggestions to people who are working on their own vehicles, and need some additional direction; or people who have been dealing with a shop which can't figure out the source of a particular problem. But neither of those seem to be what's going on in your case. I'd like to suggest that the most effective way to work with the people who answer your question here is to give them feedback by trying their suggestions and reporting whether they worked or not. When you don't offer any feedback on what has already been suggested; it gives me the sense that you're not interested in methodically working the problem out; but are just hoping to receive a magic answer that suddenly turns on a bright light and cuts through all the uncertainty. But that's not what it's like to repair automobiles in the real world. We professionals (and also the good amateurs) usually can only learn about the nature of a problem from repeated trial and error. And sometimes that can be very time consuming and frustrating. There's no free lunch in the world; not there, and not here either.
But, that said; if I had to guess about the one issue which would create both the noise and would eventually keep the car from starting; my guess would be that the timing belt has jumped or become damaged. But I sure wouldn't bet my own time or money that it isn't anything else...
Anyway found it to be the AC compressor. Removed the belt and runs like a top. Will worry about replacing the compressor when the weather warms up.
Anyone know if you can "test" an AC compressor? Probably will get one from a junk/wrecking yard due to cost of a new/rebuilt one at the parts stores.