Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





VW Golf

1246749

Comments

  • adg44adg44 Posts: 385
    On my sisters beetle, it has the 2.0L engine, and it drinks so much oil I couldn't believe it! I just add some more oil to it ever couple of weeks. I think I'm gonna switch over to synthetic when it hits 20K miles and I'll see what that does.
  • mnnmnn Posts: 31
    wj27: I too, notice the turn indicator flash you described. It was like that from day 1, so I assumed it is a "design" thing. As for the headlight, I only experience the turning off part, where the light will come on briefly when I turn the ignition off, but then it is only briefly, and everything turns off when you have the key out. If I turn the ignition on, the light will only come on when I have the handbrake down.
  • peugotpeugot Posts: 1
    VW golf 99
    1-Check engine light two times
    2-The dealer drove it for 300 miles to check it
    3-Squeaking noise twice to the dealer. He was thinking it was the bushings and added some grease. Finally they changed the brakes. 4-Rattling noise and it disappeared by itself
    5-Oil light was turned on at 8000 miles. The dipstick was dry. Two quarts were added.I was told it was normal. NO WAY
    6-Oil check was done every 1000 miles by another dealer and it was 20% less each time.
    7-At 18700 the light was turned on again. Two full quarts were added.
    8- At 20200 the level was under the dotted area.
    9-Went back to the dealer for maintenance and oil compression test and the test was OK.
    10-The tape recorder is not working as if someone is speaking fast.
    11-The dealer said they had problems with radios.
    12-At 21200 oil level is 50% less. No way that is normal. There is no leak and there is no black smoke coming out. The car is burning oil and the engine is defective.
    WHERE SHOULD I GO AND WHAT TO BE DONE ?
  • rgoetzrgoetz Posts: 13
    Floater, if you're still deciding between the 1.8T and the TDI, take my advice & drive a TDI.

    I have a Golf TDI. My wife has a Passat 1.8T. The TDI is so much smoother & more pleasurable to drive than the 1.8T. Chipped, it is absolutely amazing. Powerful torque, great mileage, diesel-durability.

    Best of all, you get to join the club. Fred's. www.tdiclub.com
  • I'm considering a 2001 Golf GLS 1.8T. Unfortunately, they are no longer assembled in Wolfsburg. They are now built in Brazil. I'm very leary of Brazil. Can anyone comment on the build quality and component quality for a German assembed Golf vs. a Brazilian? Thank you.
  • fanoufanou Posts: 2
    I bought a 2000 Golf GL in june. I replaced the VW radio with a Sony unit which included a CD player.

    One week into driving the car the ABS light went on and the ABS starts working erratically. The car also did not start occasionally, that means nothing happened after turning the ignition. Removing the key and closing and opening the doors in some arbitrary fashion seem to solve the problem.

    The dealer told me that the ABS problem is due to my "aftermarket" radio. After having me yell at the service manager for quite a while they examined the car and found a broken ABS sensor that they fixed. The dealer(of course as it is intermittened) could not find anything wrong with the ignition.

    The car now has 5k miles and goes to service next week. These are the current problems:

    1. Reverse gear extremely difficult to put in. Often you have to shift into 1st, roll a few feet before the reverse can be put in. (My 1980 Scirocco works smoother!)

    2. Occasional noise in both doors.

    3. Sometimes hesitates in 1st gear (was reported earlier by somebody else).

    4. Cupholder does not work anymore (bend out of shape I guess).

    5. The ignition problem still exists.

    6. Some noise when pushing the clutch down.

    7. In general, the FM radio reception in that car is horrible. That is true for the original VW radio as for my current Sony unit. Something is either wrong with the antenna or the design is flawed.

    Lets see what the service guy comes up with when I drop the car off.....
  • adg44adg44 Posts: 385
    what exactly do you mean?? Is it like a knocking/squeaking sound whenever you go over some light bumps?? I have that in my 01 GTI GLX and I really helped the situation by coating all the rubbers around the door with silicone spray. It doesn't take it all away, but it makes it about 50% better. Also my VW dealer told me that they sometimes put some clear tape around the inside of the door to make it stop squeaking. Good luck.
  • mnnmnn Posts: 31
    adg44: my 00' 1.8T has the same problem with the sqeaking noice from the door? when going over a bump, it sounds like the plastic molding is not properly attached to the body or something. I have a hard time locating the noice since it always seems to come from the c-piller or thereabout, but it also sounds like it is coming from the trunk, or where the seatbelt is. Which silicon spray did you use? Do you just spray all the rubber tubings and that "half-cures" it? Pls advice.
  • fanoufanou Posts: 2
    It actually sounds like some cables are hitting the inside of the door. Thanks for the tip with the silicon, but I doubt that the rubber seals are causing the trouble. Despite, the car is under warranty and the dealer gets paid by the factory to fix warranty issues.

    I would not mind, and actually do, working on cars. This one, however, is new and I expect it to work without problems. The VW dealer seem more reluctant than other car dealer to give you a really good deal using the argument about superior german quality. Now I want to see the proof.

    Stefan
  • sgesge Posts: 1
    hey guys:
    I just bought a 2000 Golf GLS 2.0. I have to say it's too noisy. Every time when accelerating, it sounds like a tractor. Is this normal ?
    Except the annoying noise, it's a good car, accelerate quickly, very stable.

    Anyone who is driving a Gold can tell me something about it ? Thanks !

    shanyou
  • Had some weird door noises when I first got my car (00 GTI GLX). Was really driving me crazy, thinking I should have bought an Accord after all. Took it back to the dealer (Tynan's in Denver) and explained the problem, certain they would say it was all in my head. They fixed the problem and I have never had it happen again. I don't recall exactly what they said the problem was, something about the trim being misaligned. I'm not really sure, but there is definitely a fix for the problem.
  • adg44adg44 Posts: 385
    The dealer just told me that they actually adjust the door so it is to tight to move against the rubber while in motion. I'll have them do that tomorrow when I take it in.
  • volkswagen has corporate standards rather than quality standards varying from plant to plant. ever noticed that american hondas and toyotas are just as sound as their japanese built counterparts? a friend of mine has a brazilian made 1993 volkswagen fox and it has proven to be utterly bulletproof.
  • I'm not quite sold on the idea that US-built Japanese marque cars are as tight as Japan-built models. Exhibit #1: My father's '98 Toyota Tercel CE. It's a very nice example and one of the very last imported from Japan. It is also much tighter, more solid feeling, and totally bulletproof than the US-built Japanese marque cars in my family, especially for a throwaway econobox like the Tercel. My examples include Mom's '00 Honda Civic LX and my squeaky but absolutely blazing '93 Nissan Sentra SE-R, both US-built. Even my brother's Japan-built '91 Honda Civic 4WD Wagon has a tighter feel than my SE-R or Mom's Civic. The differences are somewhat minor, but noticeable. Given the choice, I'd take a Japan-built model over a US-built Japanese car.

    As for Volkswagens, I too have been concerned about the quality of new Golfs from Brazil. I see many a Brazilian-built Fox, though, still roaming the streets, often flogged at top tilt by MLB backwards-cap wearing types. The Fox's general quality is proven by how many are still around in usable condition. I wouldn't buy the first Golf out of Brazil, but maybe a late first-year model would be ok.

    One question: 2001 Golf production for North America is supposed to have moved to Brazil. I've seen conflicting stories, though, about the TDI. Where will NA 2001 Golf TDI's come from? I might buy myself one next year.

    There are exceptions to every car story. This post is not intended to start a flame war, incite riots, or further urban decay. There's always someone out there ready to pounce with a 250,000 mile Chevy Cavalier or a lemon Honda Accord or a VW that's not fun to drive. Well, maybe not that last part. :)

    Thanks for reading this far.
  • adg44adg44 Posts: 385
    I've noticed that sometimes when I go to shift from 1st to 2nd, the shifter sometimes sticks in first gear. It doens't happen all the time, and it just requires a bit of force to pull it out. I thought that I didn't have the clutch depressed enough, but I don't think that's the case. Today just 10 minutes ago, I was slowing down from 40 MPH. I braked to about 15 MPH until I put the clutch in and moved the shifter into first, with the clutch fully depressed. I heard a very weird noise, like the gear was going rubbing, it was a grinding sound. Has anyone else heard of a problem like this? Do I need more clutch fluid of something? Does this happen to anyone else?

    Thanks

    - Anthony
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I don't know about the sticking in gear part, but you should NEVER try to downshift into first gear going that fast! You should be either at a complete stop or barely rolling when trying to engage first gear. Otherwise, you will encounter resistance and/or grinding. My VW usually refuses to engage first unless completely stopped and my Hyundai either refuses to go into gear or emits a grinding noise. It also happens on my Mom's Accord. Manual trannys just aren't designed to be downshifted into first unless you are stopped. Ever notice how automatics don't downshift into first until the car is almost to a complete stop? The same reasoning applies. Take it easy on your tranny and you won't encounter those noises.
  • I am going to be trading in my Golf Sport on a larger vehicle...I am in San Antonio but would ship the car....I am only asking trade-in for it or I will give it to the dealer...car has 38,000 miles... email mfriedman@satx.rr.com
  • mnnmnn Posts: 31
    adg44: I agree with post #110. The same thing happened to the Civic I used to drive, I guess it has something to do with the engine speed?? Anyway, with my VW, I notice that unless I am doing something like 10km/hr, the 1st won't engage; it is a normal, so don't worry. It may not be "proper" driving, but why don't you try "coasting" the car (put in neutral) for the last 10 feet or so before coming to a complete stop? I always downshift to 3rd gear, then brake harder and coast for the last 10 feet. That way the car stops pretty smoothly.
  • I'll answer my own question asked in #107. In regard to country of manufacture for 2001 Golf TDIs, the answer is: same as any other 2001 Golf, they're made in Brazil. I scoured two Golfs this past weekend at the New England Auto Show. Both were GLS. One green TDI, on Indigo Blue 2.0l. The Indigo Blue is stunning in person, under the lights. A gorgeous color. Both were built in Brazil in July, and looked and felt just as well screwed together as any other fourth-gen unit I've come across.

    Here's another question: Has anyone bought/ordered/seen/read about availability of the factory sunroof on GL Golfs? It's part of the luxury package on GLS models, and supposedly not on offer for the GL. A few people posted on the TDI Club (www.tdiclub.com) that they had a new Golf GL with a factory sunroof. Any ideas?
  • adg44adg44 Posts: 385
    I almost always keep it in second when I brake, I don't like to wear my EBC brakes so I don't use them too much. If I just start coasting far enough back, the braking is very smooth with a light consistent pressure on the brake pedal. I don't put it into first anymore unles I am under 5 MPH. I only really put it into first at about 15 MPH that time only, that's why I didn't know. Thanks for all the help...


    Here is a question though:

    Sometimes if I'm in gear and I'm kinda off the gas and I give it some gas, you can hear a "click" sound coming from the clutch/floorboard area. Does anyone else notice that? It don't happen too often, and it's fairly quiet. I just noticed that over the weekend, so I don't how long it's been doing it.

    Thanks so much
  • CooperCooper Posts: 55
    I read once that downshifting to slow a car is appropriate for the track, but unnecessary for the routine driving. The point they were making was that brake pads are a lot easier and cheaper to replace than a clutch.
  • mnnmnn Posts: 31
    adg44: Talking of the clicking noise, I have noticed the same thing every now and then. I suspect it is only the clutch lever or the foot piece attached to it that is making the noise. I tried pushing and shaking the clutch with my hand and it seems that when you depress the clutch, sometimes it gives a subtle "springy-clicking" sound (like operating a lever attached to a spring). When I shake the foot piece, you will notice more since that piece of plastic is not "soldered" onto the lever, and it is "movable" (though only a little bit). I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure that if I can repeat that noise with the engine off, then it is not a mechanical problem. I don't know anything about the connection of the clutch, but does anyone know if something needs to be done? like putting grease on some hindge??
  • adg44adg44 Posts: 385
    I'm pretty sure it's coming from the clutch too. It only happens when I coast and the gear isn't being pushed by the engine, and then I give it more gas. Maybe it's the sound of the clutch at work.

    As for the compression braking, changing pads is really easy, I put EBC GreenStuff brake pads all around. I even changed the front rotors. I've decided that since I wouldn't mind getting a semi-racing clutch that I'll continue to compression brake most of the time. Also, I don't like to dirty my wheels, so I don't use the brakes too much. If you stop far enough back, you can just coast to a stop.

    Thanks for all the help

    adg44@earthlink.net
  • Was in Europe this summer and ha the chance to drive one of their V5 Golfs (5 cylinders). Amazing!!! is all I could say. What is Volkswagens marketing reason for not selling those here? Is 5 cyl. too strange and foreign for American consumers? I heard those engines were more reliable than the VR6 and similarly powerful. I would buy one in a flash if I could get one here.

    Alp
  • CooperCooper Posts: 55
    I think Audi used to sell a 5-cylinder here a number of years ago.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Yes, Audi did used to sell a 5-cylinder vehicle here back in the 1980s. Acura did as well from 1992-96 called the Vigor.
  • vwguildvwguild Posts: 1,620
    Check out the New V5 Beetle @ VWVORTEX.COM
  • the audi and acura five cylinders were inline fives. the V5 in current euro VWs is basically the VR6 with a cylinder chopped off.

    also, the volvo 850,s70,& the new s60 all have inline fives.
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    Drivetrain parts (engine, clutch, transmission) cost a whole lot more to fix than brakes. I'm not saying that you should never downshift, just that using engine braking at every traffic light is silly.

    Jared
Sign In or Register to comment.