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The car has fire damage to the rear of the car and some blistering on the right rear passenger door & wheel. The cause was due to a car next to it on fire, the intensity of the fire was to melt quite significantly the rear light covers.
What other unseen damage could this do to the car? Any other electrics/cabling at rear or right back corner of the car.
Thanks Brady2
can it be the fuse or something?
please help
So I can assume you're referring to the 2.0 Golf?
I have a 2005 Golf, automatic. I just took it in for 1st oil change at 5000 miles. I have noticed in the past couple of weeks that sometimes when stepping on the gas that the car hesitates, this has happened from a stop and when stepping it up from around 30 miles per hour. Mentioned this to the dealer and they said that it is just how the computer works?? Does anyone have this problem and can anything be done about it? :confuse:
i'm new to the world of VW Golf but not new to turning wrenches. i just purchased a 94 Golf III. after two days of enjoyment it will not start. the battery is fine and the clutch is firm. i've check the lead to the solenoid and it's NOT hot with switch in on position. should it be hot? if so, if so, is there a relay or connection i should check? the only other things that are strange would be the power moon roof opens but will not close by the switch. my other issues are the trunk which dose not unlock when i unlock the drivers door (with key) nor dose the rear drivers door. could this some how be connected? any clues out there?
anything constructive info would be greatly appreciated...
was your battery disconnected at some point? you may only have to get the radio code from a dealership...:D
Recall that the MAF will be replaced free of charge. This is VW policy - technically, it's not a recall, however if you have it diagnosed as faulty it will be replaced - free. If it was not, the Dealer is at fault. I've had this done on a 5 yr old Golf with 60K on the clock. I have also had the window regulator stops replaced free of charge, past warranty, under an a similar program.
As for the power door lock problem, you probably have a vaccuum leak. These older power lock systems were vaccuum operated. If any kind of air leak occurs, the system won't operate properly. It sounds to me like there is a leak in the line between the rear door and the hatch. I know how frustrating this is because I dealt with the same problem on my friends 88 Jetta.
I was wondering if anyone could give me some guidance on this problem. My problem is with my 2001 VW golf gls (97K miles). I did not use the car for about a week. Then all of the sudden when I started it back up, the EPC light came on. It is not blinking. I needed to drive home from the airport and for the most part the EPC light remained on. The drive was about 2 hours long. There was a stretched of about 5 minutes, right after I got out of the highway, that the EPC light shut off. Then it turned on again for the rest of the ride home. I tried to use the cruise control and it too is not be working. I also noticed that my brake lights did not work unless I turned the headlights on. I think there is a minute decrease in acceleration and power but it is hardly noticeable. Also, I seem to have to press harder on the brakes to get it to stop. I don't know if this is an issue with the power brakes. I have been searching the internet and I have gotten several possible causes (ie O2 sensors, brake light switch and mass airflow). Any help you could give me would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Some auto-parts stores will "pull the code" for you free of charge.
Good luck!
If anyone has any thoughts as to what the problem might be or what I can expect to pay to get this sorted, it would be much appreciated! Thanks! :confuse:
Any ideas before having to bring it in to the dealer and spend lots of $$$$$ ?
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The in-tank fuel transfer pump runs about $60 for the part and shouldn't require more than 1 hour of labor.
The main fuel pump runs about $200 and takes about an hour of labor to install.
Drove the car over the next several weeks and the light went out nthen came on a few days later. Then, the car wouldn't start. Hours later it started but wouldn't stay running, the engine cut off right away. The remote lock on the passenger side wouldn't work, the clock time was screwed up. The next day the engine started and ran, drove the car to the dealer. They estimated the repair at $600.00. I'm just out of warrenty.
Since Beetles are knonw for electrical problems I decided it was time to trade it in. Bought a new Golf. If I have problems at least I'm on a new warrenty.
And this morning the car alarm was going off randomly for no reason. Probably it's related, the car thinks the door is opening or something.
I called the dealer... 10 day wait for an appointment. I said it was an emergency, because the alarm keeps going off. They say I can drop it off and they'll take a look... only after they have taken care of all cars that day that have an appointment.
Is this acceptable service? Anyone know of this kind of issue on a BRAND NEW car?
Nevermind that when I took delivery, they had not put in the rubber mats and mud guards I paid for. They said they'd call back in a couple of days to put them on because they were out of them. Two weeks later, still no call. I'll insist they put them in when I drop off the car this evening.
Man. I was sure loving my 'new car' experience - it's my first new car ever. Now the honeymoon is over. Way too short.
Thanks,
Annie
I'm about to buy a 2003 Golf GL, with the 2.0L engine, 5 speed, and about 15k miles. Anything I should be worried about in terms of known issues / problems with this model?? Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Jon
Now I don't recommend you run out and buy .99 cent oil and do this again I use a premium non synthetic oil. I also highly recommend to anyone wanting to extend service intervals to use and oil analysis program. This is very common in the heavy duty industry and in most race applications. By doing this you are not just taking a stab in the dark. I always pull my oil sample every 2,500miles. When the report comes back it tells me vital information for where the oil is in its life span such as viscosity, oxidation, particulate contamination and other use full information. Which in turn has helped me extend my oil drain intervals further apart. To let you know I have over 90,000 miles on my car and have had no mechanical problems that would in any way be oil related I performed a compression test at 50,00 miles and am right on the money. I use no oil between changes except what must be added when changing the oil filter. When I read about the slugging problems with these I dropped my oil pan and had a look around. everything was clean as a whistle so in the end with a premium product, and knowledge of what your doing and using oil analysis it is possible to extend your drain intervals with this engine without fear!
Thanks in advance for any instructions you can give me.
I don't think there are any sensors that monitor the space in front of the airbags. There may be sensors in the seat (but I doubt it in your model year VW) and there are sensors in the front end of your car (bumper area).
HOW to reenter the code number, but you need to get the code from the dealer.
Assume he enters your VIN online to get it, but am not sure. May not be possible to do this over the 'phone (deters radio thieves, I suppose), but why not call to check.
Hope you can quickly get it reset. Daan
I'm new to the forum, as well as the Golf. My girlfriend has one, and I have a feeling that the heater core is leaking.
Symptoms:
1) Had to top off the coolant with about a litre of water after only 3 months of summer weather.
2) When the defrost is turned on the window actually fogs up worse than if it were off. The 'fog' only dries after many hours or wiping it off, leading me to believe there might actually be some glycol being blown up through the vents.
Is this a common issue with these vehicles? Has anyone ever torn the dash apart to get to the heater core? Is this a major undertaking?
Thanks for the help,
Jordan
I'm new to the Golf family and I was wondering if I could get some help finding a certain body kit for the Golf. http://www.wingswest.com/project_archive.asp?page=1&id=1. That is the body kit I have been looking for, but every kit I find only has the fender flares, or the 4 main body pieces. Has anyone been able to find a [i]complete [/i] G-Spec kit. I have found the hood and other accessories seperatly, but that would cost me well over $3,000 more than if it were in one packabe. Thank you for your help
Robert Szanto
My Golf recently developes a strange problem. After I turn off the engine, the fan just keep running. I have to turn the engine back on and turn it off again to stop the fan. What may be the problem ? The problem developed after I had the hazard light and gas line done undert he recent recall. Any possible corelation ?
This morning I could not even start the car. It seems the battery is dead. Is it possible considering the car was running fine yesterday. Would the batery just die like this ? What type of battery would I need ? If I replace the battery myself, will I mess up or loss the computer programe ?
Help please.
DK