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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)
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Comments
So that radiator worked out for about a month, and THAT one cracked. So we brought it back and he fixed it free of charge. But that wasnt the end, in the process, SOMEHOW, he damaged the lower engine mount, and refuses to accept responsibility for it. We are still fighting that one. Other than those problems the car has been a jewel. Definately a good car to invest in for a teenager. Moral of the story, STAY AWAY from Joe Boudreaux car shops that claim to be "Import Specialists" even though it costs more, I will bring my cars straight to the Dealerships from now on. Hope this helps some people avoid the headaches I had over nothing.
As for the A/C, it seems to be fine, but we have not yet had any real heat, so its real test won't occur for a couple of months yet.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I ran a '91 GSR for 415k miles, had the radiator rodded out once. Eventually gave up on getting R-12 and had the a/c switched over to R-134.That's it.
Now have a '98 GSR bought at 58K miles, now at 150K. So far, no cooling problems and the a/c is strong. Its been to FL and TX in hot weather, went cross-country last September. No problems, including no cooling or a/c problems.
Its best to cool the car down by setting airflow to recirc, fan to 4, and then running the a/c. Also, the Integra's a/c system is a remix system, so if the mix valve doesn't turn off the heat you'll never get cool air. You might check that. I did have that happen once with my '91.
And theft of your engine parts while you had it in for service? This shop sounds like it truly sucks. You didn't ask for reimbursement or sue?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
My budget exceeds 16 grand so anything below is fine. Im looking for a 2 door, 4 cylinder, v-tec engine Acura/Honda, which is reliable and decent looking. Can anyone help me out?
I found a 91 Tegra w/165kms, 5spd, all power, sunroof, leather. The interior and exterior are in great shape. I drove the car yesterday and it was pretty good.
What things should I look out for? The rad was replaced and it looks like the timing belt was done too. The dealer is removing the usual Honda/Acura rust from above the rear wheel wells and painting the 2 rear panels so they match with the rest of the car. The AC is good, everything seems to work fine. He's fixing the passenger power window - the motor runs and pulls up the window, but the panel might be on too tightly and the window goes up VERY slowly. He said by Friday (tomorow) the car will be ready. I'll go see it Sunday or next Monday.
What should I look out for? I like the car and the price. And especially the mileage (103K miles).
The head gasket was not replaced. I heard older Integras and Civics LOVE head gaskets? Should I be worried it wasn't done?
Thanks for your help!
Here's the car:
http://www.trader.ca/SendToFriend/Results.asp?id=558393&adid=- 2823226
Dinu
I assume you have checked the CV joints, and there are no problems - also boots are fresh and intact?
Be sure the timing belt was done, or better yet, have them do it now.
Valve cover gaskets and distributor o-rings tend to leak - not such a big deal though.
Make sure all the primary ignition parts that would fall under routine maintenance are fresh - friends' integras have tended to go through those fast.
carscout: you should be able to get a late 90s or even 2000 integra GSR for that money - that will have the VTEC engine.
Or you could an almost brand new Civic EX (which has VTEC) for that money - lower power, different car. Do you want a Honda or an Acura? Civic is a coupe with a trunk, integra is/was a fastback hatch.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanx!
Dinu
PS: I remember asking this same question last May when I was toying with the idea of an MX-3 or Integra. Looks like it's gonna be an Integra.
Get it in a parking lot and crank the wheel all the way over, drive forward slowly, listen to them. Do the same thing with wheel cranked the other way. If you don't hear anything, should be fine since this is only a "tide over" car 'til next year for you, right?
Cap, rotor, wires, plugs are all crucial for integras - they use 'em hard. Good that these are new.
PS Don't know if everyone does this, but I always park the car, then rev it a little and turn the wheels all the way left and right - good way to get a rough idea of the condition of the rack and the steering pump. (you want to hear nothing beyond a slight wheeze from the pump, and have movement be smooth and fluid)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
A couple of things you didn't mention that I had to replace/repair on a previously owned and sold Integra (I've had two '91s in my family) is the master cylinder and rack + pinion. Brake pedal sank almost to the floor while waiting at a stoplight with the a/c on. There's a valve in the cylinder that commonly starts leaking that causes this. Rack + pinion was also leaking fluid. Also had to replace the whole exhaust including cat--muffler and cat were rusted out after 10 years.
Nippononly's advice to test CV joints is good--don't want to hear any 'clicking' noise. Price for replacement from dealer is not surprisingly high--I've had one side replaced for $200, mostly labor.
Okay, after all this I still think it's a great car and engine still runs strong even though it burns a little oil. Still pulls all the way to redline. Only complaint is heavy understeer as 64% of weight is on front wheels. Handling and road feel are greatly improved with aftermarket rims--stock 14" wheels are a joke. Stock speakers are also cheap and rears are probably in bad shape from being in sun all the time. Replace all of them or move fronts to rear and get new fronts.
My wife and I only need two cars and have two much newer ones but still keep our old Integra as a third car--just can't bring ourselves to part with it for amount of money it currently goes for.:) Good luck.
exterior: no signs of damage, immaculate, no rust near sunroof, shocks passed bounce test, exhaust seems new (still looks good at least).
interior: immaculate, nothing broken, scratched etc....interior conditioned wheel, no scrathes, discolorations etc..
goodies: sunroof in working condition, quickly opens and closes after 4 tries to trip it up., 10 cd changer in back working, cell phone in center console working (!!!), power windows quickly open and close, and power locks working
pedals felt great, brake pedal felt good (no squish, nice and firm)...
engine: stuttered a sec, but no more than when starting up a 2000 camry after not driving it for a few.
I just wanted to know if this sounded like a good buy...he originally wanted 6K but thanks to edmunds worked him down to 5k...carfax clean by the way...
thanks,
btw: damn is insurance high for this car or what(so far got one quote for 2400 w/o collision)
So do I drop a grand and drive it another 5 years/75k, or am I crazy to even contemplate this when I should just buy a new car?
goblue: expect a radiator and a fuel pump and a couple of hundred $$ of incidentals in the next 75K...if that cost plus what you are putting up now is OK with you, and you still like how it drives, go for it! I would.
PS I get 34 mpg in mine!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Will keep you posted if I find anything. That 91 was leaking coolant and had oil around the head gasket, so I skipped it. It was sold over the weekend BTW.
Dinu
I recently purchased a 94 Integra LS, 5spd, one owner, well taken care of (112K).
Anyway, the previous owner had replaced the cellunoid ( not sure if I spelled it right) switch on the clutch.
Here are the problems I am experiencing, I am hoping someone might be able to diagnose what is going on.
1. Car will sometimes not go into gear with clutch petal to the floor, now if you take your foot totally off the clutch put it in neutral and depress the clutch again it will go into gear, it does this behavior while moving (ie trying to downshift or upshift) and sometimes when trying to get into first from being stopped, it's more so with the moving.
2. Sometimes the clutch petal will not come all the way back up right away, it will stay have depressed and you can pull it back up with your foot.
3.There is no slippage or popping out of gear.
Does the clutch need to be replaced or could it be something more simple like the clutch was not properly adjusted when the switch was replaced? or does the clutch maybe need to be bled?
Help! I am really thinking it may not be the clutch as much as it might be an adjustment but I need all the advice I can get ASAP, this thing locked up (couldn't get into any gear until I did the "trick" w/petal today at an intersection)so it's a little concerning.
Thanks!
If it is cable, it may well be out of adjustment, which would cause it to be hard to get into gears as you describe, and might also account for the pedal not returning to the top, depending on how bad it is.
If it was hydraulic by '94, then the pedal has a spring to pull it back to top position, which maybe came off or was removed or something...also if it is hydraulic, you have a worn clutch, assuming these shifting problems you describe do not happen only when it is stone cold. Hydraulic clutches do not have adjustments.
One caveat: if these shifting problems only happen in one gear (not counting first gear) you may instead have worn synchros in that gear, which is occasionally a problem in integras, especially if they have been raced or driven hard. If that is the case, it could get expensive, doing the transmission work.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
How well do the auto trannies hold up. I recently posted about a 96 with high mileage (144k) and the replies (thanks ) told me it was a great buy..unfortunately my family disagrees with the opinion that the car is used up (and the trannies are especially used up)...I want to convince them that they're wrong but I since I don't have much experience of knowledge of theses cars I can't do it confidently...can anyone share stories, beliefs, experiences, info, etc to help me plead my case (they wont give me the extra grand I need to get it otherwise)
thanks,
dsantiago
P.S. this car discussion segment of the edmunds website it the best!!! I've learned more here than anywhere else...thank you edmunds and thank you fellow board members, your advice in the past has always been appreciated.
Dinu
Look at the Legend - an equal to the integra for longevity, if not the actual champ. But even though more automatics were sold in that model back then, the ones that are still around today are mostly the manuals, at least among the pre-1990s.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Don't be afraid of any high-mileage Integra. Just be sure to get the tranny checked at a qualified shop before you buy.
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp&t- - - ype=bykeyword&searchtype=both&part=fluidyne&x=15&- - - y=8
Acura: 1994-99 Integra, 38 mm tubes, aluminum, radiator
For the same money, it's a better deal.
I had to replace both my radiator and A/C condensor ($1200 w/labor!)on my '98 GS-R, and made the mistake of going with a factory radiator. My philosphy is to replace whatever breaks with better aftermarket pieces. That's what I did when my factory exhaust manifold cracked - I put in a DC Sports 4-2-1 header. Wheee!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks for the response. I had the master cylinder replaced last week. Symptoms are gone.
I just bought a 1995 RS with 65000 miles on there for 6200. The only catch was that the car had a salvaged title, and it is now a clean rebuilt title. I was just wondering if anyone on here has carfax?
Also, were there any known major problems with that year? The car drives fine...
Thanks for any advices...
~Jerry
Good luck, and please keep us posted on your Acura Integra ownership experience. ;-)
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
It's my first time posting to the forum, but found it very helpful in my quest to find a new car. I had a 1999 Accord EX coming off of lease and refused to pay (overpay!) what they wanted for the car. I considered an RSX (is it me, or is the rear visibility terrible???) and the Celica (cute but I love Hondas).
One afternoon, I saw him: my 1995 Integra RS, silver, 34K miles!, sexy! The next day, I was driving home my new obsession. So far, I have put about 500 miles on the car and other than forcing the dealer to replace the timing belt (which they couldn't prove had ever been done), I've had no problems.
All in all, a great little car, great on gas and very zippy! Now, I want a good keyless/security system on my 'baby'. Any suggestions? I don't want to pay a fortune, but I would absolutely KILL if anyone took him...also, any idea on a good place to get a car cover for him?
-->one hot chic, loving her newly acquired 'Teg!!!
The car is starting to smell like wet moldy clothes, so for now I am leaving the car inside the garage for the next 5 days with the windows open to dry out.
Does anyone know how I can fix the above problem, and or where is the problem?
Post #88 sounds like a similar problem, but no one responded to his post.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I just bought the integra gs 98. I was looking though this newsgroup and it seems like one thing I need to do is get the timing belt replaced. The car has 63K on it. Does the timing belt need to be replaced right away? Anything else I should be worried about? I showed it to one of my friend mechanic and he said the car is in good condition but not sure if he checked the timing belt.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
You will feel better knowing that it is done and you'll have a costly repair if the belt breaks -- yikes!!!
If you know a really good shop with Honda trained technicians you might think about taking it there to save some money, otherwise have a dealership do it. Timing belts and CV joints are the weak knees of front drive cars. The newer Acura RSXs have gone back to the old timing chain.
And BTW, that thing doesn't have much oil to start with, so if you routinely let it get three quarts low and never check it between changes, it could be early curtains for that car...
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
It used to burn about a quart, but I switched Spark plugs brands (bosch to Denso) and it is almost burning no oil at all now. I do not know if this is actually related but it is what actually happened.
What you describe seems way too high to me. Regards.
Maybe the key is having the valves adjusted regularly, I'd have that done every 30,000 miles or so.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
This Integra is sweet, 44k miles and the car fax is clean.. Question is should I get the timing belt changed?? Acura wants $720 plus tax. Can a Honda dealer replace it??