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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)



  • jkidd2jkidd2 Posts: 218
    The Daily Auto Insider
    Top Choice of Thieves: Acura Integra
    March 15, 2001
    Page 1 of 1

    The Acura Integra was the most frequently stolen 1999 model-year vehicle during calendar year 1999, according to a National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) preliminary report. The report is based on vehicle thefts reported to the Federal Bureau of Investigation and auto-production reports filed with the Environmental Protection Administration.

    Almost two of every 100 Integras from model-year 1999 were stolen in that year, nearly double the rate for the number two choice of thieves, the Mitsubishi Mirage, the NHTSA said.
    Of the 201 vehicles rated for theft frequency, the Plymouth Neon and Dodge Stratus came in third and fifth place. The Mitsubishi Montero was fourth. The theft rates for those vehicles range from 0.85 to 0.9 per 100 cars produced.

    The NHTSA report said total thefts of 1999 models during 1999 amounted to 2.89 per 1,000 vehicles. That rate was 14 percent more than the 2.53 per 1,000 1998 vehicles during 1998.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    Not just the '99 Integras, all g3 Integras from '94 on up are the most frequently stolen cars! 3 of my friends have had their GSRs stolen in the past year and 2 of my friends' Type-Rs. They were all stolen from their driveway at home while they were sleeping. It's really sickening. I say if you don't have a garage or other cars to block your teg in your driveway, don't bother owning one. I have a garage but my wife has filled it up with junk. So I park my Civic behind the GSR and then my wife's Galant behind that. If they want it, they 'd have to break into 2 other cars plus cut the club in the GSR, and hopefully by then I 'll hear something or they won't even try considering it 'll take too much time for them to do everything. I also make sure I 'm not followed home when I drive the GSR and don't have food deliveries at the house.
    The best thing you can do, is not give your home address when you go for an oil change or a repair. Most of the time the thieves are either grease monkeys or give out your address to their friends or other car thieves for a few bucks. I just don't give anyone my address, they don't need it and you don't have to give it out.
  • bmann2bmann2 Posts: 2
    The after market for Integral has to be one of the largest of any. The fattest and cheapest way to gain a lot of power is Nitrous, correctly installed by professionals of course. Why spend $1000 on Intake, Header and Exhaust (plus installation) for a 15 up gain when you can get a NOS kit for $500 for a 70 up gain? True, forced induction will compromise the reliability of the engine (severely) but then if you were primarily concerned about reliability then you'd leave the car stock. LS/VTEC also has shown great gains in power but is relatively new, expensive and often done incorrectly from what I hear (leading to a lot of "grenading"). In my opinion, save up for a turbo kit (or supercharger kit, if you don't have a g2 Integra like me) and build up the engine for high pressure.

    Theft depends on geography. Even though the Integra may be the most stolen car in the country, mine's never been broken into or stolen in the 3 years that I've owned it in Milwaukee (downtown/eastside). In other cities, like Appleton WI, I almost wouldn't even worry about leaving the doors unlocked. Almost. But it depends where you live.
  • exsailorexsailor Posts: 8
    Im planning to buy my son a 1997 Integra LS 3 DR Hatchbackwith 48000 miles. With the following goodies AC, Moon Roof, 6 disk CD, new tires, Not familar with Intergras. Asking price is $10,000 the test drive is great seems no major problems excepts lil dings here and there. I would like to know if this is a good price. KElly BB asking price is bout 14500. What ya all think. Advice appreciated. Thanks
  • crikeycrikey Posts: 1,038
    I agree with both only1harry and bmann2. Although vehicle theft frequency is based on geography, it does help practising preventive measures like only1harry said. Making it harder to steal the car is a good deterrent. However, if someone is hell-bent on stealing it, they will steal it.

    And it's always best to keep cars in garages, instead of junk in the garage. Remember, when someone sells a house, they measure the garage on a per car basis, like 1-car, 2-car or 3-car garage, not a 20-box, 30-box, or 40-box garage. IMO, if you cannot park your vehicles in the garage, then you either have too many vehicles or too much junk that you can live without.
  • pocahontaspocahontas Posts: 802
    here's that Acura Integra theft report from's news: Acura Integra hottest car with thieves in '99: report. If you don't have a garage, an alarm is a good idea. IMO

    Hatchbacks Message Board

  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    Alright! See, I wasn't making this stuff up :-)

    The Koni Yellows is the best non-custom valved shocks you can have for auto-xing and racing in general. And like I had said before, you can adjust the rear ones so you get slight oversteer and eliminate understeer. The only thing is though, if you 're running stock (GS I assume) class, the shocks alone are not enough to beat a Prelude SH or an Eclipse/Talon AWD turbo. The Prelude SH performs very well in auto-x (with a good driver) and 3-wheels on command. The DSM turbos are just too fast and get excellent traction with the AWD. You should be able to do very well though with some R compound tires. Still, even without the Type-R and TT in G Stock, the GSR in stock form is still not one of the leading cars in GS. A BMW 328i with Konis and R tires can kill a GSR as well as the others I mentioned above. In the absense of these 3-4 cars, your GSR will kick butt (you 'll have A4s for breakfast). Just make sure you get another set of wheels with R tires or just get R tires. VW VR6 is also a formiddable opponent. Good luck with your new shocks!
  • fjm1fjm1 Posts: 137
    a GSR. I have an LS. The class I would be in for stock have GTI's and Prelude S. Both formidable. Eclipse and Talon would be non-turbo. Also Del Sol and 240SX. Stiff competition but close enough match that a Teg LS might squeek out a few regional wins if I ever learn how to drive.

    Anybody know about driving schools in the N.J., N.Y. and PA areas?

    Pocohantas: Why can't I see the post I did yesterday? I didn't swear or berate anyone, honest!
  • pocahontaspocahontas Posts: 802
    Your post included some very valuable information, but unfortunately, it had to be deleted because of one word that's not within the guidelines of our terms of use. Recently all hosts were given a word list, so we have specific guidelines we have to follow... in terms of what's allowed. There is an explanation in the email I sent you. Okay?

    For your convenience, I did copy/paste your post onto the email, so you can re-edit it and post it back into this discussion. Feel free to email me if you have any further questions. Thanks for your participation. ;-)

    Hatchbacks Message Board
  • fjm1fjm1 Posts: 137
    This is a repost (out of sequence) because I did swear. Smack. Sorry Pocahontas, et al.

    Put in the yellows myself last weekend. Have had several days to test them out and here is my .02 on install and performance:

    Install: If you've got a floor jack, jack stands, and a spring compressor it is not very
    hard to do. I had the left rear control arm bushing freeze on me so I had to get a new bushing and press it in. If that had not happened I could have replaced all 4 struts in about 5 hours. The bushing replacement took me an extra 2-3 hours. The shocks come with pretty good instructions but you will need the car's shop manual as well for install/removal. Oh yeah, you will need a big drill bit to bore out the dust
    cover hole as the Konis are larger diameter than stock.
    I did use the stock springs but set the Konis spring perches for lowering springs. The stock springs had to be slightly compressed but ride height has barely changed. I haven't noticed any unusual rebound or handling characteristics using
    this setup. I stayed with stock springs so I could Autocross in Stock class.

    Performance: Wow. Response and control are dramatically increased even on softest settings. On softest setting ride comfort and noise are better than stock. My ideal settings are 3/4 turn (40%) up front and 1 turn (55%) at the rear. Now if I pre-load coming into corners I can get the rear to swing out just a bit. Helps defeat cronic understeer.

    I've gotta thank Harry for giving feedback. You helped me out alot. I often find it hard to justify extra cost/benefits versus some cheaper parts. I can say I think I made the right choice with your help.
  • I'm installing a set of Koni yellows today and Saturday. I saw the instructions about the drilling of the dust cover, and everything else looked straightforward. I installed H&R OE Springs myself so these should be no problem...5 hours I'm estimating.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    One word of advice but it 's up to you to test it out: I found that 3/4 of a turn up front was a little too stiff for auto-x. I 'm at about 1/2 turn now and 3/4 in the rear. 50% or more stiff in the back and the tail was coming out a lot when auto-xing. BUT, I have an aftermarket sway bar and stiffer springs in the back, as well as a rear upper tie bar, you don't. So probably all the extra stiffness in the rear made my car oversteer more. You may not have this problem because your rear is pretty soft stock. Also when I went 3/4 (also tried 1 full turn in the front) my car pushed too much and caused it to understeer or react much slower in the slalom and I couldn't go through the slaloms fast enough (same if your rear is too stiff, the tail comes out and my car would go through the slaloms sideways!). Anyway, I found that around 30% firm in the front made the car much more agile (added a tiny bit of body roll and a little more shock travel but it was fine and it improved my times) and I was able to take the slaloms and all turns much faster as far as response and speed goes. It made a big difference that 1-2 red lines on the knob (from 3/4 down to 1/2 turn). The car became very neutral with no understeer or oversteer which is when I first experienced the 3-wheeling. 3-wheeling is a good sign that your car is pretty well balanced and doesn't push or fishtail on the turns. Of course if you go too fast on the turns or brake too late, the whole car will slide sideways, which is why with every run you push the car harder to find its limits on the turns and slalom (usually there is 1 or 2 slaloms somewhere in the course, usually around the begining and the end). But I have a different suspension setup than you so my settings may not work as good for you. You also have a smaller front sway bar than a GSR and no front upper tie bar. LS/GS have a 22mm front sway. GSRs have 24mm front sway bars, so it looks like you would need a bit more firmness on the Konis to compansate for that. After about 1-2 weeks the Koni shocks settle as well so you may need a wheel alignment (the race shop advised of this as well). I noticed after 2 weeks I had more negative camber in the front but I didn't mind because the car handled better when auto-xing. A little extra negative camber doesn't hurt and improves handling. I eventually got a wheel alignment after about 1-1.5 mos. Racing makes the whole suspension of the car settle more rapidly than others.. Get some good ZR tires or R tires. That's probably the most important mod for auto-xing.
  • Yes, the GS/LS has a 22mm front sway bar. The GSR's is 24mm, plus the GSR has an upper strut bar (Acura calls it a strut brace) AND a front lower tie bar (Acura calls it a performance brace). For 2001 though, all Integras have the same stock sway bar diameters...24 front, 13 rear.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    about the front lower tie bar that the LS/GS doesn't have. I thought '98+ Integras have 14mm rear sway bars. 13mm was pre-98. Anyway, 13 or 14, they 're still tiny.
    I bet they put the same diameter bars on LS/GS as the GSR because they need all the help they can get to sell them! This is the 8th year of production with a new model coming out in 2 months. I bet you can get an LS really cheap right now, under $17K shouldn't be a problem. Beats a Civic EX that sells for $16k.
  • the GSR's rear is 14mm, the LS/GS had a shade under 13mm...12.something.
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Harry, just curious what are your experiences with the VW GTI VR6 at the track and anywhere else. How do those that auto-x hold up? If deciding between that and a GS-R what would do (beisides smiling to yourself)? Thanks.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    Well when I first started racing in G Stock my car was totally stock and had the factory street tires. The only 2 VW VR6s that were there were in GS with race tires so they would beat me by about 1 to 1.5 sec. Now I was a novice then and these guys weren't. These were older VR6s like '94-95 models. The older VW VR6s were lighter than today's VR6 ('99+) and slightly faster. Today's VR6 is kinda heavy and weighs around 3,000lbs. The VR6 is not a bad car for auto-xing because it has good low end torque which you need at low speeds to exit the turns fast but it's weight also makes taking turns fast very tricky. Stock to stock the VW VR6 should be slightly faster than a stock GSR but it also depends on the course. On a very low speed course I try to stay in 1st gear as much as I can because the GSR is very fast in 1st gear courses, it takes off and exits turns like a bullet. If it's a low 2nd gear course where the GSR doesn't go like above 6500rpm, the VW usually has the upper hand because it has as much torque or more at 3K RPM, etc. Modified GSRs though with R tires, a bigger sway bar and a good set of springs & shocks or coilovers will beat a 2900-3,000lbs VR6 becase of the weight advantage. The suspension mods for VW and Integras are very similar and many use the same components/brands of aftermarket parts (Neuspeed, H&R, Tokiko, Koni, etc.) The only thing I 've seen that's bigger on a VW is the rear sway bar which can go up to 24-25mm, where most modified GSR's have 21-22mm. But again due to the extra weight of the VR6 a bigger than 22mm sway bar is justified where the lighter Integra can get away with 19-22mm ones. Weight plays a big role in auto-x which is why CRX, Miatas and MR2s are some of the best auto-xers in the Street Prepared classes. They only range from 100-130hp but can kick the crap (even in Stock form) out of any VW and GSR and sometimes do better than Type-Rs. Imagine if you took the same mods you have on a GSR or VR6 and put them on a 1950lb CRX or 2200lb Miata. It's a no brainer.
    I 'd say if you 're going to race in a Stock Class get the VW VR6 but this is not to say that the VW VR6 dominates the G Stock class. Stock Preludes (base and SH) usually destroy the VW VR6s. The WRX with 227hp AWD is also going to be in GS this year (to test it out, they move it out if it does too well). Eclipse/Talon Turbo AWD will always beat a VW VR6 in G Stock with equal drivers. BMW 328i with R tires usually beat the VW VR6 as well. Type-R and TT (if they 're still in GS, they 're supposed to be moved up to DS) usually destory all others in GS. So what I 'm trying to tell you is that the VW VR6 has a lot of competition in GS which is why most GSRs and VWs get out of that class and go to Street Prepared or Modified classes to compete better. In DSP where I run I 've only raced against 4cyl. GTIs and have beaten them. No VR6 yet.. I 'm not sure if the VW VR6 is in DSP, gotta look into that.
  • pocahontaspocahontas Posts: 802
    be sure to check out's True market Value Deals of the Week for information on the 2001 Acura Integra LS 2dr Hatchback. Happy Shopping. ;-)



    Hatchbacks/Station Wagons Message Boards

  • basher55basher55 Posts: 1
    Has anyone here ever drove cross country with their integra. I want to drive to New Jersey from San Diego (2800 miles). I will be in Nj for a few months and want a definate source of transportation instead of sharing cars with my family. Is this a dumb idea?
  • pocahontaspocahontas Posts: 802
    For those interested in discussing the 2002 Acura RXS, please join us in this new discussion: Acura RSX (2002). See ya there! ;-)



    Hatchbacks/Station Wagons Message Boards

  • I guess we'd all have to understand the context in which you're asking your question: If you're asking it in a reliability context, I've taken my '90 Integra across the country twice (Atlanta--S.F--Atlanta) with no problems whatsoever -- it's a SuperCar. If on the other hand, you're asking security/anti-theft wise, I can't answer your question.
  • I'd mentioned this problem in an earlier post:

    My car's foot well carpet gets wet on the passenger's side and creates a nasty, musty smell. More than a few sources have suggested that there's a plugged A/C reservior (leaves??) behind my firewall and to flush the exterior "drop-down" tube by forcing either air or water upwards through the tube and blowing whatever the obstruction is away...

    This is a good idea, but I have two questions:
    1) How large is this reservior? Coffee cup-sized? toaster-sized? The reason I ask this is that I need to know approximately how much water to expect to flow out (presumably along with other "gunk") in order to gauge success.

    2) As opposed to water or air, does anyone see a problem with stuffing, say, an oil dip stick up the tube and clearing it that way?? This seems a much more direct/effective approach to solving this problem.

    Thanks in advance,
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    I don't see a problem with sticking a wire in there but make sure it's clean and not sharp. You don't want to cut or pierce anything!
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    I don't see why it would be a problem to drive the Integra from West to East coast. I 'm not sure I understand your question. If you 're going to spend a few months in NJ, you might as well have a car to get around. Public Transportation is not that great in Jersey, only if you 're going into NYC, then it's ok but even then, buses only run till about 11pm. Drive your car to Jersey and have fun. Go to the Meadowlands Stadium on Saturdays and I 'll probably be there auto-x racing in parking lot 5 or 6.
  • fjm1fjm1 Posts: 137
    Put on new Kevlar brake pads. EBC Redstuff up front and Greenstuff out back. Very sticky. Putting on the Greens (higher friction rating and lower action temp) allowed for better rear braking bias. It always seemed that my Teg relied to heavily on the front causing it to lock up sooner than I would expect. Could have been brake booster or balance controler I'm thinking. Well when I put on these new pads the braking balance evened out.

    Stops like a dog on a chain now. No squeeling and no dust. Pricey though. $60 for front set and $50 for back.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    I got AXXIS Metal Master Pads all around. Paid $%$55 front and $35 rear. Car stops really well. The AXXIS do dust a little, and I know EBC Greens dust too! Just wait a couple of days and then look at your rims. A few of my friends had the EBC greens and they all dusted. BTW, be careful, the EBCs heat up the rotors really well so don't keep your foot on the brake pedal at a stop light and don't use the parking brake after moderate-heavy breaking or you 'll warp your rotors. Cool them off evenly all around..
    BTW, I also got Brembo rotors on all 4 corners (OE diameter, not the big ones). Car stops about 10ft shorter from 60mph.
  • shteveyshtevey Posts: 4
    I've inherited a '93 gs-r with about 280,000 kms on it. What are the best things to do in order to restore it's performance and fuel economy?
  • As my endless search continues, I just came across a 95 Integra GSR. White, black cloth, nice little car. Its got 92K miles on it, and they guy will take 8500 for it. Edmunds has private market at 8300 or so for this car. I thought this was an ok deal, since these cars don't seem to be too common. Do you think this is a fair price or a good deal, or....? Also, how is this car's insurance? DO you all find it higher that average? Any problem areas? Anything else to look at when considering this car?
  • fjm1fjm1 Posts: 137
    Thanks for the advice harry. Gotta disagree though, haven't seen hardly any dust. Haven't been babying it either. Did my brake bed in routine of running the car up to 70 mph or so and clamping full force. Run. Repeat. Several times.

    shtevey: Restore performance? That's not that many miles for an Acura, you shouldn't have to do much to the engine to be getting peak performance. Change plugs, rotor, wires, fluids, etc. normal wear items. Then rev the snot out of it! If your not farmiliar w/Honda/Acura don't be afraid to rev high. They thrive there.

    charlestonguy: Make sure they changed the timing belt. Usually they do the water pump at the same time.

    If the seller cannot prove to you beyond a reasonable doubt that the timing belt has been changed you need to evaluate the car as if it were abused/neglected. Take it to a Acura dealer or mechanic and have them check it.

    How can I say that it's been neglected if the timing belt hasn't been changed? Easy, grab the owners manual and check out the service interval for the timing belt. 75K if memory serves me right.

    Overall, it's hard to go wrong w/used Acuras and Hondas. Insurance is higher though.
  • uge123uge123 Posts: 100
    I'm sad. I have to say goodbye to my formerly trustworthy 90 Integra GS. We've had 126,000 decent miles together. She hasn't been perfect, though. I had to replace the clutch at 75,000 miles, and I'm not that agressive a driver. The ABS has been acting funky ever since she turned 100k miles. Fortunately, they work anytime it's humid (i.e. raining or snowing) but die when it's dry. My mechanic and the dealer mechanic couldn't find ANY electrical faults or problems. The brakes are in decent condition but may only last another 10k or so.

    However, I had two major failures in one week, and one could have killed me. The first was no big deal. The first was a ignition coil failure, while I was on the inbound express lanes during rush hour, no less! That was replaced for about $200. The second was catastrophic. I had JUST gotten off the highway and was driving up the parking garage when the left front end collapsed and the car skidded sideways with a metallic screech. At first, I thought that I had a catastrophic tire failure and that I was riding on a rim. On closer inspection, I noticed that the left front wheel was completely disengaged from the steering mechanism and suspension and was sitting askew in the wheel well. I shudder to think what might have happened if this occured 5 minutes earlier on the highway.

    My mechanic showed me the failed part later. It was a failed front ball joint which then cracked the left drive shaft. Apparently, this is a sign of old age for a car. It's just a matter of time before the right one goes as well. This car has been well maintained, by the way. I've taken it for all its major scheduled maintenance and oil changes. However, it did get parked on the Chicago city streets for 4 years in a row, though snow and salting.

    After reading so many testimonials of the "little car that could" I have to wonder if my car was a dud. I used to think that it was nearly invincible but not so anymore. I can't afford the risk of another serious failure. So I am trading the car in for something new. Any thoughts?
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