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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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Comments

  • vantagemotorsvantagemotors Member Posts: 14
    I just replaced my clutch on my 99 a few weeks ago & noticed my pedal effort is slightly higher. I attribute it to the new pressure plate being newer & stiffer than my old worn plate. If you are trying to move the clutch lever by hand it would be very stiff compared to when using the foot pedal hooked up to the cable. What you are desribing seems normal. Don't forget to leave about an inch travel (at the pedal, not the lever).
  • dangerdudedangerdude Member Posts: 15
    Speedshift! I finally got aroound to my Metro shift bushing job! I found one in the local boneyard to "trian" on before starting. It was just as you described, accessable from inside. It was easy! I got those bushings and snap ring and hurried home and opened up MY console. DARN! My '99 had a totally different shift assembly! Why do they DO that?? Mine had to come out the bottom, (around the exhaust pipe) and the shift lever pivot ball had a plastic segmented cup that couldn't be tightened up easily. I ended up shimming the lever ball with a wrapping of greased up leather. THAT worked. It feels like a new car! Are we cheap or what! LOve My Metro even more now! DangerDude
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Good for you Danger Dude!
    As for I, well I spent my day yesterday sunday taking the train to Oshawa where the elderly owner of a pristine Geo Metro hatchback 94 with 40 000 miles on was waiting for me. Not greedy at all this gentleman had put it on ebay at a low buy it now price. It was on the site a mere hours and he was bombarded by 42 emails. I had to act fast and did. I am not disappointed one bit, no rust, everything dead stock! I will do the regular: cap, spark plugs, wire change AND change the brake fluid. Details. I drove it back a little further north than Montreal. It was purring at 110 km an hour the whole trip. The finest part is that Mastercard Citibank (Driver's Edge) is paying for it in totality, just like they did for Vanilla Latte, my convertible. You see they give you 2% on everything that you buy, up to $5000, towards the purchase of a car, new or used, from any country. I am not ashamed to put EVERYTHING on my card, it pays.
    With but 61 000Km on the odo, that stick shift is nice and stiff, in fact I doubt that this gentleman (who won an Oscar by the way) ever used 5th gear. As he changed the muffler recently, this means that the household used it for short convenience store trips. It was a third car....I'll put Vanilla's 13 inchers to replace those nervous 12 inch tires and look for a sway bar. Toodle dee doo.
  • keldarx1keldarx1 Member Posts: 6
    Just wondering if anyone could post the clutch disc thickness specs, new and/or worn out, from the service manual. I have a 91 metro, but I think it is the same for 88 to 98 metros. I am trying to decide whether to wait a week for the new clutch plate to get here or reuse one of the old ones. My engine blew up and the engine from the junk yard came with a clutch disc. That disc is almost the same thickness as my disc. I wasnt having any clutch problems. my current thickness is 7mm.
  • mimetromimetro Member Posts: 2
    my Chilton's manual doesn't list a plate thickness. It simply says replace the clutch when the rivet heads are .02/inch below the surface. Hope that helps.
  • suppleesupplee Member Posts: 5
    Chiltons says that I need to jumper pin D & E on the 6 pin diagnostic connector on my 97 3 cyl. Metro
    To time the motor but they give no clue as to which pins are D & E . Does any one know which of these pins are D & E?
    pin 1 pin 2 pin 3

    pin 4 pin 5 pin 6

    pin 1 purple, pin 2 purple/green, pin 3 black, pin 4 no wire, pin 5 blue/white, pin 6 no wire.

    Does any one have a good source for oxygen sensors were one does not have to mortgage the home stead To buy one? Dan
  • keldarx1keldarx1 Member Posts: 6
    thanks for the info, I couldnt find the thickness from anyone so I decided to just pop it back in. Its my
    only registered car so I need it working. I ordered
    the manual and clutch plate from partsamerica.com and
    its taking forever for them to get here. Eta is like
    11 oct...

    I finally got the engine all back in there and the starter wont work for some reason. There was only one bolt on connection to the starter as I recall. Seems like there
    should be a few connections there but I couldnt find any
    thing else to hook up to it.

    Any info on timing it would be good too. This engine didnt have the head off so I think it might not need to be timed.
  • suppleesupplee Member Posts: 5
    there is a 1/4" spade terminal on the starter that has to be connected to the wire that operates the solenoid
  • keldarx1keldarx1 Member Posts: 6
    Yeah, i found that.

    Then i had no spark, i guess the dist from the new engine(from a 95) doesnt work the same as the my old one. i popped the old one on and got a spark. Always something.

    I dont get any hits so I guess its prob just a
    timing issue at this point. Unless I got a crap engine :0
    I might test the compression tomorrow along with trying to time it. As for timing, seems like there is a setting for the injection pump and the distributor.

    I do have a 30 day return guarantee on this junkyard engine, not that i want to take it back out. :)
  • keldarx1keldarx1 Member Posts: 6
    well i tested the compression, 165 180 165, so not too bad.
    Looks like the problem is with the fuel. I dumped some gas down its gullet and it fired pretty good.

    Trying to look underneath for stuff,I saw a leak coming from the rear of the vehicle.
    I then had to pull the gas tank out to get to the leaking lines. Also, it appears the fuel filter is ancient and may have been clogged. One more ride to town and I might have it going :)
  • keldarx1keldarx1 Member Posts: 6
    So any thoughts on a nonfunctional fuel pump, is there a kill switch(like rollover inertia) somewhere?

    I replaced the fuel lines by dropping the tank and now the pump doesnt come on.
    I tried swapping in the inj relay to the fuel pump relay so i dont think its the relay. unless both relays went bad.

    It seems to have voltage at the relay so i dont think its the computer. I think I have to drop the fuel tank again to directly apply voltage to the fuel pump. I hooked up a inline fuel pump I had lying around and it didnt get the car to start. Prob doesnt generate enough pressure, but It did bring the fuel to the front of the vehicle though.

    I thought for sure i would be driving by nowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww :)
  • keldarx1keldarx1 Member Posts: 6
    It seems it may be a computer problem. I wired the fuel pump up directly so that functions. Still no start though, no power to the injector. I noticed the check engine light isnt coming on when you turn on the ignition. So I am thinking the computer is not working...
  • dangerdudedangerdude Member Posts: 15
    Dear Fellow Metro Pilots & mechanics .. Since my 1999 Metro came to me in a rather distressed state (beat up, scratched, scraped, dirty & dented) I intend to make it sparkle like new again. It's already there operationally and mechanically. Now it's time for the cosmetics! Wooo Hooo!!! I've learned the paint code info is on the cardboard under the rear carpet.. naturally mine was missing. The cardboard replacement from the bone yard came out of a green donor Metro, (poor little thing). Does anybody know the GM paint code for the 1999 Metro silver color?? Thanks everyone .. Please don't make me resort to a gallon of latex, a roller and a six pack! Subsonic DangerDude, low level Metro reconasance pilot.
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    well danger dude, there are 33 odd pages on Teamswift describing a very inexpensive and durable method of painting with....a small roller and Tremclad (Rustoleum) It is worth getting that 6 pack and reading it. I'm sold on it!In fact I bought a pint of Tremclad for my latest acquisition: Espresso Nero.Needs touch up underneath before treating her with waxy oil.

    By the way, for all you convertible owners, Good news! It's a go, I am going to make a hard top for those little cabriolets. The design objectives are: easily removable by one person, use of existing componants if possible,lightweight, and fair price. I will keep you posted. Any comments or suggestions are more than welcome.Thank you, Vanilla Latte.
  • dgl43dgl43 Member Posts: 1
    Have it ready to remove from can't figure out how to get it out. Do I have to take apart something else? Any ideas? Thanks
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    Hello. If you can describe what you will sell to the "hard top" convertible , what is this? What kind existing components? Mark
    pipesbac@aol.com
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    I am in the plug making stage of fabricating IN NORTH AMERICA a easily removable hardtop for the Metro-Sprint-Firefly.
    Design objectives: lightweight, easily removable and install by one person,
    use of existing components and low cost.
    This eliminates curved rear window.
    Options could be: heated rear glass though.
    On another site, Teamswift, many suggestions have been made, including farming the project out of America. This I will not do.
  • dangerdudedangerdude Member Posts: 15
    Dear DGL43 .. I feel your frustration! I had to take my alternator in & out about five times HOWEVER! Ya get good at it eventually. It's a real tight fit too. One hand holds the alternator one hand holds the wire harness out of the way and at this point a miracle ought to occur as the alternator is too large for the resulting opening anyway. I had to twist and turn the alternator and stretch the wire harness but it can be done if you use the right vocabulary. Of course the air cleaner is on the garage floor already. If you have a 12 MM socket and a beer you can do it. Be patient .. it's worth it in the end! DangerDude
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    Please let me know when you will be done to sell the hard top. This will be made from fiberglass or another form of plastic? Where you will get the sealing arount the top?
    I would like purchase 2 tops. Let me know.
    Send email to : pipesbac@aol.com
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    Why is so difficult remove the alternator? Firts disconect the battery and disconnect the wires from alternator.
    It is simple and easy. Remove the srew on the top, jack the car up and remove the lower 2 bolts from plastic cover, remove the long bolt and remove the alternator. New belt will be nice. If you drink beer, will take you longer and few scratches on the hand. Do not drink when you work. Danger. Pipeman
  • dangerdudedangerdude Member Posts: 15
    Dear Pipeman, thanks for the dialog, My Metro now needs me to beautify it's sheetmetal. Dimples and scratches. You have any experience doing light bodywork? I think lots of sandpaper,some Bondo and a paint job should result in a real showpiece! I just replaced the windshield wiper shafts (in the cowl) The plastic housings wore out. That was truly easy (no beer required) I brew my own beer so occasionally I must do a quality check on THAT hobby. Just trying to be "efficiant" ya know. Beautiful thing about the Metro is you only have to do a job once and things stay fixed, not like an old MG! DangerDude
  • randydriverrandydriver Member Posts: 262
    If I remember right for those two years the top of the line model got the the compostie headlight and the base got the sealed beam.
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    I'm not sure by your definition - body work on my metro - if it is very bad, you will have problem to finish perfect surface for paint. Any bondo, fiberglass, will need lot of sending, priming. I will not waist my time for fix-up. Just drive and enjoy the fuel economy. Look for another Geo before 1995 ( Personally I do not like after 1995 and up) and find perfect body, original paint, higher millage, or low millage. More easy is to rebuild engine or trans, that body work. I got 2 geo's 1991 Convert. with 44000 miles and 1994 with 148000. Body is perfect. Look around, ebay, Trading times around USA. I'm sure, we will hit $ 3.55 or more for gallon of gas. You will have fun watch everybody pay so much, for driving so little. My cost miles per value of vehicle is coming to $ 0.01 to $ 0.03 per mile.
    Please accept my apology for making joke about the beer and working on cars, but how you will pay respect to the car, the car will pay you back this same way.
    Do not use bondo, better some fiberglass or fiber filler. More work, but better effect for longer time. Bondo hold water.
    Good luck. Any questions, let men know.
    Mark the pipeman
  • m564agm564ag Member Posts: 15
    Hi I am new to this but have been reading these for a while. I have a 1994 metro 2 door 1.0 5speed I am getting 35mpg out of her this is a all around avg. I have been told that this is low and want to know how to get the most out of her she is stock with 140,000 miles on her. I want the get up and go plus the mileage I have been playing with the timing to try to get there but with no real luck. so where would the the timing be set to get the best of both worlds. or what else can be done to this at a cheap price. Thanks Mike
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Hi there!
    I also have a 94 2 door hatch back.
    Start by changing plugs, wire and distributor cap. Check the air in the tires. Change the fuel and air filters. Verify that the idle is at 950RPM when it's warmed up...... Empty all the accumulated stuff in the rear.... Stuff like that.
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    If you drive in the city cycle, it is not bad. But if you drive 80% hway, you should get around 45-48 mpg.
    Let me know. Maybe we can help you. I have two geo's and I put 2 brand new engines - completly balances. My everage is aroung 48 mpg. Most is hway - 85%.
  • magicpsnmagicpsn Member Posts: 13
    Pipeman -

    Did you buy the engines already together or did you do the rebuild? My Geo has 213K Miles on it and it is starting to run a bit rough. I don't know if yours is the 3 or 4 cyl. Mine is the 3 cylinder one. Just trying to figure out if I should sell it or maybe just do a ring and valve job. Let me know what you did and at what cost (if you don't mind me asking).
  • m564agm564ag Member Posts: 15
    well Van I have had this car for a while and have change stuff and kept a good eye on the tires. but the best I have ever gotten was 42mpg with a good tail wind. I do drive about 60/40 hwy/city. Hwy speed 75mph avg now what I mean by city driving is about 50/50 rural/inner city. But is there a timing set mark where you get both the get up and go plus mpg the fact spec is not so good on the get up and go part -- car seams to take way to long to get up to speed and is a real dog when it comes to going up hill I do have it adv some now which seams to help I am missing something or is just the way these cars are.
  • m564agm564ag Member Posts: 15
    well pipeman I have had this car for a while and have change stuff and kept a good eye on the tires. but the best I have ever gotton was 42mpg with a good tail wind. I do drive about 60/40 hwy/city. Hwy speed 75mph avg now what I mean by city driving is about 50/50 rurel/innercity. But is there a timming set mark where you get both the get up and go plus mpg the fact spec is not so good on the get up and go part -- car seams to take way to long to get up to speed and is a real dog when it comes to going up hill I do have it adv some now which seams to help I am missing something or is just the way these cars are.
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    I redone the engine by my self. Both engine 3 cyl. : the 1991 after rebuild registered on cold engine compression: 214, 208, 204. The engine # 2 -1994 also 3 cyl. registered
    208, 204, 199 psi. The first engine I assembled with very close tolerances on rings ( 1 compr, + 2 oil rings.
    The pistons and the conrods/wristpin where registered at 675 gramms (3). The second engine was assembled with more open tolerances on rings with pistons and conrods/wristpin 670 gramms.
    Both cyl. heads intake ports and exhaust ports where polished and where also opened in the inlet and the exhaust manif. was opened in the inlets.
    If you need more info, please let me know. I checked the compression on one engine 1991 after 10000 miles. The second has only 4000 miles.
    The 1994 with 143.000 miles lost oil pressure and I replaced the oil pump, pressure valve, but didn't help. I found later the camshaft bearings was gone. The second engine was low on compression #2 with 145 psi. I decide rebuild the engine completly. The 1991 Covert, has only 36000 miles, when I change the engine.
    If uyour engine run poorly,please check the compression. IF is aroung 160-190 psi, you have a problem with the EGR. Remove the exhasut manifold, intake manifold and clean the
    opening in the cyl. head and also in the exhaust manifold, check also the intake flow. Remove the bolts from the exhaust site and replaced with studs. Works much better when you will assembled the engine.
    I always play with my cars and my work. Usually my engines afyter rebuilding registered over 180.000 miles, with proper maintenance.
    If the body is good, first check the front suspension, the lower control arm attached to the unitbody ( lower frame) is not rust, I will redo the engine or cyl. head.
    Do not make any short cuts. If you think do valve job, rings , you can redo all engine at ones. More easy.
    I'm planning use my Geo's next 20 years. I drive daily over 120 miles to work.
    Also in good weather I drive my BMW 524 TD with 230.000 miles at 35 MPG.
    Any questions, let me know. I like help people. American people help me here 25 years ago, when I escaped Poland.
    God bless USA and Americans.
    Thanks.
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    If you get 42 MPG in 50/50 driving it is very good. Honda and Toyota can't dupliacte this. You paid for the vehicle few hundrats dollars, but the "smart buyers" paid over 20.000 and get this same millage.
    With the timing marks - watch out for set up. Is different before 1992 and after 1993 up.
    What yer is your car?
    YOu shuold't pump more than 28 psi in the tires. You will shake to much the car, if you have more pressure. All car will vibrate on higher tire pressure. I use 13" tires.
    Before 1992 the sepc are 10 BTDC, but after 1993 July up, the timing is only 5 BTDC, but you must lock the timing on plastic plug ( bridge two outlets with wire).
  • photofinishronphotofinishron Member Posts: 1
    Hey, I'm new here, hope someone can give me an answer.

    I have a 91 Geo metro, Car runs great but has hesitant acceleration at speed. If it were a carburated car I'd say the accelerator pump was not working. But since this is EFI I'm lost. Anyone have this same problem or know what is wrong?

    Many Thanks

    Ron
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Could be a number of things: spark (did you change the plugs recently?), catalyzer could be plugged up...
  • magicpsnmagicpsn Member Posts: 13
    Pipeman -

    Thanks for the ideas and recommendations, I'll have to check the compression when I get a chance and take it from there.

    Thanks again!!
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    Hello. Personally, I belive the catalyst only work on cold start ups. After engine is in normal operating temp. cat. converter is unnessesery item..
    What I did - remove the Catal. Converter, cut of the front pipe and I cleaned the converter inside. Removed all "honey nest". Installed back and never have any problem. My OX. sensor work better, no more back pressure, better mpg.
    Passed emission - easy. Just do not mention about that.
    Pipeman
  • vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Well.....it's not legal really, we are well aware of that. BUT you get better gas mileage, thus you are more efficient, therefore you pollute less......
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    THis is only suggestion - I idi for on reasen - save a money on new cata. converter and also improove mpg.
    Didn't damage the World.
  • geometro91geometro91 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1991 Geo Metro 2 door hatchback that I'm fixing up for a commuter. I've already done considerable work to the car. I've heard about the problems with the EGR. In addition to replacing or cleaning out the EGR do I need to pull the intake and/or exhaust manifolds and clean out the passages? If so, how do I determine where those passages are? My shop manual isn't very clear on this.

    Thanks

    GeoMetro91
  • pipemanpipeman Member Posts: 58
    First - remove the EGR valve and clean the egr valve. Next clean the connection from EGR to carburator. I used the pipe cleaner - you can purchase at any tobacco shop. Use the "sharp" not a soft cleaner. You can buy the short and long pieces. It is very cheap $ 1.00, 2.00.
    Second. Remove the exhaust manifold. After the exhaust manifold is out - clean very well the opening ( 1/2" dia.) accross the cyl.head. From the exhaust to the egr.
    Look at the exhuast minifold and you will see small hole running between the "exhaust collectors" 1 - 2 -3.
    The opening is less than 1/8" dia. Use the transmission fluis to clean the passages. Put the one site of the pipe cleaner to the transm. fliud and insert in every small hole. Must go thru. If is plugged, put more transm. fliud in the openong in leave for 15 min. and try push thru. If will not open the hole, use some sharp wire and push. By gental to nor brake the wire. Also you can use high pressure air to clean the passages.
    Replace all bolts with studs. Easy to work. Use grade 9 or 10 studs. Open the ehaust manifold inlets abut 45 degree angle , the flow will be easier. Before instaling the studs, retap the thread in the cyl. head with greas.
    Use copper grease to install the studs in the cyl. head.
    Any questions, let me know.
    Pipeman - visit my web www.bacartpipes.com
  • geometro91geometro91 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. We are talking about a 91 geo metro, right?
    No sure what you mean by opening up the inlets on the exhaust manifold. Are you talking about taking a die grinder to the manifold itself? If so how far back should the 45 degree bevel go?

    Thanks,

    geometro91
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    Yes - 45 degree angle. Firts - place the gasket and se how is alingement with the manifold.
    Also you can do 45 on cyl. head.
    How about those small holes in the EGR , you located that?
    If yo will look inside the exh. ports you will see small "pipe" on the bottom of the runners.
    Let me know.
  • randydriverrandydriver Member Posts: 262
    Could be the oxygen sensor....it cause my mileage in my old Suzuki Swift to fall from 36-39 down to 24. I was told that is the sign of an sensor going out is sudden bad mileage. I had it fixed and boom my mileage went back up.
  • deborahfdeborahf Member Posts: 15
    Hello
    I live in the state of NY. The weather has been rainy. I cannot start my car. I did get it started (finally)and let it run for about 5 minutes. I gave it some gas (while sitting)and it stalled. My check engine light did come on the other day but has shut off. Help!
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    Hi- I am in Maine- same weather- most likely a short in your hi-tension wires better known as spark plug wires or coil lead. Go to a autoparts store buy a spray can of WIRE DRY. spray it on each spark plug wire-follw the wires back to the round didtributor cap, then follow the 1 single wire to the coil, on the firewall- and soak the coil with wire dry. Make sure your battery is charged and not dead from cranking the engine- if so jump start it- try to start the engine......good chance it'll start up. IF this did the trick take your car to a mechanic, replace the HT wiring- if it does it again replace the coil. (thats pricey).. OK, well-hope it works for you !
    ;)
  • deborahfdeborahf Member Posts: 15
    Hello...p10leadman,
    Thank you so much. I still have yet to fix my problem. I will try this. Actually, my car has been sitting in the carport. Afraid to drive. Everything is very old on my car. Never changed spark plugs. Or wires. :( Never had enough cash to do so. Now I have a problem. I believe my gas tank probably needs to be replaced and whatever is inside it. I have a leak (gas)on the right side in the back of my car. My brother says my car is junk. Never had any problems. Always started for me. I bought it used. Have had it for, I don't know, maybe six years. Anything else you can tell me would be wonderful.
    Thanks...Deborah.
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    not knowing what part of the country you are in, makes a difference. Anyway these cars can be fairly durable. It seems that whne they do fall apart it's all at once...or maybe that's just my viewpoint. I have a 1995, a 1997,both 2 dr metro's...the 3rd is a 1996 Suzuki Swift (a Geo clone). I have one rolled over 1996 Geo Metro for parts, and that has saved me a ton of money !
    I am now trying to figure out how to replace a leaking heater core. Near as I can tell, it must be the first thing installed on the dash ! So, I flushed the system, added radiator sealer and new anti-freeze...maybe I can get away with that temporary fix another year.
    I think your problems are much less- and the fixes alot cheaper. If in fact the gas tank is leaking, a junkyard visit maybe in order... anew one will be around $99.oo + labor to install it. I never repair gas tanks.
    Is your car 3cyl, or 4 cyl, automatic, stnadard, does it have ac? 2 dr, 4 door?
    Good luck
    :):)
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    Ok, the 2 dr Geo Metro (97) has a leak- verified with gooo on the inside of the windshield and a disappear act of anti freeze in the radiator! I checked my repair manual(haynes) and dear gawd! You all but remove the roof- the dash comes totally out and all cables, radio, ect- then if you do get the plastic box out, you have to pry it apart- thats the easy part I guess. A practice run on myparts car proved it to be a monster job. So far I flushed the system, and added radiator sealer and new anti freeze- hope to get away with that- car has 116,000 miles on it- hardly broken in.
    OK THAT ALL SAID: anyone got a tip of how to replace it easier? Other than a dealer?
    :confuse:
  • deborahfdeborahf Member Posts: 15
    Hello leadman,

    My 94 Geo is a 3cyl, 2dr, standard, hatchback. No AC. Nothing fancy about it. Just your basic car. I have crawled under the rear of the car and there is (gas) slowly dripping out. I have a little puddle on the floor of my carport. Live in Rochester, NY.

    Thanks. I am new to this site.
  • stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    Hi Deborahf -

    I live in TX, so I guess it depends on why your gas tank is leaking. Rust is not a problem here, but backing over a rock was. I was able to have the hole in my gas tank repaired by a local shop that specializes in repairing gas tanks (and the repair was much cheaper than finding a gas tank for my '92 Metro convertible).

    If you have lots of rust on your tank, though, it wouldn't make sense to try to have it fixed - simply replace it with a rust-free one from a junk yard, as p1leadman suggested.

    Best,

    Stan
  • dangerdudedangerdude Member Posts: 15
    Dear fellow Metro drivers and maintainers, Here is's one for ya.. My Metro three banger is the sweetest fun car ever. I lavish love on it for recreation and therapy. My Metro (AKA Pipsqueak) and I are best friends .. however ..
    There is one thing that annoys me. On startup in the mornings, the one darn belt it has squeals like crazy. I've replaced the belt, tightened the belt, over tightened the belt, loostened the belt, sprayed the belt with belt stuff, it seems to come back every time. (??) I can stop it by turning of & re-starting the engine a few times until it starts quietly. Anybody else have this??? Thanks DangerDude
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