Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks

danf1 · May 2005

Thanks for the English description, literraly speaking. That makes sense.

phillbill · May 2005

No prob's. I no wot u mean, sumtimes u'll go to a garage and ask a mechanic how to change summit and u'll jus [non-permissible content removed] out more confused than u were before.
So im learning it's much easier (and cheaper hehe) to jus type into the search engine what you wanna do.....read a few pages and do it yrself.
Besides, there's no fun in just dropping your car off at the garage and gettin them to do all the hard graft!

phillbill · May 2005

Yeah....dont drive so close to the car in front. Then the stones that get flicked up by the tyres will hit the ground before hitting you....pluss you'll have a better stopping gap so will be less likley to crash your car!

But i no what you mean, the new Accents are about as streemlined as boxes on wheels lol
Which is why i prefere the shape of my 1999 accent to the new'ens....much smoother

phillbill · May 2005

Yeah it's not the best is it. when i got my suspension replaced with a sports package i looked under the car to look at my bright yellow springs to find one was upside down :mad: lol. But the garage sorted it out for me no porb's.

Speakin of brakes, im sure im gonna have to replace my pads soon, they've not bin done since the car was new, which is 59,000 miles (but theres still over 1/4 inch of meat left on em, and the rotor's are in pukka condition!).
Any tips for changing Accent pads?
Or is it litteraly as simple as unclipping the old pads, packing sum grease in, and clipping the new'ens back in....
Out of everything ive done, ive never done anything to do with the brakes before, so i just need a lil guidence of the best screws to undo basicly lol

accentpaul · May 2005

Step 1: Jack up car (duh) and take wheels off. For me, this took a couple trips to Autozone because the A--HOLES at Monro put the wrong sized bolt on the stud for the lugnut they had lost (hence my torque wrench was and still is useless... 13/16" lugs are hard to find).

Step 2: Undo top and bottom caliped bolts via socket wrench. Hit (lightly) the bolts with a hammer first to make them come off easier (before I did this, I was about to pop some veins).

Step 3: With these off, shimmy the caliper off the wheelbase/rotor assembly. There are two boltish looking things on the caliper assembly that run from side to side, but only one of them is an actual turning bolt. Undo that bolt and the caliper should be able to pivot on one side, so that you can twist one side wherever you please.

Step 4: After taking pressure off of the clips that hold the pads in there, knock them out of place with hammer (or what have you). There are small metal plates that should come off with the pads. Take these off the old pads and transfer them to the new ones before installing them.

Step 5: The C-clamp crap. I had nightmares about C-clamps the night before I changed my pads, but it's actually the simplest step. Insert the end of a C-clamp into the piston cup and with the holding end on the back of the piston, push the end of the cup flush with the edge of the calliper assembly. Take the C-clamp out.

Step 5: Put new greased pads in (much like puzzle peices) and put caliper back to its caliper shape. Put the caliper back on the wheelbase structure. Before making things real tight, I made sure the thing still spun without interference by spinning the axle.

Step 6: With car still on stands, I made sure the brakes worked by dumping the car in drive and pumping the brakes to watch the tires come to halt. I did this a few times. I don't know how you'd pull this off having a manual and all (if you can do the clutch and gas with your hands while down on your knees looking under the door at the wheels, you're my hero).

Step 6.5: Get car off stands, wash hands, and drive around.

Step 7: Drive around. Really fast.

The first set took me an hour, the second took me twenty minutes.
You can tap the rust off the rotors with hammer taps. It doesn't matter, but I'm a neatfreak and I don't want to blow it if the next time I'm on a date, the girl says "show me your rotors."

I got the $18 Duralast Pads. They work fine... I just tested it with a 75-10 'oh-crap-stop' on my street (a 30). They're good.

So...
Tools: socket wrench, hammer, C-clamp.
Time: now?' factor: Not too high. My parents, despite their laity in the automotive field, understood my explanation.

Sorry 'bout the rambling. Hope this serves you well.

davidinohio · May 2005

Greetings,
I have a 99 accent, standard transmission. I have had all the servies done, and now the vehicle has about 105k miles. THis week, I experienced various degrees of spark knock under acceleration and that combined with a lack of power.

I start te car, and during the first few miles, no problem. Then I begin to note the knocking, under acceleration only, and an intermittant but frequent hesitation at a constant speed of 60 to 65 mph.

I replaced the plug wires, one of them was nearly burnt through (originals) and the problem resolved itself for about 30 miles.

My son-in-law suggested replacing the fuel filter next.

Any thoughts from this group? Thanks in advance!

phillbill · May 2005

Sounds easy to me.....i'll probably give it a go sooner or later, save myself a few ££

When Jacking the car up, would you advise putting the jack under the k-member (big long thick metal thing that the engine's bolted to, which stops it droppin on the floor), gettin the whole of the front of the car up off the ground & gettin both jack stands on the go to support it (at the pionts on the side of the car where the jack normally goes)...or just do it one side at a time.....i do have a hydraullic jack, but its only small, about the same size as a can of pop.....it's not one of them nice big powerfull ones like at garages

I no...v.simple question for people who do it all the time....but i deal mainly with the electrical side of things, so never really have to jack the car up.

phillbill · May 2005

Could be a dodgey injector, this would mean the fuel mixture in the engine is wrong, which could cause 'pinking', that knocking sound you hear.
To resolve this knocking sound, modern cars have a 'knock' sensor....so when it hears the knock (pre-ignition / pinking) , the fuel mixture is automaticlly reduced for a tiny bit untill the engine stops knocking, then it goes back to normal...clever ehh...
But this cutting back on the fuel would be the reason for the lack of performance.

If one injector is playing up, the other three injectors have to suffer too, because fuel supply is reduced to all four, not just the bad one

If you think it may be an injector playing up, you could maybe invest in an Oscilloscope for about £10, from most army stores. With this piece of kit, you can probe into the wires going to each injector and look at the electrical supply. If one is playing up, then the electrical current will look different to the other three.

But still, all four injectors may be fine, it may be somthing else that's past its sell by date...its hard to home in on the problem when the car's not in front of you lol

davidinohio · May 2005

Thanks philbill!

My son-in-law suggested that the fuel filter might a problem too. Could it be the"knock sensor" that's out of whack? I forgot to mention, that sometimes the idle races to about 2000 rpm, then drifts back to normal. The cable isn't sticking, but I wonder if the two conditions are related.

phillbill · May 2005

Could be the fuel filter if it's not been changed for a while, every 4 years usually.
I doubt the knock sensor will have gone wrong, all it does is litterally pick up the sound that the engine makes when it pinks, sends the info back to the computer in your car, which then tells your injectors to deliver less fuel.

phillbill · May 2005

If the fuel filter needed replacing maybe sum gunk in the fuel made it to the injectors, clogging them up, which again could explain the problems you're having
So what you could do is buy a little bottle of injector cleaner, which you pour in your fuel tank when full, and it cleans while you drive.

Did it on mine, didnt get any better performance because my car's tickin over ok as it is, but my miles per gallon went up

davidinohio · May 2005

Phillbill,

Here is the final soplutin. I went ot a friend that has a meter that can read the computer codes. It showed that the Throttle Position Sensor had bad. We replaced the sensor, and hurray, that fixed it. Thanks for your help!

melba2004 · May 2005

I am thinking about buying a 2003 Hyundai Accent GL 4 door sedan. Does anyone have any advice for me? Are there any problems I should know about?

accentpaul · May 2005

I do it one side at a time by cranking it up w/ my stock scissor jack, then i lower it onto jack stands so that it rests the lip that runs the length of the car into the sattle of the stand.

after getting the front up, i knock the car around a bit (ferris beuller's day off style) to make sure it is secure. they advise againt this, but i like to know that its not topsy turvy before i get under there (you'll need to really get in there to get the calipers out).

jack stands are 30 bucks at most. i got mine a while ago, i dont recall the exact figure. theyre a must; i cant bench 1400 pounds. using just the stock jack is asking for trouble, especially when you are under the car. my uncle near lost his hand while rotating his tires with just a stock jack and some other improv tools.

accentpaul · May 2005

get the car, it's a solid vehicle. hyundai has come a long way in terms of reliability since their US debut in '86.

my only advise...
manual, manual, manual
get the manual

i just dont like the way the auto trans feels; it seems to behave erratically with temperature changes, which leads me to beleive it is going to go by 80k. control over the gears is key in the accent (ive driven many a stick accent, an absolute blast and a much more confident feel), otherwise with the auto it seems very lackadaisical.

phillbill · May 2005

Guess that would explain the erratic injection of fuel all the time

Dont always rely on them hand held computers that plug into your ECU tohugh, (assuming this is what you used), used some of them when training upto be an autoelectrician, it picked three sensors that it thought was dodgey.....but they were fine......then we disconnected the crank position sensor to see if it would notice.....nope lol.

I always think you're best using a voltemter and an ossiloscope personally, much more reliable long as you connect them upto the right places. Pluss it's a lot cheaper.

Anyway's, glad you got it sorted.

phillbill · May 2005

yeah already got a set, thought i'd need em when doin my 60,000 mile service, but i managed without gettin the car off the ground.

chocking the rear wheels....a couple of bricks do the trick you think? or go get some propper chocks?

lngtonge18 · May 2005

A couple of bricks will do fine. Under most circumstances, the bricks aren't even needed as long as the emergency brake is all the way up.

przeho · May 2005

I bought a 2001 Hyundai Accent GL and want to replace the door and rear speakers. No power windows, crank style. Is there any tricks of the trade as how to get the window crank handles off so I can get to the speakers? Any help about replacing the front door and rear speakers is appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul

accentpaul · May 2005

I tried to get the rotor screws off to match them so I could get screws to replace those that Monro did not put back on. They are already stripped. Any suggestions on getting them off?

I've heard that when the wheel assembly is put together, the screws don't do anything. Is this true?

Thanks.

Btw phillbill, yes, bricks will do (i actually prefer them over the plastic chocks i keep in the car for tire repair). Ingtone is right about not really needing them, but its always better to be on the safe side.

Free period > religion > 3 months of drunken stupor > college.

phillbill · May 2005

Rear speakers, easy!
Just undo the four screws holding them in (assuming the design is the same as my 1999 accent where they're either side of the rear shelf, not hidden behind any trim or anything), the speaker will come out, pull the old wires off, and bin the old speaker.
Now get your new speaker, connect the wires up (making sure the negative goes on negative, and positive on positive), screw it back in, and you're ready for some subwoofing sound

Now the front door pannel...caused me some grief when i had to replace my window regulator....but there's a nack!...

Get a thin flat head screw driver, push it down the side of your window winder, turn the handle, you may hear some clicking, then POP...a lil horse shoe clip will come off, so the window winder will jus pull off.

Now there's another tricky bit...the door handle, took me ages to figure this out...you undo all the screws (for me it was two in the big handle, two in the pannel near the hinge, and onw in the pull handle) also unscrew the plastic door lock, pull the door trim away from the door so as to un-pop all the lil clips, and now here's the trick, turn the trim though about 90 degrees, now you should be able to push the lil door handle through it's hole, bit of a sqeeze though.

Now unscrew the old speaker, bin it, and put the new speakin in as before. For me i had to make a wooden frame for the new speaker, (which took quite a while) as it had different mounting points.

Once the speakers in and connected, just put the trim back on, pop the lil clips in, put all the screws back in, and you're ready to put the window winder back on...just put the horse shoe clip back in the handle (u'll see where i mean) and push the handle back on, it should clip back into place. Screw the lil lock thing back on....and you now got a neat sound system to really annoy the neighbours with :mad: lol

przeho · May 2005

Thanks for the detailed info. I'll tackle this project over the weekend. It looks like it might take a while. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks again. There is always a trick of the trade! Your info should make the project a lot easier.
Paul

phillbill · May 2005

not all the time, but every now and then, when i'm going slowly in one of my gears, like 15mph in 3rd for example, i hear a small grinding noise coming from the drivers side of the engine bay (right hand drive car), could this be the CV joint worn out? It's the only obvious thing i would think of, but when it went on my sisters car it was more of a clicking sound when turning the car on full lock.
I've had a look at the CV joint...but cant see any obvious signs of wear.

The sound goes away again once the engine speed picks up. It also seems to slow down (got a lil bit of a rythem to this grind lol) as the wheel speed slows down...

I changed the gear oil as scheduled about 2 months ago with Castrol SMX-s, as instructed by my manual, engine oil's been drained flushed & re-filled recently along with the filter, so i doubt it's to do with poor lubrication of major engine / gear components.

Sounds like one of them sounds that comes about when a components tryin to say "i got a good few 1000 miles in me still, but i'm gettin tired, and when i pop im gonna make a real mess...so you better replace me now!" lol

So any help on what could need replacing given the symptoms would be usefull...thanks

geerage · May 2005

My tail lamps are just not coming on. Niether when my lights are on nor when I depress the brake pedal. The third brake light still works when I hit the brakes though.

I have a 2001 Accent GS Hatchback I have changed out the bulbs, relay and fuse
still nothing.

Any guesses?

phillbill · May 2005

On my 1999 Accent, i can see three fuses to do with the rear brake lights / side lights.

There's the main fuse, in the fuse box that's in the drivers side of the cabin, then there's two other fuses, one for each bulb. On my car these are in the relay box in the engine compartment. Try changing these two, you may have been unlucky and had both of them blow at the same time....good luck....near me police are stopping people and handing out heavy fines for faulty bulbs etc.

paul02 · May 2005

Does anyone know about which factory head units can swap between years? I have a 2002 Accent with a cassette player and would just like a factory CD player in its place.
Thanks.

geerage · May 2005

Thanks, but I tried changing the bulbs, fuses AND replaced the relay with an OEM one. still nothing I am really nervous about getting pulled over cause I am broke!!

lakeside · May 2005

My alternator went over the weekend on my 2000 Accent (3 door, auto, 1.5) and I'm debating whether to buy a new alternator or a used one. The car has 248,000km/154,000 miles, mostly highway, and for the most part it's been good to me. I've keep all my service records and have a detailed summary record in Excel. Besides the usual maintenace (tires, brakes, belts, plugs etc), the problems I've had have been mainly electrical, like air flow sensors and diodes. I had a coil replaced a month ago after I lost power while driving. This weekend I was driving near home and lost power while driving again but had enough juice to get home. Got a boost and drove the car down to the garage where they say the alternator is shot. Should I bother buying a new alternator and risk it making the rest of the engine work harder or go for a used one as am leaning on getting a new vehicle in the summer/fall.

phillbill · May 2005

First of all actually make sure the alternater is actually bust if yr gonna replace it...there's a technical test we use in car ellectronics called 'the wriggle test'....just locate the wires coming off the alternater and give them a quick wriggle, somtimes it's simply a case of a wire that's become loose over time, or a bit of muck that's got lodged between the connections...see, i warned you it was a very technical procedure...

If this is no use, i'd go for the replacement alternator, i dont think it'll make a difference if it's old or new when you think about what it is, it's just a big spinning magnet that cuts through three coils of wire to produce a current. As long as the unit works, a new one should cause no more strain on the engine than an older one. If you're fiting it yourself, which you may as well, i replaced one on an escort within 45min. (luckily there were no extra pullys for power steering, air con etc, was nice and simple like on my 1999 accent

, i know someone who works for Subaru, it's a whole different story with modern performance cars, takes ages, the fan belt snakes half way round the engine bay via various pullys lol)

You just gotta make sure the belt is at the right tension, which i can't remember off the top of my head, but it'll be in your car manual, or a hyundai accent haynes manual. Too loose and it'll slip, sounding like a squeeling cat, too tight and it may cause some strain....hope that answers yr question?

benricks · May 2005

Does any one have info. on miles per gallon on the new 06 ACCENT? Should be improved with the new CVT engine.

phillbill · May 2005

For lakeside who's alternator's packed in on his 2000 Accent...

If you dont fancy spending up to £250 (if you go to your dealer thats probably what theyll charge, however there are places that will sell some makes of alternator off for just over £20 if you know where to go) on a new alternator you could do some fault finding

Remove the alternator by loosening the long bolt that you see as you look down on top of it, until the belt is slack. Unplug the leads coming off the alternator, unscrew the remaining bolts holding it on, and the alternator should come off.

Now get a marker pen, and draw a line down the side of the alternator, this will allow you to line the two halves of the alternator up the right way round when putting it back together. Because some alternators are universal, and can be put back together two ways, so that they can fit on an engine where it fits on the front, or on the back.

Remove the regulator, this is a small, almost rectangular, about one inch by two inches big device, it regulates voltage at 14.5V. Just undo the small bolts holding it on, unplug the lead, and slide it out, you should see two brushes: rectangular rods of copper. Now, (a) check theyre both there and are the same length (b) make sure theyre in good condition (c) make sure you can push them in easily and that they repel back out fast. It may just be this that needs replacing.

Regulators okthen dig deeperthere should be three large screws holding the top half of the alternator on (the half that doesnt connect to the fan belt), they stretch the length of the alternator. Take the nuts off these, and the nut that holds the wire down thats connected to the rectifier, a device which turns the AC current into DC, inside the alternator. This should now pull off to reveal the Stator (lots of colourful windings of copper wire, green on my Accent), the rectifier, which looks like two or three layers of plastic with many electrical components welded together on it with three copper wires coming out of it at the base, and the rotor, more copper windings which act as an electromagnet. The magnetic force gets amplified by those teeth like steel structures surrounding the rotor.

Now check the actual bearing pack on the cover youve removed, on most alternators, if this needs replacing you can get a load of grease, put it in where the bearings are, get a chunky rod of metal that's a flush fits, get a hammer and hit the rod of metal down, the pressure build up pops the bearing pack out.

Now look at the two rings which the brushes brush against on the rotor. They should be smooth and perfectly circular.
If not, this can usually be pulled off and replaced.

If there is lots of scorching / burning on the rings, it is showing that the brushes are bust, theyre not moving in and out fast enough, causing sparks which leads up to build ups of impurities on the brushes and rings. Dont just give it a polish and put it back together like they might do down your local garage which will give you only a few 1000 more miles of happy motoring, replace the brush unit and the copper rings (slip rings) if they're bably damaged, the brush pack should separate from the regulator, depending on make. Otherwise the whole regulator needs to be replaced.

You wont get these parts from your local auto store, youll need to go to a specialist.

Well hopefully this will have sorted your alternator out, these are the easy to diagnose faults, and these little parts, like a bearing pack are only like £5, rather than a few hundred for a new alternator. However, this is just the tip of the ice burg when testing alternators.

I can go into how you can test individual diodes in the rectifier pack, test for voltage leakage from the stator windings and the rotor, continuity in all the wires & windings, but this involves unsoldering parts and getting into a bit of a mess if its your first time at anything like this, especially when soldering near diodes, they dont like heat! Just ask and Ill tell you the tricks of the trade though.

Putting it back together, do the exact reverse of taking it apart, remembering to align up the two halves, and making sure you slide the regulator in last, after the cover's been bolted back on, or youll snap youre bushes off if you screw it back onto the cover before putting the two halves back together.

Put it back on the car in the same way it came off, and using the big long bolt, tighten the belt up to the correct tightness.oh and re connect the wires going to the alternatoralways helpful

If youre thinking of taking it off in the first place and looking for the fault, then you should really know how to test the individual electrical components, which I will happily dive into. Even though it takes a lot of explaining, the tests are all very simple to do and can be done within half hour. However if youre planning on spending £70 or so getting your alternator serviced by specialist, or putting a new one in then I may as well shut up here.
Word of warning though, Ive never taken off and replaced the alternator on my Accent, only done it on a ford escort while studying vehicle electronics at college, and Ive only ever stripped down an alternator from a Mercedes, so I can only guarantee that what Ive said in this message is correct for those makes and models, the procedure may be slightly different for Accents, but it should be pretty much the same.

phillbill · May 2005

Geerage, you could try some fault finding on your brake light system...

Cant really think of any other components in the brake light / side light system that could be faulty, because the actual brake light switch must be working if your middle brake light still comes on, only thing left are the actual wires and connections...unless the more modern Accent is all posh with multi plex wires...gets kinda tricky then

If youre not planning on spending a fortune at a garage getting someone to tell you theres a loose wire, check it out for yourself. If you havent got a multimeter, I would advise you to get one, theyre only about £15 second hand.

Start off at the bulb, check the filaments are ok. Now check the connections, they look nice and clean yeah, nothing in the plug looks bent, or snapped off, or corroded? If it all looks good, stick the negative terminal of the mulitmeter to earth, any part of the car body where theres bare metal, dig it in and scrape around a bit to get a clean connection to earth. Put the positive lead on the feed to the bulb...Making sure the side light switch is on, and the brake pedal is depressed to activate the circuit. You may want to borrow the Hyundai Accent Haynes manual from the library so that you know what colour wires are the brake and side light feeds, under the wiring diagram section of the book. If theres no current reaching the block that connects to the light cluster, then go further back. This is where knowing what colour wire youre after is useful. Now you simply follow the wire back to the battery, checking for current reaching each component in the circuit, eg. Fuse or relay or switch. You will soon find where theres a loose wire or a bad connection.

Hhhmm..if only it was that simple, on my 1999 accent all the wires to the back of my car are hidden behind the trim. When wanting to make a neat job of the wiring to my new rear speakers I had to make a right mess of the inside of my car, removing trim panels etc.

If Ive not explained summit clearly or u wanna no summit else to do with the light circuit on your accent, let me know n ill try ma best to help you, and anyone else with a similar problem out.

phillbill · May 2005

Thought all units were universal, i mean i've now got a CD player in my car that came out of a Suzuki (the model of Suzuki that's trying to look like a 4x4, cant remember it's name), the only thing you may need to play around with is the trim to remove the unit and to make it look pretty!

I know on my dads old Xsara, about one inch of the head unit was hidden behind trim, and you wouldn't be able to remove the old unit without taking the dash board off i don't think.

But no, i think all sterio's are the same size, weather they're radios, tape or CD players. Just gotta play around with the trim.

geerage · May 2005

Thanks a lot man, I kind of figured that was what I would have to do, I guess I was just in denial. This project will take some time and it's 112°f (44°c) during the day here. Sounds like midnight by the streetlight it is!! Seriously appreciate the help, your explanation was quite clear.

phillbill · May 2005

No prob's, just make sure if you do do it yourself, that if you use a voltmeter that it's turned on to Direct Current (DC) mode rather than Alternating (AC), somtimes catched people out.

Dont know if you've used these voltmeters before, if not heres some guidence.

Voltage is the electrical pressure in a circuit, (a battery produces a voltage in the same way that water has the potential to flow down a pipe cuz of gravity if it's connected to a resevoir up in the air) before starting voltage tests, check the battery Voltage, click your multimeter onto voltmeter mode (never put an ammeter accross a battery, or accross a component in a circuit, always put them in seris with the circuit, otherwise you'll frazzle your multimeter & possible damage the circuit) and put the black wire on negative terminal and red one on possitive, for a fully charged battery you should get between 12.6 and 13.2 volts.....not 12V, it is flat if it has gone down to 12V, many people think 12V is fully charged....WRONG!

lets say you got a battery voltage of 12.9V, in a working circuit, the voltmeter will read 12.9V in every part of the circuit up untill the component (bulb in this case), where it will drop down to 0V while the circuit is turned on....if it is the only component in the circuit, which it will most likley be in a brake / side light circuit, so may as well keep this simple.

If the voltage drops before the component, for example if the voltmeter read 12.1 V when you got the red lead just after a part in the circuit where there are two wires joined together, and the black wire on an earth, then it would suggest that join is faulty and needs looking at.

When connecting the black to earth, make sure it is well into the metal, any paint or dirt or grease will act as an insulator.

100356syl · May 2005

MY 2000 HUYNDAI ACCENT BURNS TO MUCH OIL I AM PUTTING OIL IN EVERY WEEK BESIDES THAT WHEN I AM DRIVING MY CAR WILL PULL BACK WHY IS THAT

phillbill · May 2005

Firstly, make sure that you're using the right grade of oil, for my 1999 hyundai accent i use Semi Synthetic 15W 40, i've had no problems with that. Just check in you're owners manual.

Then get under your car and check for leaks, the oil filter may be loose, so if it's dripping from your oil filter tighten it up. Or is it's not been changed for more than a year, change you're filter, the rubber gasket may be perished that seals it flush to you're engine.
I managed to change my oil filter without having to drain the oil, but have a large pan ready for any oil that may drain out with removal of the filter.....if it needs changing.
Or it may be the sump nut that's loose and needs tightening, the nut that you remove when draining the oil.

Could be you're rings that are worn out, letting more oil than there should be to leak into the engine and get burnt. Is there blue smoke coming out of your exhaust?

Oil gets burnt in the the engine naturally, every time youre engine turns over some oil gets pumped in to lubricate the pistons so they can move up and down easily, there's always some oil left in the engine chambers, hence some oil will get burnt naturally in a 'healthy' engine. Upto one litre every 1,500 miles is ok, but saying that my car gets through nothing like that, about 3/4 litre a year.

Hope that's some help!

jackson33 · June 2005

I have done some research on the 06 Accent and I can tell you that the mileage should considerably improve. IMO I would expect 33 City, 38 Hwy at this time. More acurate figures should come soon.

The pictures of the new Accent look pretty sweet for an entry level vehicle. I am also not aware of another sub-compact with 6 standard airbags. They say the price will remain close to the same but I figure it will go up just a bit.

Now some of you may go up in arms over a price increase but why wouldn't you wanna pay just a little bit more for a much improved entry level vehicle.

Hyundai is on the right track, faster than most really. Are you gonna catch the train?

accentpaul · June 2005

Question about the 2005 Accent--

Does the GLS with base package come with a tach and a clock yet?

I'm budgeting to finance a new '05 next year (when the dealers will want to push them) and I just wanted to know if the '05 base models still have that "cell phone pouch."

Let me know... thanks.

beliver · June 2005

Paul: The base car is not dubbed "GLS", Just plain ole' Accent, at least that's the way it was when I got my 2005 GT. The mid level cars (GL) are equipped with a tach and a clock. Upgrade "extras" are groups or packages for power windows, locks etc. IMHO a stick GT with power option is a great deal, at just about $12,500 MSRP before any incentives or dealer discounts . Log onto "fitzgerald Auto Mall. com to see typical out the door prices from their stores on the east coast in Maryland and Penna.

Believer

muffin_man · June 2005

What research did you do to obtain this mileage?

jackson33 · June 2005

I stated that mileage as an opinion. Those numbers are not that far off from the current numbers of the current 5 speed manual tranny Accents. Those are 28 city and 33 hwy. With the new engine they are introducing, I would believe that these numbers are more than capable. The new 2.4 Sonata has about a 5mpg change from the last gen 4 cyl. Sonata.

Like I said before, the mileage was stated as an opinion "IMO". Sorry for any confusion on that.

muffin_man · June 2005

I think it would be great if the next Accent hit that mileage, I thought you might have some inside info that we don't. 33/38 would be Civic mileage, which would be excellent.

accent01 · June 2005

Hello!

Please, I need some advice.
I own an 2001 Hyundai Acent 1.3, 75 HP, 5 gear manual shift. My mileage is about 50000, and haven't expirienced any troubles untill now. Fuel economy is great and car runs smoothley. My problem is: I have changed engne oil and oil filter 5 days ago and checked the air filter but didn't replace it. I have also managed to spill some il o the engine block. After that I drove abot 50 miles when jellow check light went on. Gas cap was tight. I have checked spark plugs, they are all tight. Car still runs smoothley, :confuse: only thing I noticed is that when the engine starts it turns on 1500 RPM untill it worms up a little. I went to service and they adviced me to exchange the air flow sensor mentioning that this was common problem on Hyundai engines. In the mean :confuse: time the light perished. Should I listen to them or does anyone have any ideas...

phillbill · June 2005

hhhmmm....funny warning lights...the first thing i would always check is for loose wires, you dont wanna get all yr bits n bobs changed in the engine area only to find out one of your sensor leads wasnt plugged in properly.

you got the one sensor going to your air box....another going to the throttle (the door which opens when you put your foot down, about 15cm up from the air box), another which detects the position of your pistons, located on top of the gear box where its bolted onto the engine, you got the lambda sensor coming off the exaust manifold straight out of the engine, i might have missed one.....anyway, just make sure they're on tight, give them a lil wiggle.

If one of these were loose it would explain the 1500 rpm, becuase the ECU wouldnt be getting all the info it needs to make the engine tick over @ 100% efficiency from a cold start.

The lil oil spill, i doubt that will have done any harm...was a bit clumbsy with my engine coolant once, no harm done...

I've heard that the air flow sensor goes wrong a lot on subaru impreza's too....if it is that that needs doing, don't let the dudes at the garage change it unless you want your wallet emptied, i wouldn't purchase it from a hyundai dealer either.

Eg, i needed a track end rod for my accent, it cost £36 to buy from the Hyundai garage, and they'd charge over £60 to fit it.....got one from an independant car parts dealer for £11, and it was only a case of cracking two nuts off to fit it....saving of £85

will be the same with the air sensor, will be ever so easy to replace if you look at how it's fitted in...hope this post is some help

rconway · June 2005

Hi all,

I am the current owner of a '98 Hyundai Accent 2 Dr 5Sp. It's been bar none, the best car I have ever owned, even if it is a wee bit underpowered. The car has 270K KM's on it, and still going strong (I bought it brand new from the dealership). My question is, does anybody know where I can find a detailed engine diagram for this car? I'm hoping to replace the O Rings and one of the gaskets where there is some seepage, to try and curb the oil burning that the car is going through right now. I figure if I've gone as far as I have without having to do any major maintenance (I've only ever had to replace the Ignition Coil and Water Pump, and the radiator when the heat shield broke away from my manifold and punctured the rad core), that it's time to do some preventative maintenance, hoping to get another 60K out of it. So far, I've got 4 brand new BF Goodrich Tires, new brakes front and rear, new sway bar link kits, and getting ready to install new rear struts and front ball joints. Any help finding a diagram so I know which gasket it is that I have to replace would be great.

Thanks

jmcclafferty · June 2005

Just replaced the motor in a 2000 Accent & a few days later the cooling fans both stoped working. Cannot find any bad fuses or relays. Where can wiring diagrams be found?

jmcclafferty · June 2005

Update on fans, I did some tracing & located a blown fuse for the ECU 1. As soon as I turn the key on, it blows instantly. I tried pulling out all the A/C & fan relays & unplugging the wiring from the fans & themo sensor & it still blows. Where else does this ECU fuse feed power so I know where to check. I'm waiting for some wiring diagrams to arrive.

phillbill · June 2005

For wheel lug nuts there's a torque specification for them, to get them just the right tightness...is it important to get these spot on? or do they just need to be on nice and tight so they don't come loose. I havn't got a torque wrench unfortunatley.
Planning on rotating my tyres you see...

Aslo...anyone know where i can get my hands on the tracking data for my 1999 Hyundai Accent 1.3i that's been lowered 30mm? I'm toing in on the front and toing out on the back wheels a bit....the bloke at the garage said i'd have to run my car on a roller to find out it's tracking info now the suspension's been set up differently...

smokey75 · June 2005

If you don't get them tight enough I guess it's obvious what could happen. Too tight & you can warp your rotors or break the wheel lug, but I think it would be hard to do this by hand. Usually this happens with an impact wrench. The most important thing is to tighten them in a star pattern alternating sides.

Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks

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