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VW Golf

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Comments

  • genuinitygenuinity Member Posts: 4
    Hey,

    Okay, I have a 2001 VW Golf (GLS 2.0 Engine) and I need to talk to someone who has some knowledge in them.

    Everytime I call the Service department at the dealership they always give me a different answer.

    Example: My friend who has a 1997 Golf her car was reving really high (so does mine - its just not a quiet car) she had her transmission fluid changed and now her car is really quiet. So I called the dealership and he asked why I wanted my trany fluid changed - i explained what my friend had done and he replied with - well if you want to, but u should never have to change your tranny fluid (they are actually blocked off on volkswagens so ONLY the dealership can do this - other than that you have no access to where the fluid is kept - as far as I understand)

    PLUS, lately (couple of months) I'll start my car and it will start but then on the meter that is 10 20 30 40 (sorry dont know what its called) it will rev when i start it and then as it comes down it will start like gasping and then stall. I found if i keep pushing the gas pedal in and out it will backfire but then eventually not stall (dont know if its good for the car)

    Ne whoo I'm really nervous about this and have no idea whats wrong and TOTALLY dont trust the dealership.

    Sorry for the long post but does anyone have experience with this or had this happen to their VW OR is mechanically inclined and can give me some advice as to what to do.

    My car aslo goes through a lot of oil. If i dont go for an oil change every 5000 miles it runs out. And the oil lite comes on. :(

    Also if you can suggest a reputable repair shop that wont screw me over that woudl be great too!

    thanks!
  • allhorizonallhorizon Member Posts: 483
    OK, here are a few things that may be helpful for you.

    Your transmission is still pretty new, and if I remember correctly, you also have a much better one than the older models. So I wouldn't worry about it, unless you know you have a serious problem with the transmission. Make sure it shifts into the highest gear relatively early at modest acceleration, and that the torque converter locks,i.e., rpms - the "20/30/40 thingy" - become in synch with speed under modest gas and no incline.

    Your engine may run a bit rich; starting problems like you describe most often in my experience happen with this engine if it was almost warmed up, then shut down abruptly and restarted very soon, again. At any rate, perhaps you need a new air filter or something else minor - if you haven't had your regular maintenance done in while, it may be time to do now. If your warranty is out, you have the choice of a reputable independent shop or VW. Take a look at this site for good dealers/ service places in your neighborhood. Unfortunately, although improving, the VW service network is still quite spotty. Independent shops can be excellent, too - ask around.

    Finally, never let your car run out of oil. Please check the oil at least once a month, and refill as necessary. Most older 2.0 engines run very well on 20-50 oil, and don't use any (or very little) between oil changes on that weight. You can't use 5-30 or anything close to that in this engine, especially if it is a few years old.
    Many shops, even VW service centers, don't know this.

    A few 2.0s had problems from manufacturing (e.g., piston rings installed upside down) that caused high oil usage, but you likely would have noticed in the first few thousand miles. For the most part, the 2.0 is almost indestructible. Mine has about 150,000 miles and is still going strong. Incidentally, since I have an older (=lighter) model and the manual transmission, it is quite peppy, too.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I can answer some of your questions....

    Running out of oil: The 2001 2.0L engine is KNOWN to have an oil-consimption problem. NEVER EVER allow it to get so low that the oil-light comes on. If allowed to happen too often ENGINE FAILURE IS IMMINENT!

    Folks with 2001 2.0L engine need to check and top-off the oil EVERY TIME THEN GASTANK IS FILLED....no exceptions.

    BTW: My daughter has a 2001 wiht 2.0L engine... she carries a quart of 5w30 in the trunk and keeps the oil topped up.

    revving when starting: Suspect the MAF (Mass AirfFlow) sensor. There is extended warantee on them from VW.

    Automatic xmission... The dealership is correct in that ONLY somone with computer can check the xmission fluid.

    It wont hurt to clean your snowscreen either.

    Here is a good place to research dealership service departments.

    I hope the above helps you.
  • allhorizonallhorizon Member Posts: 483
    At least, we had somewhat similar comments! ;)
  • genuinitygenuinity Member Posts: 4
    Than you so much for your comments. I totally appreciate it. my mechanic seems to think its my oxygen sensor - not sure if thats the same thing as a MIL. Definately going to take the memo that you attached to the dealership b/c i havent heard of it. Although it doenst surprise me - as much as i could love my car the dealership is the problem. they are horrible to deal with :(

    ne whoo thank you for all ur input i totally appreciate it. I'm in candada so im not sure if the memo is good here but im gonna give it a try.

    thanks again!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    In an effort to help clarify things for you

    MIL ==> Malfunction Indicator Lamp (the engine light on the dashboard)

    Oxygen Sensor ==> The O2 sensor is screwed into the exhaust pipe. It "sniffs" the exhaust gasses and reports its findings to the engine-computer . The O2 sensor is NOT used during startup and I would not expect it to affect your revving problem during startup.
  • gittisquaredgittisquared Member Posts: 4
    While driving at about 40mph my golf engine and power steering suddenly shut off. I managed to pull over and tried to restart, but if wouldn't. After waiting for over an hour for the tow to come the car finally turned on, although it turned on I did not trust it to get me home so I had it towed to the shop. Since it's the weekend I won't hear from them til monday. Does anyone have any idea what would cause this strange behavior?

    thanks :sick:
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    Something to do with the ECU (engine control unit or computer) since such a massive failure is rare. ECU's are generally programmed to go into "limp mode" before shutting down altogether; and before that the infamous check engine light comes on if the computer detects emissions problems.

    I had a 2001 Golf and very early on, in the first 3000 miles of driving, probably just the first 1000, the engine suddenly shut down completely while driving on the freeway. However, it immediatlely restarted (no need to work ignition switch). It was much like a computer crash but with an immediate reboot.

    I reported it to the dealer but there were no codes and I had no problems until 42,000 miles when I started losing power in the mountains. At first I thought it was vapor lock; it felt like that, like the engine was stumbling or missing unless I gave it a lot of throttle. Finally more severe symptoms manifested at regular altitude, and the check engine light came on. The dealer pulled codes indicating misfires, but could not diagnose the problem. At that point I was on the extended VW warranty, which is apparently much stricter in application than the original warranty, and the dealer told me they couldn't do anything further until they could actually duplicate the problem (the engine would start missing for them). I said I wasn't interested in waiting until I had to be towed in, and they had no response. I traded the car in on a different make shortly thereafter.

    Oddly enough I bought a 2005 Golf later on, since VW's are pretty good driver's cars with good safety equipment. Also, I was willing to cut VW the benefit of the doubt- they aren't the only maker with computer glitches. What annoyed me, of course, was their cavalier attitude to jumping on the problem and fixing it.

    Let us know what you find out. Yours is the closest I have heard to the problem I had. However, it may turn out just to be an ignition module failure, the turbos (I had a 2.0) had notorious coil on plug module failures. Still, it should have gone into limp mode.

    I kept the Golf 2005 for about 2000 miles but then had to trade it in as part of my downsizing from four cars to two.
  • gittisquaredgittisquared Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for your response. What do you mean by limp mode? I'm just worried the repair costs are going to be astronomical, hope it's something really simple like a dirty fuel filter.
  • genuinitygenuinity Member Posts: 4
    Okay, here is some more information with what Im going through with my car. When it stutters and stalls the power steering turns off and i can turn it a bit off the road until it just dies.

    This only does it when I am starting my car - and only happened once like a year ago while i was driving.

    too bad they didnt diagnose ur problem ...id love to know whats going on with my car...my mechanic thinks i need an new 02 sensor and im taking it into him tomorrow.
  • genuinitygenuinity Member Posts: 4
    sorry this should be an addition to my 2.0 GLS Problems.

    sorry
  • gittisquaredgittisquared Member Posts: 4
    Unfortunately my car apparently needs a new relay sensor and spark plugs...the repair is totaling over $500. I should have expected this, no car repair is ever less than $400. Hopefully this solves the problem. cheers

    ps. there should be an emoticon for pockets turned inside out.
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    Look at it this way. These days a "major maintenance" (30, 60 thousand miles, or 40/80 for VW) usually runs about $500 regardless of make. You are actually getting some real work done for that much money. At least your car doesn't have an undiagnosable problem - sounds like the fix is relatively easy.
  • eutzeutz Member Posts: 2
    Drove it to work yesterday never tried to start it again until 430pm and the vehicle would not start. It poured rain all day so thought wires were wet ( Damp). Came back the next day two people told me it sounds like timing belt. It just cranks over and you do here a pop back thru carb.

    We tried starter fluid and that didn't even get it to even sound like it was going to start. We have good spark and fuel. Does this sound like a timing belt?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I really hope you do not hear "pop back thru carb"... Volkswagen has been using fuel-injection since the mid-1970s.

    Since the vehicle was running when you turned it off... I would think that the Timing Belt did not change while it was sitting in the parking lot.

    Since you did mention rainy wether -- I would therfore suggest that the IGNITION SYSTEM is the most suspect component. (coils, wires...etc)

    How did you apply the "starting fluid" I really hope you did not spray it into the intake such that the MAF sensor was contaminated.... If so, you will be needing a new MAF sensor.

    I wonder how you checked for "good spark" ?
  • eutzeutz Member Posts: 2
    Check spark by screw driver and grounding. I said carb as even though it is fuel injected it was thru throttle body.
  • csandersoncsanderson Member Posts: 2
    Hi im currently having problems with my golf gti 1.8T after last week i took it for a service and when i got it back my ASR light stays on all the time and also my engine management light i think its to do with the same thing. i have taken it back to the garage and he thinks it something to do with the ASR switch he was ordering me one for mon its now thursday and im still waiting for him to call me. Can anyone give me any suggestions as to what may be causing this to happen.
  • jaimie123jaimie123 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone else had problems with the side bolster of the driver's seat collapsing? Any suggestions on how to fix it? My seat is flattened out on the left side due to the seat collapsing. Thanks!
  • playaj1playaj1 Member Posts: 1
    This one has really got me stumped. I recently bought a 97 Golf. I decided to change the spark plugs and wires because the old ones were worn down to the point where the car would struggle in acceleration. Now the car is amazing except for when idling. With the AC off the rpm's stay farely steady fluctuating just enough to notice while in the car without looking at the tachometer. But when i turn the AC off it goes nuts and goes back and forth between 500 and 1000 rmp. After doing this for a few seconds it stalls. When I unplug the mass airflow sensor it does better in that it wont stall but is still very jerky at idle untill I turn off the AC. What can i do!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Your engine is trying to maintain a steady idle... but is "thrashing" around because there is somthing not quite right. (The IAC (Idle Air Controller) can only compensate for so much.)

    You need to think about what the difference is when the AC is turned on. (HINT: Engine has more load on it and the onboard computer sets a higher idle speed.)

    Check for vacuum leaks and also check the IAC
  • rkbusenitzrkbusenitz Member Posts: 6
    I recently bought a 96 golf 4 dr. auto with 120M on it. Got a great deal, so I didn't mind that it needed a new catalytic converter. Replaced that, but the check engine light is now throwing out the code for a camshaft positioning sensor. I found that it was part of the distributor, and replaced it. However, I don't know how to clear the engine codes. Can anyone tell me what pins to jump to read the codes (how many blinks for each code) and how to clear the codes? Also, is there anything else I should replace if the camshaft positioning sensor still is reading bad? Thanks
  • 98golf98golf Member Posts: 1
    my 98 golf is havin' some real bad problems... it just doesn't start sometimes .. i've replaced the batt( put in a new yellow top in ) that didn't help then replaced the starter that wasn't it either.. it was runnin and starting fine until yesterday.. im confused and have no idea what's wrong with it can someone help .. thankz ... oh i am runnin a powerful system in it but i have a cap in there but if someone knows what's wrong with my baby let me know thanx ... peace
  • juliarjuliar Member Posts: 1
    We are thinking of buying a 1998 VW GL Golf for our kids. How do these cars hold up in an accident? Repairs...this car has 127,000 1 owner miles. Any help would be welcome.
    Thanks!
  • csandersoncsanderson Member Posts: 2
    Check out www.topgear.com that will tell you everything you need to know about any car.
  • jpmccormacjpmccormac Member Posts: 98
    RE: "We are thinking of buying a 1998 VW GL Golf for our kids. How do these cars hold up in an accident? Repairs."

    A LOT depends on how the previous owner maintained the Golf. VWs generally require careful attention to regular maintenance and strict adherence to VW standards. That said, the Golf is a sturdy car and will run for many more miles. And, its safety record is quite good. Check IIHS, Europes' NCAP or Consumer Reports crash tests.

    NCAP Test on 1998 Golf: http://www.euroncap.com/content/safety_ratings/details.php?id1=2&id2=46

    Get the current owner's repair/maintenance records and review them, then take the car to a good mechanic and have it inspected for wear and tear items - hoses, belts, timing belt change, A/T maintenance, fluid/coolant quality, etc.

    I assume the car has a 2.0L four cylinder. The 2.0 is sturdy but not fast - good for a young driver, I think. The 2.0 gets pretty good mileage. My '96 2.0L w/ A/T gets about 26 city, 30 highway.
  • orchidorchid Member Posts: 4
    Hello,
    I am a 2001 VW Golf owner, and I am very frustrated with the faulty brake light switch that the 2001 Golfs (and other Golfs manufactured around this time period) are equipped with. I have had my brake light switch replaced FOUR TIMES now, once for each year I have owned the car. It's costly, and frustrating to find myself stranded in park over and over again!!! Why doesn't VW do something about this problem?

    I am urging everyone out there who has experienced a similar problem to file a consumer complaint with the National Transportation and Highway Safety Administration. The NHTSA will investigate only if sufficient consumer complaints are received regarding a particular issue.

    The link to the NHTSA is:

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

    or, you can call 1-888-327-4236 to file a complaint.

    Thanks for reading, and drive safe!
  • benjaminrbenjaminr Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2002 VW golf and the EPC light comes on for me also, but when it does I am not able to move the gear shift. It rights itself but in its own sweet time.... I am taking it to my local repair shop Monday, but they are concerned they may need to refer me to a VW dealer as they do not have the software to diagnose the problem.
  • momentum1momentum1 Member Posts: 1
    can it be done to my golf 01
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The brake-switch problem HAS been corrected by VW by superceeding the switch with one that is more reliable.

    Your specific problem seems to be one of the following;

    1) Your dealership does not know the "trick" to installing a new switch and adjusting it properly.

    2) They are replacing the WRONG switch. (there are 2 switches on some vehicles)

    The proper corrective action for both of the above cases is the same ... have somone competent do the job!

    In neither case should your issue be attributed to VW. They have done their part in identifying the problem (faulty switch) and providing replacement switches free of charge.

    SURPRISE! There is already a listing for your described problem in the NHTSA!! (that is why VW has responded with free replacement of the brake-light switches)
  • alfmz3alfmz3 Member Posts: 14
    I have a Golf 2004 Aut. I think 2.o l is not enough for the weight of that car; but std is different.
    I'll buy a std one before it changes.
  • symarronsymarron Member Posts: 1
    Hi all! I'm looking at at at 05' GL 2.0 with 55 000 km (not quite sure what that translates into miles, perhaps 27 5 -30?) Just wondering pros/cons. How are they in the snow? On the highway? Any big problems? Just would like a more reliable car with more space and somewhere for the dog to hang out. Price is around $17 000.

    Thanks a bunch!
  • chrisando1chrisando1 Member Posts: 3
    Hello all,

    I was wondering if anyone had had a similar problem or can help.

    I am finding that my 97 Golf is stalling (in any gear/speed) after it has been turned off for a short peroid of time following an extended driving time (at least half an hour). it will run for several hundred meters and then stall. this will happen several times. the radio/lights remain on but the engine stalls.

    if i start the car after more than 30 minutes following driving i have no problem and can drive long distances. If i drive a short distance, stop the car for a short period of time then it restarts and then runs fine.

    it sounds temperature related, but there is plenty of coolant and the temperature guage is in the mid range. it has had a recent service
    and oil change (+ new sparkplugs) 300 miles (500kms) before the problems began.

    there are no clunking sounds and the engine when running sounds as healthy as always.

    i would greatly appreciate any help on this matter,

    cheers, chris
  • jerad566jerad566 Member Posts: 1
    Hi:

    I live in Phoenix AZ and I am looking for a good VW mechanic? Any ideas?
  • chrisando1chrisando1 Member Posts: 3
    i have spoken to my mechanic and he thinks that this is probably the crank angle sensor or the no. 30 relay.

    he is a VW specialist and usually spot on. he has fixed several 94-98 Golfs with similar problems and so it looks like this may be the money.

    hope this is of use. i will post again when i get the fix if it is successful.

    has anyone else had this part replaced?

    cheers, chris
  • leperfleshleperflesh Member Posts: 3
    My '05 GL automatic (12k miles) has been doing fine, but a few weeks ago I started it up and couldn't shift out of Park. I checked the startup routine: turn on engine, apply brake, take off parking break, shift. It just wouldn't budge. I kind of wrestled with the shifter for a while, pushing in the button repeatedly and stuff, and after a while it seems it fixed itself and I was able to shift. Things went smoothly.

    It happened again a week later. This time, though, while struggling with the shifter, the whole knob came off in my hand!

    Theres like, a shaft, and some kind of axial plastic thing in the middle that goes up inside the knob, and an outer chrome plastic sheath. I put the knob back on, pushed it down, and pulled the sheath up - it has bendy 'teeth' like things that grip the inside of the knob. Once I did that, it seemed OK and the car shifted fine.

    Twice since then the knob has come off in my hand again. Like, it's not really attached all that well anymore?

    Is this normal? e.g., should the knob come off easily if you pull upwards on it? Is there a simple easy fix (rather than waiting 2 weeks for an appointment at the dealer)? Is it dangerous?

    Thanks
    -L
  • makotomakoto Member Posts: 6
    the only vw mechanic in phoenix that anyone recomends is exklusiv mostor sports (www.exklusivmotorsports.com). it's on the north side of town.
  • makotomakoto Member Posts: 6
    how do you get a replacement brake switch free of charge? i had mine replaced in january which cost me like 120 bucks, and now it's failing again. i don't really feel like spending that money again - especially since it's only been like 7 months since i had it replaced before.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You only get ONE brake-switch installed for free when you have the recall-work done that covers it.

    Perhaps you need to chat with your service-advisor about your specific situation?

    As for the cost of the part... I just looked up the "brake light switch" on 2 seperate websites... it runs about $5 bucks. I know it takes about 10 minutes to install.

    Here is an example:
    http://www.tdiparts.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=brake+light+- - switch&x=4&y=11
  • allennefallennef Member Posts: 4
    3 niggly little electrical problems with my 97 VW Golf CL... has anyone had similar?
    1. Both front and rear indicators on drivers side flash very fast and very faintly when indicating a left turn. Bulbs are good. Right indicators are working fine.
    2. Intermittent windshield wiper has died, but other speeds are working fine.
    3. Hatchback door no longer opens with the electronic button key, however, it will open when I press the button in the glove box. All other functions (doors, alarm etc) on the electronic key still work.
    I know that the local VW dealer will charge me a fortune just to find out what might be wrong.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I can give you some troubleshooting hints... but cannot diagnose the problems for you.

    1. Remove all bulbs from LEFT circuit and re-install one at a time and try the left winkers each time. You may locate a bulb-socket that is defective.

    2. May be the switch itself... I have heard of these going bad. Also, intermittent wipers use an electronic timer. (while all other wiper speeds do not pass thru the timer)

    3. I have no clue... since all other thing seem to work - are you CERTAIN that you are HOLDING the button down to release the hatch? (releasing the hatch is the only function that requires HOLDING the button down for several seconds.)
  • brkdwnbrkdwn Member Posts: 3
    In fun, I recently replaced my heater core in my car--and at the time it was the only thing that was wrong. Once I had the dash completely reassembled my car would not start. When attempting to turn over, there was a clicking sound (starter relay?) followed by the cd player trying to eject repeatedly, then the alarm would click weakly trying to turn on, finally succeeding. I was told that if the battery was not fully charged this would happen. Charged the battery and it is doing the same thing. Any ideas since my reassembly was the reverse order of the removal?
    Thanks kindly.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I assume that you had the battery DISCONECTED while you had things torn apart. (if not... you may have fried some circuits or blown a fuse.)

    What you describe sounds like what we electronics folks call a "ground loop". Check all grounds to your dashboard to make sure they are all solidly connected. (Verify with ohmmeter to be less than 0.05 ohms to a "known good" body ground point.)

    Another way to troubleshoot ground problems is to monitor the VOLTAGE between a dashboard ground point and a "known good" body ground.... then attempt to start engine. The voltage should NEVER go above 0.25 Volts. I like to use a "peak holding" meter to catch spikes.

    Since you suggest that the radio is involved, one test condition may be the "radio case" -to- "body ground" using the above VOLTAGE test while starting.

    After you have done the above tests - I would be interested in what you found.
  • rosshamiltonrosshamilton Member Posts: 1
    mine is kind of breaking so i bought one but after reading the haynes manual i need an engine hoist to fit it because the engine drops when you remove the bracket. Anyone have any ideas how to overcome this or do i need to go to a mechanic?
  • turbobabyturbobaby Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I have a 2001 1.8T Golf, and I love it!!! Recently I have been having trouble, my car will not start up first thing in the morning. It will stall about two times and when I finally get it started, the engine will idle about 1000 rpms higher than the normal idle. After warming it up it runs great for the rest of the day. My check enging light has been on, the problems are; P0116 Enging Coolant Temp CKT Rang/Perf and P1296 Manfacurer(Not spelled wrong?) Contrl.Fuel Air Metering. I was just wondering if anyone knew exactly what part I should be buying. My brother said he would work on it but he is not used to German cars and he does not know where to start. Thanks to anyone who helps me along the way. P.S. I just recently replaced my water pump, thought the P0116 error would go away.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The first thing you need to understand that a "code" does not necessarrarrly translate into a "part you need to buy"

    The codes are just INDICATORS of situations that the onboard computer has identified. These indicators should be used as hints to help you diagnose a problem. The codes NEVER tell you what is wrong.

    Once you understand the above... you can start to narrow down on your problem.

    My suggestion.... consider investigating the engine-coolant-temparature sensor. These were KNOWN to have problems on the 2001s.

    Also consider looking into your MAF (MassAirFlow) sensor to make sure it is working as expected. There is a factory recall on the MAF for the 2001s.
  • mystic3mystic3 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 Vw golf 3 celebration 2.0l 5 speed. I just replace my plugs,dis cap, plug wires,and had to adjust the timing by 20 degrees, i also had to take off the cadillac converter because of the thing bogging down plus it was in bad shape. im not at all knowladgable about the sensor on the convertor. but i couldn't get the sensor out so the wiring was cut. now my car dies after giving the car gas. will i have to reset the computer or will i have to get a new sensor and reattach to the pipe. :cry:
  • jpmccormacjpmccormac Member Posts: 98
    If you don't get a quick or helpful reply here, you might want to post your question on these forums also:

    http://groups-beta.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled?gvc=2

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=3

    Good luck.
  • timinsydneytiminsydney Member Posts: 2
    I had my VW Golf II (1992) heater core replaced this week by the way. I had the same problem from initial cold starts and early morning stalls then it was okay for rest of day. Before we proceeded with the heater core job I was checking my vehicle out with a knowledgeable VW mechanic. He noticed an unusual clicking sound when the vehicle cold started. We weren't able to 100% trace it. It seemed to be coming from the computer (under the hood, far rear right just under hood). mechanic reckons it may be a faulty connection between the computer and it's large connector plug, possible short or whatever. thats where 'click' seemed to be coming from. Maybe check for click sound there.

    another thing to check out is your injectors and the injector seals. they may be dirty need cleaning or replacement. not sure of part number.
  • timinsydneytiminsydney Member Posts: 2
    I recently had my heater core replaced too in my VW Golf II (1992)

    Before we proceeded with this job I was checking my vehicle out with a knowledgeable VW mechanic. He noticed an unusual clicking sound when the vehicle cold started (not otherwise). We weren't able to 100% trace it.

    It seemed to be coming from the computer (under the hood, far rear right just under hood). peter reckons it may be a faulty connection between the computer and it's large connector plug, possible short or whatever. thats where 'click' seemed to be coming from. Maybe check there.

    Hope this incomplete information helps!
  • gregsgregs Member Posts: 1
    VW Canada has decided to bring back the Golf, and sell it along side the Rabbit. The rather amazing thing is that the soon to be available City Golf will sell for $3,600 (Canadian) less than it did in 2006, although it is substantially the same car. There will also be a City Jetta, also reduced in price.
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