VW Golf

vocus · January 2003

Someone on VWVortex lost their Dub this week. This one was hit at 50mph by a stop sign runner, spun around 3 times, and hit a Dodge Durango. The car is totalled, the driver walked away shaken up but that was all.

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=JettaDude&album_id=103437&image_id=21&courtesy=1

haemon · February 2003

I own an '01 Golf, GLS, 1.8T (4-Door). Does anyone's Golf produce a lot of squeaks and rattles from curious places? If so, how did you get rid of them? Will alloy wheels eliminate/reduce the problem

micweb · February 2003

I have a two door Gold and get a little rattling from the hatch cover. Any of the Golfs will be more prone to small noises due to the body construction style (empty box with no cross supports). The Jettas have all that cross body stuff in the package tray and back seat area to tie the body together. Do Jettas have noise problems too?

For what its worth, I just bought a 2003 Civic and it has a noisier rattle than anything I have experienced in 40,000 miles in the Golf.

BTW, be sure contents aren't rattling. It's amazing how many rattles I have found were personal contents in the glove box, trunk or hatch area.

cbnsoul · March 2003

I heard on another message board that the Golf V is coming in a year or two. Does anyone now anything more about it or if that's even true? I hate to get one now and then have a new body style come out 6 months later...Thanks.

adg44 · March 2003

...is the year for the Golf V.

There are no released pictures of it yet, however.

gmanzx3 · March 2003

I just purchased a 2003 Golf GL 2-door and I have a few questions.

1-The manual says 87 octane fuel is o.k. but the brochure I have says premium recommended. What does everyone here use?
2-Can I get an aftermarket, or better yet, a VW armrest? It would really increase the interior comfort.
3-Do all Golf's come with the first aid kit located in that rear compartment? Mine didn't have one and I just want to make sure it wasn't taken.
4-Does anyone know anything about the solar battery charger? It isn't talked about in the owners manual or any brochure.

Thanks, in advance, for any help on these.

revka · March 2003

and congrats on your new 2003 VW Golf!

"Can I get an aftermarket, or better yet, a VW armrest?"

While you're waiting here for feedback, you may also want to check out our VW Owner's - Accessories & Modifications discussion.

Good luck, and please keep us posted on your VW Golf experience. Thanks!

Revka
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Hatchbacks & Wagons

revka · March 2003

I just sent you an email and it bounced back. Please update your Town Hall email, so I can try again. Thanks!

Revka
Host/Hatchbacks & Wagons

midnightblack · March 2003

A friend of mine has been having an intermittent but serious problem with her 98 Golf GL: the transmission is stuck in Park. She is putting it into Drive in the normal way with parking brake off and her foot on the brake while trying to shift.

The problem seems to be more prevalent on colder mornings (temps below -5 F or -20 C), and even after running the car in idle for 30 minutes to heat it up she still is unable to shift out of Park into Drive.

This problem has left her stranded in the cold many times and its getting quite frustrating.

Has anyone heard of this problem on the Golfs and if so, what can be done to fix it?

rthsho · March 2003

Sounds like your friend needs a new clutch, but it may be as simple as to much "play" on the clutch cable.
Dunno if this is a weak point on the '98 Golf, what is the millage on the car?

vocus · March 2003

It's the brake switch. Common problem in Jettas and Golfs, and an easy repair.

To get out of Park when it gets stuck, turn the key on BETWEEN 'on' and 'lock' (not quite on, but inbetween the 2) then move the shifter to Neutral. It should be able to shift into gear then. This is a temporary fix until it gets to the shop.

Rthsho: The car is an auto, not stick. I think you thought it was a stick shift...

midnightblack · March 2003

You were right, vocus, the problem turned out to be caused by a faulty brake switch. It was easy to replace, and the part only cost $14 Cdn.

vocus · March 2003

Very common VW problem, you are about the 10th person on here to have the problem.

dapont · March 2003

From what I've been reading online, the new Golf V will be unveiled at the Frankfurt auto show September, 2003. Here's a link to what it might look like: http://www.3harts.nl/golfV/golfV3.htm

koutsavd · March 2003

Hi there, I just got a quote from my dealer's service department for $350 (parts and labor) for a mass flow sensor. Does this sound reasonable to you? Please let me know because I am fed up with the maintenance cost a my Golf... Cool car otherwise. Thanks in advance.

adg44 · March 2003

How many miles do you have and what year is it?

You said Golf, so I am going to assume you have a 2.0?

If so, a MAF for a 2.0 is about 45 dollars online. Labor takes less than 3 minutes.

koutsavd · March 2003

You are right, I forgot this info. It is a 2001 2.0L with 50K miles on it. If you can post the link that shows the price of the mass airflow sensor I'd greatly appreciate it. I would like to see their faces when I confront them with the price.!!!

dkexplorer · March 2003

Hi all,

I have a 2000 GLS. It is auto. trans. My question is: what is your experience with the battery life? The check battery light starting to come on in the morning quite often. However, I can still start the car after a few try. Is there somethiong worng, considering the battery has only about 36 months on it. Is this a common problem of the Glof?

Thanks.
DK

moparbad · March 2003

After 3 years you should replace the battery if you suspect it is causing a problem. Depending on climate and type of usage a battery can last as little as two years and as long as 10 years. I replace my battery every 4 years if it needs it or not. You can get battery at Walmart for less than $50 and it is quality battery. There are only 3 major manufacturers of auto batteries so among the many brands there are few major differences.

micweb · April 2003

I agree that WalMart batteries are a great deal - cheap, good cold cranking power, and installation (if you are patient enough for some overly busy Walmarts) is included in the low purchase price. I have put a couple into different cars and they seem fine - a Dodge Neon and a Honda Accord.

However, Walmart sells three grades of batteries - cheap, good, and premium - and the premium wasn't available for either of the cars. (The "good" battery did have significantly more cold cranking power than factory spec, however).

Also, fit didn't seem "factory perfect" on either car. The battery was securely mounted, but there was a gap around the battery tray that wasn't there before. The battery manuals on the shelf in the battery aisle confirmed that the mechanic had selected the right model in each case, but the fit wasn't "factory."

Does anyone know how batteries are sized? Does only the dealer have the "perfect fit?" I guess on my Golf I am more concerned about running everything factory spec.... When I was in for my 40k service this weekend, someone was trying to buy a VW brand battery, but the dealer was out of them. I was wondering why the customers were back ordering the battery instead of going to an independent retailer....

BTW Consumers Reports gave the WalMart batteries more or less middle of the road reviews, even though the manufacturer got top reviews for the batteries they made for some other outlets. The DieHards from Sears were almost always the top pick in every category, even though Sears has changed manufacturers over the years (so it isn't the special abilities of one manufactuer). I did note that even among the top rated batteries, the "winter" editions destined for colder regions of the country ranked significantly better than similar models destined for the sunbelt.

The other noteworthy thing I gleaned from CR was that there were not really any "bad manufacturers" but only "bad batteries." The same manufacturer was turning out top rated Die Hard batteries and low rated parts shop batteries.

micweb · April 2003

VW recommends 10-30, 10-40, 15-40 as well as gas saving 5-30 weight oil for pre 1999 Golfs. My 2001 calls for 5-40 or, "if not available," 5-30.

So what gives? Since 5-40 is not available here (although a common European grade, apparently)I ran 5-30 Mobil 1 for the first 40,000 miles. I was changing every 5,000 miles up to 25,000 miles, but started to worry about filter life (I use a Champion manufactured filter, formerly Supertech from Walmart and currently, now that Walmart is switching more to Fram, STP from Autozone). So I changed to every 3,300 miles starting at 25,000 miles, which shortens the drain interval but stays in tune with VW services at 20,000 mile intervals.

My car has always consumed about a quart of oil every 1200 miles (maybe a little more during breakin), so that means that in addition to the costs of oil changes, I have to add about 8 quarts of top off oil every 10,000 miles, which is another $40 if I use Mobil 1. I was getting my oil changes at Walmart, since a full synthetic oil change costs only $27, not much more than the cost of the oil itself, but I have had way too many instances of sloppy work from Walmart - oil on my visor and grab handles, oil spilled on the plastic engine shroud, the wrong weight oil used, a two quart overfill. And that's just on the VW. On top of that they used gasket sealer instead of a new crush washer on a recent Honda oil change for me, even after I asked them if they had crush washers. They mean well and have a very helpful attitude, but they just miss too many things.

So now I am considering buying Mobil 1 for $5.00 a quart from Walmart (or possibly switching to 10-40, which Costco usually carries at $4 a quart, as I recollect), and paying my Honda Express lube shop to install it for a $16 labor charge (very fair), which boosts the costs of an oil change to $41, plus the top off quarts, or I can change to a different oil.

So there are two contrary chains of thought going through my head right now - cheaper oil, higher viscosity oil.

Definitely in terms of conventional oil, I don't trust a 5-30 weight. My VW service advisor indeed recommended a thicker oil when I told him the speeds I hit driving to Las Vegas. I was thinking of a minimum of 10-30 (which is easier for a conventional oil to maintain) or even a 15-40 (I don't trust 10-40 in conventional oil due to the higher viscosity range). I once ran 5-50 Syntec in the car and lost about 3 miles per gallon in gas mileage, so I don't want to go the 20-50 route....

I have also read articles that suggest that "higher mileage engine" motor oils from Valvoline, Castrol, etc. are better than the current SL oils, not because of the extra seals protectors they contain, but because they contain more "antiwear" agents (like zinc?) that the car manufacturers don't like to see anymore in the engine oils used while they are still warranting the catalytic converter. (The next API designation is supposed to cut the antiwear agents in half; SG cut them in half before, and SL didn't make any changes in this regard.)

So I am considering three options: $3.00 a quart Supertech Full Synthetic from Walmart in 10-30 or 10-40 weight, reportedly a Pennzoil or Quaker State private labelled oil (I know Mobil 1 is the best, but think the 80 cent premium over branded "semi-synthetic" for "full synthetic" from Pennzoil might be worht it); Castrol GTX "High Mileage" in 10-30 for the extra wear additives (priced typically at $2.22 per quart, comparable to semi-synthetic); or Castrol GTX, which my dealer uses, and is almost always on sale for less than $1.25 per quart (Castrol for years has claimed to "exceed" all Japanese, European, and American manufacturer specfication "overlays").

Any thoughts? How about weight - what are you running- 5-30, 10-30, 10-40 (or 15-40)? Should I just bite the bullet and stick with Mobil 1 5-30 but maybe save a buck a bottle by giving up 5-30, which is unavailabel at Costco, and getting 10-30 or 10-40 instead? My current gas mileage is about 31 mpg, historically right around 30 mpg, but on 85+ interstate runs, can drop to 25 or 26 (I have a stick and it revs high). As I said above, 50 weight oil definitely cuts into gas mileage at operating temperartures, so I probably would prefer to stay away from 40 weight oils. The cold start portions of my drives are so negligible compared to the cruising portion, and I live in such a mild climate, that I don't think 5W or 10W will make a difference....

I have posted this here, and not in the oil list, since I think oil is a particular problem for VW's - because the car is so hard working (and hence working the oil hard), because VW owners really drive a lot faster and harder than Camry owners, and because the damn things inevitably consume oil....

adg44 · April 2003

With the special casing around the battery, I would stick with an OEM battery.

moparbad · April 2003

The "special casing" is just a plastic cover and it fits non-oem batteries. The Walmart battery and other batteries will fit with some minor modification required on the bottom lip of some of the batteries. The OEM battery from VW is extremely expensive and is poor quality for the price you pay. You can buy an Optima for less cost and a better to equal quality battery for 1/3rd the cost of the battery from a VW dealer.

revka · April 2003

Thanks for your feedback. ;-)

Revka
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Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards

moparbad · April 2003

I'm not saying the OEM battery from VW is a bad battery. Just that at $100-$200 that some dealers charge it compares poorly to a $40-$50 battery that is as good or better.

adg44 · April 2003

Have you taken out a OEM battery? They are somewhat rounded, not sharp edged like a walmart battery (I know, I have one in my 99 G20t). However with the way the OEM batter mounts, by a piece of metal that holds the battery down which is attached to the plastic battery tray, and the battery is specially deisgned for this. So unless some people want to start hacking away at the bottom of their battery with a dremel, you should get an OEM battery.

Also, the OEM batterys have that foam surround designed to go around them, and you'll have to cut off the plastic handles that are on the side of the walmart battery to get it to fit. Also, if this battery is a little taller or wider it won't fit. The individual fuses that attach over top the battery won't fit if you don't have the exact same size battery. Is this worth it for saving an extra $40 bucks? For most of the people here, I would have to say no. I get extra $40 because my sister bought a battery from the dealer in Ithaca, NY (middle-of-nowhere) for $90.

The 99.5-01 Golfs and 01.5-present Golfs have a different style battery casing - but the base is still the same, as pictured below.

- Anthony

P.S. - moparbad... I've asked you this before, and you haven't responded, but where are you getting your info from in response to G/J IV problems/DIYs?

moparbad · April 2003

Personal experience, mechanic, local VW club and members, national VW club and members.

moparbad · April 2003

Which size battery box do you have? Large or small? The handles on the Everstart do need to be removed.
A Diehard International battery fits better than the Walmart battery but with modifications the Everstart works fine.

adg44 · April 2003

I had the large one on my GTI (early 2001) and on my Jetta I have the small one. I actually prefer the larger battery box.

What's your national VW club? H2O?

I'm just saying, this isn't an enthusiast site so less people are going to want to hack up their battery and would rather just pay more for a factory one and drop it in, or even let the dealer do it for them. ($$$$!)

- Anthony

rickrover · April 2003

I have a small one on my 02 GTI and an X-large one on my 03 Jetta TDI wagon. Makes me wonder how many different sizes of boxes there are for a Mk IV VW. I doubt VW would charge much for a different size battery box in the parts dept.

golfer94080 · May 2003

What needs to be done for the 60k service on a '99 Golf? Does anybody know what it runs from the dealer.

Also, I have the original brakes on this car. How much longer can they last? I'm sure they will need to be done on all 4 wheels once needed. What's the cost of that?

thanks

8u6hfd · May 2003

Details of the service can be found in your owner's manual in the maintenance section.

Alternatively, go here
http://www.vw.com/SP/SchedMaint.html

revka · May 2003

To 8u6hfd - Thanks!

Also, just so people are aware, manufacture-recommended service schedules can also be found in Edmunds' Maintenance Guide. Just plug in the make, model and year of your vehicle. Good luck.

Revka
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Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards

8u6hfd · May 2003

your welcome

debijon · May 2003

My 2000 GTI VR6 developed a new problem. The portion of the dash display that shows outside temp, gas mileage, trip mileage, etc. is now very difficult to see in daylight (normal daylight, not direct sun) I suspect it is a problem with a light sensor... detecting how bright it is and adjusting....in this case not adjusting. I took it to the dealer. $800.00 to remove the dash and replace the module. I also now have the rear hatch lock issue... can't open it with the key $200.00 to replace the core. Since neither is that major of a problem for me, I won't be spending $1000.00. Has anyone had similar problems and were they resolved by the dealer. Still a great car...

revdrluv · May 2003

$800?!?

Sounds like a DIY project to me

aspace · May 2003

Hello Everyone,

I have recently purchased an 03'Silverstone GTI 1.8T. So far, so good- my wife and I love the car.
Our ancient Neon is dying an we were considering a purchase of a new/old never-been-driven 02' Golf 4-door GLS(?) -correct me if my designation is wrong. Can I expect the infamous coil problem to surface? Should we purchase a new 03'Golf with less features instead?

revka · May 2003

and congrats on your recent VW Golf purchase!

You may also want to post any concerns/questions you have regarding ignition coils in our VW Ignition coil problems discussion.

Others here may have more to add.... Good luck, and please keep us posted on your ownership experience.

Revka
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Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards

micweb · May 2003

The standard Golf engine, if that is what you are getting (likely in the GL and GLS models) is not so equipped (with coils on spark plugs) and therefore has no such problems.

hpyouth · June 2003

This may be a stupid question, but does anyone know why they have the symbols next to the dash air vents lighted in jettas, but not on golfs? Seems stupid to me, plus I hate fumbling with those things at night when I am driving.

8u6hfd · June 2003

VR6 isn't coil-on-plug either.

uga91 · June 2003

Workers are on strike...
http://www.autonews.com/article.cms?articleId=44189

moparbad · June 2003

All Golf and GTI models for North America are made in Brazil. No strike there.

8u6hfd · June 2003

the engines, body stampings, etc are made in Germany

dkexplorer · July 2003

the MAF and Temperature sensor went out on my Golf. The cost to fix is $ 260. I am starting to concern if this may became a recurring issue. By reading the message board, it seems MAF, O2 and temp. senors are common problems. If this is such a common problems, is there any recall by VW? Any one experiences recerring problems for these parts? Thanks.

dkexplorer

adg44 · July 2003

www.vwparts.com

You can get a MAF for a 2.0 for about 50 bucks, and install it yourself in about 5 minutes.

The O2 sensor is easy also if you have a set of jackstands and the proper tool.

haemon · July 2003

Hey everyone. As I am sure a lot of you have experienced, my Golf ('01, GLS, 1.8T) has a lot of squeaks and rattles. The dealership is hit or miss in terms of diagnosing and fixing the squeaks and rattles. Does anyone have any tips about correcting the squeaks and rattles?

One thought I had was possibly adding a sport suspension, which would of course give the car a stiffer ride. Does anyone have any thoughts on whether adding a sport suspension would reduce (or eliminate) squeaks and rattles? (By the way, I just added new tires/wheels which I think has helped.)

fish8 · July 2003

I have a 2002 Jetta and also have rattles. Adding a stiffer suspension or adding more performance oriented tires will only highten your rattles. The only reason I can think of for less rattle from newer tires is increased road noise would drown out the rattles.

micweb · July 2003

My 2001 Golf has been free of squeaks and rattles - but there is some noise from the hatchback area.

Generally, before blaming the car, it is a good idea to completely empty out the glove box and trunk, then ask a friend to ride in the back seat to try to listen for the noises.

One time I thought I had a noise coming from the front, and instead it was my club rattling on the rear seat belt. It's hard to isolate noises and their directions while driving.

This is not to say the VW won't make noises. All cars do; it's the last, most difficult quality and design area that manufacturer's face. But try eliminating the "obvious" first - the glove compartment, things rolling around, etc. Then if a friend can isolate the noise, you are in real good shape for complaining to the dealer or to VW.

adg44 · July 2003

It's pretty normal..... try some tire dressing or silicone spray on the weather stripping - it will help it.

Eventually it will go away, mine did after about 40,000 miles.

I can't complain though, even with my suspension, wheels, stereo, exhaust, etc, that car was rattle free when cruising.

- Anthony

VW Golf

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