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Honda Civic (coupe/hatchback)

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Comments

  • jimjetjimjet Member Posts: 27
    I greatly appreciate your suggestion on the Si / EX cluster.
    I like sitting a little higher so as to fully see the hood and get an excellent view of the road. I owned an '88 Civic hatch and it had that perfect view - I just want it again in my '96. (The '88-91 hood is lower than the '96-00 model.)
    Don't get me wrong - I like my '96 hatch alot and plan to enjoy it many more years. It's just that I set the mark a little higher for Honda.
    Good luck in autocrossing with your Super 1600.
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    One of my taller friends actually bought a Del Sol seat and put the bottom cushion part (the part you sit on) into his driver's seat in his GS-R in order to sit lower (the Del Sol cushion is thinner). He is then going to send it to a leather place for them to cover the cushion so it matches with his leather GS-R seats. This made me think about how you could find a bottom cushion from another car at a junkyard and test fit it to adjust your seating position.
  • jecklesjeckles Member Posts: 87
    Does anybody know when Honda offered or intalled ABS on the 92-95 Civic Si Hatchbacks. I heard a rumor that ABS was standard, but the 92's that I've looked at don't seem to have ABS...

    Can anybody help?

    Thanks
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    Have you checked in Edmunds' Used Vehicle Guide? This guide also lists the Standard Features and Options available for any given year. Look for a direct link to the Used Honda Vehicles information in the Helpful Links on the left side of the page. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your purchase.

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
  • jimjetjimjet Member Posts: 27
    Thanks again for another good idea - on the seat cushions. You're finding ways to fully solve my bitching.

    I've had my '96 for just over six years now - but only 50K miles (three cars for two drivers). It starts and runs about like when new. So efficient with decent handling and power. The handling has been much improved with 195/60 - 14's versus the 175/70-13's that the '96 came with.
  • igloomasterigloomaster Member Posts: 249
    hello, i'm back from a long absence, so forgive this question if it has been covered before:

    does anybody know if honda has any plans to introduce a 5 door hatchback (like a VW GOLF) in the USA in the near future?

    i would buy one if the $ was right. i don't need the sporty 3-door new Si.
  • bsme1991bsme1991 Member Posts: 23
    I don't live too far from Canada and was wondering if the 2002 Civic HB is available there. The Alliston, Ontario, Canada has Civic HB for 2002 manufacturing according to hondanews.com under 'manufacturing'.
  • sunbird3200sunbird3200 Member Posts: 12
    What is the difference between a 96 cx hatchback and a 96 dx hatchback? I'm looking between them and I really can't find a difference.
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    Have you checked Edmunds' Used Vehicle Guide? They list all the standard features, as well as available options, for any given year. Once you get to the individual vehicle page (CX or DX), look for a link to the Standard Features in the left hand column. You'll be able to see the difference by comparing these two lists. Hope this is helpful. Good luck.

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    The DX has power steering, a rear spoiler, air conditioning (as an option, I believe), and radio (also an option, I believe). The drivetrain and vital components are all the same between the two. I drive a 98 DX rollerskate with all of the above options but will probably remove the air conditioning as the car becomes a dedicated track car. Who needs A/C when you have windows? ;) Oh yeah, and I don't think power locks or windows were an option on either model. I installed power locks and keyless entry for fun. The 96-98 hatches are actually different than the 99-00 by the front bumper, headlights, fenders, and hood. There are two side vents on the front bumper on the 99-00 that are not on the 96-98. You will notice it when you actually look for it. I personally like the older style...perhaps I am a bit biased.
  • sunbird3200sunbird3200 Member Posts: 12
    So the cx won't come with power steering? I don't mind the other things because the car comes with a cd player but no power steering that sounds harsh. Was it even an option?
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    I don't think it was even offered as an option. It really isn't that big of a deal because the car is very small and light. The steering will be higher effort but not unmanageable by any means. Test drive one and pay attention to the steering feel (especially at lower speeds, i.e. parking lot) and you will see what I am talking about. A lot of people like it because it gives better steering feel.
  • igloomasterigloomaster Member Posts: 249
    My 99 CX w/auto tranny came with power-assisted steering.

    CX manual: no power steering.

    i owned a '90 civic HB manual w/out power steering and it was fine.

    the only time power steering is useful in a little HB is when you are trying to parallel park in the city.
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    You are right on that one...I forgot about automatics.
  • sunbird3200sunbird3200 Member Posts: 12
    So power steering isn't really a huge thing then. So then a 96 civic cx hatchback with 60,000 miles air conditioning and a cd player for $5500 isn't a bad deal then? I saw edmunds price and its about $5700 what would you guys bid for. Maybe $5000 maybe 4700. What do you think?
  • jimjetjimjet Member Posts: 27
    Let me just add to chem123's comments. My '96 CX Hatch 5-sp had no PS and that's okay with me. As Chem says - it gives a very good feel of the road. (BTW, the first years of the Acura NSX -$80K car - had no PS either for the same reason - plus its light front end.) I recently put new tires on the front - Dunlop Sport A2 (195/60-14) and they made a surprising difference. It is noticeably easier to turn at parking lot speeds.

    The DX Hatch also has a rear window wiper and the CX does not, but that's minor. Also, the plastic piece (mini-spoiler?)above the hatch at back of roof with the 3rd brake light is always black on the CX but matches the body color of the DX. I would choose the cars based totally on condition and price and forget about the DX / CX differences.
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    Sounds like a great deal on the CX depending on the condition of the car. Make sure that you check the braking ability of the car and be wary of any vibration during braking (rotors warped). For some reason, the OEM front rotors can do this on occasions. Otherwise, a great, trouble-free car--excellent utility and fun to drive. To put your decision in perspective, I paid $7900 for a 98 DX with 45K mi about a year ago. When you are test driving a standard hatch (they didn't come with tachometers) keep in mind that 1st gear is good up to 30 mph and 2nd to 60 and 3rd to over 100. Of course 1st actually hits 40 and 2nd hits 74, but I don't suggest you do that on a test drive especially if it's a private owner ;).
  • sunbird3200sunbird3200 Member Posts: 12
    The tachometer is the only that I really hate about the cx/dx hatchs but I'm going to find a ex cluster and swap that in. You guys have been a great help.
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    The EX cluster will work well, as will an Si cluster (99-00). Both are plug-and-play. Good luck.
  • racer11racer11 Member Posts: 4
    question 1. how do you access the top mounts of the rear shocks on a 1999 hatchback. there are no access panels, it looks like you have to gut the interior and to that the rear seat comes out.

    question 2. while driving in reverse (5 spd), all is normal. when coasting in reverse something appears to click with every rotation of the drive line. is this normal, the car is new to me.
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    To access the top mounts of the rear shocks, you will need to remove the rear speakers and a couple of screws along the bottom of the panel. If you can't get to what you need to get to, you will need to remove a few more screws along the base of the plastic panel to reach the shock mount from under the panel. Basically, unscrew some and then tug to see what is still attached. I just dremeled holes on the side of the rear panels to access my adjustable shock mounts and later put in a rear strut brace.

    Is the sound you are talking about a whining sound that seems to be coming from the drivetrain or is it a definite click? Are you on the gas or not? If it is really just a whine and slight rockiness when you let off the gas, then nothing is wrong.

    Hope this helps.
  • racer11racer11 Member Posts: 4
    thanks chem123 for the response.

    the reverse noise is not present when driving with the clutch fully engaged or while engaging the clutch while moving from a dead stop. my driveway is sloped down to the road, so at some point i end up disengaging the clutch and rolling out the drive with the trans in reverse . this is where the click click happens. it sounds like some kid stuck a baseball card in my spokes. i don't get it coasting forward with the clutch disengaged in first gear. i do not believe i am hearing gear whine. i have had my share of straight cut gears in motorcycles.
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    Darn, I hate it when kids stick baseball cards in my wheels ;). Seriously, though, I don't know what to think of your problem. I strongly suggest that you go to www.honda-tech.com and register and ask your question. Try the "EG+" forum and the "Tech" forum. I think you will find a wealth of information there about a car that you are new to. FYI, you drive an "EK" chassis car (96-00) while EG's are 92-95, hence the "EG+" forum being appropriate.
  • igloomasterigloomaster Member Posts: 249
    howdy. weird thing just started happening.

    my gas pedal will stick a bit when starting off or after backing off of the pedal completely and then reapplying pressure.

    for example -- i will apply the normal 'gentle' pressure to get going, and the pedal doesn't want to move. the only way i can describe how it feels is that of an unlubricated door hinge. it takes more muscle to get it to do it's thing.

    adding a little more pressure than i am comfortable/familiar with gets the pedal to work, but results in too much of a burst in speed due to the pressure needed to get the pedal to go down.

    i tried to grease up the joints on the pedal itself, but that didn't help at all. any ideas?
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    Have you checked your throttle cable? That might be it.
  • racer11racer11 Member Posts: 4
    mssg 258.

    the 2002 hatch is here. i believe the whole car is from england and shares no engine parts with the former sir or si. big hp, and lots or revs, sounds like real crap for city driving but fun in the twisties.
  • arta43arta43 Member Posts: 1
    Thanks to jimjet for his tire recommendation for those without power steering. I put a pair on my 97 Hatch and it's amazing to feel the difference that a tire can make. It reduces the steering effort by at least half or two thirds. Wow!!

    Thanks again jimjet!!

    I also just finished the EX gauge cluster swap so if anyone needs a "walk through" feel free to email me.....
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    Congrats on the successful installs. Never can go wrong with new rubber or better instrumentation.
  • hondahtchbkhondahtchbk Member Posts: 4
    Hey i am just starting to add racing equiptment to my honda civic cx. I really need to know something, i just bought racing seats and i need to know how to attach the harnessess. I want people to still be able to sit in the back of the car, while haveing the harnessess installed. I am not puttng them in to race.... its kinda just for looks. How can i put the harnesses in?
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    Please do not use those harnesses without at least a 4 pt rollbar (not rollcage). In the event of a rollover, your neck is not able to be forced downward toward the center of the car and your neck becomes the rollbar (if you get what I am saying). What type of seats and harnesses are we talking about anyway? You shouldn't even use harnesses on the street even if you have them. Not to rain on your parade, but what is the point of non-functional racing equipment? Racing seats are a good start if they are good ones as they will allow you to concentrate on your driving when racing...OFF-ROAD. Try even a local autox and have some good, cheap fun racing your car.
  • hondahtchbkhondahtchbk Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for informing me about that... ill be sure to take what you said into account and not race on the road.
  • hondahtchbkhondahtchbk Member Posts: 4
    YOU ALL TRY TO RACE THE RACE MASTER!!!! I DRIVE A POWERFUL 1988 CRX AND IT IS ALL STOCK!! THIS PIECE OF CRAP WILL BLOW ALL YOUR CARS AWAY. JUST TRY ME, I LIVE AT 123 FAKE ST. COME IF YOU WANT TO LOSE, COME IF YOU WANT TO WIN, BUT YOU WILL BE DISSAPOINTED CUZ I AM THE FASTEST RACER ALIVEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!! GLOVIN
  • rfruthrfruth Member Posts: 630
    *every* time I get in my Civic (2000 DX 5 speed hatch) & turn on the A/C (lots) I turn the temp control switch just off the coldest setting figuring a little better fuel economy less wear & tear on the compressor etc and the owners manual is worded like that anyway people say nope the compressor is on or off there is no thermostat and that stands to reason this is a Civic there is no max A/C setting or auto climate control there's an A/C switch (on or off) temp and fan control that's it I got home from the airport and asked a neighbor who owns a small fleet of trucks, asked him before I even got the question out of my mouth he was shaking his head (that Jason is correct the car doesn't have the smarts to cycle the compressor as needed) when you answer and hope that you do say turn that baby as cold as it will go cause I will. Rob in Houston
  • hondahtchbkhondahtchbk Member Posts: 4
    hey everyone.. i need some help. I have a problem i have a 1992 honda civic cx hatchback. I just bought a new emergency brake handle and i cant seem to get the old one off. I have a manual about all the parts and how to remove them but it says there is a screw to remove the handle, when i can clearly see there is not. If anyone could help me by telling me how to do this task i would greatly appreciate it. Thank you so much.
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    from Edmunds' Generations section: A Honda Civic History, by John DiPietro. Hope you enjoy!

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • dxeerdxeer Member Posts: 2
    does anybody know exactly what honda did different to the '92-'95 civic VX models engine vs the DX engine? VX gets about 15 more miles/gal than the DX.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    used the VTEC-E engine that the later gas-sipper HX coupes used, if that helps at all.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • dxeerdxeer Member Posts: 2
    nippononly would I be able to do any mods to my DX engine to get the mileage up like the VX?
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    The VX was more than just engine mods to get the higher mileage. I'll try to list as much as I can remember:

    1) VTEC engine was tuned for higher mileage. Mag reviews at the time complained of a too abrupt transition to VTEC caused by this tuning.

    2) Wheels where cast aluminum with 70 series radials mounted(narrower and lighter than the steel wheels on CX or DX).

    3) Front end had a deep air dam reducing lift and increasing mileage at highway speeds.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I don't remember what differentiated the VTEC from the VTEC-E, but I do remember it was not something you could mod on the engine - you needed to have the entire head and intake system of the VTEC-E car.

    Way too expensive to contemplate now - you can still buy an HX, so that is the way to get your hands on this engine nowadays.

    Those VX/HX-only alloys looked really nice though - I have seen a DX here and there over the years that bought those particular alloys for appearance's sake. They are narrower, but also lighter, and reducing unsprung weight always helps to increase fuel economy....

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • scooter71scooter71 Member Posts: 56
    the car also had weight-saving upholstry that was pretty thin. i want to say there was a difference in the exhaust, too.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    to be "lean-burn" - this probably had a lot to do with the engine management too.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • rickragerickrage Member Posts: 1
    Just wondering if anyone in here knows how to or knows where I can find info on replacing the rear window. The old one got busted out, I picked up a new used one from a Honda Parts yard, doesn't look like it would be that difficult but I owuld rather follow some sort of instruction before I make what may be an easy job a lot harder =)
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    You may also to post (copy/paste) your question in our Honda Civic Owners - Service & Repair Issues discussion. Someone there may have some helpful feedback. Good luck.

    Revka
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
  • cyickcyick Member Posts: 1
    Ok guys. I recently (as in today) just bought a 91 Honda civic hatchback,. Now what i am wondering about is what kind of problems I should be aware of or special little things on how to handle this car a little bit easier. I am totally stupid when it comes to cars so i may need your help quite a bit!
    Kel
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    and congrats on your Honda Civic purchase.

    You said: "Now what i am wondering about is what kind of problems I should be aware of or special little things on how to handle this car a little bit easier."

    To start, you can look up recommended service schedules, recalls, and technical service bulletins for your 91 Civic in Edmunds Maintenance Guide. Also, you'll find valuable information on vehicles/driving in Edmunds' Ownership Section? Scroll down the page to see their Tips & Advice articles.

    Others here may have more to add. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your ownership experience. ;-)

    Revka
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
  • beanboybeanboy Member Posts: 442
    Taking care of my sick GF and her sick Civic this week, and have a number of little issues I'm trying to research:

    Reading the forum with interest about the delay in starting with a 1/3 of a tank or lower, glad my GF's '99 wasn't the only one! Anybody ever find out a reason?

    On a fuel related note, her car wasn't started for a week, so the battery which was already week 9and orginal) finally gave up. Replaced it but the car still wasn't happy. A couple of bottles of dry gas along with 5 gallons from a can and the car started right up. Related to the delayed starting perhaps???

    The car was running fine, took in on the highway for a good 25 minutes or so to warm everything up and blow out the cobwebs. Noticed the check engine light was on. Figure it was becuase the battery was disconnected, any idea how long it will take for the code to clear? Is there anyway to check the codes without a scan tool? I'm able to check mine by just doing an on/off sequence with the ignition.

    Noticed the beginnings of a slight shudder in the brake pedal, read with interest the Civic is known for some pretty wimpy brake rotors. Any direct replacement rotors to recommend?

    Tires were rotated a while ago, and a creaking noise has appeared in the front right suspension area. Thinking bumpstop or material used to quell noise shifted/moved when the car was on the lift. Anybody else have this problem and know what exactly is causing the problem? Wondering if they cranked the lug nuts down too much, leading to the rotors starting to warp.

    Well, I think that's all for now, tehe. Thanks for any and all advice!

    -B
  • icvciicvci Member Posts: 1,031
    Check plugs? How about running a bottle of injector cleaner at the next fuel stop. I always do with an oil change.

    For starts on first crank, turn the key and wait until the check engine light goes off. Then crank away. Supossedly this pressurizes the fuel system. My hatch always starts on the first try after I wait.

    Codes? Look here - http://jdmfan.com/index.php?information=dtc

    There is a TSB for the creaking noise. I have the problem to but, it doesn't happen enough that I care. I am curious what it is though.

    Buy a Helm Manual, it is a DIY Bible.
  • rivertownrivertown Member Posts: 928
    Not much help from me, but . . .

    The post suggesting waiting for the fuel pump to initialize when starting seems very right to me.

    I don't expect more than about three years on a new car battery, so it makes sense to me that GF's needed replacement.

    Dunno about the brake/tire/suspension issues.
  • beanboybeanboy Member Posts: 442
    Thanks for the information. Was going to grab a bottle of techron yesterday, but didn't make it to the stores in time.

    Thanks for the link to the codes and how to get them without a scan tool!

    -B
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