Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks

phillbill · July 2005

I know fuel tanks have a ventilation point to allow for expansion of fuel etc. Which would account for a small loss of fuel, but i left my car standing for a week, when i got in it i found the fuel level had gone down by about 5-8 litres (guessing from the amount the needle moved, about half a centimetre towards empty).

Wasn't due to parking on a hill, which would make all the fuel go to one side of the tank, giving some funny readings, because i've driven it since and the needle hasn't gone back up.

Happened when i went on holiday last year too.
Passed it's MOT...and im sure they check the fuel tank / system for leaks to pass it.

There's no smell of petrol from under the car.

It's a 1.3 manual, petrol injection.

Any ideas?

beliver · July 2005

phill: Check your next door neighbor's garage & see if that bloke has a LONG hose and some jerry cans out there. LOL !!

believer

vthuppil · July 2005

I bought my 2000 Hyundai Accent in February when it had 49,950 miles on it. The brakes were shuddering, so I checked it out and I had to get the brake pads and rotors replaced.

In about five months time, I've added roughly 10,000 miles to it. My brakes were making a horrible squealing noise, so I had them checked out. My mechanic said my pads and rotors were worn out again, and I paid almost another $300 to replace them.

Now I'm not a slow braker. I usually brake hard and fast (a habit I've changed since I got hit with this $300 fee), so I'm not surprised that my brake pads were worn out.

However, my brakes didn't shudder like when I first bought the car. So my question is this, did my rotors genuinely need to be changed or did the mechanic see an opportunity to make money off of me and change them anyway. Because brake pads themselves shouldn't cost more than $100, right?

Also, when I bought my car, the dealer said he had replaced the front two tires but not the rear ones, which were in good shape still. They still have a fair bit of tread on them, but the same mechanic advised me that they are cracked and just old (which is quite likely) and that I would be well advised to replace them. These are the rear tires. Does this sound right to any of you? if the tires haven't been replaced since the car was new, meaning four or five years, would it warrant a replacement even if there is tread left?

I'm planning on taking an 800 mile round trip to Upstate New York and a 2000 mile round trip to Chicago in the coming months, so I'll probably follow his advice, just wanted some other opinions.

Also what tires are good? I'm looking at the Michelin and Bridgestone ones in the $60-$70 range.

vthuppil · July 2005

Jerry can and a hose? Sounds like the culprit to me. Five to eight liters is roundabout two gallons of fuel. Since there's no gasoline smells from under the car and no gasoline stains beneath it (as I'm sure you've already checked), the only non-theft explanation is that it has evaporated. Two gallons of fuel will not evaporate through a leaky tube, and without spilling.

This may seem like a dumb question, but was your gas tank cap closed and was it closed tight? Otherwise it may have evaporated from there. I guess you live in the UK, so I'm not sure how gas tanks there are designed. Here in the US, you have a U shaped valve that prevents spillage during automatic fueling and has pressure sensing sensors, and also that would prevent evaporation. But I know that in India, cars there once you open the gas cap, you just have a big empty tank through a gaping hole, so if your cap on such a car was loose, you would definitely lose a fair amount of fuel due to evaporation.

I still say call the cops on your neighbor though.

lngtonge18 · July 2005

It's hard to say without seeing your car in person, but in my opinion, your rotors probably did not need to be changed. Unless you drove a good distance with your brakes squealing like crazy, the rotors would not have been scarred enough to warrant replacing them. Most mechanics will automatically suggest you get new rotors because its more money for them and most people don't know any better. Next time a mechanic suggests this, ask to go to your car and see the rotor damage for yourself. If it feels smooth or at least relatively so (some light grooves are ok), tell him to just do the pads. If you feel deep grooves on the rotor and there are lots of them, change it.

As for the tires, again, in my opinion, it's probably a waste of money. Rubber cracks from temp changes and age. It's not uncommon to see cracks on the tread blocks when the tires are still young. Sidewall cracks become more prevalent as the tire ages. But it's rare for a tire to just suddenly fail from a hairline crack. Normally, the crack either becomes large enough to cause a moderate air leak or it exposes interior metal belts. Both are detectable as long as you just keep an eye on things. 5 years is not old for a tire. As long as the tire shows no signs of heavy rot, loosing air, bulge spots, or irregular wear, I say keep the tires. I think your mechanic sees a money tree growing out of your wallet

wgreen · July 2005

Was looking at 2001 & 2002 Accents for my soon to be licensed daughter and was wondering what the original manufacturers warranty was. Also I was reading about additional warranty options as a settlement due to Hyundai mistating the horsepower ratings on some of the older Accents,anyone know anything about that?
I called a Hyundai dealer to try to get warranty info but the salseman was a little vague,I think he was doing it to try to get me to stop by in person. Nearest dealer is 40 miles away,if they were closer I would stop and find out in person.

vthuppil · July 2005

First, thanks for the reply, Ingtonge18. It helped a lot.

I know that the 5 year, 60,000 mile warranty transfers to different owners with a Hyundai. My 2000 Hyundai had the warranty active until recently, when I crossed 60,000 miles.

A 2001 or 2002 Hyundai would still have at least a year left on the warranty, providing it has less than 60,000 miles on it. This doesn't cover the normal wear and tear items like brake pads, etc. But I had to get the oxygen sensor changed on mine, and the warranty covered it.

wgreen · July 2005

Thanks for the info vthuppil,now if I could only find something out about this horsepower settlement warranty.Have heard a couple different versions of what that is.

wgreen

phillbill · July 2005

yeah i lost about 70-80 miles worth out of that tank of petrol

Doubt it was my naighbours lol, they all too rich with posh cars to worry about steeling a few pints of fuel, aint a street full of boy racers with kev cars wondering how they're gonna afford the next tank of fuel lol.

I've never done any work on the fuel tank system before, so i dont really know what sort of valve it has on it.
Yeah i always make sure the cap's on tight as it'll go before it starts clicking.

I really am stuck on this one...thanks for yr help all the same tho.

lngtonge18 · July 2005

The horsepower settlement warranty is only available to original owners of the vehicle. Once the vehicle is sold, it is no longer relevant.

phillbill · July 2005

Brake pads...well i've got 62,000 on the clock on my accent, the pads have only been changes once, and the rotors are in good condition.
I agree with the other reply, if ever anything expensive needs doin on yr car, ask if the mechanic will show you what he/she means. That way you know you'r not being ripped off.

Tyres...well in the past my accents had pirelli's, toyo's and some tigar's, all of which cost £27 a piece, each wheel lasting about 10-15,000 miles...last year i got a set of Arrowspeeds which cost £15 a piece...i've done 8,000 miles since and i've had no problems what so ever.

Most people got summit against these Goodyear made Arrowspeeds, because they're made in the third world using goodyears old moulds, old technology etc. (from the reviews i've read).
Apparently they're a bit dodgey on the inside too, meaning problems when it comes to balencing them. But as i say, i been having no problems with them so far, they bin balenced perfectly, they're giving just the same performance / life span / reliability as the expensive Pirelli's i previously had.
I''d reccomend them if you're looking for a well priced set of decent tyres anyway, even if everyone else on here would warn you off them lol.

Well hope all goes well on yr trip, sure your car won't throw up any major problems, 2800 miles is nothing on the life of todays decent engines, long as you drive sensibly.

vthuppil · July 2005

62,000 miles or kilometers? If it's 62,000 kilometers (38,750 miles) with one change, that's reasonable. But if it's 62,000 miles, that's phenomenal. Anyway, I probably am going to get new tires because Bridgestone and Firestone tires are on sale really cheap for the next month and a half, so I might as well replace the older two tires on my car. If my mechanic is trying to get money from me, he'll be disappointed when I buy the tires elsewhere.

Thanks for all the help though.

phillbill · July 2005

yeh 62,000 miles. Last time they were done was on 30,000...guess it's cuz i do lots of long distance driving, rather than lots of stopping and starting round town at traffic lights etc...

Prob gonna need doing within the next year though, got some really good instructions on how to change pads a few pages up on this discussion when i was thinking of changing them a month or two ago...if you were thinking of attempting it yourself next time, explains it really well!

phillbill · July 2005

Yeah it's on msg number 1334 about changing pads if yr interested.

Dont no why i thought the pads handnt been done before...i've blatently got an invoice from the previous owner sayin it had a new brake kit @ about 30,000 miles lol, neva mind.

dannyboy2 · July 2005

I have a 1998 Hyundai Accent that starts and runs for about 10 minutes and then it stalls and won't restart until it cools down. It does not appear to be overheating. I can keep the car running if I "power brake" it and keep the rpms over 2k. But once I let it idle after 10 minutes, it stalls. I had both Autozone (a sensor, I forget which one) and Procare (replace computer) diagnose and neither one of them made the correct diagnosis (I tried both). I would like to sell this car but really need to get this fixed first. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

phillbill · July 2005

Yeah i dont trust those diagnosis computers that you stick into your ECU...had to use one of them on my exam, missed loads of things that i picked up manually.

Before worrying about any major faults with your car that could lead to expensive bills....check the simple things first...

The staulling at high engine temperatures could be due to one of the engine management sensors being loose, or knocked out of place all together.
Just check all the connection plugs are on tight, and non of the terminals are corroded or anything.

There's a message earlier on in this discussion where i mentioned all the positions for all (that i could think of anyway) the sensors...

For example on one car i found one of the pins on the ECU was bent and all corroded up which didnt help much....

good luck...

dannyboy2 · July 2005

i'm not a huge car guy...sorry....what would be the names of the some of the sensors i would want to check

phillbill · July 2005

Got one coming out of your air box (where the air filter goes)
there's one on the gear box where it connects to the engine...you can see it as you look down into the engine bay, same side as the air filter.
Then theres the throttle postion sensor....opposite where the accellorator cable connects to the air intake system.
The lambda sensor...screwed the exhaust manifold that connects the exhaust to the engine.
There are a few more dotted around here and there...

All these connections may be on ok though...
how does your engine stop, are you litterally driving one minute and the next it dies out on you? or does the performance slowly decrease?

when you try starting it up again what happens? can you hear the starter motor wanting to start the engine? or is it totally dead...not a thing when you turn your key?

vthuppil · July 2005

I have a feeling that your engine idle rpm may be set too low. You're saying that the car doesn't stall only when the rpm is above 2,000? Or there may be a problem with your fuel intake at low engine speeds causing the engine to shut off.

Whatever is the case, if the above tips don't work out for you, I would take the car to the nearest Hyundai dealership / service center. Hopefully it's nothing serious. My car had a faulty oxygen sensor, but the computer didn't respond to my mechanic's computer. I took it to the dealership and they immediately figured out the problem.

Luckily, my car was still under the warranty, otherwise I would have had to shell out about $200. Hopefully, it doesn't work out too costly for you.

lngtonge18 · July 2005

It could be a bad fuel pump relay or ignition relay if it has one. These can start acting up once they get old and hot.

dannyboy2 · July 2005

I will drive the car for 5-10 minutes and then the car just dies. After that, I cannot start it for about 30 minutes...turns over but will not start. The temperature gauge does not show the engine overheating. thanks for your help.

dannyboy2 · July 2005

yes, I can keep the car running if i keep the rpms over 2000. The problem does not occur until the engine has warmed up and has been running for 5-10 minutes. Once i let it idle below 2k, it stalls. Thanks.

phillbill · July 2005

Could it maybe the lambda sensor's sooted up...
This is the one that's screwed into your engine - exhaust manifold.
To clean it you unscrew it out of the manifold, get a clean cloth soaked in petrol and gently clean the tip of the lambda sensor with it.
(im assuming your car is petrol not diesel...)

If the lambda sensor isn't getting the correct readings it would make the mixture too rich or to weak, from what you've told me it sounds too weak

If your unsure, borrow a haynes manual from the library, tells you exactly where it is and how to get it out.

vthuppil · July 2005

I say you should take it to the dealer and see what the problem is. If it's something that costs you under $500, maybe it's worth fixing it. Hyundais are fairly reliable and if you haven't noticed any other problems with your car, it might be worth getting it fixed and getting a couple of more years driving out of this car. How many miles does your car have on it? If it's under 125,000, you've got at least a couple of years left.

Also, I'm thinking about starting to do my own oil changes (right now I pay about $55 for a fully synthetic oil change). Mine is a 1.5 liter, 92 hp engine. Does anyone know how much oil I should put in there for a complete change? I thought it was a gallon (3.78 L), but someone told me it could be less than that? Would three quarts (roughly 3 L) be enough? Seriously, in this country, we have to start using the same measures the rest of the world is using. We're living in the dark ages here. What's next, our speedometer is going to be in "inches / epoch" or something ridiculous like that.

altair4 · July 2005

You wrote:
Does anyone know how much oil I should put in there for a complete change? I thought it was a gallon (3.78 L), but someone told me it could be less than that? Would three quarts (roughly 3 L) be enough?

The exact amount of oil required (in quarts and liters) can be found in your owner's manual, along with pretty good instructions on how to do an oil change, if your manual is anything like the one in my mother-in-law's '02 model.

lngtonge18 · July 2005

3 quarts would not be enough. If I remember correctly, it takes between 3.5-3.75 quarts.

vthuppil · July 2005

I bought my car used and it didn't come with an owner's manual, which is why I'm asking here. Ok, so if it's 3.5 to 3.75 quarts, a gallon of oil should be good enough.

phillbill · July 2005

Well my 1.3 took just over 3 litres....i'd assume the 1.5 take more

The easy way to find out is to get a large drip pan that holds upto 5-6 litres....i used an old roses choccolates tin lol
Undo the nut on the oil sump and let it flow out into the pan
then when its stopped take the oil filter off....these can be a devil....you may need an oil filter wrench....or what some people do is ram a screw driver into the side of it for extra leverage....i prefere using a filter wrench myself tho lol
Make sure the pan's under the filter....upto half a pint may come dripping out of the filter and where it was fitted....

Now you got all the oil in the system in your pan.....just measure it out....lets say 3.6 litres for example....so replace it with 3.6 litres fresh oil.

Usually you get oil in 5 litre containers....so you should be ok whatever.

When putting the new filter in, make sure you leave it for 5 min or so with clean oil in to soak the filter....otherwise there's a small chance it may tear with the pressure of the system if it's started up dry.
Even though it will have been very tight to undo....dont use the wrench to tighten it up, just do it up by hand.

Dont no if you'll have the same problem as me....but i had a problem with the sump nut when tryin to put it back in, some of the threads were rough.
So you may want to get a spare ready before you start, just in case. If you dont need it...you can always take it back to the shop anyway!

When checking the oil level to get the level just right....let the oil warm up with a few minutes of engine tick over, since oil will expand with heat

aquagem271 · July 2005

I just recently bought a pre-owned 97 Hyundai accent gt, and just wanted to know what the economy mode, normal mode button does??? Also what to use the overdrive button for? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks

altair4 · July 2005

Both would be covered in the onwer's manual, if you have one.

Typically, the overdrive button locks out the overdrive function of the transmission, which will stop the transmission from shifting up and down into the most economical gear. Theoretically, it makes the car more comfortable to drive for those who are bothered by the shifting sensation.

Dunno about the economy/normal button. If it's on the transmission, it affects the shift points, allowing for more economical (but less responsive) driving by allowing the transmission to shift to a higher gear earlier (when in economy mode).

bb466 · July 2005

I own a 2003 Hyundai Accent GL hatchback. Car has 34000 miles. As of late (past week or so), I've noticed that my brakes seem to make a soft squealing sound when I release the brake pedal. The squealing doesn't occur when I depress the pedal and the functioning of the brakes seems very normal. The car's brakes were looked at about a month ago as part of a 30000 mile checkup and were normal. The car recently made a trip across the country. Any ideas? Thank you.

vthuppil · July 2005

I had the same problem with mine ( a 2000 model) a few weeks ago. It could be your brake pads are wearing out. Mine started out the same way, a soft squealing sound when the pedal was depressed. Then the soft squealing sound came when the brakes were pressed. Then the squealing continued no matter when, as long as the tires were rotating. That's when I checked it out and replaced my pads or rotors. If your car has 34,000 miles on it, and you've never changed the pads before, it could be quite likely your pads need changing now. Get it looked at. If you let the squealing continue for too long, you risk damaging your rotors which are much more expensive to fix.

kellisue · July 2005

I am desperate for help about my Hyundai. Im in Australia and here they call it a Hyundai Excel but I believe its the same as a Hyundai Accent elsewhere in the world. Its a 98 model, twin cam engine, automatic.

This car has decided to start stressing me out at a time when I least need it - I am expecting a baby in 8 days!

About 3 weeks ago, it decided to cut out as I was approaching traffic lights (had only been driven for 5 mins so couldnt have been overheating). The car since new has never broken down on me! After about 15 minutes, the car started again and was fine. It started fine every time after that too. I took it to a local (apparently) very reputable big name mechanics chain and asked for a major service & tune up (it needed it anyway) and told them what happened at the traffic lights. They carried out service/tune ($300 AUD) and found nothing else wrong with it. Claimed it must have been due to "dirt on the spark plugs".

Two days later, after several trips in it later with it driving beautifully, I go to leave the hospital after my hour long appointment and it wont start. Cranks over, but wont start. Again after 15-20 mins, it starts perfectly. I take it back to the mechanics and tell them what happened. They feel bad, knowing my condition, that it broke down on me. After 2 days, they diagnose a worn out fuel pump, saying it was seizing and causing this "intermittent" starting problem. So I give them another $400 and tell them the car must be bomb proof as Im 8 months pregnant. They assure me that was the problem.

One week later, and several no problem car trips later, I take a short 5 minute drive from home to get take away. Get in car after collecting food, it wont start, just cranks over. Once again, 15 - 20 mins later it started. I cried for the rest of the weekend

I couldnt believe this was happening.

Took it back to the mechanics again quite angry. THEY ARE HOPELESS. I tell them i dont want it back until its FIXED. They have the car for a whole week. I hear nothing. At the end of the week and feeling ignored, I call them and they tell me car is running perfectly. "we cant get it to stop or stall, nothing wrong with it". Say they have checked it over, hooked it up to their computer, nothing wrong. Well here i am thinking, if they cant fix it WHO CAN? I tell them I will come and get it but demand a refund of $400 for the fuel pump that obviously had nothing to do with the problem. They agreed on this straight away - in fact too easily.

Now I am to collect the car on Monday, I am due to give birth in 8 days and I have a car i dont trust and could leave me stranded at any time. I dont trust these mechnics. Theyve had 3 chances to fix it. Ive had enough of them.

As the problem is so unpredictable and so intermittent, I am now thinking it may be a loose wire/connection or one of these "sensors" i see people referring to on here. Its obviously an electrical problem. Agree? Can anyone PLEASE lead me in the right direction as to what may be causing my car to refuse to start like this when it appears to be mechanically A1???

Im losing sleep because of this.

Kelli

phillbill · July 2005

Speaking of sensors....could be a dirty lambda sensor, the one that's screwed into your exhaust manifold.
If it is that, it'd need cleaning with a cloth soaked in petrol.

Or it could be that your engine idle speed is set too low, since it's staulling in traffic jams when the engine's just idling. Your trusty mechanic may be able to help you with this one...

Did the mechanic change your spark plug leads? If the carbon inside is cracked then that'd cause a problem.

Hope that's some help...if not, i'd advise you get a friend / family member to drive you to the hospital on the big day

kellisue · July 2005

Hi phillbill,

Yes the mechanic replaced the spark plugs and leads when he did the major service/tune up so that can be ruled out.

My partner is collecting the car tonight & he will look at the things you suggested. Is there a diagram somewhere on the internet to show us where exactly the lambada sensor is located? Are there any other sensors that you would suggest he check out?

I will also get him to check the engine idle speed although would this be causing it to not start at all from scratch (but just crank over) after short trips? (which is has now done on two ocassions).

Kelli

phillbill · August 2005

Has your car battery been changed recently? they generally have a life of 4-5 years before they lose their power. This may be a reason why the car won't start, expecially if you have to wait for the engine bay to cool down....

If your partner knows anything about cars he should be able to find the lambda sensor...it's somthing screwed into the exhaust manifolt with a wyre coming off it, which eventually leads into the ECU.

Maybe it's more than one problem, like the idle speed would cause it to staull and then a worn battery would make it difficult to start up again.

Try the sensor comin off the air filter box. i know when my friend put a 'performance' filter on his car, it didnt have anywhere for one of the plugs to go (which would normally clip into the side of the filter box), and since then it's idle speed has been very eratic.

kellisue · August 2005

Hi again phillbill,

The battery was replaced about 2 years ago and the car has done less then 15,000 kms since then. Mechanic said he tested battery and alternator anyway and said both were fine.

As planned we collected car tonight, it started 1st go & drove home perfectly (typically!).

We will check out the lambada sensor this weekend. Is it easy to take off for cleaning?

I dont think its the idle speed or anything to do with the temperature as the two times it wouldnt start (only stalled the one time), the first time, it had been sitting there for an hour while I had my appointment (ample time to cool down) (no stalling) and the second time, a 3 min trip to the local take away and then after 15 mins of waiting for food, wouldnt start. Not enough time for it to even warm up!

Its very strange this whole ordeal. Im terrified to go anywhere in the damn thing!

Kelli

P.S. When my partner collected car tonight, he questioned the mechanic who "claimed" to have checked all the sensors and the relays. Im wondering how well they really checked them???!!

gplagge · August 2005

Hi,
I have a 2002 Accent 3 door. After my last oil change, the turn signals work intermittantly, and also my high beams, and they are mostly not working. I've checked fuses, etc. and looked for obvious loose wires.
Anywhere I should be looking??

thanks!

Gene

5port · August 2005

Have your throttle body cleaned or do it yourself. Use injector cleaner. Add it to the gas tank (Techron).

algedroez · August 2005

I went to look in to changing them myself, but after looking at the diagram in the manual, and then at the engine, I could not find them. Obviously I'm not very mechanically inclined!!! HELP!!!

neo128 · August 2005

Help, I have a 2001 accent 1.5 L 5 spd for the last few weeks i have to start it 3 times, before it runs good. The firts time it chokes the second it runs relly rough, i stop it and start it again then it's ok. The car has 302,000 k on it and never had a problem before.
anyone have a idea.

boyvii · August 2005

hi all,
i just bought a 2002 accent gs manual. i owned a 1996 accent gt for 4 years until 2003 when i sold it.
anyway, this new car handles WAAAAAY differently. has anyone else experienced scary scary highway rides or turns? this car gets blown all over the road but the worst part is really the wheels i think. i read back on the board and saw that someone claimed that tire shine makes the back wheels literally pick up off the ground when making turns. this has happened to me but i don't know if i can just attribute it to tire shine even though the car had recently been detailed before i bought it. i let some of the air out of the tires as i measured that they were overinflated. but still, the turns are spongier than the 96 gt.
so my question, apparently the 2002 gs has an option for larger tires (R14s). what does that mean? do you just get larger tires and they fit? do you need new rims? does the speedometer need adjusting? are these tires also wider?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
thanks

howid · August 2005

I understand that my accent needs its timing belt changed at 60K miles, and agree this is a good idea for the life of my car, but I just cant afford the 350 bucks needed to do so. Is this an easy process for a semi-handy person? I've done fairly major maintenance jobs before with other cars (never a timing belt, though), is it that hard?

Do I need special tools, etc.? Is there a DIY link or book I can get to walk me through it? I see timing belts all over for under 50 bucks. Now, I CAN afford that, lol.

Thanks :shades:

beliver · August 2005

howid: Look at it this way. If you cannot afford the $350 bux for a timing belt replacement can you afford about 2K for a whole new engine ? That is what will happen IF the belt breaks, trashed engine !! Those timing belts usually will last a lot longer than 60K miles BUT if it doesn't you will not get coverage under the power train warranty. The choice is yours. Do you feel lucky ?

believer

crystals05 · August 2005

I just bought a 1995 Hyundai Accent 3-door hatchback. It has 113,000 miles on it. I was wondering what to check on the car, I mean, general stuff that I may need to take care of. If anyone has any helpful hints I'll be very grateful.
Thanks.

howid · August 2005

beliver: I understand the importance of this, like I mentioned before. It's just I cant afford that huge of an expense, especially when I can do it myself for the price of a 45 dollar timing belt and an afternoon. So, have you done this yourself? If so, how difficult was it? That's all Im asking.

dancerman · August 2005

Timing belt replacement is not difficult. It helps to have a repair manual so you have the basic procedure and all the specs handy. Patience is also required.

beliver · August 2005

howid: If you must do it then do it right. While you have all the bits and pieces scattered all over the garage go ahead and replace the water pump too as it is "right there" and it would be a shame to do all the work and then have it leak or fail a few miles later.

Hyundai has a great web site for parts etc. Also I would get a "Factory Manual" from them as well.

I have changed timing belts on several cars but not on my Accent GT. Too new, but it will be a straight forward job. Take your time and follow the manual exactly or you may induce a timing problem that may be difficult to remedy or possibly damage a valve as well.

Good luck !! Believer

howid · August 2005

Thank you for help. I might have access to a Mitchell program to help with this job. I'm sure it will be a great tool.

Also, do you have this Hyundai parts link you mentioned? I'd like to use genuine parts.

Lastly, you mentioned a manual, I've looked all over and havn't been able to find one. There doesnt seem to be anything out there for the 2002 Accents. Any suggestions?

Thank you

beliver · August 2005

howid: Go to Hyundai usa.com and look around they have a very owner friendly site

Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks

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