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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)



  • Hi; I've got a 95 LS with 134K; it does not burn that much oil, less than one quart each 3,500 miles.
    It used to burn about a quart, but I switched Spark plugs brands (bosch to Denso) and it is almost burning no oil at all now. I do not know if this is actually related but it is what actually happened.
    What you describe seems way too high to me. Regards.
  • bob374 or gearhead10 how much did you pay for the master cylinder job? It seems that my 95 LS (134K) has the same problem..thanks
  • jimc93sijimc93si Posts: 34
    My 2000 GSR hasn't used any oil in 2,000 miles. My 93Si would use about 1 cup of oil in 6,000 miles, where I'd usually have it changed, 10w30. The Si has 189,000 miles on it and still gets 40 mpg.
     Maybe the key is having the valves adjusted regularly, I'd have that done every 30,000 miles or so.
  • Did they use timing belt or chain in a 1995 Integra??
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • 1997 GSR 5-spd, 83000 miles. Changed Timing and Pump at about 60K, and just had the Radiator replaced this summer. Now I've got a new problem. In the last couple of days, and no matter what gear I'm in, I'm getting a rattling from the engine compartment at about 3000 RPM. Anyone ever experienced this? What's gonna break?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    haven't experienced it. Mine is a lot older than yours though!

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • atuzaiatuzai Posts: 47
    I am looking for buying a 96 Integra Lx with 101400 miles on it. Test drive it, at begining when engine is not warm or hot, I can feel some gears shift jerks, especially from 1st to 2nd ( 0--25 mile/h), the 2nd to 3rd a little bit smoother. But when drive for couple minutes and engine getting warm or hot, transmission seems much more smoother. Still can feel the jerk but not as strong as begining. I am wondering is this normal for Integra Auto trans? Never drive car like Integra before, so need your guys experience and suggestion. Thanks!
  • I just changed the battery on my GSR and I must have entered the security code on the radio wrong. Am I stuck with going back to the dealer, or is there some way I can override this thing?
  • Just went through the process when I bought a 1999 Integra LS. The battery was dead so when we jumped it, the radio was flashing a message to input the code. Called an Acura service rep and he gave 3 places to get the code. 1. A card furnished with the owners manual. 2. on a sticker inside the glove box, and 3. Remove the radio and the code may be on the back. I was lucky and found a card in the owners manual.. Good luck.

    This Integra is sweet, 44k miles and the car fax is clean.. Question is should I get the timing belt changed?? Acura wants $720 plus tax. Can a Honda dealer replace it??
  • I can't find my mfr's warranty for my 1990 Integra. If anyone still has a copy of the warranty, I'd be most grateful if you could look up whether there's a lifetime warranty for seatbelts. My passive restraint on the driver's side stopped working.

    Many thanks.

  • Didn't know about the sticker in the glovebox...moot point anyway. I called the dealer because the code card that I have didn't work...they changed the radio for me back in 1998! And the new card was in my service records...which got stolen a few months ago (car broken into, that's all they took). But they had a new code for me.

    I got the timing belt done at around 60K miles, I suppose a Honda dealer could do it, but I don't like my local Honda dealer so I still go back to Acura.

    Couldn't tell you about the warranty, but if it's supposed to be lifetime, you should be able to call a dealer and confirm this.
  • Hi people. I've not been to this board before and don't own an Integra, but I am hoping you will be able to help me help a friend who is seeking my advice.

    The car at issue is a 1995 Integra RS with 110,000 miles. My friend is a salesman and spends a lot of time in the car, though it is all local driving.

    Recently the ABS warning light has been on. He took it in for service and was told that the "modulator" and "accumulator" needed to be replaced, a $1600 investment. They were pretty vague about the safety if the repairs weren't made, but didn't say outright it was unsafe. It's a lot of money for a car that probably isn't worth 3 times that!

    I guess the question is whether he just ignores it, unloads the car now, without repairs, or fixes it and hopes to get another couple of years out of the vehicle. Any advice?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    it does not affect the regular operation of the braking system. So the question is, how much does your friend care about ABS? I kinda doubt I would fix it, I would just keep the car and drive it. But make sure that if the car is sold, the buyer is aware the ABS is non-functional (ie don't disconnect the light!). :-)

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • nerdnerd Posts: 203
    After two years of uncertainty, my wife has decided to keep her '97 Integra GS coupe with 31K miles. It's her "weekend" car now since she drives her 325Ci the rest of the time. She wanted to keep the Integra in the family, but none of our kids need a car (son just bought a Corvette).

    So, I am back to spending a modest amount to improve its performance, particularly handling. Previous advice from himiler and only1harry was to install a Comptech rear brace and larger sway bar. Is that still the advice? How much handling improvement will I see? I did replace the orginal Michelins with Dunlop SP 5000, and the handling improved a lot. Still, I can notice the understeer.

    How much will a new exhaust header and exhaust system help the engine? I see that Comptech sells both, but I am wondering if anyone has other recommendations.
  • I would put on an AEM CAI and the stiffer rear sway bar. Mine is stock except for Kumho tires and the AEM CAI and it is plenty fast for me.
     Upgrading the exhaust header is pretty worthless except at WOT, but it looks good and you obviously have the money. You could go for a full catback exhaust, also.
  • Hey all

    I am looking to buy a 90 Acura Integra 4 dr sedan. It has 124K miles on it,auto, p/w,p/l,no leaks.
    I was wondering if you knew of any potential problems that this particular model might have or pose in the future?
    The owner says that the car is a-ok with no problems.

    appreciate any input...
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    look for flaking in the paint clear coat and check the area under the trunk where the spare tire sits for standing water or signs there has been water running in in the past. Check the taillights to make sure there is not water sitting inside.

    Also, the timing belt, with plugs and valve adjustment was just due at 120K - was any of it done? If not, has it been done in the last 30K?

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • First off, thanks to the host for reposting my message in the right forum - I get lost in this cyber maze!

    And thanks also to nippononly for the advice. The timing belt was replaced at 90Kmiles. Do you (or anyone else?) still think thats ok or does the car need a 120K service? What else apart from the timing belt/plugs/valve adjstment are due at this stage?

    again, thank for the input.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    is fine, then. Besides those other items, you would normally flush the coolant every 30K and replace the air filter, but both are cheap so no worries. Oh yeah, and replace distributor cap and rotor along with the plugs if you do them. If it is running well, though, you can put the tune-up parts off until the next smog check or whatever.

    The paint and rear leak issues are much more important than that, and if it is sound in both areas, you have a great deal on your hands!

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

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