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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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  • swynnswynn Posts: 5
    Is it possible they just changed the name from Frost White to Taffeta White? if you go to the acura.com website and "build" an Integra online, Taffeta White is an option for the GSR. There is also a 2001 white GSR listed on the inventory for the dealership I bought my silver GSR from (www.proctorcars.com).
    I didn't know the silver was available on the GSR in Canada. It's interesting the little differences there are between the cars here and there, even if it doesn't always make sense.
  • himilerhimiler Posts: 1,209
    There were two GS-R's on the lot when I shopped-- one red, one white. Both '98 models.
  • surreal2surreal2 Posts: 7
    i need a late model, reliable, rasonably sporty car to replace my rusting and quieky crx si. i wanna get an integra, but i fear rust in the future. i am the kinda guy who likes old cars, but right now i wanna get a newish car and grow old with it, so i can keep my eye on stuff. am i going to be fighting a rust battle with a teg 10 years down the line? i live in nj, and i know that's a factor.

    basically, are late model integras cursed with the cappy sheet metal that most other hondacuras have been plagued by? i really like the teg, spec-wise, but i fear i'll buy something else if rust is likely to become a problem...

    tia,
    rob
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    have a rust problem after 10yrs if it is not garaged? If you garage your Integra, wash it (the salt off) and wax it regulary, it should go 15-20yrs without any rust. If you leave it outside for 10yrs to bake in the sun in the summer and be covered by mounts of snow every winter, then I don't think you 'll get more than 10-11yrs out of it before it starts to rust. It is how you take care of your cars that 'll give you an idea of how the exterior will look 10yrs down the road. I 've seen '90-91 Integras that look really good and are in very good shape, and then I 've seen '95 GSRs that were faded and didn't look too hot. I 'm thinking of getting a car cover to protect the paint from the hot sun because my wife won't let me use the garage but instead stores junk in it. It 's up to you and how much TLC you put into the car that will decide it's rust fate. Otherwise the Integras rust just like any other car. My friend has an '87 Porsche 928 that's starting to rust now. So if a $60k (that's money then) german sports car can rust after 14yrs, then it would be perfectly normal for a $17-20k Integra to rust in less time than that. Of course the Porsche didn't have to rust. It was negligence that led to that.
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • surreal2surreal2 Posts: 7
    no cars round here rust like honda products. i wont have access to a garage for at least 2 years. (still a student.) anyway, i am seeing 92-95 civics and pre 1994 tegs rusting like mad, yet most cars of similar age by different carmakers arent showing the rust yet. i realllly want an integra, but im scared of the rust. i think its odd that i see early 80's vw rabbits with crappy old paint but little or no rust but mid 90's civics with LOTS of rust in the rear wheel well. i guess i can treat the interior side of the metal with a rustproofing substance, but that may prove to be a pain in the butt. right now, im up in the air between a 94+ teg or an impreza outback. i havent seen the 'preza's rusting, but theyre slower and heavier and get worse fuel economy. plus, tegs look nicer imho and i like honda reliabilty. it's the rust that frightens me. and ive not seen a 1990's car rusting more than hondacuras are, around here.

    does anyone know if theyre using better stuff to treat the finish of the third gen integras?

    -rob
  • himilerhimiler Posts: 1,209
    This year, my '96 LS will be driven for its 5th winter on NY's INCREDIBLY salty roads (which are known for their ability to eat cars). The only trouble it has shown is a small (nickel-sized) surface rust spot on the rear hatch, right by the keyhole.

    The biggest trouble spot common to all Honda cars seems to center on the area in the rear wheel wells where the rear bumper attaches. Nearly all of the rusting Hondas I see have this trouble.

    Neither of my Acuras have this problem, however, because I use a power washer to carfully spay this area out whenever I wash the car. You have to pull down the wheel well liner to get to it, but it's worth the effort.

    As long as you take care of paint chips and other surface damage, G3 Integras are very resistant to corrosion. In my extensive travels, I have yet to see a '94 or later rust bucket.
  • surreal2surreal2 Posts: 7
    anyopne else wanna weigh in with their experience?

    if things go well, as far as my rust researh, i'll be looking for a used gsr soon.

    tia,
    -rob
  • I have had my 1992 Integra LS almost nine years, all except one or two WITHOUT a garage. I live in the midwest. It has endured wonderfully. I am just now getting small portions of surface rust that if I had caught them sooner a good waxing might have saved. They are behind the wheels on the rear. Less than one inch long.

    That being said, what is a fair asking price on a 1992 LS, one owner, 77xxx miles, 5 speed, in near immaculate condition?

    I am trying to sell and upgrade to a TL. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
  • jgpjgp Posts: 7
    My 1990 Integra LS has began hesitating a bit when I let out the clutch and step on the gas in first and second gear. It won't do this after about 15 minutes of driving. Any suggestions on maintenance? I have already tried gas treatment and cleaning the spark plugs.
  • himilerhimiler Posts: 1,209
    Might be the Oxygen sensor making the mixture too rich when the engine's not fully warmed up. If you are still on the original sensor, it might be worth changing it, anyway.
  • woody24woody24 Posts: 59
    Hey guys,
    I could use some help. My wife was involved in a solo car accident, at about 65, on one of our freeways here in CA. It's a 94 integra. It produced some front end damage with some rear end minor damage. Insurance says they can repair it for $7500. The repair will require a used right side front end (chasis / front clip?).
    Insurance (allstate) says we can have the car repaired, or take the car back and take the $7500. Any suggestions ? How much would this car be worth if repaired ? Should I just take the cash and scrap the car ? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  • himilerhimiler Posts: 1,209
    If you both like the car, get if fixed. You'd have a tough time replacing if for $7500. Then again, $7500 would make one heckuva downpayment on whatever else your eye might fancy. Once repaired, it's doubtful that the car will still be worth $7500.
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    I don't know if it's a '94 LS/GS or GSR. How many miles on the car? The way I see it, the car will most likely never be the same again, if it involves major suspension damage that it is over $7,000, plus they 're giving you a used suspension and not new. My '97 Civic was in a bad accident where it had mostly suspension damage, $5500 worth. The car has never been the same. It always pulls, the steering is messed up, etc. When they fixed it, it ran pretty good for the first 4-5mos. All the problems started appearing afterwards which I know were the result of the accident.
    Anyway, if it's a '94, I doubt the car is worth much more than $7500, and even if it is, after you get it fixed, it may be not running like it used, it may have some kind of vibration, pull, unstable on the highway or whatever, and you may not be able to get $7500 when you try and sell it, so I say get the money now and go buy another car. You can also negotiate the price. Call up banks and tell them you 're interested in getting a loan on a '94 Integra, and ask them how much you should pay for the car. They 'll give a price that might be higher than $7500. Also look at Kelleysbluebook.com (check on that URL). They show you the retail and trade in price of your car. Use the higher retail price and go back to your insurance company and demand more money if the price is higher. The $7500 is not what you have to accept. It's negotiable but you have to be persistent and provide documents from the web or whatever that the car is worth and you feel it should be totalled because the damage is too much, etc, plus they 're giving you used replacement parts, which you don't like that idea at all, etc. etc. You have a good case and you 'll probably get more than $7500.. or you may have high mileage, and the car is worth that much, don't know.. good luck.
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • woody24woody24 Posts: 59
    Thanks himiler-only1harry,
    Sorry, it's 94 LS ,auto, 2dr(3dr)
    We decided that fixing the car wasn't an option. The car has 54000 miles and "was" in great shape, so we figured the value at about $9,000 to $10,500.
    My next question, should I push for the car being totaled or take the car back (with the repair money), Strip it down, and sell the parts? There are alot of kids running around my area with the "fast and furious" wantabees. I priced some on-line used part sites and came up with around $4,000 worth of mechanical parts. That's not getting into the interior. Has anyone done this option? Scrapping a car? I have a buddy that is eager to help me tear it down. Is this more hassle than it's worth? I know that was a relevant question but has anyone done it?
    Thanks again everyone.
    John
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    I don't know about $4K in parts but it's probably very close to what you could get, $3K easily.. Take the $7500 and the car if that's what the insurance company is willing to do. The motor and tranny alone are worth about $2500 but the problem is that most kids don't want an automatic tranny. They want a 5-sp because Integras are much faster with a manual tranny. BUT, the people that will probably purchase the motor are the ones with Civics, mainly DX/LX models (not EX). A Civic hatchback with an LS motor can be a fast car (almost as fast as a GSR) because they 're very light cars. The LS motor is also the best one to turbo charge. So yes, if a buddy of yours can help you tear it apart, go for it. The A/C unit is also worth some bucks, radiator, etc. Suspension is not worth much because aftermarket springs and shocks are fairly inexpensive and way better. Brake master cylinder, alternator and stuff like that are worth a few bucks as well. I think you 're looking at around $3,000 including the motor of course.
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • littleteglittleteg Posts: 6
    Just taking a brief survey. What's the mileage of some of your Integra's out there and how are they running?
    I have a 92 Integra LS with over 175,000 miles on it. It still runs like new and I can still take late model non-vtec Integras. The only weird thing I've experienced is that I seem to be constantly replacing distributers. I'm on my fourth distributer now. Some lady I talked to with a 90 Integra has only replaced it once (she has 150K miles on hers). Anyone else with distributer problems? I also seem to go through batteries every 2 years. It doesn't matter if it is a Honda battery or aftermarket battery. The original Honda battery didn't even make it to 2 years. Although, Interstate batteries seem to last the longest.
    I still love the car and I think I'm going to keep it until it dies (which seems like it will never do) besides I don't like the new integras,I mean Rsx's.
    Also, how long have your clutches lasted? My original clutch made it to 100,500 miles, and I drive my car hard. Also handling is greatly improved if you don't replace your tires with the factory Michelins,which are awful if you are looking for true performance tires. I currently run Yokohama AVS Intermediates which are great. But I used to run Bridgestone Potenza RE71's which had better grip than the Yokohama's, but they stopped making them in 14" wheel size. And prices on both tires are great at about $75 per tire.
    Thanks everyone.
  • woody24woody24 Posts: 59
    Thanks Harry,
    Great advice, should be interesting.
  • eddiemaceddiemac Posts: 141
    I have a 1990 Integra GS 5speed hatch back. I purchased it in August of 1990 with 37 miles. I now have 126,000 and I am using the original clutch. I am on my third distributor. I got my second in May 1997, and the third this past January. As far as rust is concerned, I live in Washington, DC and the car has NEVER been in a garage, and I don't have a rust problem. I try to have the car detailed twice a year, and the paint looks good, better than some cars that are only 3 or four years old! If you wax regularly, you should have no problems.
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    What are the suggestions for the strut/sway bars I should get for my hatch? I am sold on getting a rear sway but find it hard to swallow paying that much for a Comptech one. How is the Progress rear sway? Also, is it necessary to get new tie rods since I switched to bigger and wider wheels? Last Q: Which will benefit the handling the most: a front upper strut bar or front sway bar? Really need to get this dilemma solved, thanks a lot for your help...the car is insanely fun to drive already : )
  • bemathewbemathew Posts: 33
    Guys, it has happend again...my 99 GSR sedan was stolen yesterday night and the cops recovered the car by afternoon and towed it to a towing place. When I saw the car from outside I thoght nothing has happend....but it was a pathetic scene to see her completly gutted, stripped inside to bare metal!!! Front and back leather seats, carpets, floor mats, door panels, CD, speakers, glove box, handrest assebly everything gone!!!! Even they have taken the child stroller that was in the trunk!!!What is left inside the car is only steering, upper part of the dashboard (with speedo, tacho etc) . They have also taken the tail lights and the whole trunk cover!!!!
    An insurance appraiser will appraise the cars damage shortly and following
    are my options

    1) Insurance will repair the car if it can be repaired in any shop of my choice

    2)If the car has to be totalled then they will total the car and will give me
    the money.

    What do you guys think? Guys please help me out...

    Do you think Insurance will total the car?
    Should I push the insurance to Total the car?
    If they are going to repair the car, I have the option of repairing it in any shop of my choice.
    After insurance appraise the damages, are they going to just give a check?
    If the insurance totals the car then is it a good idea to buy the car at salvage price for fixing it myself? Any gestimate on how much it would be?
    Any advice on talking to Insurance guys?

    I had only 20K miles on her and had babied the car from begining. Look after your babies..don't be irresponsible and stupid like me by not having an alarm on the car.

    I am in Phoenix. PLEASE let me know if you happend to see something "suspicious" !!!! Thanks guys
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    I'm so sorry about your car. Really, it just comes down to if you liked your car or not. Replacing the parts that were stolen on a car that only has 20k miles is a sound investment compared to buying another car as you were the only owner. I hope everything works out for you and you make a decision that you know you will be happy with.
  • himilerhimiler Posts: 1,209
    I remember reading something about a late-model GS-R that was jacked, and then stripped of seats and belts, among other bits.

    Because of the expense involved with replacing the seats, etc., the guy's insurance co totaled it.

    There's little chance you'd be able to restore the car yourself if you bought it for salvage, unless you've got a trust fund.

    The appraiser will know if it makes $ sense to repair as soon as he/she totals the parts/labor bill. Do not encourage them to total the car, as this may cast the shadow of suspicion on yourself.

    Talk to your insurance co/agent about how funds are disbursed. Always be honest.

    Sorry for your loss. Good luck.
  • tomcat12tomcat12 Posts: 1
    I presently have a nissan sentra xe 5 spd, which I do like, with decend power and handling. however, I am a born sports car driver, that is in school. I am in Canada, so mine the price difference, here is my problem, I pay 287.50 canada for the sentra, I got offered an integra SE loaded for 360.00 a month lease. Is the integra worth the extra money for a student with a tight budget......
    any comments would be recommened...
  • tspintspin Posts: 2
    I am about to sell my four door '87 Hatchback Acura Integral It has approx. 130,000 miles, is a standard, and has air conditioning. The engine and electronics are in terrific shape for a used car but the upholstery is a little faded and worn. What is a good price to ask for the car? Suggestions?
  • himilerhimiler Posts: 1,209
    Since you're on a tight budget, I'd suggest that you stick with the Sentra. Your insurance rates might go thru the roof with the Integra.
  • As you know Acura has decided to drop the Integra name for RSX.

    This has created a odd situation for Integra buyers who's deciding to buy new or used:

    Kelly Blue Book 'Trade-in' value for 2000 Integra LS 5-sp with 12k miles on it in excellent condition for $17,495

    http://www.kbb.com/

    Edmunds 'True Market Value' (going rate at dealers) for new 2001 Integra LS 5-sp dealers are selling for $16,650.

    http://www.edmunds.com/new/

    Duh?
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    Edmund's TMV is much lower than sticker because from May to the end of July Acura has had a $2,000 factory-dealer incentive on ALL Integras.
    This $2K does not have to be passed along to the customers/buyers by the dealer. It's the dealer's money and they decide what to do with it. It's not a rebate. Of course in most cases the dealer discounts the car heavily by $2,000 plus more if you take into account that their "invoice" is another $1900 less.. Kelley blue book cannot account or verify that all dealers share the incentive with their customers, or how much, so they list the regular KBB price as if you paid full price for the car. This also goes for Integras or all other cars without any incentives. For example I paid $19.8K for my '99 GSR although the sticker was $22,650. About 6mos later and with about 7k mi. on the odo, I visited KBB's web site for kicks and they said my car was worth about $21,000 retail and $19,500 trade-in value in excellent condition. So yes, it doesn't make much sense since I only paid $300-400 more than trade-in but that's the way it goes and that's the book most dealers go by. If you get a great deal on a car or close to dealer invoice, etc. and decide to sell it within a year you can really make out. Kelley has no idea how much you paid for the car and if you paid sticker or invoice for it..
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Anyone know anything about this rear sway? How does it compare to the Comptech kit (which includes the tie bar also)? Is a tie bar really necessary? What about a front strut bar?
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    I assume you 're asking about your Civic.. You don't really need the rear tie bar. The sway bar is good enough. Go to an Acura dealer. Mine sells the Comptech 22mm sway bar for $230 (discounted like 15%). My Neuspeed rear tie bar didn't really make much difference but they say it helps a little maintaining proper camber settings or wheel alignment settings.. The rear sway bar (or bigger one) makes a HUGE difference! Front upper strut bar makes a small difference, small but noticeable. Every little thing helps. Don't know anything about the GC sway.
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Sounds good...the GC rear sway is a new product, I think, because it is in the "What's New" section of their website. Might have to wait a while to see how the general public likes that one before gicing in to the Comptech one. I have heard that a tie bars are useful on cars with larger than stock wheels and tires and might be worthwhile. Ground Control rear sway: http://www.ground-control.com/gcwhnew.htm
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