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It was the same as in those old carburetor engine cars what used to happen if some impurity in the gas chamber entered the engine cylinder or something, but since this car is MPFI, I don't think the same happens. Also what's weird is that this happened a few seconds after I had the heater on. When I turned the heater off, it sputtered along a while, slowly reducing in intensity, and then disappeared. It happened again when I turned the heater on, at full blast only though.
Also my AC light stays on, regardless of whether the AC button is pushed in or not. Do you think that the button is screwed and the air conditioner is trying to work with full heat, and that caused this? I really don't know what to make of it. I'm going to take it to my mechanic tomorrow, just wanted to know what I can expect to hear.
If I were in your shoes, I'd drive this car into the ground - with or without
it's whistling. I have 135,000 miles on my 95 Tercel and it squeaks a lot,
but I've gotten used to it.
What do you think guys, is this possibble?
Have you taken it to a garage and asked what it could be?
What exactly are the symtoms...if you havn't got it fixed yet...is it blue smoke (indicating burning oil) or steam coming out of the exhaust?
Is the car sounding normal when it runs? Has there been any change in performance since the problem?
Or maybe if it's only causing problems in first gear, the cog for that gear is worn out in your gear box....
Or if you say it's sputtering, it could be the throttle potentiometer, when i was doing car electronics at college i remember disconnecting the throttle pot to see what happened (1997 vauxhall astra i think it was), i put my foot on the gas in neutral, and the engine spluttered like crazy!
It also caused the engine light to come on...hope that's some use
But i don't know about the air con light....it may have somthing to do with it...
the engine never gets hot.
But it looks like to me to have a little low gas-mileage, last time i calculated about 31mpg mainly in the city.
I just cant decide the colour of the smoke, but it looks like greyish,
looks like when you ona cold morning start your car.
And the smoke always comes at the beginning after idling a lot and pushing the gas very hard and it stops smoking after a short time.
But if you say the smoke (more likely to be water vapour) goes away once it's warmed up i'd say it's fine. Nothing to worry about. While a car's not warmed up properly you will see clouds (ok, maybe clouds of the stuff is a bit of an over statement, it's not that bad) of condensation coming out of the exhaust, i would assume it's becuase the CAT's not warmed up properly. But this is normal. Takes mine about 5-10 minutes to warm up and stop giving condensation out of the exhaust.
But if you are still unsure just take it down to a garage and ask them to test it, as mentioned prevoiusly in this message board, garages do have special bits of kit which can tell you almost instantly if there's a leak somewhere.
I just got rid of my Rav4, 2004 that I bought new, because of that. I had four incidents of " Unwanted Acceleration"- Sudden surge- and I was not going to wait until the next one happens and get involved in an accident ot kill a pedestrian. I was lucky nothing happened in those occasions. There was an investigation in the near past about this, after the electronic throttle was blamed by a lot of people that had the same trouble in their new Toyotas cars, they found nothing wrong and the drivers were blamed. Well, the thing is that I was going to get the new Toyota Yaris 2006 and found out that it comes with Electronic Throttle too, no way! that is why I want to know if Hyundai uses the same system, I know GMs does. Thanks
I've not read anywhere about the acceleration system you mentioned being on the new Accent, but you could easily phone up your dealer and ask weather it's on the 2006 Accent.
Next time you fly and are enjoying that bag of peanuts they now give you @ 35 thousanf feet and 600 + mph consider that the aircraft probably has "fly-by-wire" control systems. If it works for Boeing and AirBus it'll sure be ok in the automotive world. I doubt that Hyundai would go that high-tec in the Accent's price range tho.
believer
But the oil level looks like to go down.
I just got another problem( this is crazy.)
Now smoke is coming out from the hood, after the engine gets hot,
i tried to analyze it where does it come from, but once i stop with the car it disappears, It smells like something is burning, like a burning rubber or so.
The biggest problem i dont know which service i can trust.
Last time i went to a place and they charged 80$ ! for an oil change.
Where can be the leak? Bad sealing? Valves,Piston rings?
How much should it cost to repair these kind a problem?
Thanks.
is it possibble that this cause the piston rings to leak?
Because fully synthetic oils are much thinner.
Any oil "experts" out there know anything about this ?
believer
Yeah they will charge an excessive amount of labour for changing the oil, as when the engine's cold when it's done the oil will be thicker so will take a long time to drain, so while your cars slowly draining oil your paying a mechanic to sit down with a cuppa tea and read the news paper for half hour or so.
believer
Never noticed a place that just does oil changes over here in the UK. Tyre, brake and exhaust specialists yes, but never oil places.
Any more ideas on Farkas's smoking Accent that seems to be the heat of the discussion at the mo... :sick:
cheers, Believer
If not, im sure if you phoned up your local Hyundai Dealer they would be able to give you the torque specs, my local hyundai garage has been very helpful with that sort of thing so far.
Is there anything to be carfull of when changing spark plugs on accents? E.g. on some of the Ford KA's, i've heard that the spark plugs have a tendency to not want to come out, and when enough force is put in to remove them, they can break, resulting with the electrode dropping into the engine :sick:
Just that i'm thinking of doing my plugs in a few months.... cheers.
1) It will lower your mpg
2) It will be very sluggish on cold mornings
3) Engine warm-up will take longer
Other makes such as Suzuki have had the same problem.
Also...do i need to clean round the part of the engine block they go into...if so, what with?
I have a couple of litres of unused part synthetic oil from last year left over, will i be ok mixing it with the new stuff i've bought? They're both 10W-40 part synthetic, however they are different brands. Or should only one brand be used at a time?
Thanks
You've got nothing to loose by trying some in injector cleaner, it's only £4 a bottle over here in the UK
Hope that's some help
If it doesn't say how much it takes....just keep adding a bit at a time and keep checking the level on the dip stick.
I am a broke student who needs to buy a cheap car with hatch. The only car that fits in my budget is the Accent. I am looking to buy a new 05 and keep it for about 4 yrs. Since this will be my first car, I want peace of mind and hence going for a new car.
If any of you guys can advice me regarding this car in terms of reliability, handling, stability and highway driving as well as other things you did or did not like about this car, I will really appreciate it. My driving will be limited to the city most of the time.
Thanks,
It has had NO problems, NO squeeks or rattles gets over 28mpg in town and I've gotten 34mpg on the road.
If you want one (05) better move fast as the 06's will be here soon and they will probably cost more and no hatch till later in the year.
Go for it, you can't go wrong.
Believer, and then some
There are different types of pulse generator, the inductive type is easiest to understand...
Inside the pulse generator there is a rotor spinning round with four arms on it. As the rotor spins, the arms spin past a set of inductive windings, generating a pulse of electricity which is sent to one of the spark plugs, igniting one of the cylinders in the engine.
Hope that makes sense...
If you're interested, two other types of pulse generator are:
Optical pulse generator
Hall effect pulse generator
There should be lots of information on these on the internet if you type them into a search engine.
I have a 2000 Accent with 80k miles, manual.
I realized (and more frequently) that sometimes it is very hard to put it into first and second gear, 3rd and 4th is fine. What could be the reason for this? What can I look for?
Any help appreciated, thanks.
If the gear oil's not been changed for 2 years (or 20,000 miles) there would be no harm in changing it, see if it makes a difference. Any fragments of metal that get worn off with wear and tear end up in the gear oil, hence the need for changing it every couple of years.
Do I can do this on my own? Thanks, again
I assume it's a manual Accent?...
turn the steering on full lock left so you can remove the plastic splash guard from under the car...if it's fitted.
Then you'll see the gear box with a large nut on the side, remove this and the gear oil will drain....about 2.2 litres (on my 1.3 1999 Accent)
Put the nut back in, then you should be able to see a smaller nut on the front of the gear box, remove this and you'll be able to refill from here.
I used a 200ml syringe (that i obtained from the local vet) and squirted the oil in bit by bit using that. It was a bit messy though, so have some newspaper to the ready.
Some people use a bit of tubing and pour it in from above, with the other end of the tube inserted inside the filler hole....however i didn't have any tubing of the right diameter and length...so i chose the more tedious and messy method
good luck
Also...this website will help you with locating the nuts that you need to remove if you have trouble...
http://www.ennerdale.freeserve.co.uk/dave/manual_gear_box_oil.htm
Thanks!